The BUTTZOOKA - single fold dual Anarchy tapped horn Experiment - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 44 Old 07-24-2011, 10:32 AM - Thread Starter
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I've been thinking about the subs in my home theater for a long time as I know I need/want more. I was also interested in seeing what I could do to move them around my room a bit instead of everything behind my screen wall.

I looked at this space behind my second row of seating and ahead of the rear bar seating and thought about what I could stick there? LilMike's Anarchy design was pretty interesting but the opening fired the wrong way for what I wanted.



Then one day a new member 1800RPM posted the hornresp data for a dual anarchy design he was playing with and I liked the look of the response curve.

https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...2&d=1297885725

https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...3&d=1297885725

https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post20015653

So I decided to build it with only a single fold in a long bazooka shape to stick behind the seating and I named the project Buttzooka.

Instead of working up the design in the digital world, I took an old school analog approach.

I ripped some 7.25 wide boards and some spacers for 4 key areas. for the record the horn lengths are L1-2 20cm, L2-3 323 cm, and L3-4 70 cm.

Then I just laid them on my workbench and figured out how wide everything was going to need to be.



For L2-3 I used a piece of cord and a chinese take out lid to figure out how long various parts needed to be.





Once everything was measured, marked and cut, I assembled the beast.









The beast used a sheet of 3/4 MDF so it is heavy.



And I measured the frequency response with the Omnimic system.





Right now the last side is just screwed on with weather stripping for a seal. When I finish this thing I will round the edges, paint it black and add jacks. If I keep it I'll need an amp and probably Outlaw Audio's wireless sub-woofer bridge.

As for my front wall I have 8 MFW-15s in boxes for some kind of a build to replace my Titanic 15.
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post #2 of 44 Old 07-24-2011, 10:40 AM
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Very nice! Hopefully it'll keep you satisfied until the MFW's find homes...

Dare I ask...eight F20s? Give MK a run for his money...

But seriously, what are youplanning for those 8 drivers?

JSS
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post #3 of 44 Old 07-24-2011, 10:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Final Dimensions

8 3/4 x 11 5/8 x 91 1/2.
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post #4 of 44 Old 07-24-2011, 10:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxmercy View Post

But seriously, what are you planning for those 8 drivers?

One solution is four 5 cu ft cabinets with dual speakers on the front face. 18x18x36. Mark Seaton's design.
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post #5 of 44 Old 07-24-2011, 11:34 AM
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Analog folding methods...I like.

Looks like a great result too.
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post #6 of 44 Old 07-24-2011, 12:39 PM
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Where do we find these drivers ?

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post #7 of 44 Old 07-24-2011, 01:09 PM - Thread Starter
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post #8 of 44 Old 07-24-2011, 02:27 PM
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These drivers look sweet !!! I'll order the drivers tomorrow and the boys at Lowes can rip away this week....

I'll stick with the 3/4" too, to keep it simple

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post #9 of 44 Old 07-24-2011, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgveteran View Post
These drivers look sweet !!! I'll order the drivers tomorrow and the boys at Lowes can rip away this week....

I'll stick with the 3/4" too, to keep it simple
How are you going to treat the MDF/Plywood to survive the elements? Are you going to aim it up or down?
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post #10 of 44 Old 07-24-2011, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post
analog folding methods...i like.

Looks like a great result too.
+1
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post #11 of 44 Old 07-24-2011, 07:55 PM
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I'll probably just paint it with exterior latex. First position will be opening facing ceiling, if it sounds good, then it will stay. A few coat of primer then some multiple coats of exterior, inside and out i'm afraid

Wifey is buying drivers and the rest is me, thanx Mrs KG

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post #12 of 44 Old 07-24-2011, 08:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Nick, when are you going to start your theater?
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post #13 of 44 Old 07-26-2011, 04:42 AM
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Well, wifey stepped up to the plate and i ordered the drivers ! Now on the inside board that creates the horn, what lenth is it ? The rest falls into place measurement wise....

Time to breakout the trio from dremel and cut some circles....

I was listening to some SRV last nite and i'm really excited about this project, that recording could have used some bottom end....soon enough

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post #14 of 44 Old 07-26-2011, 06:23 AM - Thread Starter
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I'll get you that measurement today. If you haven't already thought about it mounting the drivers is nearly impossible without either installing them before that one side board goes on or installing them on a loose middle board before slipping in.
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post #15 of 44 Old 07-26-2011, 02:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgveteran View Post

Now on the inside board that creates the horn, what length is it ?

I stuck a tape in from the end and was able to catch the far end.

85 13/16 +/-

I remember measuring the length of the turn (around the takeout lid) then figuring out what the difference should be before and after the turn. Just measure the change in width along the same distance down near where the speakers go and you have the analog blocking. The width at the mid point of the turn should be mid point of those two numbers.
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post #16 of 44 Old 07-26-2011, 02:57 PM
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Very cool Jeff - hmm, something like that would fit nicely inside my false front side columns - although it might be hard to keep everything from shaking if I put them there - except I'd need to taper the bottom and rework the folds to fit it.

How do those drivers compare with the Tang Bands?
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post #17 of 44 Old 07-26-2011, 05:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes I did think about the fact that these could go in columns.

I don't have any experience with the Tangs
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post #18 of 44 Old 07-27-2011, 04:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I stuck a tape in from the end and was able to catch the far end.

85 13/16 +/-

I remember measuring the length of the turn (around the takeout lid) then figuring out what the difference should be before and after the turn. Just measure the change in width along the same distance down near where the speakers go and you have the analog blocking. The width at the mid point of the turn should be mid point of those two numbers.

Thanx for the lenth measurement, but......

Oh boy......do you have a drawing ? Lol, i feel like i have no brain at times..

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post #19 of 44 Old 07-27-2011, 12:04 PM - Thread Starter
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I opened it up. I'm going to experiment with blocking those corners and using a little linacoustic in a couple of areas before I close it again. 85 13/16 is confirmed for the length of that middle piece.



Position the exit side at 4 7/8 wide.
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post #20 of 44 Old 07-28-2011, 05:18 PM
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Perfect, the 5" side is the throat....Drivers are on their way, i gotta get off my butt and get over the lowes.....

How did you figure on where to mount the two drivers, does it matter ?

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post #21 of 44 Old 07-28-2011, 05:48 PM - Thread Starter
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The mid point between them is L3-4 from the throat. I just put them 1/2 inch apart which was totally arbitrary.
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post #22 of 44 Old 07-28-2011, 06:23 PM
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Ok, so the drivers are 1/2" apart, whats the measurement from the one driver to the rounded inside board.

There are 2 small blocks, one just behind the driver and one at the end of the enclosure, what size are they and where are the positioned in inches...

Sorry about all the questions, but i would really like to duplicate your build.

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post #23 of 44 Old 07-28-2011, 06:41 PM
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See.......now you horn guys are on to something with a tall/narrow horn that CAN be integrated into the common theater column. Given 14.5" between wallstuds said design type can easily be directly built into the wall with a thoughtfull, removable lower access panel for driver access. Now if Mike and the boys wanna work on something with a 10-12" driver like this there might be an HT staple design somewhere's. Four of these would literally dissappear into a room without huge hulking boxes soaking up valuable floorspace.............just a thought.
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post #24 of 44 Old 07-28-2011, 07:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgveteran View Post

Sorry about all the questions, but i would really like to duplicate your build.

Sorry I thought you had completed LilMike's Tapped horn 101.
https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1212465
Here is his diagram AND all MY numbers in cm (not inches)


The top number is sq area of the horn at that position. All sides are 18.4 tall (7.25 inches). The widths are shown.
L1-2 20cm, L2-3 323 cm, and L3-4 70 cm. As you can see in my design S1 does not line up with S4 and you need to add another cosmetic plug at the end.
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post #25 of 44 Old 07-29-2011, 09:21 AM - Thread Starter
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A couple more shots of the construction details.



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post #26 of 44 Old 07-29-2011, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

A couple more shots of the construction details.




Whats the lenth of that sealed chamber, from bottom edge to top edge just below the one Anarchy ? I think that will give me all i need....i think

Good idea to use weather stripping and not glue, i think I'll add T-nuts to the mix..

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post #27 of 44 Old 07-29-2011, 09:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgveteran View Post

Whats the length of that sealed chamber, from bottom edge to top edge just below the one Anarchy ? I think that will give me all i need....i think

(L3-4) - (L1-2) is the scientific answer not allowing for the thicknesses of the blocks.

I put a tape on it and the inside dimension block to block is 18 3/16.
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post #28 of 44 Old 07-29-2011, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

(L3-4) - (L1-2) is the scientific answer not allowing for the thicknesses of the blocks.

I put a tape on it and the inside dimension block to block is 18 3/16.

You rock ! I'm ready for Lowes tomorrow. Havent really heard Geddy Lee's, or Cris Squires bass on the back deck yet, but soon enough....

.....sorry, Tony Levin too

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post #29 of 44 Old 07-30-2011, 04:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Please post some pictures of your efforts.
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post #30 of 44 Old 07-30-2011, 04:45 AM
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Geez Big...is there nothing you cant do?

Cool build! So how do you figure size and shape of the box in conjunction with the driver you use? We just pulled my brother in laws old system out of his car.

He had a couple of MTX 10's and the VC is completely locked up on one of them. I helped him put together a new system, so he gave me all his old stuff. (1 driver that works, a sealed 2 driver box, and a small amp that the remote shut off doesnt work and will drain your battery...lol)

So now I've got this one 10" driver I've been thinking about building a box for. I think BFM has an autotuba design that works with 10" drivers, but I think it would be fun to do some research and design my own box....just not really sure where to start.

Any suggestions?

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