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post #991 of 1017 Old 10-08-2019, 09:25 AM
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Most amps actually have two amplifiers in them. One for each channel. Unless it's a mono amplifier. The left and right channels work completely separately, so it's easier to think of them as two different amplifiers. When you bridge the channels you give on the opposite signal of the other, so you drive the speaker with two opposite signals to get twice the power. Some amps are not capable of this, and you must divide the driver impedance by 2 because each channel gets half of it. So bridging a 2ohm stable amp with one 2 ohm driver would break it. But a 4ohm driver would give 2ohm per channel and would be fine.



The engineers for the kicker CWR152 planned for this specifically. So instead of one 4ohm voil coil they gave it two 2 ohm coils. So each can be powered with a separate channel. It just makes it easier on you. So the coils could be wired in series to give 4ohms, in parallel for 1ohm or separately for 2 ohms x2. Because your amp is 2ohm stable, I would go for doing them separately. You could wire them in parallel for 4 ohms then bridge it on your amp, then each channel would be doing 2ohms, but I think it will sound better separately. Either way you are going to 1000 watts (kindof, they exaggerate their figures by a bunch).


Lenard explains Bridging on his website under the output stage of amplifier pages. I can't link to it because this is only my 3rd post
It's mostly useful for cars where they have very little supply voltage. Not necessary for home applications where you have as much as you want.
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post #992 of 1017 Old 10-16-2019, 09:17 AM
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Hey Folks!

I’ve been studying this sub approach for months now in preparation for a build. I recently came across Fitzmaurice’s Tuba HT and was wondering which Wrecker (Lil, House, Micro, or F-20) it might best compare to AND is one of the Wreckers going to easily outperform it, such that I might start there instead?

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post #993 of 1017 Old 01-14-2020, 04:54 AM
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I am working on building a microwrecker currently and am using pocket screws for most of the panels as it is just easier for me to install them by myself. Do I need to fill the pocket holes? Will they make some kind of acoustic annoyance with the air blowing over them, or are they too small to worry about?
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post #994 of 1017 Old 01-14-2020, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drxlcarfreak View Post
I am working on building a microwrecker currently and am using pocket screws for most of the panels as it is just easier for me to install them by myself. Do I need to fill the pocket holes? Will they make some kind of acoustic annoyance with the air blowing over them, or are they too small to worry about?
I don't ever recall seeing anyone fill them. I highly doubt that they'd cause any noise form the pocket. It would be more likely for them to leak from one side to the other, but overall, not very likely if installed correctly with plenty of glue on the panel edge surface.
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post #995 of 1017 Old 01-15-2020, 01:45 PM
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Fair enough. I only saw one person using pocket holes and they had opted to fill them in. My worry was the air rushing by them may cause a small whistle. I plan to use the PL Premium lilmike suggested, so hopefully that is thick enough to not allow leakage.
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post #996 of 1017 Old 01-15-2020, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drxlcarfreak View Post
Fair enough. I only saw one person using pocket holes and they had opted to fill them in. My worry was the air rushing by them may cause a small whistle. I plan to use the PL Premium lilmike suggested, so hopefully that is thick enough to not allow leakage.
It won't hurt anything to fill them and better safe than sorry. I would say you don't HAVE to use PL in the pocket holes and could use some cheaper silicone instead. There have been several people that have made horns with pocket holes @hd0823 @BryceDH @asarose247 and others with experience that will hopefully chime in. I didn't use pocket holes for mine, so no noise regardless.

Be sure to take some pics and share impressions! Everyone loves hearing DIY feedback!
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post #997 of 1017 Old 01-15-2020, 02:26 PM
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Oh duh... I wasnt thinking of just filling them with PL. I am use to bondo or wood putty and was fretting the fill/sand x3 to make a paintable surface.

Just quickly filling with some PL or silicone is easy peasy! Better safe than sorry in that regard.

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post #998 of 1017 Old 01-15-2020, 02:33 PM
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You'll be fine without filling them all my boxs dont have them filled and I get no sounds coming from them. The first box I started to fill them and decided it was taking to much time lol

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post #999 of 1017 Old 01-15-2020, 04:27 PM
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I didnt fill mine. I figured the glue on the "bottom" would do the trick. The sub sounds great.

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post #1000 of 1017 Old 01-16-2020, 11:56 AM
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Ditto on the "no need to fill"
except when exterior finishing

then there's that piper to pay
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post #1001 of 1017 Old 01-16-2020, 12:19 PM
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FWIW those little wood plugs they sell for pocket holes are actually easier and faster than trying to fill with filler. They sand down really fast with an orbital.

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post #1002 of 1017 Old 01-18-2020, 10:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drxlcarfreak View Post
I am working on building a microwrecker currently and am using pocket screws for most of the panels as it is just easier for me to install them by myself. Do I need to fill the pocket holes? Will they make some kind of acoustic annoyance with the air blowing over them, or are they too small to worry about?
I've never filled any of mine. I pocket screw most of the bracing in my sub cabinets, occasionally the panels too. I've never noticed a problem.
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post #1003 of 1017 Old 01-19-2020, 03:10 PM
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Thanks for the input, like you said I decided not to fill them. I also went against the grain of the thread and used MDF. Since I built this to use up the existing sub and amp I had sitting in my garage, I didn't want to spend the extra money for the decent plywood because it'll just get beat up anyways. I am waiting on a more powerful 12v power supply (and speakon terminals), but at 500 watts, it fills up a 30x30 garage pretty well. I cant imagine how it will sound under full power, much less in a properly sound deadened HT.

One thing I did notice and its probably because I used MDF was the top panel, even with the bracing, vibrates a decent bit. The rest of the box is very solid though. I think I am going to laminate another sheet on top to see if that helps reduce the vibrations.
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post #1004 of 1017 Old 01-20-2020, 03:42 PM
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Lilmike's LilWrecker

Are the any plans for a 12” or 10” drivers?
I have a one of the Dayton Audio TS400D-4 15" Titanic Mk 4 Subwoofer 4 Ohm
that i can use as well
So any ideas about any of these drivers working in the type of box


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post #1005 of 1017 Old 04-14-2020, 06:14 PM
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So we are in total lockdown in the Bahamas, Trying to prevent a Covid-19 outbreak,
Hope all here are well and safe.
I hosted a driveway party with the 4 Wreckers, and One attendee! (Me)
Wife was around the corner of our house (a null zone) taking requests from 8-10 neighbors!
Was a bunch of fun, I got a txt from a neighbor a little over a 1/4 mile away asking for "Hey Jude"

Anyway, I say all of that to say this: One Lilwrecker got the death rattle! not the driver. So I trimmed it down,
went in the throat the next day and discovered The last brace in the sound path was no longer attached to either inner or outer panel!
AKA opened seams. Serious pressure apparently on that back panel!
Not a hard fix, remove the driver and I can get in there with more PL Premium, spread it for glue insertion and then clamp the box externally.
I decided to look in them all and found the second of the first set built also had one open seam on that brace.
Age/Heat/humidity? No shortage of glue used.
I doubt any internal braces are separated, be kinda hard for the internal "walls" to shift I think.

Was a fun evening tho! RE-Glue tomorrow. Really throws the bass down the driveway. Echoes all through the hood!
Someone called the cops I think, prob expected them to find a party crowd going on, car came past but didn't stop, just me in the driveway, no breach of Marshal law.

Great Subs Mike! 4 more would be phenomenal...........
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post #1006 of 1017 Old 06-11-2020, 01:15 PM
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So we are in total lockdown in the Bahamas, Trying to prevent a Covid-19 outbreak,
Hope all here are well and safe.
I hosted a driveway party with the 4 Wreckers, and One attendee! (Me)
Wife was around the corner of our house (a null zone) taking requests from 8-10 neighbors!
Was a bunch of fun, I got a txt from a neighbor a little over a 1/4 mile away asking for "Hey Jude"

Anyway, I say all of that to say this: One Lilwrecker got the death rattle! not the driver. So I trimmed it down,
went in the throat the next day and discovered The last brace in the sound path was no longer attached to either inner or outer panel!
AKA opened seams. Serious pressure apparently on that back panel!
Not a hard fix, remove the driver and I can get in there with more PL Premium, spread it for glue insertion and then clamp the box externally.
I decided to look in them all and found the second of the first set built also had one open seam on that brace.
Age/Heat/humidity? No shortage of glue used.
I doubt any internal braces are separated, be kinda hard for the internal "walls" to shift I think.

Was a fun evening tho! RE-Glue tomorrow. Really throws the bass down the driveway. Echoes all through the hood!
Someone called the cops I think, prob expected them to find a party crowd going on, car came past but didn't stop, just me in the driveway, no breach of Marshal law.

Great Subs Mike! 4 more would be phenomenal...........
HEY GUYS, ME AND MY FRIEND ARE BUILDING THIS SUB RIGHT NOW, BUYING EVERYTHING..I WAS GONNA GO WITH THE ROCKFORD P3 SUB...BUT THE SCAR AUDIO EVL15 LOOKS REALLY GOOD. CAN YOU GUYS VERIFY THAT THIS SUB WILL WORK? THANKS! https://www.ebay.com/itm/201983768315
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post #1007 of 1017 Old 06-11-2020, 03:06 PM
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Was a bunch of fun, I got a txt from a neighbor a little over a 1/4 mile away asking for "Hey Jude"

Anyway, I
Not a hard fix, remove the driver and I can get in there with more PL Premium, spread it for glue insertion and then clamp the box externally.
I decided to look in them all and found the second of the first set built also had one open seam on that brace.
Age/Heat/humidity? No shortage of glue used.
I doubt any internal braces are separated, be kinda hard for the internal

HEY GUYS, ME AND MY FRIEND ARE BUILDING THIS SUB RIGHT NOW, BUYING EVERYTHING..I WAS GONNA GO WITH THE ROCKFORD P3 SUB...BUT THE SCAR AUDIO EVL15 LOOKS REALLY GOOD. CAN YOU GUYS VERIFY THAT THIS SUB WILL WORK? THANKS! https://www.ebay.com/itm/201983768315[/QUOTE]

Never mind, this was addressed already...im going with the Rockfordfosgate p3
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post #1008 of 1017 Old 06-12-2020, 05:37 PM
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Guys, i will be using a yung 500-6 plate amplifier, will this plate amp work with the lilwrecker?? Or am i wasting my time
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post #1009 of 1017 Old 06-12-2020, 05:38 PM
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I don’t know if this is allowed here, but I have up for sale a pair of the SI HT15s that this sub was first designed for if anyone has any interest.


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post #1010 of 1017 Old 06-15-2020, 03:36 PM
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yup

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I don’t know if this is allowed here, but I have up for sale a pair of the SI HT15s that this sub was first designed for if anyone has any interest.


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well i cant pm you yet, i might be interested..what ohms are they? on that note, Question for you guys.

if i run 2 d4 ohm subwoofers...in series on each to make 8ohms per woofer. how do i wire that up to my amp to make 4 ohms? i have an xls2500 i plan on using
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post #1011 of 1017 Old 06-15-2020, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by mslstudio22 View Post
well i cant pm you yet, i might be interested..what ohms are they? on that note, Question for you guys.

if i run 2 d4 ohm subwoofers...in series on each to make 8ohms per woofer. how do i wire that up to my amp to make 4 ohms? i have an xls2500 i plan on using

They’re dual 2ohm.

After getting them wired to 8ohms you would then wire both parallel to drop it back down to 4ohm.


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post #1012 of 1017 Old 06-15-2020, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by imrf View Post
They’re dual 2ohm.

After getting them wired to 8ohms you would then wire both parallel to drop it back down to 4ohm.
A dual 2 ohm speaker can be wired for 1 ohm or 4 ohm.

Then you can wire the pair of 1 ohm speakers for .5 ohm or 2 ohm.
Or wire the pair of 4 ohm speakers for 2 ohm or 8 ohm.

I can't think of any way to get a pair of D2 speakers wired to present a single 4 ohm load.

"The boom is dead, long live the bass"
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post #1013 of 1017 Old 06-15-2020, 07:44 PM
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A dual 2 ohm speaker can be wired for 1 ohm or 4 ohm.

Then you can wire the pair of 1 ohm speakers for .5 ohm or 2 ohm.
Or wire the pair of 4 ohm speakers for 2 ohm or 8 ohm.

I can't think of any way to get a pair of D2 speakers wired to present a single 4 ohm load.

I was just answering him on his question. The dual 2 was in regards to his question on what coils my subs have. Sorry about the confusion.


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post #1014 of 1017 Old 06-15-2020, 07:46 PM
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Oh I see, hah yeah that was confusing for me since I read your reply but not his question. Sorry
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"The boom is dead, long live the bass"
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post #1015 of 1017 Old 06-16-2020, 03:18 PM
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thanks

Thanks a lot guys, so out of the amp ill just hook up the two 8ohm loads together and make 4 ohm and run the amp bridged... thanks a lot guys.
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post #1016 of 1017 Old 06-16-2020, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
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They’re dual 2ohm.

After getting them wired to 8ohms you would then wire both parallel to drop it back down to 4ohm.


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do you think these will work for the microwreckers?? i switched it up lol. can you pm me your contact info??
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post #1017 of 1017 Old 06-16-2020, 04:10 PM
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do you think these will work for the microwreckers?? i switched it up lol. can you pm me your contact info??

Honestly I have no idea. I’ll PM you.


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