MartySub FAQ - Page 141 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4201 of 5284 Old 09-12-2017, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ultrabubu View Post
Hi guys,
last year I had built two Mini Martys with Ultimax 18-22 for the front stage in myHT and it's AWESOME!!! Now,I have another um18-22 that i want to put it in the back of the room, eventually nearfield; is the um 18 fits in a Marty cube box ? The mini will be to big for nearfield position. Did a Marty cube in the back bring me more headroom in my 23'/15' concrete HT room?
Anyone?
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post #4202 of 5284 Old 09-14-2017, 08:16 PM
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I was wondering if anyone can provide me with flat packs for 4 marty builds?
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post #4203 of 5284 Old 09-15-2017, 04:36 AM
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Originally Posted by acmcool View Post
I was wondering if anyone can provide me with flat packs for 4 marty builds?
Check with local lumber yards. Many wil cut panels for a reasonable price. Glad to see your building at least 4!
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post #4204 of 5284 Old 09-15-2017, 06:07 AM
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post #4205 of 5284 Old 09-15-2017, 09:54 AM
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Friendly reminder to double check the route from where you assemble your Marty to its final destination for choke points. I have what my wife and I call a Hobbit door from the unfinished to finished portions of the basement and with the jamb trim its 26" wide. Made for a nice tight squeeze!
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post #4206 of 5284 Old 09-15-2017, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Jk7.2 View Post
Check with local lumber yards. Many wil cut panels for a reasonable price. Glad to see your building at least 4!
I am thinking of building 2 mini marty cubes and 2 full marty

My room is 26ft long, 13ft wide and 8ft height
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post #4207 of 5284 Old 09-15-2017, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by eng-399 View Post
Yes it fits in the box
Thank you!!!
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post #4208 of 5284 Old 09-18-2017, 02:24 AM
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Anybody know how i can repair this?

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post #4209 of 5284 Old 09-18-2017, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by STAIN0 View Post
Anybody know how i can repair this?
Your video says after 5 minutes. Was this a brand new driver? If so they should be under warranty unless you were pushing it too hard and it did that. I haven't seen anyone post anything like that before and I know guys that really push the UM18s so I would think it is probably a factory defective.
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post #4210 of 5284 Old 09-18-2017, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by bscool View Post
Your video says after 5 minutes. Was this a brand new driver? If so they should be under warranty unless you were pushing it too hard and it did that. I haven't seen anyone post anything like that before and I know guys that really push the UM18s so I would think it is probably a factory defective.
i bought it back in feb but only recently opened the box (house was still getting built)
imported here to australia from parts express.
set it up in my minimarty, followed the instructions in this thread to set high pass filter. could not get inuke to connect to laptop via usb so set it through the front panel on the inuke 6000dsp.
Also did the LTD work around to get it to 17hz. (maybe here is where i did something wrong?)
had a play with REW using the basic guide linked in op, watched a movie at around -20 and all seemed great.

Then a friend came over and i thought id crank it up a bit, took it to about -5 and a couple minutes later, rattle rattle rattle.

Now i am too scared to set up my second one incase i did something wrong and will destroy it also.


sorry, i am completely new to diy subs and everything else that comes along with them, always been a buy, plug, play guy.
does my graph show that high pass filter is not working as it should of?
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post #4211 of 5284 Old 09-18-2017, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by STAIN0 View Post
thanks oklahomie.
you have confirmed how i was planning to do it originally, but lately i have made a few stuff ups with things when i have just gone off half arsed thinking i had it worked out.
now if im not 100% certain id rather ask and be sure.
hence this post
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post #4212 of 5284 Old 09-18-2017, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STAIN0 View Post
i bought it back in feb but only recently opened the box (house was still getting built)
imported here to australia from parts express.
set it up in my minimarty, followed the instructions in this thread to set high pass filter. could not get inuke to connect to laptop via usb so set it through the front panel on the inuke 6000dsp.
Also did the LTD work around to get it to 17hz. (maybe here is where i did something wrong?)
had a play with REW using the basic guide linked in op, watched a movie at around -20 and all seemed great.

Then a friend came over and i thought id crank it up a bit, took it to about -5 and a couple minutes later, rattle rattle rattle.

Now i am too scared to set up my second one incase i did something wrong and will destroy it also.


sorry, i am completely new to diy subs and everything else that comes along with them, always been a buy, plug, play guy.
does my graph show that high pass filter is not working as it should of?
It looks correct to me in the Inuke setting, it hard to tell from your REW FR. I have mine in a sealed box and I have given them everything the Inuke 6000 has and never had any problems other than they let me know when pushed too hard as they distort and I turn it down.

I did see someone post not too long ago that their cone and surround(I think it was) came apart of the Um18. I think the Um18 is a good driver but it seems like they have some quality control issues. Like I said I bought 2 brand new from Parts Express and right out of the box 1 had voice coil rub. I don't see people posting about the RSS460HO having these issues unless people have posted about them and I missed them.
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post #4213 of 5284 Old 09-22-2017, 01:07 AM
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Just built myself 2 micro marties hooked up to an inuke3000dsp. Unfortunately I know next to nothing about dsp so would someone be able to point me to somewhere where I can decipher what a DEQ and what a PEQ is. I have only entered in the HPF at the moment. And by the way, how do I increase the gain, they volume is quite low. Thanks!
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post #4214 of 5284 Old 09-28-2017, 04:42 AM
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Is it possible to use these with a lower powered dayton 18 DCS-450? I know basically nothing about parameters T/S Fs and those things. I will be combining this speaker with a dayton 250watt amp, and just wondered if these boxes would work with this setup. Thanks!
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post #4215 of 5284 Old 10-03-2017, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Heetxs View Post
Is it possible to use these with a lower powered dayton 18 DCS-450? I know basically nothing about parameters T/S Fs and those things. I will be combining this speaker with a dayton 250watt amp, and just wondered if these boxes would work with this setup. Thanks!
Large, ported subs generally produce bass efficiently compared to sealed designs or smaller drivers.
You will be surprised how much clean bass 250 watts will provide in this application...while you save up for a something with 4X the power to really make it pound.
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post #4216 of 5284 Old 10-04-2017, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oklahomie View Post
I was in your shoes just several weeks ago when I was planning my build. I too am running a dual voice coil 2ohm drivers.

Since you did not specify whether you were running them off a single channel, or each to their own channel (what I mean by channel, for reference, are the sets of A & B outputs on the back of the amp) I will provide wiring for both.

I found this Information by googling your driver, and then using the12volt.com as a reference for the wiring.

This configuration would be for both drivers wired to a SINGLE channel together:
The SI HT 18 D4 from 2015 had four posts. Would you use two speakon connectors on the back of a marty box?


I am thinking each box would have one in and one out. The last box in the daisy chain would get a jumper on the out to close the circuit. Would that be too much wiring?

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post #4217 of 5284 Old 10-05-2017, 02:32 PM
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MartySub FAQ

Quote:
Originally Posted by rfbrang View Post
The SI HT 18 D4 from 2015 had four posts. Would you use two speakon connectors on the back of a marty box?


I am thinking each box would have one in and one out. The last box in the daisy chain would get a jumper on the out to close the circuit. Would that be too much wiring?


The 4 post speakon posts have two sets of + and - connectors, which will work perfectly for whatever wiring combination you choose. I think having two would be unnecessary. I don’t see a problem if you wanted to go the two post route, but it’s not necessary.


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post #4218 of 5284 Old 10-11-2017, 01:39 PM
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Apologies for asking something that is probably answered already, but can't yet find the answer yet. A while ago I built the MiniMartys with UM18s, then went to a sealed 4ft setup, and now contemplating moving them up into a Full Marty.

For some reason I have lost all of my previous pictures, and the original videos in this thread are missing too, so can't remember if I did the Top last or Front last.
What is the order you normally did things ? I believe I went, first sides to bottom, then attach back, then ports .. and forgot from there, I assume maybe Top first, then bracing and then Front baffle ?

I also measured my clamps today, and they seem to be slightly longer than 30", but not nearly long enough for the 40" Mini Marty height. So I have no idea how I had actually done the clamping when gluing the top, lol. Maybe I have a longer clamp or two hiding somewhere.

Given the Full Marty is 48" high, would I need 48" clamps, would that fit enough, or do I need to go for a 60". I assume 2 to 3 48" would be enough, along with the several of my ~30" clamps I already have.
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post #4219 of 5284 Old 10-11-2017, 02:30 PM
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Never mind, I just saw this in literally post number 1

"
I generally build this path
* attach sides to bottom
* attach back to bottom (put baffle in to square up without glue)
* attach port bottom rails and then port bottom
* attach port back rails and then port back
* install bracing and then foam
* install baffle and then top
"

I am sure I will find info on the clamps if I keep digging, thinking about it maybe I had not used clamps when adding the top, or to push the front baffle on top of the bottom port.
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post #4220 of 5284 Old 10-11-2017, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by alextr75 View Post
Apologies for asking something that is probably answered already, but can't yet find the answer yet. A while ago I built the MiniMartys with UM18s, then went to a sealed 4ft setup, and now contemplating moving them up into a Full Marty.

For some reason I have lost all of my previous pictures, and the original videos in this thread are missing too, so can't remember if I did the Top last or Front last.
What is the order you normally did things ? I believe I went, first sides to bottom, then attach back, then ports .. and forgot from there, I assume maybe Top first, then bracing and then Front baffle ?

I also measured my clamps today, and they seem to be slightly longer than 30", but not nearly long enough for the 40" Mini Marty height. So I have no idea how I had actually done the clamping when gluing the top, lol. Maybe I have a longer clamp or two hiding somewhere.

Given the Full Marty is 48" high, would I need 48" clamps, would that fit enough, or do I need to go for a 60". I assume 2 to 3 48" would be enough, along with the several of my ~30" clamps I already have.

This might help!
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post #4221 of 5284 Old 10-11-2017, 06:04 PM
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This might help!
Thanks.

Yeah, saw that already a few times in 0.5x playback speed Looks like it is the best video of the process that can be currently found. I noticed he did not put any long clamps either the long way across. That is, no clamps to push down the front baffle, or the back to the bottom, or the top panel either .. likely what I have done earlier too.

Looks like his bracing is also minimal, would probably need a little more than that.

By the way, couple of question regarding the video if you don't mind and might know.

What is the blue stuff / cloth ? he nudged behind the top of the port back rails ? Did he ever glue those to the back panel ?

Also what was that spray can he sprayed across the port bottom rails before he put down the bottom port panel ?

Maybe I should try watching at 0.25x speed
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post #4222 of 5284 Old 10-11-2017, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by alextr75 View Post
...By the way, couple of question regarding the video if you don't mind and might know.

What is the blue stuff / cloth ? he nudged behind the top of the port back rails ? Did he ever glue those to the back panel ?

Painter's tape?
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post #4223 of 5284 Old 10-12-2017, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alextr75 View Post
Thanks.

Yeah, saw that already a few times in 0.5x playback speed Looks like it is the best video of the process that can be currently found. I noticed he did not put any long clamps either the long way across. That is, no clamps to push down the front baffle, or the back to the bottom, or the top panel either .. likely what I have done earlier too.

Looks like his bracing is also minimal, would probably need a little more than that.

By the way, couple of question regarding the video if you don't mind and might know.

What is the blue stuff / cloth ? he nudged behind the top of the port back rails ? Did he ever glue those to the back panel ?

Also what was that spray can he sprayed across the port bottom rails before he put down the bottom port panel ?

Maybe I should try watching at 0.25x speed
So to start off with this was simple a quick video we did to show the general procedure to assembly, basically what order is easiest. In this video he was not actually gluing or nailing anything in place and it was more of a "dry fit" to show the proper order.

Had he been doing this for real then yes, he likely would have rotated the box onto its side and used clamps along the long edge (at least until he was able to get brad nails in). And again for the other panels, rather than having to rotate the box a bunch in the video it was easier to just show panel assembly order, etc.

Also, he did not "mock up" any of the bracing. Generally I recommend at least 4 strips running front/back, side/side, and top/bottom.

The "blue stuff" was simply some painters tape he used to hold the back port rails in place so it looked like he had glued and nailed them down, again, not something you'd need to do during an actual assembly.

The "spray can" he pretended to use was black spray paint for inside the port, just showing that you want to be sure and do that step before you attach the port bottom otherwise it is much more difficult to paint the inside of the port.

Hopefully that made things more clear on the purpose and intent of the video. Let me know if you've got any other questions.
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post #4224 of 5284 Old 10-12-2017, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by squiers007 View Post
So to start off with this was simple a quick video we did to show the general procedure to assembly, basically what order is easiest. In this video he was not actually gluing or nailing anything in place and it was more of a "dry fit" to show the proper order.
Thank you, that explains everything, My expectations of it were probably too high.

Either way, seems like I do not own any clamps longer than 36", so have probably made my previous Mini Marty's without clamping across the 40".
Maybe for the front baffle , I would have been able to use the driver opening, so I don't need as long as a clamp, and can likely use the same for clamping at least one side of the top (assuming front baffle already in place), but still seems like a crappy / lazy way of doing things.

Probably the best thing to do would be get a few 48" clamps, I'd just need to drive across the border again, the ones selling here are expensive and probably overkill.I got the ones I have from Harbor Freight, so may visit the same place for a few 48".

What I am not sure about yet though, is, because the Full Marty is 48" high, will a (what they sell as a) "48inch" clamp be able to span across, or do I need to go with a 60" ? I do not think the 60" is that much more expensive, I guess it will just take up more space in my garage once stored after finishing everything, and things are already cramped as is, but in this case probably better safe than sorry.

Last edited by alextr75; 10-12-2017 at 11:37 AM.
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post #4225 of 5284 Old 10-12-2017, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by alextr75 View Post
Thank you, that explains everything, My expectations of it were probably too high.

Either way, seems like I do not own any clamps longer than 36", so have probably made my previous Mini Marty's without clamping across the 40".
Maybe for the front baffle , I would have been able to use the driver opening, so I don't need as long as a clamp, and can likely use the same for clamping at least one side of the top (assuming front baffle already in place), but still seems like a crappy / lazy way of doing things.

Probably the best thing to do would be get a few 48" clamps, I'd just need to drive across the border again, the ones selling here are expensive and probably overkill.I got the ones I have from Harbor Freight, so may visit the same place for a few 48".

What I am not sure about yet though, is, because the Full Marty is 48" high, will a (what they sell as a) "48inch" clamp be able to span across, or do I need to go with a 60" ? I do not think the 60" is that much more expensive, I guess it will just take up more space in my garage once stored after finishing everything, and things are already cramped as is, but in this case probably better safe than sorry.



According to their website, the 48" clamp has a 44" capacity. https://www.harborfreight.com/48-in-...amp-60540.html
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post #4226 of 5284 Old 10-14-2017, 02:41 PM
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Hi All,

Thanks for all of the info contained in this thread. I think I've gotten myself to a stopping point on my current enclosure design as I'm a little unsure on what's possible. The box itself is going to be made into something to resemble an apothecary so I have a finished exterior size in mind. This leaves me with an interior volume of of 16.3ft3 after supports, vent/supports, and driver are taken into consideration. I've attached a couple pics for reference. (Interior is 18.5in Wide x 28in Tall x 57in Long) [Front and Top Panels Hidden for clarity.

My questions are as follows:

1) Can I use two shorter vents with this design as I've shown?
My interior height is 28in so I'm somewhat limited in that area, current vent height at 25in
1a) Is there a specified distance I need to stay away from the top panel since I wont be making a 90deg turn with the vents? Currently at 4.5in.

2) I'd like to get the most out of my design so is there a particular tuning and/or vent length I need to be shooting for?
Current Vent Spec: 4x Wide x 18.5in Long x 25in Tall (From Second Baffle to Top of Vent)
Driver: SI HT18 v2 D2

3) Is 16.3ft3 too big for an internal volume to begin with???

My apologies if any of this has been covered before and I've got no clue about WINISD so any help is appreciated.
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post #4227 of 5284 Old 10-14-2017, 07:39 PM
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Hi All,

Thanks for all of the info contained in this thread. I think I've gotten myself to a stopping point on my current enclosure design as I'm a little unsure on what's possible. The box itself is going to be made into something to resemble an apothecary so I have a finished exterior size in mind. This leaves me with an interior volume of of 16.3ft3 after supports, vent/supports, and driver are taken into consideration. I've attached a couple pics for reference. (Interior is 18.5in Wide x 28in Tall x 57in Long) [Front and Top Panels Hidden for clarity.

My questions are as follows:

1) Can I use two shorter vents with this design as I've shown?
My interior height is 28in so I'm somewhat limited in that area, current vent height at 25in
1a) Is there a specified distance I need to stay away from the top panel since I wont be making a 90deg turn with the vents? Currently at 4.5in.

2) I'd like to get the most out of my design so is there a particular tuning and/or vent length I need to be shooting for?
Current Vent Spec: 4x Wide x 18.5in Long x 25in Tall (From Second Baffle to Top of Vent)
Driver: SI HT18 v2 D2

3) Is 16.3ft3 too big for an internal volume to begin with???

My apologies if any of this has been covered before and I've got no clue about WINISD so any help is appreciated.
That design will work well. The large box will give about 2db extra output around 20hz compared to the typical 12 cuft.
Your port design will give a 20 hz tune or a bit lower. All will be good...just put a high pass filter on it to limit sub-sonics.
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post #4228 of 5284 Old 10-14-2017, 08:45 PM
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Hi All,

Thanks for all of the info contained in this thread. I think I've gotten myself to a stopping point on my current enclosure design as I'm a little unsure on what's possible. The box itself is going to be made into something to resemble an apothecary so I have a finished exterior size in mind. This leaves me with an interior volume of of 16.3ft3 after supports, vent/supports, and driver are taken into consideration. I've attached a couple pics for reference. (Interior is 18.5in Wide x 28in Tall x 57in Long) [Front and Top Panels Hidden for clarity.

My questions are as follows:

1) Can I use two shorter vents with this design as I've shown?
My interior height is 28in so I'm somewhat limited in that area, current vent height at 25in
1a) Is there a specified distance I need to stay away from the top panel since I wont be making a 90deg turn with the vents? Currently at 4.5in.

2) I'd like to get the most out of my design so is there a particular tuning and/or vent length I need to be shooting for?
Current Vent Spec: 4x Wide x 18.5in Long x 25in Tall (From Second Baffle to Top of Vent)
Driver: SI HT18 v2 D2

3) Is 16.3ft3 too big for an internal volume to begin with???

My apologies if any of this has been covered before and I've got no clue about WINISD so any help is appreciated.
I am showing that 2 ports that size will give you a tune around 35hz when I put it into WINISD. I wonder if @DavidK442 used two ports when he modeled it?

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post #4229 of 5284 Old 10-15-2017, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by bscool View Post
I am showing that 2 ports that size will give you a tune around 35hz when I put it into WINISD. I wonder if @DavidK442 used two ports when he modeled it?
I assumed the 4" width was the combined total for both. Essentially two vents at 2 inches wide each is what I modeled.
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post #4230 of 5284 Old 10-15-2017, 06:07 AM
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I assumed the 4" width was the combined total for both. Essentially two vents at 2 inches wide each is what I modeled.
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Originally Posted by bscool View Post
I am showing that 2 ports that size will give you a tune around 35hz when I put it into WINISD. I wonder if @DavidK442 used two ports when he modeled it?
Sorry for any confusion. Each vent is 18.5" L x 4" W x 25" Tall. Do I need to shorten them both to 2" W for a lower tuning?

And is there a certain distance I need to keep the top of the vent from the bottom of the top panel. (This will end up being some sort of stone, not sure what but I figured if anything else it would help with adding some extra weight.)

Am I correct to assume that vent length includes the second baffle as shown?
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