MartySub FAQ - Page 134 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3991 of 5080 Old 03-22-2017, 11:45 AM
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OK, so a UM18 can handle much more than its rating and therefore more than the "1200W" RMS of the PSA1200DSP, but how much actual headroom/extension capability would I be sacrificing compared to powering with an iNuke3000 in a Full Marty? As I said, not sure if I need 120dB down to 20Hz (yes I know headroom is always better).

As an aside, I spoke with the manufacturer and the PSA1200DSP has a built in "Sub Tuning" setting which can be set to Sealed(off)/16Hz/20Hz so no need for HPF workaround if this amp is used.
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post #3992 of 5080 Old 03-22-2017, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwanck11 View Post
I got all of the MDF for my 2 marty subs - so the build should not take long. Each martysub will have a 18" SI DS4.

Question on amplification:

The inuke6000DSP or the crown xls2502?

If price was not an issue, which would I select? I am thinking the crown as it seems to have plenty of power (unless I am misreading), a comparable DSP capability as well as runs much quieter. What am I missing?

Also, if I went the crown route, will one unit ably run 2 ds4's in martysub boxes or am I looking at having to buy 2?

Thanks very much in advance.


iirc, the xls2502 dsp is kind of limited--doesn't go low enough.

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post #3993 of 5080 Old 03-23-2017, 08:46 AM
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Hey LTD02, I decided to not build the two xxx ported subs, I sold all the SIs and will put 2-4 XXX 18s in the front wall with your port design at 10hz. Thank you! I should be starting this soon.
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post #3994 of 5080 Old 03-23-2017, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post
Hey LTD02, I decided to not build the two xxx ported subs, I sold all the SIs and will put 2-4 XXX 18s in the front wall with your port design at 10hz. Thank you! I should be starting this soon.

Oh no, the building never stops, lol.
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post #3995 of 5080 Old 03-23-2017, 09:50 AM
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It won't be like before, less subs but more powerful. The end goal is 4 24s ported, maybe. I am building some TLAH from BFM as well. They look cool and promising. Trying out soft domes, 12 of them.
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post #3996 of 5080 Old 03-23-2017, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post
It won't be like before, less subs but more powerful. The end goal is 4 24s ported, maybe. I am building some TLAH from BFM as well. They look cool and promising. Trying out soft domes, 12 of them.
Why not ribbons? $$$ or another reason?
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post #3997 of 5080 Old 03-24-2017, 08:09 AM
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I am not a designer, I need a kit with a crossover. I am barely good at putting kits together. My favorite music speakers I have owned or heard were with soft domes. Of course that means crap because I mostly watch movies. Ribbons have always interested me and the MMGs for $300 each were a great deal. Being Dipole is not good though and they can't play loud enough for HT peaks.

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post #3998 of 5080 Old 03-24-2017, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post


The wiring is correct, IF the speakOn cable is wired to +1 and +2 as well. Not a problem if you made the cable, but you'll have to rewire the connectors on a store bought cable.
I bought the cable. So there are 4 conductors in there...so I should rewire it so there are two conductors on the +1 and two on the +2? Sorry if it seems like a silly question.

Thanks,
Kris
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post #3999 of 5080 Old 03-24-2017, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by kpfeif View Post
I bought the cable. So there are 4 conductors in there...so I should rewire it so there are two conductors on the +1 and two on the +2? Sorry if it seems like a silly question.

Thanks,
Kris
If there are 4 conductors, you won't have to rewire. You're good to go. Enjoy!

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post #4000 of 5080 Old 03-24-2017, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post
I am not a designer, I need a kit with a crossover. I am barely good at putting kits together. My favorite music speakers I have owned or heard were with soft domes. Of course that means crap because I mostly watch movies. Ribbons have always interested me and the MMGs for $300 each were a great deal. Being Dipole is not good though and they can't play loud enough for HT peaks.

I kind of see where you are going and like it. I have followed your HT for a while and know the kinda work put into it. Bro, I commenting and not criticizing one bit. I will speak out when I don't think a change in direction will net much difference.
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post #4001 of 5080 Old 03-26-2017, 06:14 AM
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No problem, most of it is for the hobby because any of them were satisfying. I just want to hear the XXX ported and BFM line arrays. I can always change which is a benefit from a wall for an enclosure. This also gave me the opportunity to fix all the bad things in previous builds.

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post #4002 of 5080 Old 03-27-2017, 12:15 PM
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EDIT: Nevermind, a deal has been struck. AV enclosure goes in adjacent room in exchange for wainscoting in future nursery (had already thought of doing this). Good for iNuke unless my wife pulls a Vader deal.

Original post: My WAF dictates an "integrated Marty" (amp mounted on enclosure) and I don't have a rack or suitable place to hide the less than quiet/pretty iNuke from her. Any reason I can't/shouldn't mount an iNuke 3000dsp on the back of a full Marty as if it were a plate amp (faceplate forming outer surface)?

I have to believe the volume of air moved in/out of the port by driving a UM18 hard enough to heat up the amp will prevent the enclosure from warming very much. Mounting like this should also cut down on fan noise.

I would love to use a plate amp such as the Dayton SPA1200DSP but can't justify the extra cost without hearing from happy owners (PE customer service told me they've only sold ~75-100 but have only had a few back for warranty issues).

Last edited by lavakv; 03-28-2017 at 09:46 AM.
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post #4003 of 5080 Old 03-27-2017, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lavakv View Post
My WAF dictates an "integrated Marty" (amp mounted on enclosure) and I don't have a rack or suitable place to hide the less than quiet/pretty iNuke from her. Any reason I can't/shouldn't mount an iNuke 3000dsp on the back of a full Marty as if it were a plate amp (faceplate forming outer surface)?

I have to believe the volume of air moved in/out of the port by driving a UM18 hard enough to heat up the amp will prevent the enclosure from warming very much. Mounting like this should also cut down on fan noise.

I would love to use a plate amp such as the Dayton SPA1200DSP but can't justify the extra cost without hearing from happy owners (PE customer service told me they've only sold ~75-100 but have only had a few back for warranty issues).
I actually have my 6000dsp behind my sub laying on its side so i can still reach the controls. Theres about 5 inches between the sub and the rear wall. Theres still air flow and i haven't had any problems. Also as you have mentioned, it puts it further from my seating location to help with fan noise.
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post #4004 of 5080 Old 03-28-2017, 10:14 AM
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Ok. I've been reading through ALL the posts here at work for a couple weeks, but I'm only at page 86! I'm learning as I go, but have yet to find someone mounting the driver and port out the top, then obviously laying the mini marty down so that it's not so high. Even better would be if I could shrink that panel down even more, but not sure if that would be feesable, as per design. I'm going to be using a false wall and can have as much going as deep as I want. What would my cut sheet be if that 2'x2' panel can be shrunk, or does it need to be 2'x'2 for the driver and port? What I'd like to do is build a mini using the Dayton Ultimax UM22 18. I'll continue reading from page 86, but if someone could chime in, might save me some time. I'm going to do a minimum of 2, but eventually I think I'll end up with 4 in my roughly 5000 cuft sealed room.
Thank you all in advance.
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post #4005 of 5080 Old 03-28-2017, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squiers007 View Post
Sort of, this is mostly just related to the "Marty Sub" design, but a lot of people's questions would apply to any DIY sub you were designing or building.

If you have questions about DIY subs not directly related to the Marty Subs then feel free to make a new thread and we'd be glad to help out.
...
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post #4006 of 5080 Old 03-28-2017, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by roadkingrich View Post
Ok. I've been reading through ALL the posts here at work for a couple weeks, but I'm only at page 86! I'm learning as I go, but have yet to find someone mounting the driver and port out the top,
I don't think I've anyone mount both the driver and port out the top. Of course, you can simply rotate the box.

Quote:
Originally Posted by roadkingrich View Post
then obviously laying the mini marty down so that it's not so high. Even better would be if I could shrink that panel down even more, but not sure if that would be feesable, as per design. I'm going to be using a false wall and can have as much going as deep as I want.
Think I can help with this. If you're looking for something low and wide, behold the cyclops: CYCLOPS....a new LTD02 design
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post #4007 of 5080 Old 03-30-2017, 03:50 PM
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I'm looking at either two full Marty's, or two Cyclops 18s. I need them to be around 30" wide and 20" deep to fit well between my Titan's on my stage. Would these dimensions work well for the Marty?

48" x 19.5" sides
30" x 19.5" top and bottom
2.25" port braces
30" x 16.5" Port Bottom
30" x 19.5" Port Back
30" x 46.5" Back

Thanks in advance.
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post #4008 of 5080 Old 03-31-2017, 07:46 PM
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I have to give LTD02 props! I wanted to build a slot ported monster with XXX 18 drivers tuned to 10hz. He design a sub with the proper port length and size for me. After all that I scrapped that idea and decided to put them in my front baffle wall and port that to 10hz. I finally built the unique port(to me anyways) and I am getting ready to finish the subs. I wanted to show him how the port came out. He can post his sketch up and compare. I took out my speaker enclosures which means I added 50 cubes back to the wall so it is 250 cubes total. The tune will come out at 8hz or so now.
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post #4009 of 5080 Old 03-31-2017, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post
I have to give LTD02 props! I wanted to build a slot ported monster with XXX 18 drivers tuned to 10hz. He design a sub with the proper port length and size for me. After all that I scrapped that idea and decided to put them in my front baffle wall and port that to 10hz. I finally built the unique port(to me anyways) and I am getting ready to finish the subs. I wanted to show him how the port came out. He can post his sketch up and compare. I took out my speaker enclosures which means I added 50 cubes back to the wall so it is 250 cubes total. The tune will come out at 8hz or so now.

thanks james. it was kind of fun thinking about how we could port your front wall. :-)


for a little context on what james is doing. here is the concept of his front wall with a big single port. the entire room behind his baffle wall will be serving as the "enclosure" for the subs mounted in his baffle wall.





there is another wall not too fall behind the baffle wall, so the port was designed to fire back then out the sides. each of the side exits is 1/2 the area of front section.


rear view:





normally a huge port like that would have to be extremely long to get a low tune, but since the room behind the baffle that is serving as the enclosure is so big (for an enclosure; not for a room), the port ended up not having to be very long at all. there have been a couple of "ported rooms" in the past, so this isn't a completely new idea, just kind of an interesting one. should pick up somewhere in the 10db or so of output compared to a non-ported wall.


martysub faq might not be the best place for this, so if further discussion will ensue, a new thread might be a good idea.
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post #4010 of 5080 Old 04-01-2017, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCC Tim View Post
I'm looking at either two full Marty-like, or two Cyclops 18s-like subs. I need them to be around 30" wide and 20" deep to fit well between my Titan's on my stage. Would these dimensions work well for the Marty-like sub?

48" x 19.5" sides
30" x 19.5" top and bottom
2.25" port rails
30" x 16.5" Port Bottom
30" x 19.5" Port Back
30" x 46.5" Back

Thanks in advance.
Bumping to see if someone can verify my math for me. It looks like this should keep it similar to the full Marty, volume, and port wise.
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post #4011 of 5080 Old 04-01-2017, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by RCC Tim View Post
Bumping to see if someone can verify my math for me. It looks like this should keep it similar to the full Marty, volume, and port wise.
Here's a link to my Cyclops build with similar dimensions to what you're looking for. You could change the depth to 20" instead of the 16" that I used. You'd have to modify the port length though. What frequency tuning are you looking for? I'd probably recommend 15-17hz.
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post #4012 of 5080 Old 04-01-2017, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by RCC Tim View Post
Bumping to see if someone can verify my math for me. It looks like this should keep it similar to the full Marty, volume, and port wise.


What sub are you using again
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post #4013 of 5080 Old 04-01-2017, 12:52 PM
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Here's a link to my Cyclops build with similar dimensions to what you're looking for. You could change the depth to 20" instead of the 16" that I used. You'd have to modify the port length though. What frequency tuning are you looking for? I'd probably recommend 15-17hz.
Thanks Vic. I saw that. That would work for me too, I don't have to go 19.5, I was just trying to size it to keep the tuning close to the full Marty. Do you have the cut sheet for it? How do you like them? I was going to use the UM18-22. Thanks again.
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Thanks Vic. I saw that. That would work for me too, I don't have to go 19.5, I was just trying to size it to keep the tuning close to the full Marty. Do you have the cut sheet for it? How do you like them? I was going to use the UM18-22. Thanks again.
The Cyclops that I built was designed for a UM-18. You could extend it to 20" deep, which would give you more net volume. You could also tune it to be the same tuning as the Marty or lower if you'd prefer. I have the cut sheet. Let me pull it out. I think I also have the numbers for a 20" deep version of my subs.
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Originally Posted by VicTorious1 View Post
The Cyclops that I built was designed for a UM-18. You could extend it to 20" deep, which would give you more net volume. You could also tune it to be the same tuning as the Marty or lower if you'd prefer. I have the cut sheet. Let me pull it out. I think I also have the numbers for a 20" deep version of my subs.
The 20" would be awesome, thanks.
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What sub are you using again
I don't have any yet. Was planning on using the UM18-22.
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MartySub FAQ

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Originally Posted by RCC Tim View Post
I don't have any yet. Was planning on using the UM18-22.


That's a nice sub once I get back home I'll plug some numbers in winisd and see what I come up with for the port size with different size boxes and get back to you.
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That's a nice sub once I get back home I'll plug some numbers in winisd and see what I come up with for the port size with different size boxes and get back to you.
That's nice of you Mike, thanks. I should probably learn to use that myself.
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post #4019 of 5080 Old 04-02-2017, 08:33 AM
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I'm getting to the end stages of my theater build and am at the point where I'm about to build a pair of subs. My room is only 13' wide and unfortunately, my only location for the subs is upfront on each side of my center channel.


That won't allow a pair of MiniMarty subs (sitting on their sides) to reside without everything being crammed together but by the same token, I have a little extra room above what MartyCubes would take up. So I'm thinking of a 'tweener between the two. Some sort of "MidMarty" with dimensions of 2' x 25.5" x 32". I already have 2 Dayton UM18-22 18" Ultimax drivers and a Behringer iNuke NU6000DSP for the build. I'm thinking this MidMarty would have a cut list like this:

A- (2) Top, Bottom 2' x 2'
B- (2) Sides 2' x 32"
C- (1) Back 2' x 30.5"
D- (2) Double Front Baffle 2' x 27.25"
E- (1) Port Bottom 2' x 20.75"
F- (1) Port Back 2' x 20.625"
G- (2) Bottom port rails 2.5" x 20.75"
H- (2) Back port rails 2.5" x 23.875"

Not sure if splitting the difference in the port height between the MartyCube (2") and MiniMarty (3") is the recommended approach. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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post #4020 of 5080 Old 04-02-2017, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by broomet View Post
I'm getting to the end stages of my theater build and am at the point where I'm about to build a pair of subs. My room is only 13' wide and unfortunately, my only location for the subs is upfront on each side of my center channel.


That won't allow a pair of MiniMarty subs (sitting on their sides) to reside without everything being crammed together but by the same token, I have a little extra room above what MartyCubes would take up. So I'm thinking of a 'tweener between the two. Some sort of "MidMarty" with dimensions of 2' x 25.5" x 32". I already have 2 Dayton UM18-22 18" Ultimax drivers and a Behringer iNuke NU6000DSP for the build. I'm thinking this MidMarty would have a cut list like this:

A- (2) Top, Bottom 2' x 2'
B- (2) Sides 2' x 32"
C- (1) Back 2' x 30.5"
D- (2) Double Front Baffle 2' x 27.25"
E- (1) Port Bottom 2' x 20.75"
F- (1) Port Back 2' x 20.625"
G- (2) Bottom port rails 2.5" x 20.75"
H- (2) Back port rails 2.5" x 23.875"

Not sure if splitting the difference in the port height between the MartyCube (2") and MiniMarty (3") is the recommended approach. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
24" x 25.5" x 32" is the exact dimensions of the Johnny Sub, so you're good you go!

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