CYCLOPS....a new LTD02 design - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 140 Old 04-25-2014, 09:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Hello All,
I contacted John in hopes he could help me design a "thin" Marty cube to fit in my small HT. That was not possible in order to meet the needs of reference level and 18ish hz. So we got to talking and came up with the Cyclops! I ordered 2 SI 18's after seeing they were possibly going to be discontinued. I also ordered the iNuke 3000 and all the accessories. Originally I planned on 2 Marty cubes but did not want t lose over 9 inches in my HT in order to fit them behind the screen. So here's the plan:





I will upload a cut sheet soon and document the build (my first ever) here. Here's to a perfect fit in my HT!!!! Thanks to LTD02 for all of his help!!! Here we go!!!
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post #2 of 140 Old 04-25-2014, 09:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Cut list for those interested. This is for 2 boxes NOT 1. Divide in half for 1 box.

3 sheets 3/4" MDF 4'x8'
1 sheet 3/4" birch 2'x2'
5 1x2s for bracing

4x 24" by 48" fronts and backs
2x 22 1/2" by 14 1/2" Sides
2x 18 3/4" by 14 1/2" Sides
4x 48" by 14 1/2" tops and bottoms
2x 38" by 14 1/2" port tops
2x 3" by 47 1/4" port supports
2x 46 1/2" by 18 3/4" baffles
3x 18 3/4" by 13 3/4" braces (the birch is used for the last brace)
1x 18 3/4" by 13 3/4" birch brace. The braces were 2" squares that were cut out.

Use the 1"x2" to brace it as much as possible. Assemble as per pictures below. More to come!
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post #3 of 140 Old 04-25-2014, 09:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Both are in place and incredible.

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post #4 of 140 Old 04-25-2014, 09:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Reserved
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post #5 of 140 Old 04-25-2014, 09:51 PM
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Oooo I quite like this. Are there any graphs with the Martycube overlayed?
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post #6 of 140 Old 04-25-2014, 10:21 PM
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So was 16'' the most shallow design possible or was that just how big your area is behind your screen? I'm looking to build something similar but wanted to go with the absolute skinniest design possible. Not sure if ported has to be deeper than sealed or not but these Marty's sure do rock. I'm sure you are going to enjoy them!
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post #7 of 140 Old 04-25-2014, 11:15 PM
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Nice! I like how you ported the cabinet out the side, looks familiar smile.gif
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post #8 of 140 Old 04-26-2014, 04:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronlinkous View Post

Oooo I quite like this. Are there any graphs with the Martycube overlayed?

I too, wouldn't mind seeing a full-size Marty and MartyCube (w/ same driver and power, of course) overlaid on the Cyclops graph...if someone is able to accommodate...biggrin.gif
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post #9 of 140 Old 04-26-2014, 05:46 AM
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It can be done in winisd or unibox fairly easily if you'd like to try. I'd do it but I'm on my phone.

My youtube channel: Impulse Audio
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post #10 of 140 Old 04-26-2014, 07:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uopdrmark View Post

So was 16'' the most shallow design possible or was that just how big your area is behind your screen? I'm looking to build something similar but wanted to go with the absolute skinniest design possible. Not sure if ported has to be deeper than sealed or not but these Marty's sure do rock. I'm sure you are going to enjoy them!

I was trying to save some room in my HT and want all the speakers behind the screen and hidden. I am saving 8" over the cube with similar performance.
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post #11 of 140 Old 04-26-2014, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

It can be done in winisd or unibox fairly easily if you'd like to try. I'd do it but I'm on my phone.

Ok, ok, tux...I know, it's time I started doing this "stuff" myself. wink.gif
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post #12 of 140 Old 04-26-2014, 08:47 AM
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EDIT: The cab isn't quite a full 8 cubic feet. My calculations were off by about the width of the panels, so internal volume is closer to 7 cubic feet (which would be around 6.66 cubic feet or so net after driver and bracing). No big deal. Tuning frequency will be about 1hz higher than target and in some cases a little over a db of output or so will be lost on the low corner. A revised version of the Cyclops was created and is called the Cyclops 18. It would be the recommended cab for the UM18 driver.


The revised cab is the same but overall depth is 18" instead of 16". The cab can be found here:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...e-ps-18-a.html




thin green line - full size Martysub! is ~11 cf tuned to ~17hz
heavy green line - CYCLʘPS!, ~6.66 cf tuned to ~18hz (pretty similar performance as the so called mini-marty)
red line - Martycube!, ~4.75 cf tuned to ~21hz

he had the space to go wide. I'm not sure how much narrower it can get. if too thin, it might rock/vibrate too much. this one is almost as big as a full size marty, so it shouldn't be going anywhere.

maybe there is an option where a sub could be made that has a hollow bottom chamber that can be filled with sand. that might allow for something very shallow, such as what ever the limits of the driver allow for, perhaps ~12" or so?

another option for folks looking for shallow depth is the plasmad pocket sub:

https://www.avsforum.com/t/1493647/th...ad-pocket-sub/

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Last edited by LTD02; 06-29-2016 at 10:22 AM.
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post #13 of 140 Old 04-26-2014, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post



thin green line - full size Martysub! is ~11 cf tuned to ~17hz
heavy green line - CYCLʘPS!, ~8 cf tuned to ~17hz (pretty much the same performance as the so called mini-marty)
red line - Martycube!, ~4.75 cf tuned to ~21hz

he had the space to go wide. I'm not sure how much narrower it can get. if too thin, it might rock/vibrate too much. this one is almost as big as a full size marty, so it shouldn't be going anywhere.

maybe there is an option where a sub could be made that has a hollow bottom chamber that can be filled with sand. that might allow for something very shallow, such as what ever the limits of the driver allow for, perhaps ~12" or so?

another option for folks looking for shallow depth is the plasmad pocket sub:

https://www.avsforum.com/t/1493647/the-plasmad-pocket-sub/

This is great. I've been eying these marty builds for some time.
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post #14 of 140 Old 04-26-2014, 08:54 AM
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It probably won't rock back and forth. The side firing one I just glued up doesn't move at all, but I haven't put a full 1000 watts to it yet. I was talking with MTG90 about that and he reminded me that the woofer isn't moving as much down around tuning versus a sealed box, so maybe the box won't rock at all.
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post #15 of 140 Old 04-26-2014, 09:00 AM
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thanks erich. with 1100 watts, the driver is still moving to full excursion around 30hz or so (even in a ported cab).

something like this would allow for a really shallow design that is still rather solid. 3" of empty chamber at the top.

sub could be about as thin as the driver allows for. 4 feet wide x 1 foot deep x 3" high = approx. 1 cubic foot of sand. that is roughly 100 pounds of added weight, which should be sufficient.


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post #16 of 140 Old 04-26-2014, 09:25 AM
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another option for folks might be something like this.

36" square x 18" deep.

single slot with an effective length of about 36" (the slot port panel itself would be about 36" - 0.75" - 3" = 32.25" long, gives a tune of ~17hz.

net internal volume is about 10 c.f., so performance would be just a hair different from the full size martysub! shown above.

not quite as cut sheet friendly as the standard CYCLʘPS! larger than the stonehenge and tuned lower, smaller than jbrown's and tuned a hair higher.


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post #17 of 140 Old 04-26-2014, 09:27 AM
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and one for the o.p.


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post #18 of 140 Old 04-26-2014, 09:52 AM
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post #19 of 140 Old 04-26-2014, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

another option for folks might be something like this.

36" square x 18" deep.

single slot with an effective length of about 36" (the slot port panel itself would be about 36" - 0.75" - 3" = 32.25" long, gives a tune of ~17hz.

net internal volume is about 10 c.f., so performance would be just a hair different from the full size martysub! shown above.

not quite as cut sheet friendly as the standard CYCLʘPS! larger than the stonehenge and tuned lower, smaller than jbrown's and tuned a hair higher.


LTD02,

That's pretty much like the side firing one I posted a few weeks ago.

https://www.avsforum.com/t/1379949/more-flat-pack-kits-coming/720#post_24569845





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post #20 of 140 Old 04-26-2014, 10:17 AM
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LTD02,

That's pretty much like the side firing one I posted a few weeks ago.

https://www.avsforum.com/t/1379949/more-flat-pack-kits-coming/720#post_24569845






Which is pretty much exactly like what LTD designed for me last year when he came up with the design for my build smile.gif

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post #21 of 140 Old 04-26-2014, 10:38 AM
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Which is pretty much exactly like what LTD designed for me last year when he came up with the design for my build smile.gif


Which is pretty much like what NeoDan designed for me years ago when he came up with the design for my build smile.gif





Okay, maybe not, but it sounded funny. biggrin.gif
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post #22 of 140 Old 04-26-2014, 10:39 AM
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Which is pretty much like what NeoDan designed for me years ago when he came up with the design for my build smile.gif





Okay, maybe not, but it sounded funny. biggrin.gif

haha.....LOL

I like your build by the way smile.gif
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post #23 of 140 Old 04-26-2014, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

thanks erich. with 1100 watts, the driver is still moving to full excursion around 30hz or so (even in a ported cab).

something like this would allow for a really shallow design that is still rather solid. 3" of empty chamber at the top.

sub could be about as thin as the driver allows for. 4 feet wide x 1 foot deep x 3" high = approx. 1 cubic foot of sand. that is roughly 100 pounds of added weight, which should be sufficient.



This is what I've been trying to come up with for awhile! I just ordered 4 UXL-18's for the drivers which I was thinking of placing at 1/4 spacing like Jbrown did for a single bass array. If I do that though I'll have to place my L/R mains along the inside edges of the sounds closer to the center or they would be behind the frame of my screen. How bad would it be if I slide the subs slightly closer to the center to get my mains on the outer edges? I'm probably talking 6" off perfect 1/4 spacing to do this on a 20' wall.
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post #24 of 140 Old 04-26-2014, 04:23 PM
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Also, what software do you guys use to make the drawings of the sub?
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post #25 of 140 Old 04-26-2014, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

LTD02,

That's pretty much like the side firing one I posted a few weeks ago.

https://www.avsforum.com/t/1379949/more-flat-pack-kits-coming/720#post_24569845





what driver/woofer used in that SEOS tower?
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post #26 of 140 Old 04-27-2014, 04:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Update: 2 boxes are complete! I will update soon but just for home.
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post #27 of 140 Old 04-27-2014, 04:52 PM
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This is what I've been trying to come up with for awhile! I just ordered 4 UXL-18's for the drivers which I was thinking of placing at 1/4 spacing like Jbrown did for a single bass array. If I do that though I'll have to place my L/R mains along the inside edges of the sounds closer to the center or they would be behind the frame of my screen. How bad would it be if I slide the subs slightly closer to the center to get my mains on the outer edges? I'm probably talking 6" off perfect 1/4 spacing to do this on a 20' wall.

Are UXL-18's back in stock?
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post #28 of 140 Old 04-27-2014, 05:03 PM
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LTD02,

That's pretty much like the side firing one I posted a few weeks ago.

https://www.avsforum.com/t/1379949/more-flat-pack-kits-coming/720#post_24569845



I'd like to add a couple of 18s to the front of my room but only have 18" under my screen.
Would this work laying down like the pic driver facing up, port pointed into the room?

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...-bar-game.htmlThe "WAF" - Open Concept Theater / Bar / Game
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post #29 of 140 Old 04-27-2014, 05:12 PM
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Update: 2 boxes are complete! I will update soon but just for home.

Can't wait to see some pictures!
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post #30 of 140 Old 04-27-2014, 05:38 PM
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"Okay, maybe not, but it sounded funny."

LOL. that was hilarious. many of these designs are just repeats even if independently developed.** i had long forgotten about the neodan easy button series when i threw together the plan for marty that became the martysub!, but it is very similar to what neodan designed years before. i say if it is a good idea just roll with it and give credit to the extent that it can be given.

** i'm actually amazed at how similar many of the designs and concepts that we have discussed in recent years with the late zilch, parham, and others as well as in the "rallying" thread and others are to design concepts first introduced 50 or more years ago.


"How bad would it be if I slide the subs slightly closer to the center to get my mains on the outer edges? I'm probably talking 6" off perfect 1/4 spacing to do this on a 20' wall."

the 1/4 distance idea is based minimizing room mode excitation. place your subs on the pic. draw a line from the bottom to the "bouncing curve". add them together keeping the "sign" correct +/-. if you get a large value, you will be exciting that mode. if you get zero, you have no excitement of that mode.

example, at 25 and 75 placement. first order modes are excited, but cancel out.
second order modes, not excited.
third order mode, excited, but cancelled out.
four order mode is excited. but, fourth order modes tend to be fairly weak anyways, so not a big deal.

turn the plot 90 degrees for height modes. and of course the same applies for length modes.

these are only for the "axial" modes. they tend to be the worst offenders, but not always.

here is where they occur.



6" is not a big deal.

the drawing program that i use is microsoft word. that is why mine don't look all snazzy compared to some of the really slick 3d renders other folks post up.

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