The Dtsdig Curvy-Cab Tux-1099 build!! - Page 8 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #211 of 771 Old 01-16-2015, 11:24 AM
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Yeah, I think woodglue can reactivate when you put new woodglue on it right? I've noticed with an outdoor project that I did that when it got wet, the glue reactivated.
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post #212 of 771 Old 01-16-2015, 11:25 AM
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I used staples at all the braces and then shrink wrapped it while it dried. Then before the next layer, sanded it all diwn and glued and shrink wrapped it.
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post #213 of 771 Old 01-16-2015, 11:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, I think woodglue can reactivate when you put new woodglue on it right? I've noticed with an outdoor project that I did that when it got wet, the glue reactivated.
Yes, I believe you're correct, except here I will be using Titebond II where PL Premium was, so no-go with the reactivation.
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post #214 of 771 Old 01-16-2015, 11:48 AM
 
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Wood glue dries, cracks, leaks. It's great on a perfect wood on wood bond. Not so good on filling gaps and keeping them air tight. How about a creamier construction adhesive with a faster cure time as an alternative in between the two?
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post #215 of 771 Old 01-16-2015, 12:04 PM
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That's funny, I've never heard of woodglue cracking.
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post #216 of 771 Old 01-16-2015, 12:15 PM
 
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Yeah with age it dries out. All my furniture has it. Very common. Not a problem for holding a wood joint, but possibly if you want air tight sealer. It's the wrong stuff.
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post #217 of 771 Old 01-16-2015, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll be sealing the joints with something else once the gluing is done, no worries there. Hell, I could even use PL for that!
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post #218 of 771 Old 01-16-2015, 11:44 PM
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So what's stopping you from bending it from one end a little at a time and putting a brad nail in it every 1 1/2" or so? You're going to cover it with veneer anyways right?
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post #219 of 771 Old 01-17-2015, 06:21 AM
 
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I'll be sealing the joints with something else once the gluing is done, no worries there. Hell, I could even use PL for that!
I'd use a rubberized sealant. PE sells some specifically for that use, but any weather sealant probably works too (cheap).
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post #220 of 771 Old 01-17-2015, 06:22 AM
 
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So what's stopping you from bending it from one end a little at a time and putting a brad nail in it every 1 1/2" or so? You're going to cover it with veneer anyways right?
Use a fast grab construction adhesive or a fast cure wood glue. This can work.
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post #221 of 771 Old 01-17-2015, 07:35 AM - Thread Starter
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So what's stopping you from bending it from one end a little at a time and putting a brad nail in it every 1 1/2" or so? You're going to cover it with veneer anyways right?
See above. That's basically what I'm doing except with furring strips and screws. Brads won't hold this stuff down under tension.
Hopefully I'll have an update with a picture of the process later today.
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post #222 of 771 Old 01-17-2015, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
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So what's stopping you from bending it from one end a little at a time and putting a brad nail in it every 1 1/2" or so? You're going to cover it with veneer anyways right?
The nail won't hold the panel under tension. You end up with the nail sticking out of the mdf and a panel with a hole in it. Happened to me. I had to quickly grab some tin snips and trim the nail head and try and make it work without the nails. Then I spent some fun time cleaning PL off my tin snips.

EDIT: Sorry, I see dtsdig already explained this in a later post.

Last edited by Boxozaxu; 01-17-2015 at 10:47 AM.
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post #223 of 771 Old 01-21-2015, 08:32 AM
 
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I am anxious for the next update and how this turns out.
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post #224 of 771 Old 01-26-2015, 07:47 AM - Thread Starter
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The Dtsdig Curvy-Cab Tux-1099 build!!

Ok, got some work done over the weekend. After 4 hours of scraping and sanding, I had the one cabinet back to its original state with the addition of some nicks and bruises. I ended up buying a new scraper blade for my Fein Multimaster and that worked way better than using a chisel like I had been. The big lesson here once again...don't use PL if there's any chance you're going to f-up and have to remove it.
No messing around this time. Almost 100 screws later and Titebond II:




Starting from the baffle and working my way back was great although it was a ton of work driving all the screws simply because the screws I was using are somewhat hard to get started through the hardboard. It's called hardboard for a reason! Lol

I'll pull the furring strips and screws out tonight and see where we ended up. I had excellent squeeze out across the entire lengths of the shelves this time so I'm confident I'll be able to progress normally now.


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post #225 of 771 Old 01-26-2015, 10:17 AM
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Any issues with the screws cracking the MDF?
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post #226 of 771 Old 01-26-2015, 11:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Any issues with the screws cracking the MDF?
I had no issues with cracking. I used SPAX #6 1" wood screws that are made to use with "no drilling" for all of the furring strips into the edges of the braces. I tested them out on the edges of some scrap 3/4" MDF and had no cracking at all. For screwing the plywood L-bracket to the edge of the baffle, I used SPAX #8 2.5" screws and pre-drilled; had no issues. Even the 1" screws drove in hard and squeezed the materials together nicely with no stripping of the wood. Unless I have a drywall project to do, I've used the SPAX screws exclusively for 3 years now. They rock!
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post #227 of 771 Old 01-26-2015, 02:44 PM
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I had no issues with cracking. I used SPAX #6 1" wood screws that are made to use with "no drilling" for all of the furring strips into the edges of the braces. I tested them out on the edges of some scrap 3/4" MDF and had no cracking at all. For screwing the plywood L-bracket to the edge of the baffle, I used SPAX #8 2.5" screws and pre-drilled; had no issues. Even the 1" screws drove in hard and squeezed the materials together nicely with no stripping of the wood. Unless I have a drywall project to do, I've used the SPAX screws exclusively for 3 years now. They rock!
Yeah thats all I use for anything that needs holding power. Used them to mount my sub, projector, and screen. Just at the same stage as you are and after the finger accident, Im paranoid something else is going to go wrong
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post #228 of 771 Old 01-26-2015, 07:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah thats all I use for anything that needs holding power. Used them to mount my sub, projector, and screen. Just at the same stage as you are and after the finger accident, Im paranoid something else is going to go wrong
Yow! Man! I didn't see the pic of your finger until I checked on my phone tonight (my stupid work computer pretty much blocks everything now). That looks pretty brutal. I hope it heals well for you.

I took out the screws tonight and the first layer looks great this time. Nice and even, totally solid. Maybe Thursday I'll get to do the other side.
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post #229 of 771 Old 01-28-2015, 02:16 PM - Thread Starter
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From talking with @aaronlinkous , I am going to pick up this stapler tonight and see if it will work in place of 90 screws.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1-...stomer_reviews

We'll see what happens! Worst case scenario, I will have added another nice tool to my collection.
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post #230 of 771 Old 01-28-2015, 04:33 PM
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I wonder if you staple/nail at an angle with the staples opposing each other, will they be less likely to pull out?

The nice thing about screws is that you can screw the panel on with glue and when the glue dries you can pull the screws back out so you can use them again.
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post #231 of 771 Old 01-28-2015, 08:22 PM - Thread Starter
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I bought the stapler and experimented a bit. I think it's gonna work great for the outer layers but I decided I would just use the screws again tonight. I was a little better prepared this time around too. Like I said before, 100 screws is brutal to put into hardboard in such a short amount of time, but it turned out great. First layers on one box are done!
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post #232 of 771 Old 01-28-2015, 08:24 PM - Thread Starter
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post #233 of 771 Old 01-28-2015, 08:56 PM
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Yeah with age it dries out. All my furniture has it. Very common. Not a problem for holding a wood joint, but possibly if you want air tight sealer. It's the wrong stuff.
Are you certain this isn't due to the use of solid wood in furniture and its tendency to expand and contract with the change in weather and humidity?

Additionally, most of the DIY speakers are being made with MDF or plywood with is a manufactured product and doesn't exhibit these issues. Id love to see more info on this subject. Honestly, Ive never used PL or known anyone who has. I see it here occasionally, but I assumed it was due to inexperienced woodworkers with cuts not very precise. That happens a lot with new woodworkers.
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post #234 of 771 Old 01-28-2015, 11:55 PM
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DTS, your system does seem to be working really well. Nails are extremely strong though. I tear apart pallets for miscellaneous woodworking projects around the house and the boards will often start to split before the nails will start to pull out. I've broken 2x4 lumber trying to pry pallets apart.

I'll be curious to see how the staple gun compares. Make sure you tune the hammer depth correctly otherwise you'll end up with a staple/nail head slightly higher than the surface of your woodwork. Slightly lower may be good in your case.
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post #235 of 771 Old 02-27-2015, 05:44 AM
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Just read through this whole thread and what a build. Very impressive.

Any updates? I know its been ridiculously cold lately around here, good to find more local guys.

I've got a two part epoxy at home that has a pretty long working time, I think more than 30 min if I recall. I'll have to look when I get home.
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post #236 of 771 Old 02-27-2015, 08:35 PM
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Just read through this whole thread and what a build. Very impressive.

Any updates? I know its been ridiculously cold lately around here, good to find more local guys.

I've got a two part epoxy at home that has a pretty long working time, I think more than 30 min if I recall. I'll have to look when I get home.

Who has time for speaker builds? We're all busy shovelling snow up here in the north east.
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post #237 of 771 Old 02-27-2015, 11:08 PM
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I feel like I'm pretty much the only person on this forum who lives where it doesn't snow on their house.
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post #238 of 771 Old 02-28-2015, 04:14 AM
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Has not snowed at my house all winter and I live in northern Utah.
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post #239 of 771 Old 02-28-2015, 05:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Just read through this whole thread and what a build. Very impressive.

Any updates? I know its been ridiculously cold lately around here, good to find more local guys.

I've got a two part epoxy at home that has a pretty long working time, I think more than 30 min if I recall. I'll have to look when I get home.
Thank you! I do have some updates but I've got to snap some pics first. So are you in Rochester?

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Who has time for speaker builds? We're all busy shovelling snow up here in the north east.
I gave up shoveling years ago! Snowblower all the way!

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I feel like I'm pretty much the only person on this forum who lives where it doesn't snow on their house.
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Has not snowed at my house all winter and I live in northern Utah.
Lol, I'm guessing Popalock is not getting any snow either!
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post #240 of 771 Old 02-28-2015, 10:39 AM
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Thank you! I do have some updates but I've got to snap some pics first. So are you in Rochester?
Yepp, I'm over by the Garden Factory in Gates.

How do you plan on veneering everything? Using clamps or a vacuum system?
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