Lilmike's LilWrecker - Page 34 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #991 of 1004 Old 10-08-2019, 10:25 AM
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Most amps actually have two amplifiers in them. One for each channel. Unless it's a mono amplifier. The left and right channels work completely separately, so it's easier to think of them as two different amplifiers. When you bridge the channels you give on the opposite signal of the other, so you drive the speaker with two opposite signals to get twice the power. Some amps are not capable of this, and you must divide the driver impedance by 2 because each channel gets half of it. So bridging a 2ohm stable amp with one 2 ohm driver would break it. But a 4ohm driver would give 2ohm per channel and would be fine.



The engineers for the kicker CWR152 planned for this specifically. So instead of one 4ohm voil coil they gave it two 2 ohm coils. So each can be powered with a separate channel. It just makes it easier on you. So the coils could be wired in series to give 4ohms, in parallel for 1ohm or separately for 2 ohms x2. Because your amp is 2ohm stable, I would go for doing them separately. You could wire them in parallel for 4 ohms then bridge it on your amp, then each channel would be doing 2ohms, but I think it will sound better separately. Either way you are going to 1000 watts (kindof, they exaggerate their figures by a bunch).


Lenard explains Bridging on his website under the output stage of amplifier pages. I can't link to it because this is only my 3rd post
It's mostly useful for cars where they have very little supply voltage. Not necessary for home applications where you have as much as you want.
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post #992 of 1004 Old 10-16-2019, 10:17 AM
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Hey Folks!

I’ve been studying this sub approach for months now in preparation for a build. I recently came across Fitzmaurice’s Tuba HT and was wondering which Wrecker (Lil, House, Micro, or F-20) it might best compare to AND is one of the Wreckers going to easily outperform it, such that I might start there instead?

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post #993 of 1004 Old 01-14-2020, 05:54 AM
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I am working on building a microwrecker currently and am using pocket screws for most of the panels as it is just easier for me to install them by myself. Do I need to fill the pocket holes? Will they make some kind of acoustic annoyance with the air blowing over them, or are they too small to worry about?
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post #994 of 1004 Old 01-14-2020, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drxlcarfreak View Post
I am working on building a microwrecker currently and am using pocket screws for most of the panels as it is just easier for me to install them by myself. Do I need to fill the pocket holes? Will they make some kind of acoustic annoyance with the air blowing over them, or are they too small to worry about?
I don't ever recall seeing anyone fill them. I highly doubt that they'd cause any noise form the pocket. It would be more likely for them to leak from one side to the other, but overall, not very likely if installed correctly with plenty of glue on the panel edge surface.
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post #995 of 1004 Old 01-15-2020, 02:45 PM
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Fair enough. I only saw one person using pocket holes and they had opted to fill them in. My worry was the air rushing by them may cause a small whistle. I plan to use the PL Premium lilmike suggested, so hopefully that is thick enough to not allow leakage.
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post #996 of 1004 Old 01-15-2020, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drxlcarfreak View Post
Fair enough. I only saw one person using pocket holes and they had opted to fill them in. My worry was the air rushing by them may cause a small whistle. I plan to use the PL Premium lilmike suggested, so hopefully that is thick enough to not allow leakage.
It won't hurt anything to fill them and better safe than sorry. I would say you don't HAVE to use PL in the pocket holes and could use some cheaper silicone instead. There have been several people that have made horns with pocket holes @hd0823 @BryceDH @asarose247 and others with experience that will hopefully chime in. I didn't use pocket holes for mine, so no noise regardless.

Be sure to take some pics and share impressions! Everyone loves hearing DIY feedback!
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post #997 of 1004 Old 01-15-2020, 03:26 PM
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Oh duh... I wasnt thinking of just filling them with PL. I am use to bondo or wood putty and was fretting the fill/sand x3 to make a paintable surface.

Just quickly filling with some PL or silicone is easy peasy! Better safe than sorry in that regard.

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post #998 of 1004 Old 01-15-2020, 03:33 PM
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You'll be fine without filling them all my boxs dont have them filled and I get no sounds coming from them. The first box I started to fill them and decided it was taking to much time lol

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post #999 of 1004 Old 01-15-2020, 05:27 PM
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I didnt fill mine. I figured the glue on the "bottom" would do the trick. The sub sounds great.

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post #1000 of 1004 Old 01-16-2020, 12:56 PM
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Ditto on the "no need to fill"
except when exterior finishing

then there's that piper to pay
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post #1001 of 1004 Old 01-16-2020, 01:19 PM
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FWIW those little wood plugs they sell for pocket holes are actually easier and faster than trying to fill with filler. They sand down really fast with an orbital.

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post #1002 of 1004 Old 01-18-2020, 11:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drxlcarfreak View Post
I am working on building a microwrecker currently and am using pocket screws for most of the panels as it is just easier for me to install them by myself. Do I need to fill the pocket holes? Will they make some kind of acoustic annoyance with the air blowing over them, or are they too small to worry about?
I've never filled any of mine. I pocket screw most of the bracing in my sub cabinets, occasionally the panels too. I've never noticed a problem.
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post #1003 of 1004 Old 01-19-2020, 04:10 PM
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Thanks for the input, like you said I decided not to fill them. I also went against the grain of the thread and used MDF. Since I built this to use up the existing sub and amp I had sitting in my garage, I didn't want to spend the extra money for the decent plywood because it'll just get beat up anyways. I am waiting on a more powerful 12v power supply (and speakon terminals), but at 500 watts, it fills up a 30x30 garage pretty well. I cant imagine how it will sound under full power, much less in a properly sound deadened HT.

One thing I did notice and its probably because I used MDF was the top panel, even with the bracing, vibrates a decent bit. The rest of the box is very solid though. I think I am going to laminate another sheet on top to see if that helps reduce the vibrations.
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post #1004 of 1004 Old 01-20-2020, 04:42 PM
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Lilmike's LilWrecker

Are the any plans for a 12” or 10” drivers?
I have a one of the Dayton Audio TS400D-4 15" Titanic Mk 4 Subwoofer 4 Ohm
that i can use as well
So any ideas about any of these drivers working in the type of box


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Last edited by hessc50; 01-23-2020 at 02:27 AM.
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