The Dtsdig Curvy-Cab Tux-1099 build!! - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 771 Old 07-09-2014, 09:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by aaronlinkous View Post
Hardboard like I used is back by the tile kind of. Not in the big shelves with all the other wood.
I used hardboard like yours for my sub builds and it worked well. Not exactly easy to bend, but I didn't have to worry about it after it was glued either. I'm just not as sure about it for these. Finding something easier to bend would certainly make my life easier.
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post #62 of 771 Old 07-12-2014, 05:44 PM - Thread Starter
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The Dtsdig Curvy-Cab Tux-1099 build!!

Some good news here, Home Depot sells 1/8" hardboard for $9 a sheet. That means I'm back in the game to build the fronts after all.
In the meantime, I picked up one sheet yesterday so I can finish up the center. Pro tip: removing PL Premium really sucks.
I should have some time tomorrow to continue with the top layers.

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Last edited by dtsdig; 07-17-2014 at 09:17 AM.
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post #63 of 771 Old 07-13-2014, 06:36 AM
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Insanely nice build. These are gonna be really nice.
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post #64 of 771 Old 07-13-2014, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
removing PL Premium really sucks.
I keep a spray bottle of DeNatured Alcohol on hand as well as Mineral Spirits. I forget which cleans the adhesive off of hands better. But, spritz on hands and wipe on paper towel. Or spritz paper towel and wipe off of another object. Of course, peeling off and discarding cheap latex gloves is even easier.

Great looking build, so far!

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post #65 of 771 Old 07-13-2014, 07:15 AM
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nice really nice I assume this is center and LR will be curved on both sides?
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post #66 of 771 Old 07-13-2014, 03:42 PM - Thread Starter
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nice really nice I assume this is center and LR will be curved on both sides?
Yup, you got it. And thank you!
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I use paint thinner or something like that to remove PL Premium from my hands before I wash them with soap. It's your only chance.

I put a screw driver down in a small drip of that stuff, literally a drip onto ply. I could not remove the screwdriver without using a sledge hammer, and then the ply failed. I sanded off some of it with grinder but the PL will be on the handle forever. I should have just thrown it away, I think I wasted like an hour trying to save a $2 harbor freight screw driver. That stuff is strong.
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post #68 of 771 Old 07-13-2014, 08:32 PM - Thread Starter
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To clear up the confusion, the issue I had with the PL was that I had already installed one layer of this terrible underlayment ply and it didn't turn out good so I ripped it off. The plywood delaminated where it was adhered with the PL so I had to spend a couple of hours cleaning all of it off with a chisel and sandpaper.
I wear gloves anytime I work with that stuff.
I did make some progress today and got 4 layers of 1/8" hardboard installed. The process was kind of a train wreck because I wasn't setup properly with boards for the ratchet straps to pull against but hopefully it will turn out ok. It's kind of funny to me that doing one curved top panel has been more difficult than doing two curved panels on opposite sides of the box like on my subs. But, hey!....I'm learning.
On another note, I finished up the third crossover so now all 3 are ready to rock!
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post #69 of 771 Old 07-14-2014, 05:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Some photos from yesterday's building frenzy....




And three completed crossovers....



Hopefully tonight I will remove the straps and clamps and see how it all held up. If I have time, I'll attach the last layer. Once that is all set, I'll be trimming all 4 edges flush and then all I have to do is join this top/back/sides/braces assembly to the baffle/bottom assembly. My screw holes for the drivers are all set since yesterday too. I really hoped to have this done this past weekend but at least it's looking good for this week!
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Last edited by dtsdig; 07-17-2014 at 09:21 AM.
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post #70 of 771 Old 07-14-2014, 10:13 AM
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Looking good dtsdig! That's going to look really sweet in your setup. What's your plan to fit that on your existing equipment console? Or are you going to hang that above the TV?

I'm in the same boat here and will probably use tempered hardboard because that's what I can find easily. And it's cheap! One of the local home depots has 3/16” on sale for $9.00. Yesterday I glued up over a dozen test variations of scrap mdf, hdf, tempered, untempered, sanded, unsanded, etc. just to see how they compare. Later this week I'll rip them apart to see what works best. Did you do any prep to your hardboard before glue up? It looks like the tempered 1/8” hdf with one rough side.
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post #71 of 771 Old 07-14-2014, 10:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Boxozaxu View Post
Looking good dtsdig! That's going to look really sweet in your setup. What's your plan to fit that on your existing equipment console? Or are you going to hang that above the TV?

I'm in the same boat here and will probably use tempered hardboard because that's what I can find easily. And it's cheap! One of the local home depots has 3/16” on sale for $9.00. Yesterday I glued up over a dozen test variations of scrap mdf, hdf, tempered, untempered, sanded, unsanded, etc. just to see how they compare. Later this week I'll rip them apart to see what works best. Did you do any prep to your hardboard before glue up? It looks like the tempered 1/8” hdf with one rough side.
Yeah, I think hardboard is the way to go after looking into many options over the past week. My sub builds used 3/16" and that worked out fine. For this somewhat smaller build, I was really happy to see that home depot carries 1/8" hardboard; rough on one side, like you said. It is very pliable! No prep. I just used PL Premium to glue the first layer to the frame and braces. After that, I used Titebond II with a 4" foam roller and covered the rough side of each piece thoroughly.
As for where it's going to fit when it's done, it is going to stay on top of the TV stand that is currently in place! The footprint of this center is going to completely cover the top shelf of the stand, LOL. In fact, part of how I chose the curve radius was by measuring to see what will fit under the bottom lip of the TV bezel. The back edge of the speaker will be tucked under the edge of the TV. The TV is mounted on the wall and if I am seated, I have about 1.5" of clearance between the top of the center channel and the bottom edge of the TV screen. This is going to make my 52" TV look comically small, but I'm ok with that!!!
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post #72 of 771 Old 07-14-2014, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
Yeah, I think hardboard is the way to go after looking into many options over the past week. My sub builds used 3/16" and that worked out fine. For this somewhat smaller build, I was really happy to see that home depot carries 1/8" hardboard; rough on one side, like you said. It is very pliable! No prep. I just used PL Premium to glue the first layer to the frame and braces. After that, I used Titebond II with a 4" foam roller and covered the rough side of each piece thoroughly.
As for where it's going to fit when it's done, it is going to stay on top of the TV stand that is currently in place! The footprint of this center is going to completely cover the top shelf of the stand, LOL. In fact, part of how I chose the curve radius was by measuring to see what will fit under the bottom lip of the TV bezel. The back edge of the speaker will be tucked under the edge of the TV. The TV is mounted on the wall and if I am seated, I have about 1.5" of clearance between the top of the center channel and the bottom edge of the TV screen. This is going to make my 52" TV look comically small, but I'm ok with that!!!
Using PL Premium for the first time this coming weekend. Hopefully I won't have a permanent Vulcan salute on Monday.

We're not upgrading our sony 40" tv for a few more years so, yeah, a little bit silly looking here too.
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post #73 of 771 Old 07-14-2014, 12:13 PM
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Titebond III gives you 30 minutes of working time.
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post #74 of 771 Old 07-14-2014, 12:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Boxozaxu View Post
Using PL Premium for the first time this coming weekend. Hopefully I won't have a permanent Vulcan salute on Monday.

We're not upgrading our sony 40" tv for a few more years so, yeah, a little bit silly looking here too.
Dude, make SURE you use gloves with that stuff! And let the squeeze out just sit there and dry on it's own. It is much easier to remove it with a putty knife or razor after it's dry than to try and remove the smear marks from trying to clean up as you go. Other than that, it's great stuff. It's not necessary if your cuts are nice, but I use it for the extra hold power on the first curved panel.
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post #75 of 771 Old 07-14-2014, 01:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Titebond III gives you 30 minutes of working time.
Yep, and I sure could have used that extra time yesterday! I'm just finishing up the gallon of Titebond II I had from my sub builds last year. Almost gone!
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post #76 of 771 Old 07-15-2014, 04:22 PM
 
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Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
Yep, and I sure could have used that extra time yesterday! I'm just finishing up the gallon of Titebond II I had from my sub builds last year. Almost gone!
Put it on extra heavy gets you a couple more working minutes, or you can rebrush with a little more if you start running out of time.
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post #77 of 771 Old 07-15-2014, 04:42 PM - Thread Starter
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The fifth layer went on this morning. Tomorrow afternoon I'll pull the straps off and see if this is going to work out! 😁

I am super excited to hear this thing! I've been staring at the baffles for the fronts sitting in my living room for 2 or 3 months now along with a pile of Delta 10B woofers. It's maddening!
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post #78 of 771 Old 07-15-2014, 05:36 PM
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Diluting Titebond glue with 5% water doubles the working time and does not reduce its strength.
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Last edited by Boxozaxu; 07-16-2014 at 11:00 AM.
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post #79 of 771 Old 07-15-2014, 06:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Diluting Titebond glue with 5% water doubles the working time and does not reduce it's strength.
That's a great tip, man! Thanks!
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post #80 of 771 Old 07-16-2014, 08:58 PM
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I can't see any pictures... All I get is this...
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If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #81 of 771 Old 07-17-2014, 04:12 AM - Thread Starter
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I can't see any pictures... All I get is this...
Yep, I'm waiting to hear back from photobucket support.
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post #82 of 771 Old 07-17-2014, 09:24 AM - Thread Starter
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I can't see any pictures... All I get is this...
Photos are fixed. I hate photobucket so I'm done with them! Switched to Minus, no limitations!
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post #83 of 771 Old 07-17-2014, 09:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Got the 5th layer on and it turned out alright. Admittedly, it did not go as smoothly as my subs did. I think building the fronts will go easier because they'll have curves on both sides. After trimming, these will be fine though.




I think trimming will get done tomorrow and then the whole thing can get put together.
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post #84 of 771 Old 07-18-2014, 05:16 AM - Thread Starter
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I got some trimming done last night. I was glad to see that once the nasty overhanging edges were out of the way, the laminated layers looked nice and tight. I took a jig saw to the side overhangs and the back and for the front used my track saw. The front edge where the box meets the back of the baffle is critical so I took a fair amount of time setting up for that cut.



Using the track saw here was the way to go! The cut turned out nicely and all I needed to do was sand for a while to bring the edge in just a bit further. This pic was just after the cut and you can see there is a small gap left between the side and the baffle.





I didn't think I would have time for it last night, but once I got that front edge perfect, I proceeded to THE GLUE-UP!





Tonight I'll get all edges flush trimmed and get this sucker loaded!!!!!
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post #85 of 771 Old 07-18-2014, 05:29 AM
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Looking great!
I'm sure that track saw makes speaker cabs a breeze... So I looked up what one might cost.... I'll have to stick with a circular saw against a straightedge.
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post #86 of 771 Old 07-18-2014, 05:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Looking great!
I'm sure that track saw makes speaker cabs a breeze... So I looked up what one might cost.... I'll have to stick with a circular saw against a straightedge.
Thank you!
Yeah, the track saw is fantastic! This was my first real project with it and between that and the cutting table setup I made, all the cuts were so easy. Huge time saver! $400 gets you the Makita with a 55" track. Around the time I bought it, a guy on my local craigslist had another 55" track new in the box that I got for $45 (compared to $80-90 new) so I can rip a full sheet length wise when I need to. I highly recommend it!
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post #87 of 771 Old 07-18-2014, 05:43 AM
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Yeah I just checked CL after posting. Nadda
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post #88 of 771 Old 07-18-2014, 06:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah I just checked CL after posting. Nadda
I keep forgetting that you are local. I'll have to add you to the list of potential participants if we ever put together our own little get together!
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post #89 of 771 Old 07-18-2014, 06:29 AM
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I keep forgetting that you are local. I'll have to add you to the list of potential participants if we ever put together our own little get together!
Yes most definitely
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post #90 of 771 Old 07-18-2014, 06:42 AM
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Photos are fixed. I hate photobucket so I'm done with them! Switched to Minus, no limitations!
I guess Minus is blocked from work for me.
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