MartySub FAQ - Page 166 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4951 of 5086 Old 04-03-2019, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nintari View Post
Quick Q on this.... And something I think should be added to the front page FAQ for others. When using Audyssey calibration setup.... Obviously the sub needs to be turned down, but Audyssey still turns the sub down more even when at it's subwoofer matching level on me to -9 to -7.5 (I've run setup a few times lol). Some people I see get pushed down all the way to -12 like whom you were responding to. Is it best to limit the input with the knob on the inuke, or set a -gain?? And next should we not aim for 75dB on the subwoofer level matching and go lower to say 65 or 55? Trying to get tuned fully now and going for maximum SPL
We like extra bass.

If Audyssey is setting bass at -12, we don't know if it's -12 or -20, because Audyssey only goes down to -12. You can turn the gain knobs down on the amp to get Audyssey to -6 or so, then tweak the gain later according to taste.


My last Audyssey run, I left my gains up, but did a 6 dB High pass at 60 Hz. After Audyssey calibration, I put everything back to normal. Bass sounds right, but I haven't done any REW sweeps since then.
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post #4952 of 5086 Old 04-04-2019, 07:59 AM
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I'm literally reading every post in this thread lol on page 31 now.

Trying to get as good of a grip on REW and levels and etc now. I went through last night and did another Audyssey calibration and set the input gain knob to about 1/4 way up and all gain off... came back and told me it was too low. I moved up and up on the gain knob while looking at the subwoofer matching and ended up one click below half way before it was happy. even with this it STILL set my damned sub to -9 lol

I then tried to up my receiver to -3 on the sub, set my knob on the nx3000d to 3/4 on and set my gain back to +5 dB

One of the first things I experimented with was the crossover and I tried 6dB butterworth instead of 12dB and it extended me out nicely (but I keep it at 12 because I haven't checked what the excursion effects would be)!

Experimenting further I noticed with my box if I set -3 dB 20Hz HS12 on the PEQ tab...... it has no desirable effect... I dont see any reason to leave it on as it isn't extending anything out.

-3 dB HS on PEQ vs off



Mid Bass comparison before I moved the sub


here are some graphs where I was messing with the volume going up 3dB each run seeing what I could see... I got to -3 on my receiver and had to stop. as I never went that high on my receiver before and REW said it was clipping. so I removed that graph. Odd that it says I was clipping on the Mic... or could it be I was clipping on the sub? the VU meters never went all the way or clipped / protected???



The issue is... when I played back an Atmos demo clip "Amaze".... it sounded like crap lol I backed down the sub back to -9 on the receiver I assume I was peaking and clipping but by this time (couldnt watch the screen to see if the VU meters were clipping) my fiancee was downstairs wanting to watch something and she couldn't stand the noise lol. so I couldn't play anymore.

****EDIT TO THE ABOVE*** I read that when you set the sub level manually it isnt adding to the - number that audyssey sets.... it bypasses it all together. so in my case audyssey set to -9 I thought ok I'll do +3 and that'll make it -6.... nope... I set the sub to +3 which is why I got clipping and it sounded like crap below ***EDIT DONE***

So do these graphs looks somewhat normal? Shouldn't I be seeing higher SPL? Looking through to see comparisons to others, however I know room acoustics come in to play as well (and tuning, and box design, and room size, furniture in room, how much weight I gain, dirty looks from the fiancee on why is it so loud etc)

Last edited by nintari; 04-06-2019 at 04:37 PM.
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post #4953 of 5086 Old 04-04-2019, 09:03 AM
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*Important information left out... duh

Base Measurements were taken with UMIK-1 at ear level listening position pointed toward the screen. I used REW signal generator to generate pink noise to L+R and the SPL meter in REW to get to 75dB. Left and right speakers disconnected.

Room is a mess... it is an unfinished basement concrete floors with cheap carpeting over it just to have somehting decent to step on for now. Room size is approx 22x24 with a stairwell in the middle of the room.

rough room layout (I roughed this together from the plans I had for when I finished so mad mspaint skills here lol) The Ported sub build is behind the PVC Screen directly across from the couch.



Box:


driver is UM18-22 and amp is a NX3000D bridged
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Last edited by nintari; 04-06-2019 at 04:44 PM.
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post #4954 of 5086 Old 04-05-2019, 10:29 PM
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Anyone used 12 mm ply for the full Marty with good results?

I'm thinking of using 12mm and just adding some more bracing and reinforcing.

12mm would make it easier to put together and easier to move around when complete.
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post #4955 of 5086 Old 04-05-2019, 11:43 PM
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Anyone used 12 mm ply for the full Marty with good results?

I'm thinking of using 12mm and just adding some more bracing and reinforcing.

12mm would make it easier to put together and easier to move around when complete.
high quality ply will work okay. Voids and loose plies can vibrate and buzz.

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post #4956 of 5086 Old 04-06-2019, 05:09 PM
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Doesn't show the sub much, but made a quick and dirty video to show the sub off a little. using a dB / SPL meter and playing Edge of Tomorrow opening From my current main listening position.
No wall behind the sub, under stairs, and it is sitting behind a PVC Screen...
My denon x4400 still sets the sub to -9 no matter how hard I try to not let it, but at -10dB on the reciever volume I still seem to clip a bit on EoT on the input, and output is actually a hair higher than input...
Right now set to +3 gain 20Hz 12dB Butterworth no other EQ as adding the -3 20Hz high shelf isnt extending me out at all.
I may knock back the +3 gain since the input is a tiny bit lower than output and I still clip a slight bit and hit the output limit even at -10dB volume on my x4400 (which should be 10 dB under reference if I understand correctly). Knob on the front of the behringer is 3/4 of the way up.

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post #4957 of 5086 Old 04-06-2019, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nintari View Post



Mid Bass comparison before I moved the sub





...So do these graphs looks somewhat normal? Shouldn't I be seeing higher SPL? Looking through to see comparisons to others, however I know room acoustics come in to play as well (and tuning, and box design, and room size, furniture in room, how much weight I gain, dirty looks from the fiancee on why is it so loud etc)
See what happens when you use PEQ to lower that broad hump between 25 Hz and 65 Hz. Try to get the 10 Hz to 80 Hz range flat or at a gentle slope (house curve). You will then be able to raise the gains slightly across the whole range. I suspect that some phase or delay tweaking will help that mess at 70-90 Hz.

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post #4958 of 5086 Old 04-07-2019, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
See what happens when you use PEQ to lower that broad hump between 25 Hz and 65 Hz. Try to get the 10 Hz to 80 Hz range flat or at a gentle slope (house curve). You will then be able to raise the gains slightly across the whole range. I suspect that some phase or delay tweaking will help that mess at 70-90 Hz.
I figured since I can't play at louder levels right now due to unfinished basement I'd eq a bit more once I get the sub moved closer to it's final location. I tend to play too much to learn and see effects lol. Placement right now is definitely not optimal due to it being under stairs in the middle of the unfinished basement. I even found out opening the basement window effects the curve currently. Basement is 528 SQ feet so volume is 4228 approximately

It seems as if right now I mainly peak the output at -10 on receiver mainly during music (play mask off by future on YouTube you'll see what I mean) and things like edge of tomorrow opening scene. It doesn't stay pegged but close enough to keep the red light on for 2-3 seconds at a time.

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post #4959 of 5086 Old 04-26-2019, 09:31 PM
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I screwed up and glued my recessed baffle inside-out. Any suggestions or what I can do to dissolve the glue or should I live with it as is?



Sincerely,
Dumbass.
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post #4960 of 5086 Old 04-26-2019, 11:38 PM
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I screwed up and glued my recessed baffle inside-out. Any suggestions or what I can do to dissolve the glue or should I live with it as is?



Sincerely,
Dumbass.
Screw the driver on, and don't tell anyone. A magician never gives away his secrets!
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post #4961 of 5086 Old 04-27-2019, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by brendelac View Post
I screwed up and glued my recessed baffle inside-out. Any suggestions or what I can do to dissolve the glue or should I live with it as is?

Sincerely,
Dumbass.
Sounds like something I would do. If you are making a grill then as said above just keep going with it because you won't ever see it again. The question is can you live with it? Nobody else will notice but will it make you crazy? I don't know of any way to dissolve the glue so you either have to cut it or make a new baffle that goes over the current one. If you make a new one cut the hole and recess like the original, but make the overall dimensions a touch bigger. Then you can use the router to flush trim it to the perfect fit.

Living with it is probably the easiest option. Explain to guests that mounting it that way brings the driver out in the room closer to where you sit and gives a tactile feel and helps pressurize the room. Not to mention the benefits of the increased circular volume of the cabinet.
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post #4962 of 5086 Old 04-27-2019, 07:48 AM
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Or just buy a full sheet and cut a bigger piece to cover the entire front face, because if you can flush trim the edges and ports it would give it a nice look so you can hide all the seams.
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post #4963 of 5086 Old 04-27-2019, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rec head View Post
Sounds like something I would do. If you are making a grill then as said above just keep going with it because you won't ever see it again. The question is can you live with it? Nobody else will notice but will it make you crazy? I don't know of any way to dissolve the glue so you either have to cut it or make a new baffle that goes over the current one. If you make a new one cut the hole and recess like the original, but make the overall dimensions a touch bigger. Then you can use the router to flush trim it to the perfect fit.

Living with it is probably the easiest option. Explain to guests that mounting it that way brings the driver out in the room closer to where you sit and gives a tactile feel and helps pressurize the room. Not to mention the benefits of the increased circular volume of the cabinet.
The space that I plan to use it is mostly out of sight and I will not be using a grill. It's more of knowing I made a mistake and wanting to correct it. My other martysub is recessed as well so it would be nice if they matched. I was googling and found a suggestion to use a heat gun and a clamp reversed as a spreader to try to soften the glue.

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post #4964 of 5086 Old 04-27-2019, 12:34 PM
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Like me and FriscoDTM said flush trimming a new baffle over the messed is probably the best bet. I don't see the glue softening enough to release but I don't know what glue you used.
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MartySub FAQ

Do what Auger suggested and just mount the driver.

It’s not worth possibly compromising the box integrity by trying to remove the glued baffle. You’ll soon get over any minor mistakes, especially if it’s out of site once it’s complete. I’ve scrapped several half glued cabs due to build mistakes, and while it’s frustrating, this is an easy fix. Heck, I didn’t even paint the bottom of my last three subs and I thought it’d bother me at first, but I could care less now that they’re in place pounding out some sweet bass.

Good luck!
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post #4966 of 5086 Old 04-27-2019, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rec head View Post
Like me and FriscoDTM said flush trimming a new baffle over the messed is probably the best bet. I don't see the glue softening enough to release but I don't know what glue you used.
Gorilla Glue.
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post #4967 of 5086 Old 05-02-2019, 07:25 PM
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Hi all, i am new to the subwoofer DIY. Looking forward to learn and plan to build 4 subs for my theater of 26 x 13.6 x 8 feet.

Each sub will be placed at the corner. I have no problem fitting full marty to the front corner but my rear baffle wall is only 22 inches deeps. I wonder should i change the dimension of the sub to fit my wall or just build the full marty anyway? If i change the dimension of the subwoofer box, is there going to be noticeable difference between front and rear subwoofers?

Thank you in advance.
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post #4968 of 5086 Old 05-02-2019, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thymine View Post
Hi all, i am new to the subwoofer DIY. Looking forward to learn and plan to build 4 subs for my theater of 26 x 13.6 x 8 feet.



Each sub will be placed at the corner. I have no problem fitting full marty to the front corner but my rear baffle wall is only 22 inches deeps. I wonder should i change the dimension of the sub to fit my wall or just build the full marty anyway? If i change the dimension of the subwoofer box, is there going to be noticeable difference between front and rear subwoofers?



Thank you in advance.
It is not that much work to modify the dimensions to your liking. I do not have a computer handy, but I can run some dimensions and stuff later if someone else does not beat me to it

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post #4969 of 5086 Old 05-02-2019, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thymine View Post
Hi all, i am new to the subwoofer DIY. Looking forward to learn and plan to build 4 subs for my theater of 26 x 13.6 x 8 feet.

Each sub will be placed at the corner. I have no problem fitting full marty to the front corner but my rear baffle wall is only 22 inches deeps. I wonder should i change the dimension of the sub to fit my wall or just build the full marty anyway? If i change the dimension of the subwoofer box, is there going to be noticeable difference between front and rear subwoofers?

Thank you in advance.
You can change dimensions, but to hit the expected tune you need to keep the internal volume and port area the same.

Here's a handy spreadsheet: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...alculator.html

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post #4970 of 5086 Old 05-02-2019, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by brendelac View Post
Gorilla Glue.
Don't bother as you'll either burn the mdf or tear it apart leaving <5mm of that mdf sheet still attached.
As others have said just do a new baffle over it, even in 5mm mdf if you don't want the added weight as No one will notice or just fit that sucker, sucker...do it, do it!
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post #4971 of 5086 Old 05-03-2019, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thymine View Post
Hi all, i am new to the subwoofer DIY. Looking forward to learn and plan to build 4 subs for my theater of 26 x 13.6 x 8 feet.

Each sub will be placed at the corner. I have no problem fitting full marty to the front corner but my rear baffle wall is only 22 inches deeps. I wonder should i change the dimension of the sub to fit my wall or just build the full marty anyway? If i change the dimension of the subwoofer box, is there going to be noticeable difference between front and rear subwoofers?

Thank you in advance.

48x30x20, it should fit behind the baffle wall. Just a little bit bigger than a full Marty, 1700 watts puts it out to 26mm of excursion, probably all the more you really want to push it. 2nd order HPF at 16Hz.
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post #4972 of 5086 Old 05-05-2019, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thymine View Post
Hi all, i am new to the subwoofer DIY. Looking forward to learn and plan to build 4 subs for my theater of 26 x 13.6 x 8 feet.

Each sub will be placed at the corner. I have no problem fitting full marty to the front corner but my rear baffle wall is only 22 inches deeps. I wonder should i change the dimension of the sub to fit my wall or just build the full marty anyway? If i change the dimension of the subwoofer box, is there going to be noticeable difference between front and rear subwoofers?

Thank you in advance.
What is the purpose of the rear baffle wall ?
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post #4973 of 5086 Old 05-05-2019, 11:16 PM
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Um...baffling? (I'm baffled as well)
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Probably to cut the sound down from the rest of the house and cordon off the area.
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post #4975 of 5086 Old 05-07-2019, 12:26 PM
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Finished up 2 Full Marty with the Ultimax 18's using the supplied instructions. Big improvement in bass from my single SVS sb 13 ultra which is now in the living room.
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Finished up 2 Full Marty with the Ultimax 18's using the supplied instructions. Big improvement in bass from my single SVS sb 13 ultra which is now in the living room.
Looks really good! I bet they rock.
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post #4977 of 5086 Old 05-07-2019, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jcmccorm View Post
Looks really good! I bet they rock.
Oh yes they shake the whole place, and I can say, I made that.
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post #4978 of 5086 Old 05-07-2019, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by thymine View Post
Hi all, i am new to the subwoofer DIY. Looking forward to learn and plan to build 4 subs for my theater of 26 x 13.6 x 8 feet.



Each sub will be placed at the corner. I have no problem fitting full marty to the front corner but my rear baffle wall is only 22 inches deeps. I wonder should i change the dimension of the sub to fit my wall or just build the full marty anyway? If i change the dimension of the subwoofer box, is there going to be noticeable difference between front and rear subwoofers?



Thank you in advance.


I would suggest changing the dimensions to suit your application. Here is a ported design tuned to 17hz, similar to a full Marty. Eng-399 modeled it for oklahomie and I borrowed it. It is slimmer and would fit your rear baffle depth:


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post #4979 of 5086 Old 05-10-2019, 02:40 AM
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Question about wiring the UM18-22 to my NX6000D amp: do I need to wire it in parallel or series? What's the advantage or downside of doing either?
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post #4980 of 5086 Old 05-10-2019, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Bnaan View Post
Question about wiring the UM18-22 to my NX6000D amp: do I need to wire it in parallel or series? What's the advantage or downside of doing either?

Parallel on a NX6000D - potential death of amp at least fail safe shutdown. Series on a NX6000D - lots of fun bass! A 6000 is good down to a nominal 4 Ohm load. When a UM18 is wired in series it has a 4 Ohm nominal load, which is what you need to be stable on the NX
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