Curved SEOs Tempest Build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 107 Old 04-14-2014, 07:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Awhile back I had this crazy idea to build an elegant curved SEOs tower starting with a curved skeleton. I chose the Tempest as my guinea pig and I'm happy to show off some of the work I've been doing little by little here in the cold winter months.

Here is the original idea thread: https://www.avsforum.com/t/1505240/future-curved-seos-build-cnc-brace-skeleton-idea#post_24068435


Here are some initial pictures of the skeleton being glued and after they were done being glued. The front baffle is 1" mdf, each curved piece is 3/4" plywood as well as the 3 back strips.





I decided to use 1" mdf for the curved panel and kerf it instead of using multiple layers of 1/8" mdf. I had to use a blade that was 3/16" so the kerfs are a little bit larger then what I would have liked but filling the gaps was much easier this way. Test piece:



I built a curved "bed" for the panels to sit in while I was clamping them. Used a lot of glue to fill the kerfs!





Here is a test fitting after the curved back was dry. I had Erich send me non rounded front baffles with no port holes and created a nice curved front piece out of 1-1/2" mdf to give it a bit more curvy-ness!




As weather permitted finally I was able to make more progress this weekend, cutting holes on the bottoms for ports and terminals as well as glue top and bottom end caps. Sanding down those kerfed ridges is going to be a pain!






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post #2 of 107 Old 04-14-2014, 08:02 PM
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Very very nice!eek.gif

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post #3 of 107 Old 04-14-2014, 08:07 PM
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Top quality work .
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post #4 of 107 Old 04-14-2014, 08:13 PM
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post #5 of 107 Old 04-14-2014, 08:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone! Honestly I've put more planning into these towers then the time its taken to build thus far. Its almost an obsession.

Dts, your curved sub build is what inspired me to start working on a curved build of some kind so that means a lot!
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post #6 of 107 Old 04-14-2014, 09:13 PM
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Awesome Awesome awesome work.

I love builds like this ( new. Innovative, risk taking).

With skills like yours...The Marty subs I built, are something you could've tackled in elementary school:)
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post #7 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 04:28 AM
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These are looking fantastic! Very impressive! I am curious, how do you guys make these elaborate bracing panels? How do you ensure that all of these intricate bracing panels are the exact same size? What do you use to cut them & how do you make sure that they all line up properly?
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post #8 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 04:34 AM
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Very nice looking build realtight! I've been contemplating something similar for the tux1099 for the living room. What method did you use on the front baffles??
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post #9 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 04:53 AM
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Pretty slick build. What will you be powering them with ? Will this be for HT or two channel ? Wts, passive XO or active ?

KG

As of Feb 20th still looking for a Marantz SR7010
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post #10 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 05:00 AM
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Very nice, what 's the finish going to be?
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post #11 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 05:14 AM
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Freakin' outstanding! Speaker-building art. Love the front baffle/faces!! biggrin.gif
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post #12 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 05:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

These are looking fantastic! Very impressive! I am curious, how do you guys make these elaborate bracing panels? How do you ensure that all of these intricate bracing panels are the exact same size? What do you use to cut them & how do you make sure that they all line up properly?

Honestly, I found a local cnc guy that cut all of those curved pieces so they are all exact, I started cutting them with a jig and my router and was taking way too long. The red clamps you see in the photos clamp wood at perfect 90 degree angles and the long strips help keep everything in place while they dried.
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post #13 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 05:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopShop1 View Post

Very nice looking build realtight! I've been contemplating something similar for the tux1099 for the living room. What method did you use on the front baffles??

The front baffles were going to be large 45 degree angles until I found this thread on another forum:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-speakers/48848-trompie-s-curved-statement-family-building-thread.html#post453651

On the 7th post you can see the jig this guy created, I did the exact same thing. It took a lot of passes with my router but I think they ended up nice smile.gif
After they were done I decided to keep the baffles Erich sent me and just cut a window into the curved front with my router, and shaved the edges until the two pieces fit perfectly.
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post #14 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 05:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mrevo2u View Post

Very nice, what 's the finish going to be?

It's not set in stone yet, and I'm a little worried about screwing them up but I bought some really nice glossy Madagascar Laminate from cabinetparts.com

The inside flat baffle I'm going to use some leftover zebrawood veneer and stain it gray to give a little contrast to the glossy black laminate.
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post #15 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 05:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgveteran View Post

Pretty slick build. What will you be powering them with ? Will this be for HT or two channel ? Wts, passive XO or active ?

KG

Passive crossover. I have a Yamaha z11. I also have an Adcom gfa-555-II that I might connect to them and let the Yamaha push the other 9 speakers.
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post #16 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 06:29 AM
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You know, realtight, it's not everyone that can say they have some left-over zebrawood veneer...biggrin.gif
The closest I could come to something exotic like that would be left-over extra garlic brats.wink.gif
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post #17 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 08:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Haha, it does sound a little ridiculous doesn't it?

The company that I ordered the veneer from screwed up and sent me two different types. They sent more to make up for it and let me keep the type that didnt match :-)
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post #18 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 08:43 AM
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Outstanding build!

With the ports on the bottom how high off the floor do they need to be so they don't affect tuning?

How much bigger is the cabinet volume compared the recommended 2cuft tempest and does it require a different crossover?

One last thing, you have crazy skills biggrin.gif
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post #19 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 08:56 AM
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Beautiful, can't wait to see the finish product. Definitely something that a nice veneer could benefit from. Subscribed. Bring on the nice weather so you can this one finished up.biggrin.gif
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post #20 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 09:19 AM
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Very very nice. Thanks for sharing.

I've considered a curved build on a much smaller scale. Let me know if I'm on the right track to making the ribs... I'd make a template and trace it onto my sheet goods. Then I'd bandsaw them out within an 1/8" of the line. Then affix the template to the roughly cut out rib. Flush route it out on the router. Repeat for each one.

It seems you were doing something like that, but gave up and went with a CNC. Was that because it was too much work, or you weren't getting a reliable repeatable result??

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post #21 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 09:26 AM
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Tux that's what I did with all 27 ribs in my build. I just screwed the template to the rough cuts and routed for a few hours. The caps I just didn't screw all the way through so no filling wink.gif
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post #22 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by realtight View Post

The front baffles were going to be large 45 degree angles until I found this thread on another forum:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-speakers/48848-trompie-s-curved-statement-family-building-thread.html#post453651

On the 7th post you can see the jig this guy created, I did the exact same thing. It took a lot of passes with my router but I think they ended up nice smile.gif
After they were done I decided to keep the baffles Erich sent me and just cut a window into the curved front with my router, and shaved the edges until the two pieces fit perfectly.

Wow, very cool...I'm gonna have to hit up my good buddy with a cnc and see what can be done that way too biggrin.gif
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post #23 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Very very nice. Thanks for sharing.

I've considered a curved build on a much smaller scale. Let me know if I'm on the right track to making the ribs... I'd make a template and trace it onto my sheet goods. Then I'd bandsaw them out within an 1/8" of the line. Then affix the template to the roughly cut out rib. Flush route it out on the router. Repeat for each one.

It seems you were doing something like that, but gave up and went with a CNC. Was that because it was too much work, or you weren't getting a reliable repeatable result??

The initial shape's outside edge is just half of a diameter which I cut with my router and the straight part has a 1/4" indent to lock onto the mdf board. I used my dads bandsaw for the inside braces but after the first piece was done I received a quote from my cnc guy that I couldn't pass up.

He only charged me a wholesale price for the wood and an hour of time. It was actually cheaper for me to go that route so I couldnt pass it up. While he did those I started on the front boards which took forever because my work and the outside weather.
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post #24 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 10:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mjaudio View Post

Outstanding build!

With the ports on the bottom how high off the floor do they need to be so they don't affect tuning?

How much bigger is the cabinet volume compared the recommended 2cuft tempest and does it require a different crossover?

One last thing, you have crazy skills biggrin.gif

Thanks - I think anyone on here with the right tools and patience could do the same. I dont consider myself a talented wood worker.

The internal volume is exactly the same as the kit. The ports need to have the same vertical clearance as their diameter which is 2.5". I'm going to build a 1" bottom piece that has a hole in the middle and install 1.5" spikes that PE sales.
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post #25 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 12:30 PM
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Very cool!

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post #26 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 12:34 PM
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WOW! Those look stunning!
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post #27 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 05:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Do any of you have experience with kerfed panels? The more I think about it, sanding those bent ridges down wont leave much left for the mdf. How smooth do the sides have to be for the laminate to hide the ridges?
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post #28 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by realtight View Post

Do any of you have experience with kerfed panels? The more I think about it, sanding those bent ridges down wont leave much left for the mdf. How smooth do the sides have to be for the laminate to hide the ridges?

This is a great piece of work! The one odd thing that popped out for me was the "chunkiness" of the kerfing - when I've done curved mdf (and other woods) I typically remove a lot more material - If I'm using a 3/32" blade I'll make a cut, move the wood over by twice the width of the blade (3/16") and make the next pass, so I end up with 50% of the material being removed (making a jig to do this is easy and ensures regularity of cuts). I also find it good to experiment with the cut depth - leaving too little material will emphasize each kerf, and leaving too much behind makes the piece brittle, but once you get it dialed in you can make a completely smooth piece where the kerfs are invisible from the face side (i.e. no sanding required). Just be prepared to create a lot of saw dust!

It's definitely worth experimenting on scrap material because the laminate, if properly done, will show every irregularity in the substrate, so you need to make sure that you do due diligence and get a pretty decent surface on which to glue.

Dave
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post #29 of 107 Old 04-15-2014, 09:53 PM
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When I have done curved pieces I always have used thin pieces and curve around a base.
With what you have I would take a belt sander to it.
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post #30 of 107 Old 04-16-2014, 03:16 AM
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I have a general question that I would like to ask you woodworking guys as I am totally new to this...

When it comes to measuring and marking the cutting lines on various pieces of wood, do you just use a tape measure and trust your freehand marking skills by the line on the tape measure? I am having trouble marking accurate, repeated lines using a tape measure. Is there a better way to ensure that you mark the same lines multiple times?

Also, I am having trouble cutting exact sized panels, which I believe is also a product of not marking exact lines. Do you guys cut with the blade right on the line?
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