Lilmike's LilWrecker - Page 30 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #871 of 992 Old 09-16-2018, 05:37 AM
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No worries, I feel you.

Glad to hear about the theater.
I gutted my whole basement in 2007, in 2008 I had my first child and in 2010 I had my twins. The theater had to be put on the back burner many times....Hell! Carpet was installed only last year and I finally got to change the sofa and TV for some theater seats and a projector this summer.

Just keep grinding, enjoy life and again thank you for your contribution. That lilwrecker still puts a smile on my face for both movies and music!

Phil.

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post #872 of 992 Old 09-17-2018, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post
Don't hold your breath waiting. Still a lot of other stuff that takes priority in my world.

I'm close enough to having a theater to where I am mounting my equipment rack tonight. Still a long road ahead, but not nearly as long as it used to be.
Looking forward to seeing more posts from you again, if time ever allows.

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post #873 of 992 Old 10-16-2018, 12:01 PM
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NX3000DSP settings.

I recently finished the Lilwrecker with an Alpine SWS-15D4.
The Alpine(8ohm) is being powered by one channel of a Behringer NX3000D amplifier.The other channel is powering a 36" wide BFM THT.

The attached measurement was taken with the mic placed at the horn mouth with the subwoofer in room.The Lilwrecker is the only sub on.

Results are with no highpass , 20Hz 12db butterworth highpass and 17hz highpass.
The 17Hz highpass was set by the method outlined by LTD02.

Does it seem like the amplifier is limiting the lower end output of the Lilwrecker?
The no highpass result looks good to me but i am concerned that there will be no protection for the driver for frequencies below 17Hz.
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post #874 of 992 Old 10-20-2018, 05:49 PM
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Wow! Just stumbled across this and am already thinking about what I have to move in the garage to start making this 🙂

However, I cant see the zip file of dimensions on page one. Is there another link to them?
Also, will the design accomodate a Stereo integrity 18” (old model, from about 3 years ago) with just a bigger cutout? I saw some posts talking about 15s and 18s, whereas the original plans were seemingly for a 15. If it has to be a 15, thats fine.


Thanks!
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post #875 of 992 Old 10-20-2018, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexmasterPEB View Post
Wow! Just stumbled across this and am already thinking about what I have to move in the garage to start making this 🙂

However, I cant see the zip file of dimensions on page one. Is there another link to them?
Also, will the design accomodate a Stereo integrity 18” (old model, from about 3 years ago) with just a bigger cutout? I saw some posts talking about 15s and 18s, whereas the original plans were seemingly for a 15. If it has to be a 15, thats fine.


Thanks!
The design was specifically made for the old Kicker 10CVX152/4. You can find these on sale for around $200 per - just use one.
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post #876 of 992 Old 10-21-2018, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zora View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TexmasterPEB View Post
Wow! Just stumbled across this and am already thinking about what I have to move in the garage to start making this 🙂

However, I cant see the zip file of dimensions on page one. Is there another link to them?
Also, will the design accomodate a Stereo integrity 18” (old model, from about 3 years ago) with just a bigger cutout? I saw some posts talking about 15s and 18s, whereas the original plans were seemingly for a 15. If it has to be a 15, thats fine.


Thanks!
The design was specifically made for the old Kicker 10CVX152/4. You can find these on sale for around $200 per - just use one.
Thank you sir.
Are the enclosure plans available?
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post #877 of 992 Old 10-21-2018, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexmasterPEB View Post
Thank you sir.
Are the enclosure plans available?
disregard the request for the enclosure plans; the links in 1st post are working via my 2nd computer.

Thanks!
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post #878 of 992 Old 10-22-2018, 12:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Glad you were able to get the plans downloaded. This is a 15" cabinet, no way an 18" will work in the horn as it was designed.

The old Kicker CVX was the driver I had to work with at the time. I used the Dual 4, coils in series. Other drivers that work are discussed early on in the thread, but that information is a bit dated. Has this thread really been going on for more than 5 years???

Currently - Kicker's pricing is just plain nuts, especially for what you're getting for the $$$. The Alpine Type S is a pretty good replacement, it hits well above its weight class, but it really is limited to a kilowatt, and goes non-linear before that.

Based on the published specs, I am pretty sure that the new Sundown U series 15" drivers will also work, but I haven't bought and tested them. Driver mounting depth might be an issue, but the information I have found suggests that it will be OK. Street price for the U series 15 is the same as the CVX. If I were shopping today, I know which one I'd pick (and I have a couple of CVXs). Lower specific inductance, >10 more mm of clean throw and about double the power handling? Yes, please.
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post #879 of 992 Old 10-22-2018, 07:59 AM
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Well, I ordered an Alpine. Found one at a good price, so it will have to do.
Does it matter if I top or undermount the driver? I can sort out the box build with it mounted either way, just dont want to somehow hamper overall performance.

I currently run an 18” stereo integrity in a custom ported box, which is about half the size of the lilwrecker, and am very curious to see which one performs best. Likely the lilwrecker, but time will tell!
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post #880 of 992 Old 10-22-2018, 10:01 AM - Thread Starter
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The driver gets mounted in the mouth after the cabinet is built. No way to change it out otherwise.

The Alpine is a good choice.
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post #881 of 992 Old 10-23-2018, 06:11 AM
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I have always used MDF for my builds, but want to try birch on this one. Where do y’all buy your sheets of birch ply?
HD has 4x8 sheets that are not a true 3/4” thick, and they are glued together with soy?! Would rather use something else if possible, but Lowes doesnt have sheets bigger than 2x4.
Thanks
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post #882 of 992 Old 10-23-2018, 11:43 AM - Thread Starter
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As far as a source for good plywood? It all depends on where you are. I take a trip to a proper lumber yard (Compton's in Seattle) when I need to buy Arauco ply or European Birch ply, then I typically buy enough to make the trip worth my while.

Nothing sold at my Home Depot or Lowes comes close, though I used to be able to get Arauco at Home Depot years back. That PureBond Birch isn't that great, I have used it.

European Birch is not a good option for the LilWrecker, it is typically sold in 5X5 sheets, not 4X8, 5X5s are too small to make the LilWrecker.

I recommend Arauco ply for this cabinet.
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post #883 of 992 Old 10-23-2018, 07:06 PM
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Ripped 8 sheets of Birch ply for two more Lilwreckers today, project got delayed due to travel, West coast, England etc.
Good clean Ply with zero voids,

One thing I did on the first pair to align the last side glued on was to glue small 2 inch bits of screen moulding (1/4 x 1/2) on either side of a few panels as drawn in pencil.
Once glue was applied to the edges of all sides and baffles the top Basically self aligns by slotting itself between these tabs.
Worked great first time around.

The Son of a friend is helping, trying to teach him a few concepts, namely "because I can" and Measure twice cut once.
Aught to be done this week aside painting. Prob let him do that next week.
If we don't take the time to teach them who will?

Looking forward to 4 Lilwreckers on two Inuke 3000DSP's and 4 Mackie C200s on a Crown 1502 I think it is.

Monster sound run via a Yamaha Pre to DBS Drive rack to amps aught to be very clean sounding! High pass filters as stated in the other thread and let the drive rack calibrate the rest.

Thanks Mike!
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post #884 of 992 Old 10-25-2018, 07:36 PM
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Got my Alpine today. When face mounting, there is a slight extrusion lip around the OD of the frame, facing forward. How do you get a good load distribution with the bolts if it sits on that lip? How do you seal it properly?
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post #885 of 992 Old 10-26-2018, 03:15 PM
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Progress, but I still need to find a good way to seal the driver to the baffle w/o it looking like crap.
Maple ply for this baffle, and I’m going to use MDF for the rest of the cabinet.
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post #886 of 992 Old 10-28-2018, 10:38 AM
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I used duct seal. It comes in a "brick" and you can get it at the local HD or Lowes. Best of all, it's cheap.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...l#post35301114
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post #887 of 992 Old 11-02-2018, 06:44 AM
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In my assembly haste, i managed to rotate the woofer baffle 180 degrees. Thus, the woofer will sit closer to the mouth than to the back of the throat. Is this going to affect performace?
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post #888 of 992 Old 11-04-2018, 09:05 AM
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Mike would know for sure but I wouldn't think so, the compression in that small chamber would remain the same.
I did wonder why the offset front to back though.
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post #889 of 992 Old 11-04-2018, 09:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Unfortunately, yes, it will make a difference. How much? I have no idea.

I put the woofer cutout where I did to place the driver as far back in the the throat and mouth of the horn as possible.
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post #890 of 992 Old 11-04-2018, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post
Unfortunately, yes, it will make a difference. How much? I have no idea.

I put the woofer cutout where I did to place the driver as far back in the the throat and mouth of the horn as possible.
Won't it also be a heavier load on the driver itself, since the S1 (did I get that right?) will be shorter?
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post #891 of 992 Old 11-04-2018, 06:11 PM - Thread Starter
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No, with the cutout nearer the mouth, L12 gets longer, as does L34. The main issue is that L45 gets shorter, which actually decouples the woofer (there's no horn in front of the woofer to load it).

I drew in the dimensions in the attached pic.



Yeah, we are only talking about an inch, in a 21 plus foot long horn. It might not be that big of a deal, or it might be a disaster. Don't know.
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post #892 of 992 Old 11-04-2018, 08:16 PM
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Not the greatest news, but I’ll press on since its fully assembled. Also, my cut out was 13.75, so I have an extra 1/8” in my favor.

I’ll try to toss the woofer in this week and see how it does in the garage. I have no meter, so I guess I’ll have to see how many tools rattle... best to try it now before lugging a few hundred pounds inside and then upstairs.

Thanks for your help Mike.
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post #893 of 992 Old 11-05-2018, 04:49 AM
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It looks like the cutout only overlaps the first horn leg that runs the length of the enclosure about 3/4”. The surround should fill that area, hopefully leaving the cone and sound waves to load up on the first baffle. 🤞🤞🤞🤞
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post #894 of 992 Old 11-05-2018, 07:22 AM
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Update; even if it sounds ok in the garage I’m too ocd to leave it be and constantly wonder what if.
I will surgically remove the existing baffle as best I can and install a replacement in the proper orientation.
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post #895 of 992 Old 11-05-2018, 05:20 PM
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One of those oscillating tools with a flush surface cutting blade might work well for that, did you close up the rest of the build?
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post #896 of 992 Old 11-05-2018, 06:08 PM
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One of those oscillating tools with a flush surface cutting blade might work well for that, did you close up the rest of the build?
Yes sir, I’m using a multi tool for the removal; Combo of blades for wood and metal (the screws).

Yes, its fully assembled. Just rotating it 90 degrees to better access one side for the cutting is a major chore. Getting it upstairs is going to be a multi person ordeal!
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post #897 of 992 Old 11-05-2018, 06:53 PM
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Yeah, they ain't easy to move, I can do it myself with a hand truck, point of balance is critical!
Still, for my purpose, open air sound, they're worth it.
Mind blowing sound, even at 100' down the driveway!
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post #898 of 992 Old 11-07-2018, 04:48 PM
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Slow progress... its much more difficult that I would have ever imagined! Still need to true up the exposed face, and clean up the other mating surfaces.
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post #899 of 992 Old 11-07-2018, 06:17 PM
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Slow progress... its much more difficult that I would have ever imagined! Still need to true up the exposed face, and clean up the other mating surfaces.
That is a lot of work in a little place. Good on you to do it though! You are almost there!

Cheers!

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post #900 of 992 Old 11-07-2018, 07:51 PM
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Will sand the bondo down once dry, and its back to the races! New baffle cut and ready for install.
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