The Dtsdig Curvy-Cab Tux-1099 build!! - Page 6 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #151 of 771 Old 07-31-2014, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert Jones II View Post
SquareRoot(60 - 24) = 6. Pretty simple really.

My notes are kind of all over the place, but keep in mind that 6 sheets covers LCR + Surrounds + Subs.

Here's a rough cut sheet for the LCRs:
(A) Front/Back (1 each speaker, 3 total)
(B) Sides (2 each speaker, 6 total)
(C) Top/Bottom/Bracing (4 each speaker, 12 total) - top + bottom + 2 middle bracing pieces



So, that's two sheets for the LCRs. Plus one sheet for two surrounds. Plus two sheets for two subs. That's five. Add one sheet for when I screw something up and that's six.
I like your cut sheet is this original dimensions of 15.25deep. so the A= 36.25x12.5, B= 36.25x13, C=13x11, Can you draw it with all 3 Apieces on one sheet and just put 3 C pieces on the end of the sheet with the Bpieces where the A piece was. That would save you 1/2 sheet. If so can you putthat post over at my build thread I think that is how I want to cut and do nothave any way to draw that myself. What did you use?
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...n-nab-3-a.html
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post #152 of 771 Old 07-31-2014, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post
I like your cut sheet is this original dimensions of 15.25deep. so the A= 36.25x12.5, B= 36.25x13, C=13x11, Can you draw it with all 3 Apieces on one sheet and just put 3 C pieces on the end of the sheet with the Bpieces where the A piece was. That would save you 1/2 sheet. If so can you putthat post over at my build thread I think that is how I want to cut and do nothave any way to draw that myself. What did you use?
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...n-nab-3-a.html
A = 36.25" x 12"
B = 36.25" x 13"
C = 13" x 11"
Outside Dimensions: 12.5" wide x 14.5" deep x 36.25" tall.

The attached mockups were both done in Google Sketchup. It's the only tool that I have that allows me to make quick adjustments. FYI: The baffles cutouts are not to scale here... I just through them together for a quick preview.
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post #153 of 771 Old 08-08-2014, 02:01 PM
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Question

Dtsdig,

I was looking for the build thread for your SI 18s last night... I could swear I had seen it a while back but had no luck finding it; was it posted on a different forum?

System Info:
Display - Panasonic TC-P55VT50
Receiver - Onkyo TX-NR809
Blu-Ray Player - Pioneer BDP-320
Front - Pioneer SP-FS51LR (with modified pedestal bases)
Center - Pioneer SP-C21
Surround & Surround Back - Pioneer SP-SS41LR (the 'SS' is for custom boxes)
Subwoofer - Eclipse 88100DVC (x2),...
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post #154 of 771 Old 12-29-2014, 08:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Frederick View Post
Dtsdig,

I was looking for the build thread for your SI 18s last night... I could swear I had seen it a while back but had no luck finding it; was it posted on a different forum?
Wow, I guess I completely missed your question! Sorry about that! If you're still interested, my curved subs build is here:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/#/forumsite/20818/topics/67838?page=1
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post #155 of 771 Old 12-29-2014, 08:32 PM - Thread Starter
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The Dtsdig Curvy-Cab Tux-1099 build!!

Hey everybody, I am finally building my front pair! I've been looking forward to the holiday break forever and it's awesome to be working on these at last! First step, as always, find a radius:




The track saw setup:
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post #156 of 771 Old 12-29-2014, 09:02 PM - Thread Starter
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The trickiest part this time around was finding an effective way to mirror the radius that I cut on one side to the other side. It took some thought but what I did was piece together the first radius cut setup but with everything reversed, even using the scrap piece that was cut off. I spent a while measure and making sure everything was exact before ripping through the other side of the template board.


This is how it will look:



These are going to be towers that will be about 49-50" tall with an empty bottom section around 1 cu ft.

Next up was to create 16 copies from that template. Ouch. Today was the messy day.
Trim, Route, Repeat: The Edge of Overkill
Mount up the template to a board, trim the fat with a jigsaw, then route the edges. I spent about 3 hours repeating these steps.






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post #157 of 771 Old 12-29-2014, 09:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Up until this point, I had thought that I was going to have just 5 "shelves" for each cabinet. The 4 that are required for any 1099 build and then one more for the bottom of the tower compartment. After some more thought, Oops, I did it again!
Complete overkill:




That's about right! I figured that the more, the merrier. Also, the extra shelves will give me much more substance to clamp the curved layers to. All in, these will be about 1 and 3/4 sheets of MDF (not including Erich's baffles) and the curved layers will take 5 sheets of 1/8" hardboard.
The next steps will be to cut and glue up the extensions for the bottom of the baffles and cut backbones for the cabs. I think I might try making dados for the shelves to fit into on the backbone panels, but we'll see tomorrow!


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post #158 of 771 Old 12-29-2014, 09:38 PM
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post #159 of 771 Old 01-01-2015, 06:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Some more updates here. First off, I got the baffle extensions cut, trimmed up and glued to the baffles. Next, after some fussing with angles and widths, I got the backbone panels cut and went ahead with the glue up of the back panel to the ribs/tops/bottoms. I had to spend quite a while with the two baffles and the backbone pieces all clamped side by side so that I could draw outlines of where every rib was going to be on the baffle side and the back panel. This turned out pretty good, but was kind of a pain. Some pics:






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post #160 of 771 Old 01-01-2015, 06:32 PM - Thread Starter
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I also had an epiphany tonight around how I was planning to handle the five layers of curved materials where they meet the baffle. It was going to be complicated and lots of work. Tonight I figured out that I can just cut the baffle narrower with angles to match the where they meet the front edges of the ribs. That way, I'll be able to attach the baffles right away and then just bend all five layers around the baffles and the backbones. Trim them up and done!


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post #161 of 771 Old 01-02-2015, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
I also had an epiphany tonight around how I was planning to handle the five layers of curved materials where they meet the baffle. It was going to be complicated and lots of work. Tonight I figured out that I can just cut the baffle narrower with angles to match the where they meet the front edges of the ribs. That way, I'll be able to attach the baffles right away and then just bend all five layers around the baffles and the backbones. Trim them up and done!
Looking really good. I love the look of precisely cut MDF in the morning!

I attached the sides the same way in my build and I think it was the easiest way to handle it. I'm sure you already thought this out but just in case: you might not be able to fit your flush trimming jig between the jutting curved sides on that narrow rear panel if you glue up both sides at the same time.

For me, I was forced to glue up one curved side, flush trim it and then do the other side so I didn't run into this problem but with the much much larger 1099s I know you can glue up both sides at the same time.

Can't wait for you to finish. It's going to look really nice with the rest of your setup!

Last edited by Boxozaxu; 01-02-2015 at 11:48 AM.
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post #162 of 771 Old 01-02-2015, 12:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Boxozaxu View Post
Looking really good. I love the look of precisely cut MDF in the morning!

I attached the sides the same way in my build and I think it was the easiest way to handle it. I'm sure you already thought this out but just in case: you might not be able to fit your flush trimming jig between the jutting curved sides on that narrow rear panel if you glue up both sides at the same time.

For me, I was forced to glue up one curved side, flush trim it and then do the other side so I didn't run into this problem but with the much much larger 1099s I know you can glue up both sides at the same time.

Can't wait for you to finish. It's going to look really nice with the rest of your [RAW MDF!!! ] setup!
Edited your last statement ^^^



Thanks! That's a great point about routing the back panels with the router jig. I hadn't thought of that. I'm still going to glue up both sides at once but maybe I'll have to reduce the footprint of the router jig base to fit between. The back panel is under 7" wide, so it is definitely a concern.
As for the front, I had originally thought I was going to glue up 3 layers on both sides and then trim the front edges flush, then attach the baffle, then glue up 2 more layers on each side and then trim again. See my highly accurate, precision CAD drawing below:

[IMG][/IMG]

The reason I thought I had to do it this way was because I didn't think I had enough extra width on the baffle to trim off and do all five layers the much more simple way as is shown in my computer simulated drawing below:

[IMG][/IMG]

Realizing that I could just shave the baffle right from the get go, glue the fronts of all the shelves right to it and then bend all 5 side layers around it means that I won't need to add any supports between the spans of each shelf to attach the curved layers to! This saves hours of measuring, cutting and gluing in supports between all 8 shelves. Huge time savings. This makes the overall assembly design identical to my curved subs.
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post #163 of 771 Old 01-02-2015, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
Edited your last statement ^^^

That's too funny. You might start a new raw MDF trend. I finally got some veneer on my speakers and I should update my thread. I've used contact cement in the past and now that I've used the heat lock glue I can definitely say there are pros and cons to both methods depending on the size and shape of speaker.

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Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
Realizing that I could just shave the baffle right from the get go, glue the fronts of all the shelves right to it and then bend all 5 side layers around it means that I won't need to add any supports between the spans of each shelf to attach the curved layers to! This saves hours of measuring, cutting and gluing in supports between all 8 shelves. Huge time savings. This makes the overall assembly design identical to my curved subs.
I wouldn't have wanted to attempt that myself. Probably why you kept subconsciously looking for another solution! Funny how the mind works.
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post #164 of 771 Old 01-02-2015, 09:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Boxozaxu View Post
That's too funny. You might start a new raw MDF trend. I finally got some veneer on my speakers and I should update my thread. I've used contact cement in the past and now that I've used the heat lock glue I can definitely say there are pros and cons to both methods depending on the size and shape of speaker.
I wouldn't have wanted to attempt that myself. Probably why you kept subconsciously looking for another solution! Funny how the mind works.
Yes, please update your thread! I'd like to see the results and hear your thoughts about the pros and cons you mentioned. My wife and I spent a couple hours looking at veneers online recently and I can't figure out what way to go.

And yes, for the current project, I'm glad another solution presented itself too. I know I could do what I had sketched out, it just would have taken way longer.
Also, I seriously considered doing dados in the back panel, but I'm very impatient with this build and didn't want to spend any time creating router jigs.
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post #165 of 771 Old 01-03-2015, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
Edited your last statement ^^^



Thanks! That's a great point about routing the back panels with the router jig. I hadn't thought of that. I'm still going to glue up both sides at once but maybe I'll have to reduce the footprint of the router jig base to fit between. The back panel is under 7" wide, so it is definitely a concern.
As for the front, I had originally thought I was going to glue up 3 layers on both sides and then trim the front edges flush, then attach the baffle, then glue up 2 more layers on each side and then trim again. See my highly accurate, precision CAD drawing below:

[IMG][/IMG]

The reason I thought I had to do it this way was because I didn't think I had enough extra width on the baffle to trim off and do all five layers the much more simple way as is shown in my computer simulated drawing below:

[IMG][/IMG]

Realizing that I could just shave the baffle right from the get go, glue the fronts of all the shelves right to it and then bend all 5 side layers around it means that I won't need to add any supports between the spans of each shelf to attach the curved layers to! This saves hours of measuring, cutting and gluing in supports between all 8 shelves. Huge time savings. This makes the overall assembly design identical to my curved subs.

This is exactly why I built mine in this fashion. Of course, I didn't take note of the extra airspace that got freed up by doing it all on the outside perimeter until I was about to put poly fill in. Ended up having to rough cut some blocks of wood and just glued them the the back side to take up the extra room.
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post #166 of 771 Old 01-03-2015, 08:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Hooray for more updates! First things first...I really should have bought one of these years ago! Best thing ever to have it be 20 degrees outside but 65 in the garage. I worked with a t-shirt and a long sleeve on and got to the point where I was sweating.


Next, I trimmed the edges of the baffles to match the angles of the sides and got both baffles glues up to their cabinets.



I'm really digging the shape. Can't wait to get these done!



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Those torpedo heaters are the best. Instant heat anywhere you want. Being cold just sucks. Like always.
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post #168 of 771 Old 01-04-2015, 11:13 AM
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Nice call on the heater. I'm blaming the cold on my completely botched double baffle I cut yesterday. I should spend more time thinking about how to heat my garage instead of building jigs.

You're making some good progress. When do you think you'll finish?
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post #169 of 771 Old 01-04-2015, 06:23 PM - Thread Starter
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The Dtsdig Curvy-Cab Tux-1099 build!!

It depends on if I make a plan to veneer these right away or wait until summer and finally finish the entire system all at once. All in all, progress has been pretty steady. I'm guessing they'll be in my living room being put to use (raw MDF) inside of 3 weeks. Not bad!
Today was another good day. I ripped all the hardboard panels which was a piece of cake. I cut the first sheet on its own and then stacked up the other 4 sheets, clamped them together and ripped them all at once. I love my track saw! 20 panels; they're all perfectly identical, just stacked up messily in the pic.


I was going to start gluing up side panels today but thought it would be smart to get the crossovers installed and wired up while the cabinets were still wide open. I'm really glad I did because with how close the shelves are, I would have had a terrible time trying to drill holes to run wires through once the sides were on. So to finish the day, the crossovers are completely wired up.





Now I'm ready to start gluing side panels!

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post #170 of 771 Old 01-04-2015, 06:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Those torpedo heaters are the best. Instant heat anywhere you want. Being cold just sucks. Like always.
The one I got is a 75k BTU unit that was $200. They're hard to find this far into winter but one of the local tractor supply stores still had a few. With the weather in the high 40's today, I could only run it for ten minutes or so at a time otherwise I was sweating! It's such a silly thing, but having heat out there is a total game changer for me. I do a fair bit of car work as well and this will make winter time car work infinitely better.
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post #171 of 771 Old 01-04-2015, 07:40 PM
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DTS, you might be surprised but I really doubt you'll need that many layers. The curve is exponentially under stronger. I only have 2 layers of 3/16" hardboard per side and I get zero vibrations.
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post #172 of 771 Old 01-05-2015, 06:01 AM - Thread Starter
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DTS, you might be surprised but I really doubt you'll need that many layers. The curve is exponentially under stronger. I only have 2 layers of 3/16" hardboard per side and I get zero vibrations.
I'm not surprised and I know that you're correct, but overkill is overkill. . I didn't "need" to make all of the extra shelves and bracing in these either. I used 4 layers of the 3/16" hardboard on each side of my subs and I'm using 1/8" for these. My center channel got five layers, so these will too.

Besides, once the first layer is attached, the rest is easy. I just get into a routine of pulling off the ratchet straps from the previous day's work and adding the next layer on for about a week.
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post #173 of 771 Old 01-05-2015, 04:01 PM
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DTS, great build. I just finished a set of curved RF7ii speakers for a friend. I'll have to try your router cut of the curved braces next time. I just made a pattern and then jigsaw and flush trimmed like you did. I ran some vertical bracing in the middle of the curved bracing to reduce the gap between the bracing. I used two layers of 3/8" bendable plywood ($30 a sheet here) and it bends very easily. No need to clamp as you go just us PL premium on all the bracing and start at front and it bends very easily while you finish nail or staple.

I use a stop strip at the front edge to butt the ply to then work toward back. I sand/cut flush with back. I put a thick layer of Titebond glue between the two sheets of ply then lay down some really cheap (Dollar Tree) drawer liner then more glue to attach to top ply then more nails. I veneer the sides then attach solid wood trim to the front edge where the stop strip was located. Works pretty well.

Build looks great and should sound awesome!!!! Great job
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post #174 of 771 Old 01-05-2015, 05:31 PM - Thread Starter
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DTS, great build. I just finished a set of curved RF7ii speakers for a friend. I'll have to try your router cut of the curved braces next time. I just made a pattern and then jigsaw and flush trimmed like you did. I ran some vertical bracing in the middle of the curved bracing to reduce the gap between the bracing. I used two layers of 3/8" bendable plywood ($30 a sheet here) and it bends very easily. No need to clamp as you go just us PL premium on all the bracing and start at front and it bends very easily while you finish nail or staple.

I use a stop strip at the front edge to butt the ply to then work toward back. I sand/cut flush with back. I put a thick layer of Titebond glue between the two sheets of ply then lay down some really cheap (Dollar Tree) drawer liner then more glue to attach to top ply then more nails. I veneer the sides then attach solid wood trim to the front edge where the stop strip was located. Works pretty well.

Build looks great and should sound awesome!!!! Great job
That sounds like a good method and I did check out your build. It looks super clean. Nice job!

Thanks for the compliments!

On a side note, I'm curious to see where the AVR ends up setting the crossovers when I run Audyssey, not that I will leave them crossed low, but with all the extra volume over the original volume, who knows!
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post #175 of 771 Old 01-06-2015, 11:01 AM
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Sweet build dts! I'm looking forward to your final results
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post #176 of 771 Old 01-07-2015, 01:29 PM - Thread Starter
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It looks like I'll be starting to glue up the first layers of side panels tonight! I hope to have some new pics up tomorrow. It's -18F here with the wind chill, so I am hoping to get set up in the house for this process!
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-18f!

Glad you have that heater ....
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post #178 of 771 Old 01-07-2015, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
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-18f!

Glad you have that heater ....
Yeah! So no actual speaker work was done tonight except for a dry run with some ratchet straps and a couple of side panels...no glue. I forgot to stop at HD for PL premium on my way home.
But, I did get a set of snow tires put on my wife's car in the garage tonight and after 15 minutes with the heater on, I took off my hat, my heavy coat and unzipped my hoodie. That thing rocks!
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post #179 of 771 Old 01-07-2015, 08:38 PM
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Whats the advantage of the PL Premium over regular Titebond woodglue? Is it supposed to be stronger? Supposedly, a joint properly formed with woodglue is supposed to be stronger than the wood itself.
Michael Rodriguez is offline  
post #180 of 771 Old 01-07-2015, 08:39 PM
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Great progress so far They are going to be awesome!
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