DIYSG 5.2 System, 1099's, V10's and ???? Subs - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 79 Old 05-24-2014, 08:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi All

 

I have been lurking all over the forums for the past 6 months or so until it became too great of temptation to resist going hog wild, buying a bunch of tools and building my own subs and speakers.  :D

 

This will be written primarily as a guide for other adventurous beginner minds.  I will try to provide as many links and prices as possible to give a better idea of what people are talking about, where to find the items and how much they cost.  I found it difficult on occasion, as I'm sure others may have, to keep up as there are much internal lingo/abbreviations that go on here.  ;)

 

 

With that being said this thread will be dedicated to documenting the builds of 

 

 

Left, Right and Center Channel     1099 (out of stock currently as of 17:35  5/24/14)

Surrounds                                 V-10 Volt

Undecided 18" Subwoofer(s)        SI18 or UXL18 

 

Quick overview:

 

I had considered several options for main speakers such as Emptek, Arx, and HTD Level 3.  All seemed to be great solutions and offer frankly more than I need in my current viewing area-standard living room.  

 

Arx was narrowed down to my first choice based on the great reviews they got on the HomeTheaterShack 1k speaker shootout.  However, the A5 line is currently being refreshed and will be released in June sometime as I understand.  This-combined with my built up desire to build them myself-lead to me looking into speakers kits.  

 

Eventually I stumbled onto Erich's DIY sound group site and then began to research all his kits. Once the 1099's came out I knew I had to have the them and checked the DIYSG site everyday until I was able to get (3) 1099's and (2) V10 Volt surround speakers.  

 

 

Tools:    

 

I moved to SoCal a couple years ago and didn't bring any tools with me so I basically had to start from scratch.  I am trying to balance buying too many tools and having the right tool for the job.  Below are estimates of what I spent.  I love Amazon as you can see due to the quick and cheap shipping!

 

 

 

3M 6000 Series Face Mask                        $15

3M P100 Particulate Filter                         $12

Howard Leight Lightweight Earmuffs           $20

 

Incra T-RULE12 12" Precision T-Rule           $30 

Amerock TMP-Multi Template                     $10

 

Kreg R3 Jr Pocket Hole Jig                         $40

Kreg Face Clamp                                      $20

Kreg Driver Bits                                       $5

 

Bosch 13 Piece Spade Drill Bit Set               $30

Porter Cable PC1014 Forstner Bit Set           $60

Tekton Center Punch                                 $5

 

Black & Decker Sander                              $35

3M Assorted Sandpaper                             $5

Titebond 3                                               $6

Vacmaster VB1210 12 Gal 5HP Vacuum         $90

 

Dewalt DWE575SB 7-1/4" Circular Saw         $150

Freud Diablo Ultra Finish Saw Blade             $20

Kreg Square Cut                                       $11

Kreg Rip-Cut                                            $30

Swanson Speed Square                              $10

 

Bosch 1617EVSPK  2-1/4hp Router                $200

Bench Dog Router Table                              $260

Jasper 200J Model 200 Circle Jig                   $40

MLCS Round Over Bit Set                             $30        

Freud 1/2" Top Bearing Flush Cut Bit              $20      

Freud 1/4" Double Flute Spiral Cut Bit            $20

Freud 1/2" Bearing Flush Trim Bit                  $20    

Incra IG32 Gauge                                       $15

Bosch Router Dust Extraction Hood                $25

 

Rolair JC10 1HP Air Compressor                    $240

Goodyear 25' 300 PSI Rubber Hose                $25

Milton 1/4 Quick Disconnect                          $7

Wen 18 Gauge Brad Nailer                            $35

Milton Blo-Gun                                            $12

 

 

1/4" x 1/16"  Neodymium Magnets (100)         $10

*Elusive* Fusion 1099                                  $377 x 3 = $1,131

V-10 Volt Coaxial Speakers                           $138 x 2= $276

Angled Flatpacks for V-10s                            $28 x 2 =  $56

Shipping for Flatpacks and V-10's                   $35 

Duratex Coating for speakers                        $75  (shipped)

Neutrik 2 Pole Connector                              $2.93 x 3 =  $8.79              

Neutrik Speakon Connector                           $2.59 x 3 =  $7.77

Binding posts                                              $6

 

Dayton Audio Mic                                        $80

 

Clamps from harbor freight (6)                     $40

Hot glue gun                                              $10

Zip ties                                                     $3 

Cutters                                                     $7 

Soldering iron                                            $25

Shrink wrap                                               $12

Heat Gun                                                   $15  

Speaker wire                                             $25 

.25" Female disconnects                               $5  

2 lbs of Poly-fill                                          $10

Fabric for interior of speaker                        $6

Flat black spray paint                                  $5

6” wide paint roller and pan                          $10

Hand sander                                              $6

 

 

I try and research anything that I consider an "investment" almost to a point of obsession so I feel that most of the tools and components have been fairly carefully selected.  That being said I'm always open to suggestions and other people's knowledge.  I could have overlooked something obvious in my search.

 

 

I will be making a regular rectangular enclosure for the 1099 center channel and building a TV stand around it.  It will be finished like this.  The surrounds will be duratex coated as well.

 

 

 

 

 

I'm planning on curved enclosures for the left and right channels.  This inspired me to do something similar.

 

No progress yet, but here's some of the components awaiting construction.

 

 

 

 

 

Lastly, I wanted to thank the many people that give much of their time to this forum!  

 

/Edited.  Updated tool list

//Edited. Formatting 

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post #2 of 79 Old 05-25-2014, 07:31 AM
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Crazy tools man! Have fun.

My youtube channel: Impulse Audio
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post #3 of 79 Old 05-25-2014, 11:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Crazy tools man! Have fun.

 

Well, I may have gone overboard a bit. Haha.  But I will be doing some remodeling at my girlfriend's house this summer so hopefully most of the tools will get some good usage.

 

Thank you for creating such an awesome design!  

 

 

(Also sorry about the formatting of the prices for the tools-I wish the forum had a insert table option)

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post #4 of 79 Old 05-25-2014, 11:25 AM
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I liked how you linked all the tools in your first post, that should help out any newbies.


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post #5 of 79 Old 05-26-2014, 08:03 AM
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Great tools and great speaker choices! Same setup as I'll have. Seems to be getting pretty popular here.
I'll be following along! Good luck!
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post #6 of 79 Old 05-26-2014, 08:33 AM
 
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what are you using as a sanding block for the initial low-grit sanding? Or are you going to power sand everything?

Looking forward to seeing this build
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post #7 of 79 Old 05-27-2014, 03:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post

Great tools and great speaker choices! Same setup as I'll have. Seems to be getting pretty popular here.
I'll be following along! Good luck!

 

Thanks!  You too.  I want to snag one of the flat packs for the 1099's once they come it.  I started putting together the V-10 Volts this weekend and it was so easy.  Great job Erich!

 

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by JWagstaff View Post

what are you using as a sanding block for the initial low-grit sanding? Or are you going to power sand everything?

Looking forward to seeing this build

 

I was thinking of using the B&D sander and some low grit paper.  You seem to have a lot of experience making making smooth edges/sides for piano finishes.  What would you recommend?  

 

I will be doing full duratex finishes for the surrounds and center.  The left and right speakers I want a lightly textured duratex front with veneer sides.  

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post #8 of 79 Old 05-27-2014, 07:22 PM
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Have you bought all of the tools yet? One suggestion I would make is to check craigslist daily in the tools section, at least in my area you can find great deals on tools and power tool on craigslist. I've had great luck and saved quite a bit of money. smile.gif
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post #9 of 79 Old 05-27-2014, 09:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

Have you bought all of the tools yet? One suggestion I would make is to check craigslist daily in the tools section, at least in my area you can find great deals on tools and power tool on craigslist. I've had great luck and saved quite a bit of money. smile.gif

 

Yes, thanks for the tip.  I did look at craigslist for a table saw, but was discouraged when most of all I saw was old and crappy.  I won't mind it if I owned it for 10-15 years, but I didn't want to buy something that was beaten up for only a marginal savings.  I'm sure it depends on the specific tool and location.

 

I felt sorry for the poor Fedex guy.  I got all those tools over the past two weeks from Amazon.  haha

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post #10 of 79 Old 05-27-2014, 09:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

Have you bought all of the tools yet? One suggestion I would make is to check craigslist daily in the tools section, at least in my area you can find great deals on tools and power tool on craigslist. I've had great luck and saved quite a bit of money. smile.gif

 

 

Oh and btw I'm envious of your subwoofer setup!  :D  I'm leaning towards a UXL once they are back in stock.

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post #11 of 79 Old 05-27-2014, 10:04 PM - Thread Starter
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V-10 Volt Build

 

Here are the photos from the beginning of my surround speaker build.  Note, I am using a old foosball table topped with plywood as my temp workbench, haha.  

 

 

I picked up six clamps at Harbor freight for $5-8 each.  I’m not sure what sized clamps and how many I would actually use to be spending $40-80 per clamp.  These seemed to do a decent job.  You don’t want to squeeze all the glue out from the joint anyways.

 

 

 

 

With the back panel having dado grooves it makes this speaker extremely easy to build.

 

 

 

 

I did a dry test fit of all the panels just to make sure they should all line up once I apply the glue and clamp them in place.

 

 

 

 

As you can see all the pieces are cut very nicely-I must make friends with someone that has a CNC in their back yard

 

 

 

 

I applied a moderate amount of tite bond 3 wood glue to all of the sides of the back panel.

 

 

 

 

Make sure to hit all the joints with the glue.

 

 

 

 

I waited a few minutes for the glue to start setting up so the panels don’t slide as easy and it’s better for making fine adjustments in placement of the panels.  Attaching the first two clamps.  I like this clamp style a lot- at least for clamping things on parallel planes.

 

 

 

 

I finished putting three other clamps on, but not too tight.  Once I did this I double checked the alignment of all the panels and then left it to sit for overnight.  I’m not sure what the minimum time required for the tight bond to fully setup, but I was in no hurry. 

 

 

 

I made sure the interior joints had a nice bit of glue on them. 

 

 

 

 

I hear that not wiping the glue from the joint helps with removing it with a flush trim router bit.  I've never used a router before so I tried it this way.  I can see how it would be easier also to remove with a chisel or other tool.

 

 

 

 

 

I used my Bosch 1617 router and a Freud 1/2" flush trim bit to remove the excess glue. 

 

 

 

 

Here is the trimmed joint.  Routers are awesome!  I wish I had used one 14 years ago when I was building subwoofer boxes for people in my high school.

 

 

 

These are very easy to build!  I would say it only took 5 minutes for initial work and then another two minutes per speaker for the glue trimming. 

 

Next up is to finish the crossovers, round over the sides of the enclosure and then prep for the duratex paint. 

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post #12 of 79 Old 05-27-2014, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
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Yes, thanks for the tip.  I did look at craigslist for a table saw, but was discouraged when most of all I saw was old and crappy.  I won't mind it if I owned it for 10-15 years, but I didn't want to buy something that was beaten up for only a marginal savings.  I'm sure it depends on the specific tool and location.

I felt sorry for the poor Fedex guy.  I got all those tools over the past two weeks from Amazon.  haha

Yeah I hear you on that one, but that's why I said you need to check everyday smile.gif
I always do a quick search once a day in the tools section and use "Festool" in the search.
I like their stuff and sometimes there's some really good deals to be had smile.gif
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Oh and btw I'm envious of your subwoofer setup!  biggrin.gif   I'm leaning towards a UXL once they are back in stock.

Thanks, I should have the last two up and running this weekend. Four of them should be pretty awesome...lol smile.gif

The slanted style cabinets look great by the way!
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Quote:
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Thanks!  You too.  I want to snag one of the flat packs for the 1099's once they come it.  I started putting together the V-10 Volts this weekend and it was so easy.  Great job Erich!





I was thinking of using the B&D sander and some low grit paper.  You seem to have a lot of experience making making smooth edges/sides for piano finishes.  What would you recommend?  

I will be doing full duratex finishes for the surrounds and center.  The left and right speakers I want a lightly textured duratex front with veneer sides.  

I've never used a power sander, I only do it by hand. I've heard to just block sand low grit, you could just make one out of a piece of 2x4 for basically free(there's videos/diy guides online) or you could get a real sanding block. It makes it easier to make it completely flat and straight. You can use a power sander after low grit, so I'd say 80 grit hand sand and 150 or 220 grit power sand. It's important to have a block or it won't be flat.
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post #15 of 79 Old 06-02-2014, 12:27 AM - Thread Starter
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I've never used a power sander, I only do it by hand. I've heard to just block sand low grit, you could just make one out of a piece of 2x4 for basically free(there's videos/diy guides online) or you could get a real sanding block. It makes it easier to make it completely flat and straight. You can use a power sander after low grit, so I'd say 80 grit hand sand and 150 or 220 grit power sand. It's important to have a block or it won't be flat.

 

Thanks JWagstaff.  Yes, that is definately true about best practice to use a sanding block to knock down there large stuff first.  I picked one up from Home Depot for $8.

 

 

Update on build

 

Crossover assembly:

 

Needed tools

 

Hot glue gun         $10

Zip ties                 $3 

Cutters                 $20 for the set of $7 if you can find them separately-maybe at Fry's or Microcenter

Soldering iron        $25

Shrink wrap           $12

Heat Gun              $15  

Speaker wire, The holes in the crossovers only accept up to 16-18 gauge wire?  Not sure of the exact size.  I used 14 and trimmed it down, but that caused a problem down the road I'll go over.

.25" Female disconnects $5  

 

 

Zip tie the large components to the board and then use the hot glue gun to adhere the smaller components.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I used the binding posts from Erich on my enclosures. For six bucks they seem pretty good and are easier to install than some other solutions.

 

 

 

 

For the binding posts unscrew the nuts and tale apart the ring connection to solder it to the wire leads that connect to the crossover.  Strip about 1" of insulation from the cable.  Note: make sure to put the shrink wrap on before soldering anything or you won't be able to later.  I forgot and had to redo one of my leads.

 

 

 

 

 

Twist the wire around the connector and solder it to ensure a solid connection for the future.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Move the shrink wrap down to cover the soldered area.  Use the heat gun on the heat shrink.

 

 

 

 

Next use the .25 female disconnects for the tweeter and woofer leads.  I used a set of pliers to hold the cables while I applied some solder to the end of the wire after crimping them on.

 

 

 

 

 

I applied solder at the ends just as extra insurance.  Probably not needed.

 

 

 

 

Here are the finished leads coming from the crossover.

 

 

 

 

 

I mounted the crossovers using some

1/2" plastic spacers from Home Depot.  $1.20 for 4,

7/8" long #5 wood screws - $1 for 8

#5 Washers $4 

 

I think it was easier to mount the crossover before mounting the front panel of the enclosure.

 

 

 

 

Use a hot glue gun again, this time to attach the spacers to the bottom of the crossover.  Much easier to do it this way than fighting to get everything aligned and drilling at the same time! :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Crossover mounted in the box.  

 

 

 

 

While it was a nice sunny day out I decided to beef up the joints with a larger bead of glue-mostly to double check the seals, not the integrity.  

 

 

 

 

New toy to build and use for the corners of the box.  Bench Dog Pro Top Router Table $260

 

 

 

 

I picked up some loose weave fabric from Jo Ann's Fabric for $1.50 per yard and 2 lbs of Polyfill for $10.  I didn't put much too much Poly-fill into either box and then used the fabric to manage the stuffing.  Not knowing potentially how hot the crossover components could get I wanted to keep the Poly-fill away from it.  

 

 

 

 

I stapled the fabric, loosely, roughly an inch around the perimeter of the crossover.  This should keep the Poly-fill away from the crossover.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I stapled the fabric all around and trimmed the excess.

 

 

 

 

 

Router table and shop vac assembled.

 

 

 

 

1/2" round over on all the edges to protect the speakers and aesthetics.  

 

 

 

 

I used 80 grit sand paper to hit all the edges and the corners.

 

 

 

 

 

Sanded with 80, 220 and then 500 grit paper.  500 may have been overkill since I put Duratex as the finish.

 

 

 

 

I used a flat black spray paint for the inside lip that I won't be applying Duratex to.

 

 

 

 

1 gallon Duratex, 1/4 nap 6" wide paint roller and pan, gloves.  (1 gallon of Duratex could probably paint 10+ sets of these V-10 Volts with two coats each!!)

 

 

 

 

This is after the second coat.  I am impressed with the Duratex!  It seems like it will provide a lot of protection and has a nice appearance to it.

 

 

 

 

Since the back will be facing the wall I placed the speakers on boxes to hold them up and paint all the other sides of them besides the back panel.  I then painted the rear after the rest had dried.

 

 

 

 

Binding posts tapped into the snug holes with a rubber mallet.

 

 

 

Next step is to mount the drivers tomorrow and see what they've got!  

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post #16 of 79 Old 06-03-2014, 01:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Drivers mounted in the slanted boxes.  They sound amazing!  I just got back from T.H.E. Show Newport so I had the opportunity to listen to some very lavish systems there (in the $10K-$600K range) and I would say for ~$190 per speaker I have tied up in the V-10's they hold their own against some costing thousands of dollars each.  I am quite impressed with them and know they will serve me well as surround speakers.

 

 

Thanks to Erich and Matt (MTG90) for bringing such a great speaker to market at an affordable price!

 

They were very easy to build and I would recommend them to beginner builders on up.  

 

 

Here they are on top of some older Paradigm towers while I test them.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next are the 1099's   :D 

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post #17 of 79 Old 06-03-2014, 01:38 PM
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Excellent step by step tutorial and they came out great!
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post #18 of 79 Old 06-03-2014, 01:44 PM
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Bravo! smile.gif

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post #19 of 79 Old 06-03-2014, 01:55 PM
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too bad i can only give one 'thumbs up' for each of your posts...they deserve more!

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #20 of 79 Old 06-03-2014, 01:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Excellent step by step tutorial and they came out great!

 

Thank you!  I've been helped by other older threads.  Maybe this will help someone in the future.

 

 

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Bravo! smile.gif

 

Thank you sir.  I'm not sure if I can comprehend how the 1099's will sound if I'm impressed with these already :)  

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post #21 of 79 Old 06-03-2014, 02:12 PM - Thread Starter
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too bad i can only give one 'thumbs up' for each of your posts...they deserve more!

 

Thanks, but I'd say you deserve the thumbs up-doling out awesome subwoofer designs left and right! 

 

Wait, I'm actually not too happy about that.  I can't decide which box I want.  I want them all!  lol 

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post #22 of 79 Old 06-03-2014, 05:29 PM
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Looking good, I am glad you like them. smile.gif

Always nice to meet fellow AVS'ers in person.
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post #23 of 79 Old 06-03-2014, 07:59 PM
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Great post!

Love how you documented each and every piece in your build. This will certainly inspire new and veteran DIYers smile.gif
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post #24 of 79 Old 06-05-2014, 01:05 PM
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Now on with the 1099s after all thats why we came here

Last edited by cw5billwade; 06-13-2014 at 06:05 AM.
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post #25 of 79 Old 06-05-2014, 01:17 PM
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I liked how you linked all the tools in your first post, that should help out any newbies.

Like me. This really helps, thanks!

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post #26 of 79 Old 06-06-2014, 10:53 AM
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Looking good, I am glad you like them. smile.gif

Always nice to meet fellow AVS'ers in person.
Mat the volt is your design? How do you think they will pair with the 1099?
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post #27 of 79 Old 06-06-2014, 07:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Looking good, I am glad you like them. smile.gif

Always nice to meet fellow AVS'ers in person.

 

Thank you!

 

Yes, although too brief.  I wish I had more time at the event to hang out and ask questions.  You had a really nice setup!  The thunderous bass is what initially drew me down that way, haha.

 

 

 

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Great post!

Love how you documented each and every piece in your build. This will certainly inspire new and veteran DIYers smile.gif
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Like me. This really helps, thanks!
 

You're very welcome. I'll try to take as many pictures of the steps when I build the 1099's.  

 

 

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Now on with the 1099s after all thats whay we came here wink.gif

 

Haha, yes I'm excited for those as well.  I haven't done any wood working in over 7 years since I built twin 36" Tuba HT's with 15" Dayton Titanic subs.  That was a fun project!  Probably the best $15 I spent that year was on the Tuba designs.  They went into essentially a 10´x 14´dorm room in my fraternity house!  It was crazy loud, haha.  36 cubic feet of subwoofers laid flat; built into a dance platform.

 

I had to shake off some of the rust by building the V10's first.  

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post #28 of 79 Old 06-09-2014, 06:56 AM
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Quote:Originally Posted by matrixarp

I built twin 36" Tuba HT's with 15" Dayton Titanic subs. That was a fun project! Probably the best $15 I spent that year was on the Tuba designs. They went into essentially a 10´x 14´dorm room in my fraternity house! It was crazy loud, haha. 36 cubic feet of subwoofers laid flat; built into a dance platform.

I have seen some theater builds using the Tuba design. I have the MK4 sealed 12" kit and I really like that woffer the base is nice. Since the vented spec on the 15" MK4 is 5.46' ^3 tuned to 21Hz how does that work with the Tuba which is much larger.

Last edited by cw5billwade; 06-13-2014 at 06:07 AM.
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post #29 of 79 Old 06-12-2014, 12:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by matrixarp 

I built twin 36" Tuba HT's with 15" Dayton Titanic subs.  That was a fun project!  Probably the best $15 I spent that year was on the Tuba designs.  They went into essentially a 10´x 14´dorm room in my fraternity house!  It was crazy loud, haha.  36 cubic feet of subwoofers laid flat; built into a dance platform.

I have seen some theater buils using the Tuba design. I have the MK4 sealed 12" kit and I really like thay woffer. my base is nice. Since the vented spec on the 15" MK4 is 5.46' ^3 tuned to 21Hz how does that work with the Tuba which is much larger.

The subwoofers were louder than I could imagine before I built them.
Specs are really guidelines for applications. There will be a range in which you will be able to achieve good results with tradeoffs in different places depending on the size and tune. Having a 5.5 cu ft box tuned to 21hz is not a requirement-merely a suggestion.
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post #30 of 79 Old 06-13-2014, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matrixarp View Post
The subwoofers were louder than I could imagine before I built them.
Specs are really guidelines for applications. There will be a range in which you will be able to achieve good results with tradeoffs in different places depending on the size and tune. Having a 5.5 cu ft box tuned to 21hz is not a requirement-merely a suggestion.
Makes sense any progress on the 1099 yet?
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