Dual Sealed SI HS24 Build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 05:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Dual Sealed SI HS24 Build

So here will be the first ever sub I have ever build, I just received the dual HS 24" drivers from Nick last weekend, Nick did a great job in solid packaging to ensure its perfect condition throughout the long journey delivery, special thanks to Nick planning to start the build in coming weeks

Previously, I have owned many ported subs like Klipsch Sub 10 (my first ever sub ), HSU MBM-12, Rythmik FV15HP, Rythmik F12 (sealed), SVS PC12-Plus and JTR Captivator (4K Watts Passive) & dual buttkicker LFE tactile transducers, I really want to try sealed subs this time for the extreme low frequencies I have a question here, will these dual sealed subs achieve my goal in a non-sealed room? as my setup is in my living room with open areas to kitchen

As for the sealed box dimension, I would like to go for a 10 cubic feet or 28" x 28" x 28", any recommendations & suggestions are most welcome especially on areas such as internal bracing, polyfill......etc

Dual HS24



Last edited by WereWolf84; 10-22-2014 at 10:54 PM.
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post #2 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 05:14 AM
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You're off to a good start smile.gif
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post #3 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 05:29 AM - Thread Starter
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build process


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post #4 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 05:30 AM - Thread Starter
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You're off to a good start smile.gif
Wow, you are quick to response biggrin.gif thanks anyway wink.gif
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post #5 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 05:33 AM
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Cool!

You should have no problem in achieving your goals with two of those bad boys!

I am guessing you are talking 10 cubes for each driver? If so, that should be about perfect.
Just brace them well, don't over complicate it. I would use fill, but it is not required.

You are definitely taking it up a few notches moving from the subs you mentioned to dual 24s! Awesome!

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post #6 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 05:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

Cool!

You should have no problem in achieving your goals with two of those bad boys!

I am guessing you are talking 10 cubes for each driver? If so, that should be about perfect.
Just brace them well, don't over complicate it. I would use fill, but it is not required.

You are definitely taking it up a few notches moving from the subs you mentioned to dual 24s! Awesome!
you are right, I'm going for 10 cubic feet sealed box for each driver
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post #7 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 05:39 AM
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you are right, I'm going for 10 cubic feet sealed box for each driver

Awesome, bass bliss here we come!cool.gif

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post #8 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 05:45 AM - Thread Starter
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you mean polyfill is not required? I know Swolephile built his sealed box without stuffed it and it sounds great to him
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post #9 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 05:50 AM
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If you build the box to the exact volume intended then polyfil is not required.
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post #10 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 05:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is what I got using this calculator



so, polyfill/ pillows are not needed?
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post #11 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 05:55 AM
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I'll tell you my feeling on bracing, but some would call it overkill......but I'm saying this to a guy with 24" subs soooo biggrin.gif

I like to place bracing so there is no more than a six inch space unbraced in any given direction where possible. I also like to make panels instead of just using stick bracing. To me, it's more time consuming, but a bit easier to get amble bracing in and be sure to clear all the internals by designing the brace as a whole piece around everthing.
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post #12 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 05:58 AM
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you mean polyfill is not required? I know Swolephile built his sealed box without stuffed it and it sounds great to him

No, not required. You might want to do some reading: http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=content&id=79

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post #13 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 06:00 AM - Thread Starter
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No, not required. You might want to do some reading: http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=content&id=79
Thanks for the link wink.gif
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post #14 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 06:02 AM - Thread Starter
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I'll tell you my feeling on bracing, but some would call it overkill......but I'm saying this to a guy with 24" subs soooo biggrin.gif

I like to place bracing so there is no more than a six inch space unbraced in any given direction where possible. I also like to make panels instead of just using stick bracing. To me, it's more time consuming, but a bit easier to get amble bracing in and be sure to clear all the internals by designing the brace as a whole piece around everthing.
I'm thinking to use windows bracing, is that good enough?
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post #15 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 06:07 AM
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Thanks for the link wink.gif

Sure thing. I would stuff them, even if you use cheap pillows.

Also, yes, window bracing is very effective.

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post #16 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 06:15 AM
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I'm thinking to use windows bracing, is that good enough?

IMO yes. Just remember you don't need it at each end panel because the panel itself acts there. I would make the window that spans top to bottom and side to side first (a number of them based on the box size) just because you can make the cutout for the driver basket and motor.....then just put front to back bracing in between each window panel. Use angles coming off the front baffle to "ride" the basket toward the center of the first brace and attach as close to center as possible while clearing the driver. Sorry if that's elementary, I know you said its your first one and these are the things that have made it easier for me since my first projects. Now I make other stupid mistakes....like putting so much bracing that I can't get my hand to the inside back to install binding posts biggrin.gif
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post #17 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 06:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Sure thing. I would stuff them, even if you use cheap pillows.

Also, yes, window bracing is very effective.
if you were me, how much would you stuffing in the 10 cubic feet box?
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post #18 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 06:17 AM
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Sure thing. I would stuff them, even if you use cheap pillows.

Also, yes, window bracing is very effective.

Agreed there too...I always put something in there
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post #19 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 06:19 AM
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if you were me, how much would you stuffing in the 10 cubic feet box?

Stuffing makes subtle differences. So, an extra pound or two is negligible. I am sure you can get quite a few pounds of polyfill in there.
If you go the cheap Wal-Mart pillow route, I would see how many you can get in there without having to severely jam them in. It is also easy having the fill in neat and easy to handle packages, ala pillows.
You obviously don't want the driver's pole vent blocked or anything touching the cone.

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post #20 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 06:23 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm definitely prefer the pillow route, much easier & trouble free, should I line the internal walls with something like Dacron before stuffing pillows in?
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post #21 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 06:24 AM
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I'm definitely prefer the pillow route, much easier & trouble free, should I line the internal walls with something like Dacron before stuffing pillows in?

Nah, I wouldn't bother lining the walls. The fill will do nicely.

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post #22 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 06:25 AM
 
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I'm thinking to use windows bracing, is that good enough?
Window bracing is fine, but do it the right way, shown below on the right. Most do it as pictured on the left, which uses more material, but is less effective.


Don't forget that bracing from the baffle to the back is just as important as the other panels.
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if you were me, how much would you stuffing in the 10 cubic feet box?
Enough to arrive at the desired Q/response.
Quote:
If you build the box to the exact volume intended then polyfil is not required.
Damping is always required, otherwise you'll have internal reflections of above bandwidth harmonics back to the cone, resulting in higher THD. That's totally different from stuffing the cab to lower Q.
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post #23 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 06:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Is this type of window bracing also good?



How much space should I leave between the windows bracing and the motor of the driver? 2 inches ?
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post #24 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 06:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Window bracing is fine, but do it the right way, shown below on the right. Most do it as pictured on the left, which uses more material, but is less effective.


Don't forget that bracing from the baffle to the back is just as important as the other panels.
Enough to arrive at the desired Q/response.
Damping is always required, otherwise you'll have internal reflections of above bandwidth harmonics back to the cone, resulting in higher THD. That's totally different from stuffing the cab to lower Q.
I read somewhere there is a general rule of thumb, one pound polyfill per one cubic feet especially for large box that over 3 cubic feet
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post #25 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 06:38 AM
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I read somewhere there is a general rule of thumb, one pound polyfill per one cubic feet especially for large box that over 3 cubic feet

That's probably a good rule. Again, you are talking subtle differences. See what fits after you have the bracing in place.

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post #26 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

Window bracing is fine, but do it the right way, shown below on the right. Most do it as pictured on the left, which uses more material, but is less effective.


Don't forget that bracing from the baffle to the back is just as important as the other panels.
Enough to arrive at the desired Q/response.
Damping is always required, otherwise you'll have internal reflections of above bandwidth harmonics back to the cone, resulting in higher THD. That's totally different from stuffing the cab to lower Q.

+1 This is exactly what I was saying above...albeit tougher to see without pics tongue.gif
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post #27 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

Window bracing is fine, but do it the right way, shown below on the right. Most do it as pictured on the left, which uses more material, but is less effective.


Don't forget that bracing from the baffle to the back is just as important as the other panels.
Enough to arrive at the desired Q/response.
Damping is always required, otherwise you'll have internal reflections of above bandwidth harmonics back to the cone, resulting in higher THD. That's totally different from stuffing the cab to lower Q.

Friends used to do the one on the left. Then they switch to the one on the right but they don't cut it out from a solid piece. They just us 0.5x2" or 1x1" strips of pine based upon what they find cheapest. Makes it stupidly easy to make (chop saw) and install

I must be guilty because people say I am guilty because they chose to call me guilty because they refuse to see the truth. Much easier to be part of the mob..
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post #28 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 03:15 PM
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Good luck with your build. You should be very pleased with the performance of these drivers.
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post #30 of 233 Old 01-13-2014, 04:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Let's get these babies powered up! biggrin.gif
I'm excited & can't wait to do so biggrin.gif
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