Sealed dual LMS 18" 5400 build - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 176 Old 10-16-2011, 08:19 PM
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Since you are obviously more "in the know" than I, could you direct me to the links of the hundreds of subwoofers that are constructed out of maple...


My first DIY project. A dual, dual opposed setup

www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1345494
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post #62 of 176 Old 10-16-2011, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

You can't mate two pieces of maple with PL.. Pl needs a cushion...

Pl is a construction adhesive ... rough construction like plywood boxes..

Which is exactly what we're building here? I'm using titebond building some benches... each has their place. PL does wonders at filling gaps and making plywood boxes super strong.
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post #63 of 176 Old 10-16-2011, 09:42 PM
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I used PL on the mdf boxes for my LMS 5400's they are not falling apart yet. It sanded down fine at the seams. I used vinyl covering and the seams are not visible. Could have used veneer as well, no problem.
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post #64 of 176 Old 10-16-2011, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

Which is exactly what we're building here? I'm using titebond building some benches... each has their place. PL does wonders at filling gaps and making plywood boxes super strong.

Now you're agreeing with me...I already stated all that...

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post #65 of 176 Old 10-16-2011, 10:38 PM
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The issue with PL is not strength, but that it's hard to get a good finish on joints because it's flexible and doesn't sand well.

Noah
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post #66 of 176 Old 10-16-2011, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

The issue with PL is not strength, but that it's hard to get a good finish on joints because it's flexible and doesn't sand well.


PL needs good surface to stick too... try to edge join mdf or plywood with it or any wood for that matter... it won't hold...

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post #67 of 176 Old 10-17-2011, 07:09 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm using PL400 for the cross bracing and to seal the inside, not PL Premium.

PL400 is very thick and does not expand or shrink. Cleanup is fairly easy, and it can be sanded after it dries since it's and hard as concrete.
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post #68 of 176 Old 10-18-2011, 06:16 PM - Thread Starter
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post #69 of 176 Old 10-18-2011, 06:29 PM
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Woofer porn right there...

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post #70 of 176 Old 10-19-2011, 03:54 PM - Thread Starter
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post #71 of 176 Old 10-19-2011, 05:29 PM
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Nicely build boxes..Lemme ask you... your're not going to install the subs flush with the face of the box?

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post #72 of 176 Old 10-20-2011, 07:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

Nicely build boxes..Lemme ask you... your're not going to install the subs flush with the face of the box?

Besides the finishing work that box is complete. I will not be countersinking the drivers. Yes that does look better, but I'm more about function than form.
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post #73 of 176 Old 10-21-2011, 02:16 AM
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I buy a type ii water proof PVA glue in 55 gallon drums. This is similar to Titebond II. I did extensive tests on PL vs PVA glue before I built my DTS10.

On a perfectly made joint with perfect even clamping both glues exhibited similar performance. The wood failed before the glue joint.

If you are looking for a clean thin glue line PVA is the way to go. If your joint is not perfect I would go with PL. If you go with PVA I would seal the inside of the joint.

I would probably not use PVA alone on a poorly cut plywood joint. If you can see saw marks or any burn marks it is poorly cut.


I built my mains and center out of MDF. I used PVA. Someone mentioned the glue wicking as bad earlier I believe. That is exactly what you want with mdf. The glue penetrates the end grain and becomes part of the substrate. MDF is glue and dust. Adding glue is more of the same.

T6

Clearwave 4TSE and 4CC build thread
https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post19489740
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post #74 of 176 Old 10-21-2011, 06:57 AM - Thread Starter
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post #75 of 176 Old 10-21-2011, 09:08 AM - Thread Starter
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QC issues continue with TC Sounds...

One of the baskets doesn't line up perfectly with the magnets for the bolts...I may have to drill out a couple of the holes on the basket to make them a little larger...
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post #76 of 176 Old 10-21-2011, 09:29 AM
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Before you drill make sure to try indexing the basket at all positions. One of my subs had the same problem and one position allowed all the bolts to start by hand.
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post #77 of 176 Old 10-21-2011, 10:35 AM
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+1

It can be difficult to get the bolts started on a couple of the holes. Sometimes a different orientation will line up. Also I would source bolts that are an extra 1/4" longer. The ones TC provides are a little short IMO.
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post #78 of 176 Old 10-21-2011, 10:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDKing2 View Post

Before you drill make sure to try indexing the basket at all positions. One of my subs had the same problem and one position allowed all the bolts to start by hand.

Interesting, I'll give it a try.
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post #79 of 176 Old 10-21-2011, 11:55 AM
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Was the hardware and screw packet secured in the shipping box? Mine were just flopping around in the carton. I had heard others got ding on the cone from this. I had sent an email about it and Thilo emailed me saying the packets would be secured in future shipments. One of my packages containing the basket was missing the upper packing foam as well. Fortunately in my case nothing was damaged. The motor assembly boxes were a mess. The UPS guy did not look happy unloading them
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post #80 of 176 Old 10-21-2011, 01:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDKing2 View Post

Was the hardware and screw packet secured in the shipping box? Mine were just flopping around in the carton. I had heard others got ding on the cone from this. I had sent an email about it and Thilo emailed me saying the packets would be secured in future shipments. One of my packages containing the basket was missing the upper packing foam as well. Fortunately in my case nothing was damaged. The motor assembly boxes were a mess. The UPS guy did not look happy unloading them

On my last sub project with the VMP's, the washers weren't secured! There were dents on the cones.

These two did have the bolts and allen wrench taped down.
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post #81 of 176 Old 10-21-2011, 01:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDKing2 View Post

Before you drill make sure to try indexing the basket at all positions. One of my subs had the same problem and one position allowed all the bolts to start by hand.

BTW, this worked. Thanks!
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post #82 of 176 Old 10-21-2011, 08:02 PM - Thread Starter
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post #83 of 176 Old 10-21-2011, 08:40 PM
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Wow, props man. That came out looking pretty nice.

What'd you use to apply the paint?
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post #84 of 176 Old 10-21-2011, 09:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow, props man. That came out looking pretty nice.

What'd you use to apply the paint?

A small roller
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post #85 of 176 Old 10-21-2011, 11:12 PM
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Glad the assembly went ok and nice to hear they took my suggestion of adding a piece of tape to the hardware. So how is it compared to the PR box? I assume you will be using both but I would like to hear your remarks on one versus the other.
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post #86 of 176 Old 10-22-2011, 05:52 AM
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Well, now you clearly need a bigger TV.

 

My DIY Subs ... https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1233892

Quote:

J Dunlavy:.. if you stop to think about it, no loudspeaker can sound more accurate than it measures.

 

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post #87 of 176 Old 10-22-2011, 07:10 AM - Thread Starter
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My initial thoughts:

- Wow this thing is heavy! I weighed the box before putting in the drivers and it was just over 100lb’s

- Wow these drivers in a sealed box are power hungry

- WOW the FP14000 is powerful!!!

- Wow the 5400 + VMP design is much more efficient

- Wow this thing sounds good

At first it sounded good, but not great. The punch and weight of the bass was missing, and it didn’t play well with the VMP sub AT ALL. Both sounded much better playing by themselves. I inverted the polarity on the MiniDSP for the sealed sub and bingo…DANG it sounds good!

I can see how a Marathon MA-5050 would come in a little short for powering one of these. The FP14000 seems endless for power. It just keep going and going, and my ears say stop when trying to find its limits. I haven’t seen the clip lights yet, and for me that’s a first.

The cost of these two weren’t too far apart. The dual sealed setup was about $150 more expensive, but theFP14000 was 3x the cost of an EP4000.
As I get some time to listen, and for the new drivers to break in, I’ll post some thoughts on the sound differences between the two. Even at this point with only a couple minutes of listening, I prefer the sealed setup.
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post #88 of 176 Old 10-26-2011, 09:03 AM
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Looks great!

How are you liking it.
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post #89 of 176 Old 10-28-2011, 08:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Looks great!

How are you liking it.

The sub sounds better every time I hear it. I think it's the drivers breaking in. I have a good 8-10 hours on them now.

I knew going into the VMP build and then dual Captivators that I preferred the sealed sound, so I'm not surprised I've finally reached sub nirvana with a sealed setup.

It's the cleanest and lowest bass I've ever heard, and it never sounds strained even when close to 130db. The FP14000 still just seems endless for power, it's incredible.

I do need to do some EQ'ing, but I'm going to wait about a month. I start building the second box tonight
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post #90 of 176 Old 10-28-2011, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post


It's the cleanest and lowest bass I've ever heard, and it never sounds strained even when close to 130db. The FP14000 still just seems endless for power, it's incredible.

Another happy customer !!!
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