MartySub FAQ - Page 146 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4351 of 5028 Old 03-20-2018, 09:11 PM
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The RSS390HO is back in stock and after my purchase there is 88 still in stock. Will be building two micro's very soon.

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post #4352 of 5028 Old 03-21-2018, 02:10 PM
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Can anyone confirm that as long as I keep the volume the same for both the cabinet and port I should be able to change the dimensions? Here is a pick of what Im going for (full marty). Both volumes are the same as the original plans. Port length is also the same.

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post #4353 of 5028 Old 03-21-2018, 05:39 PM
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Hi guys, it is possible to get a very similar performance in a sealed enclosure using the Dayton Audio UM18-22 and the BEHRINGER iNUKE NU3000DSP ?

I like from the graph that the red line have more gradual roll-off of all and my goal is to go as low as possible with clean output.

Martycube - RED
volume = 4.75 c.f. , tuning = 20hz
si 18 1100w


Last edited by jm10; 03-21-2018 at 07:20 PM.
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post #4354 of 5028 Old 03-22-2018, 06:42 AM
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I assume the Red is sealed Cube, what are the other colors?
All the same wattage and sized box/driver?

Why waste $ on more cheap stuff, it's like challenging a dragon with a pocket knife.
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post #4355 of 5028 Old 03-22-2018, 07:20 AM
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FAQ
1) What are the standard sizes with SPL chart

Microcube - green
volume = 3.75 c.f. , tuning = 23hz Dayton 390ho with 1100 watts

Martycube - red
volume = 4.75 c.f. , tuning = 20hz
si 18 1100w

Minimarty - blue
volume = 9.0 c.f. , tuning = 18hz ultimax 18 2000w**

Full Marty - black
volume = 11.0 c.f. , tuning = 17hz uxl18 2200w**
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post #4356 of 5028 Old 03-22-2018, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm10 View Post
Hi guys, it is possible to get a very similar performance in a sealed enclosure using the Dayton Audio UM18-22 and the BEHRINGER iNUKE NU3000DSP ?

I like from the graph that the red line have more gradual roll-off of all and my goal is to go as low as possible with clean output.

Martycube - RED
volume = 4.75 c.f. , tuning = 20hz
si 18 1100w


.The black line is about 11dB louder at 18 Hz

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post #4357 of 5028 Old 03-22-2018, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
.The black line is about 11dB louder at 18 Hz
Thanks, my target is the red line. Somebody recommended me WinISD so lets see if I can do it... I am just a newbie on all DIY stuff.
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post #4358 of 5028 Old 03-23-2018, 10:25 AM
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I ordered and received the RSS390HO 15" for my Micro. Now I have a question about the amp.. I need it to have a 12v trigger for a few reasons and my understanding is that the iNukes do not; I won't mod them either. So I have been looking at the Dayton SA-1000 which has a subsonic filter -3dB @18Hz when the Micro is tuned for 23Hz.. Do I risk damaging the 390HO with this amp? I don't play anywhere close to reference levels, usually -20 to -30 on my AVR (pre-out to Outlaw 5000). I do adjust the level on the sub (current single SVS SB-2000) to a bit higher than 75dB when initial setup, but not excessive. I will probably make a second Micro as well, just for extra smiles..

If this is not a good amp selection, please recommend something else with remote trigger connection. I've set aside a large budget, so hit me with the best match (one amp for both Micro's or one for each etc). Thanks!
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post #4359 of 5028 Old 03-23-2018, 02:56 PM
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MartySub FAQ

Quote:
Originally Posted by alinkous View Post
Can anyone confirm that as long as I keep the volume the same for both the cabinet and port I should be able to change the dimensions? Here is a pick of what Im going for (full marty). Both volumes are the same as the original plans. Port length is also the same.




Yes. As long as you don’t do something silly like make the port area tiny (yours looks fine) you’re gtg. Nice renders.


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post #4360 of 5028 Old 03-24-2018, 08:48 AM
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What driver are people using now on their marty builds? I want to build four full Marty's but the drivers most of you guys use aren't available. I'll pay a little more, but what's my best option at this point? I want to start building in the next 60-90 days, so theoretically, I could buy something currently on backorder.
Thanks in advance for the info.
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post #4361 of 5028 Old 03-24-2018, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
When you put a driver in a smaller box then is designed it performs poorly compared to what it could. I don't know the exact technical reasons why. That's a good question. Need ltd02 to chime in. The lab15 sub would work well for your cab. The 390ho would only work ok in 4.75. Thats getting big for that driver. I once asked ltd02 if I could build a martycube and use my 390ho in it and he modelled it and it wasn't good.
Then what could I be doing wrong? I'm charting a 390ho in both a 3.75 and 4.75 and I'm getting a steeper drop off starting at a higher frequency for the 390ho in the 3.75 as opposed to the 4.75.
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post #4362 of 5028 Old 03-24-2018, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alinkous View Post
Can anyone confirm that as long as I keep the volume the same for both the cabinet and port I should be able to change the dimensions? Here is a pick of what Im going for (full marty). Both volumes are the same as the original plans. Port length is also the same.
To clarify, it's not just the volume of the port, its the combination of port length and cross sectional area.
A long skinny port may have the same volume as a fat short port, but the tune would be completely different.
Because you made both the volume and length the same, then the cross section is the same so you are good to go.
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post #4363 of 5028 Old 03-24-2018, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post
To clarify, it's not just the volume of the port, its the combination of port length and cross sectional area.

A long skinny port may have the same volume as a fat short port, but the tune would be completely different.

Because you made both the volume and length the same, then the cross section is the same so you are good to go.


Fantastic. I was worried about port noise since it’s now only 1.5” tall instead of 3”.


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post #4364 of 5028 Old 03-24-2018, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spacemunkey View Post
What driver are people using now on their marty builds? I want to build four full Marty's but the drivers most of you guys use aren't available. I'll pay a little more, but what's my best option at this point? I want to start building in the next 60-90 days, so theoretically, I could buy something currently on backorder.
Thanks in advance for the info.


I just loaded my Marty cabs with hst’s and I can’t tell you the difference that made. Just build two and get hst’s. The cost difference won’t matter as much once you experience the difference. I’m gonna get ripped for not having enough power for mine, but there still much better then the ds4’s I’m coming from.
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post #4365 of 5028 Old 04-01-2018, 07:27 AM
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This may be a dumb question but does the position of the driver on the baffle matter? I am building a full Marty variant that is 60” high and plan to plan to position the 18” driver 5” from the port exit. Does this change the airflow, or matter, as it is not centered on the port entrance? How much airflow does the driver itself generate behind a false wall and AT screen? Is it just the port that generates airflow or does the driver also push air in front of the enclosure? Dumb questions but could change my build.
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post #4366 of 5028 Old 04-02-2018, 07:20 AM
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The Dayton SA1000 availability has pushed back another few weeks. Is there any other option, with a 12vt trigger, to power one RSS390HO 15" in a Micro Marty? I can get separate DSP if needed.
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post #4367 of 5028 Old 04-11-2018, 03:02 AM
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If I was wanting to make 8x 15" subs (around the size of the Cube), would the Marty Cube be a good option if I wanted solid performance (after EQ) down to 20hz 100+db (each)? If so, what would be the cheapest driver that could make this happen?

Last edited by Droogne; 04-11-2018 at 06:21 AM.
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post #4368 of 5028 Old 04-13-2018, 07:32 AM
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Quick question. I've searched this thread and haven't found an answer (not saying it isn't there, just haven't found it).

I'm thinking about building a couple of mini Martys. I'd like to lay them on their sides (horizontal). I've seen people putting the ports along the long bottom when going horizontal. Can the port remain on a short edge when laying the sub horizontal? Does the port have to be in the plane of the floor (next to the floor)?

I've got a couple of possible placement options for these. One would be horizontal, directly behind the only row of seating. The other would be vertical on either side of the seating against the side walls. If I just build a regular mini, I'm wondering of I can just turn it on it's side and be good to go. Thanks!
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post #4369 of 5028 Old 04-13-2018, 09:23 AM
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Ports can be any direction.
The only caveat is if the sub is behind a projection screen, you do not want it aimed directly at the screen.
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post #4370 of 5028 Old 04-13-2018, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Droogne View Post
If I was wanting to make 8x 15" subs (around the size of the Cube), would the Marty Cube be a good option if I wanted solid performance (after EQ) down to 20hz 100+db (each)? If so, what would be the cheapest driver that could make this happen?
How cheap is cheapest? Is $165 for the Dayton RSS390 series too expensive? Might be able to find a car sub with decent specs that'll to the trick. Harmon has a few at different times that worked well, not sure what's out there now.

Have you considered the VBSS design?
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post #4371 of 5028 Old 04-13-2018, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadowed View Post
Ports can be any direction.
The only caveat is if the sub is behind a projection screen, you do not want it aimed directly at the screen.
Thank you! That is what I was hoping for.
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post #4372 of 5028 Old 04-13-2018, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhodesj View Post
How cheap is cheapest? Is $165 for the Dayton RSS390 series too expensive? Might be able to find a car sub with decent specs that'll to the trick. Harmon has a few at different times that worked well, not sure what's out there now.

Have you considered the VBSS design?
I did! I'm looking at both the VBSS and MartySub for inspiration. The dayton does cost a bit more over here (250eu). I think I'm gonna model some known low buget/good performance subs in winISD and see what works best.
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post #4373 of 5028 Old 04-14-2018, 08:27 PM
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Ok i just finiahed reading all 4373 post in this thread and orignally i was thinking of making a down firing marty cube. But now i think i will be able to swing a down firing johnny sub.

Is there a big difference between two? Right now i really dont come near reference level. Maybe -28 at the loudest right now till i move into a new place. Also what would be the best choice for the speaker? It will be down firing so not 100 percent if that will matter. I am will be starting with one but will probably build another shortly after.

Thanks in advance.
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post #4374 of 5028 Old 04-14-2018, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Drichards650 View Post
Ok i just finiahed reading all 4373 post in this thread and orignally i was thinking of making a down firing marty cube. But now i think i will be able to swing a down firing johnny sub.

Is there a big difference between two? Right now i really dont come near reference level. Maybe -28 at the loudest right now till i move into a new place. Also what would be the best choice for the speaker? It will be down firing so not 100 percent if that will matter. I am will be starting with one but will probably build another shortly after.

Thanks in advance.
wow!


there isn't a big difference between sizes. the larger cabs are just a little better. go with whatever size works. not many downfiring builds. with downfiring, the suspension can sag over time. there is a rule of thumb calculation for that, but I don't recall it at the moment.
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post #4375 of 5028 Old 04-16-2018, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
... with downfiring, the suspension can sag over time. there is a rule of thumb calculation for that, but I don't recall it at the moment.

From Parts-Express:

https://www.parts-express.com/resour...-mount-up-down

Quote:
You can calculate the sag of a driver from:

Percentage of Sag = 24,849 / ( Xmax * Fs²)

where

- 24,849 is a constant value based on the relationship of acceleration due to gravity and Pi.
- Xmax is the maximum linear excursion of a loudspeaker voice coil while remaining within the magnetic flux field (mm).
- Fs is the free-air resonant frequency of the woofer (Hz).

The following is the same formula, including the relationship of acceleration and Pi in this case:

Percentage of Sag = 981,000 / (Xmax * (2 * Pi * Fs)²)

where

- 981,000 is acceleration due to gravity (mm/S²) * 100 (for the percentage).
- Xmax is the maximum linear excursion of a loudspeaker voice coil while remaining within the magnetic flux field (mm). - Fs is the free-air resonant frequency of the woofer (Hz)
- Pi is the ratio of a circle's circumference and diameter, usually rounded to 3.14.

As a general rule of thumb, any time the sag exceeds 5% of the driver's Xmax, it's not recommended for a down-firing subwoofer application.
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Last edited by Augerhandle; 04-16-2018 at 09:15 AM.
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post #4376 of 5028 Old 04-16-2018, 11:48 AM
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@Augerhandle
thanks!

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post #4377 of 5028 Old 04-16-2018, 04:30 PM
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So what seems to be the go to speaker for the johnny sub? I am still on the fence between a johny sub or a ultimax sealed. Just do to the fact that i am currently running a svs sb ultra 13 right now. But i am pushing for the johnny down firing.
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post #4378 of 5028 Old 04-18-2018, 06:49 PM
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Just finished reading all 4300+ posts, a lot of great info!



I am moving this May and the new space is 6000+ cubic feet. Listening is 60% movies and 40% music and I do setup my bass amp and practice in my listening area, so clean bass notes are desired.



The PA 460 seems to be the consensus for music, but does not have the low output vs the UM18-22. How do the UXL 18 and the HST18 II hold up for music playback?



WAF is mostly a concern with expense and fit and finish of the final product. I am already getting away with to EV 15 towers for fronts.

Stormbreaker a B&C 21DS115 Subwoofer Solution | Wisconsin Home Theater Meet Thread
You can always turn it down, but you can only turn it up so much (before you run out of power, excursion or structural integrity).
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post #4379 of 5028 Old 04-19-2018, 05:00 PM
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Sorry boys, gotta ask the same question I asked a few posts ago; can I lay a regular Mini Marty on it's side? The answer given was "yes".

Then I saw the post by alinkous above on this page where he re-dimension-ed the Full Marty for horizontal placement with the port along the bottom. I figured I could do that with the mini but it turns out that the port length is too long to go across what amounts to (when vertical) the side and the back.

I plan on placing these behind my only row of seats, four recliners. My thinking for putting the port along the bottom was that any SPL coming from the ports would be evenly distributed across the seats. As this would definitely be considered near-field, I thought it important.

So does it matter or am I over-analyzing this. If the Minis were placed far-field, then I can see where it doesn't matter. I wonder if it matters for near-field.

Thanks guys.
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post #4380 of 5028 Old 04-19-2018, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmccorm View Post
Thank you! That is what I was hoping for.


I have 21's firing through my screen. No problem. Ports are side firing.
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