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post #4981 of 5029 Old 05-10-2019, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Bnaan View Post
Question about wiring the UM18-22 to my NX6000D amp: do I need to wire it in parallel or series? What's the advantage or downside of doing either?

Parallel on a NX6000D - potential death of amp at least fail safe shutdown. Series on a NX6000D - lots of fun bass! A 6000 is good down to a nominal 4 Ohm load. When a UM18 is wired in series it has a 4 Ohm nominal load, which is what you need to be stable on the NX
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post #4982 of 5029 Old 05-10-2019, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Red Five View Post
Parallel on a NX6000D - potential death of amp at least fail safe shutdown. Series on a NX6000D - lots of fun bass! A 6000 is good down to a nominal 4 Ohm load. When a UM18 is wired in series it has a 4 Ohm nominal load, which is what you need to be stable on the NX
Whelp, that was an easy choice.. Thanks!
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post #4983 of 5029 Old 05-10-2019, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Leon! View Post
Did you end up getting one of these, and if so how has it been?
Ultimately went with the iNuke 6000dsp. I'm sure there's a willing guinea pig out there for the plate amp!
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post #4984 of 5029 Old 05-14-2019, 09:42 AM
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How important is lining the walls inside the Marty? Let's say I forgot this and glued everything together already, purely hypothetical of course, how bad would that be? Definitely required to get something in there through the driver hole, or not worth the effort? Again, hypothetically speaking.. I totally did not forget this..
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post #4985 of 5029 Old 05-14-2019, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Bnaan View Post
How important is lining the walls inside the Marty? Let's say I forgot this and glued everything together already, purely hypothetical of course, how bad would that be? Definitely required to get something in there through the driver hole, or not worth the effort? Again, hypothetically speaking.. I totally did not forget this..

It depends who you ask. If you are crossing under 100Hz, I would not worry about it.

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post #4986 of 5029 Old 05-14-2019, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Red Five View Post
It depends who you ask. If you are crossing under 100Hz, I would not worry about it.
On my AVR you mean? I always set crossover to 80Hz.
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post #4987 of 5029 Old 05-14-2019, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Bnaan View Post
On my AVR you mean? I always set crossover to 80Hz.

That is correct.

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post #4988 of 5029 Old 05-14-2019, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bnaan View Post
How important is lining the walls inside the Marty? Let's say I forgot this and glued everything together already, purely hypothetical of course, how bad would that be? Definitely required to get something in there through the driver hole, or not worth the effort? Again, hypothetically speaking.. I totally did not forget this..
I'm pretty sure that's how I did it on my cubes. Just went through the 18" hole. It was easy. Harder on the big Marty but it shouldn't be too bad if you've gotten this far. I wouldn't get crazy. If I couldn't reach something I would leave it.
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post #4989 of 5029 Old 05-15-2019, 01:46 PM
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Thanks for the replies!
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post #4990 of 5029 Old 05-18-2019, 03:11 PM
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hello. i have made dual full marty cabinets and drive im using is Um18-22. i have set high pass at 20hz , butterworth at 12db. now please tell me where should i set Threshold, Attack, release and frequency in Dynamic eq
in configuration where should i set Delay and peak limiter .
im asking these question cz when i play some songs the limit light blinks while the first green led stays stable and without moving the -6 and -3 light it just blinks the red limit light even when there was no bass. what this issue could be . hope someone can help me out to solve this issue. thanks
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post #4991 of 5029 Old 05-18-2019, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Five View Post
Series on a NX6000D - lots of fun bass! A 6000 is good down to a nominal 4 Ohm load.
I am building four 10.4 cubic feet Marty boxes with 1 UM-18 in each. I wired each of the coils in series for four 4 Ohm load boxes. Then I made a sereis splitter box to wire 2 boxes per channel on a NX6000D amp. That should make 8 Ohm loads on each channel of the amp.

Pics of the splitter box.

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post #4992 of 5029 Old 05-18-2019, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by subbuilds View Post
I am building four 10.4 cubic feet Marty boxes with 1 UM-18 in each. I wired each of the coils in series for four 4 Ohm load boxes. Then I made a sereis splitter box to wire 2 boxes per channel on a NX6000D amp. That should make 8 Ohm loads on each channel of the amp.



Pics of the splitter box.



Dude, that's legit! I may have to do that at some point.

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post #4993 of 5029 Old 05-18-2019, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Zeeshantariq View Post
hello. i have made dual full marty cabinets and drive im using is Um18-22. i have set high pass at 20hz , butterworth at 12db. now please tell me where should i set Threshold, Attack, release and frequency in Dynamic eq

in configuration where should i set Delay and peak limiter .

im asking these question cz when i play some songs the limit light blinks while the first green led stays stable and without moving the -6 and -3 light it just blinks the red limit light even when there was no bass. what this issue could be . hope someone can help me out to solve this issue. thanks
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...l#post27746249

-.5dbfs on the limiter is cool. Remember you need to add gain to counter the the high shelf filter.

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You can always turn it down, but you can only turn it up so much (before you run out of power, excursion or structural integrity).
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post #4994 of 5029 Old 05-19-2019, 10:30 AM
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looking for advice on micro boxes .. ive just completed a full marty box and realise its way to big... so it has to go ...

i have a few questions regarding the micro cubes i plan on making 2.

1. what subwoofer is best suited for a micro ?
2. how well do the micro perform ?
3. will the inuke3000dsp power 2 ?

im coming from a 12" subwoofer with 500rms amplifier. (BK ELECTRONICS MONOLITH PLUS) UK made...
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post #4995 of 5029 Old 05-19-2019, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Gaz5 View Post
looking for advice on micro boxes .. ive just completed a full marty box and realise its way to big... so it has to go ...



i have a few questions regarding the micro cubes i plan on making 2.



1. what subwoofer is best suited for a micro ?

2. how well do the micro perform ?

3. will the inuke3000dsp power 2 ?



im coming from a 12" subwoofer with 500rms amplifier. (BK ELECTRONICS MONOLITH PLUS) UK made...
Is the goal getting the absolute most out of that box? If so, I can sim some stuff when I get a chance.

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You can always turn it down, but you can only turn it up so much (before you run out of power, excursion or structural integrity).
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post #4996 of 5029 Old 05-19-2019, 12:18 PM
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Is the goal getting the absolute most out of that box? If so, I can sim some stuff when I get a chance.
just looking to get more bass than i had with 2 subs instead of 1 and micro martys fit in my spaces perfect withpout having to move my fronts to close to the TV.....
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post #4997 of 5029 Old 05-19-2019, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaz5 View Post
looking for advice on micro boxes .. ive just completed a full marty box and realise its way to big... so it has to go ...

i have a few questions regarding the micro cubes i plan on making 2.

1. what subwoofer is best suited for a micro ?
2. how well do the micro perform ?
3. will the inuke3000dsp power 2 ?

im coming from a 12" subwoofer with 500rms amplifier. (BK ELECTRONICS MONOLITH PLUS) UK made...
You really ought to fire up that Full Marty before deciding to throw all that work out the window. You just might make space concessions elsewhere once you've heard it.
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post #4998 of 5029 Old 05-19-2019, 03:39 PM
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You really ought to fire up that Full Marty before deciding to throw all that work out the window. You just might make space concessions elsewhere once you've heard it.
I actually might do that ...
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post #4999 of 5029 Old 05-20-2019, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaz5 View Post
looking for advice on micro boxes .. ive just completed a full marty box and realise its way to big... so it has to go ...

i have a few questions regarding the micro cubes i plan on making 2.

1. what subwoofer is best suited for a micro ?
2. how well do the micro perform ?
3. will the inuke3000dsp power 2 ?

im coming from a 12" subwoofer with 500rms amplifier. (BK ELECTRONICS MONOLITH PLUS) UK made...
As I said on your FB post, might as well give that full Marty a listen before you move on! Hook it up and take a few measurements so you can compare the full with the cubes should you go that route. Personally I'd stick with the full.
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post #5000 of 5029 Old 05-20-2019, 11:33 AM
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As I said on your FB post, might as well give that full Marty a listen before you move on! Hook it up and take a few measurements so you can compare the full with the cubes should you go that route. Personally I'd stick with the full.
Thanks mate. i have decided to stick with the FULL and make some more movements around in the room....
im getting use to it being so big in the room now. i suppose in a few weeks ill be thinking "it could be bigger"
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post #5001 of 5029 Old 05-20-2019, 11:37 AM
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i suppose in a few weeks ill be thinking "it could be bigger"
This is the way of things...

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post #5002 of 5029 Old 05-21-2019, 02:28 AM
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https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...l#post27746249

-.5dbfs on the limiter is cool. Remember you need to add gain to counter the the high shelf filter.
thanks for the guide . btw whats high shelf filter ?
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post #5003 of 5029 Old 05-21-2019, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Zeeshantariq View Post
thanks for the guide . btw whats high shelf filter ?

In this case it will push the high pass filter below 20Hz. If your tune is 17Hz for instance, you would use HS12 20hz -4.0db setting to push the high pass down to 16Hz. For each -1.0db it roughly pushes the high pass down 1Hz. That reclaims a lot of low end response and gets the most out of the sub woofer.

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You can always turn it down, but you can only turn it up so much (before you run out of power, excursion or structural integrity).
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post #5004 of 5029 Old 05-21-2019, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Gaz5 View Post
Thanks mate. i have decided to stick with the FULL and make some more movements around in the room....
im getting use to it being so big in the room now. i suppose in a few weeks ill be thinking "it could be bigger"
You mean "I need 2"
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post #5005 of 5029 Old 05-21-2019, 12:21 PM
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thanks for the guide . btw whats high shelf filter ?
Where a High Pass filter rolls off to zero, a shelf filter rolls to a point and the continues at that level.

Look at the first graph Post 68 in the linked thread.




The yellow line is the signal shape from the High shelf filter, and the slope is what we use to influence the roll off of the High pass filter. The red line is the signal shape from the 20 Hz High Pass filter. Combining that with the shelf filter creates the target curve (green line).

A side effect of the negative high shelf setting is that while reshaping the high pass to go lower in frequency, it actually lowers the dB level of everything above it, so you need to counter that with the virtual gain control.

Looking at the graph again, the original signal level was 118 dB. While the shelf re-shaped the High Pass curve, in doing so it lowered the levels to 106 dB. Setting the virtual gain knob (in the Filter/Crossover tab) to plus 12 dB puts the levels back to normal. The graph is an extreme example. Your box is tuned to around 17 Hz, so you would set the high shelf at about -4 and the virtual gain at +4.
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post #5006 of 5029 Old 05-27-2019, 04:40 AM
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8) What are the flashing lights on the inuke amp for ?

Their are four lights for each channel. First three are orange (power lights) and top one is red (clipping light). During heavy bass scenes its common for three power lights to flash or stay on. The red clipping light should only flash maybe a couple times a movie for a brief time. If the clipping light is coming on for two seconds straight the amp is in serious distortion. Here is a simple guide to setting the amps gains to avoid clipping your amp.
[url]http[/QUOTE]


hello can u please re share or URL its no mention im interested doin the setting .thanks
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post #5007 of 5029 Old 05-27-2019, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
Where a High Pass filter rolls off to zero, a shelf filter rolls to a point and the continues at that level.

Look at the first graph Post 68 in the linked thread.




The yellow line is the signal shape from the High shelf filter, and the slope is what we use to influence the roll off of the High pass filter. The red line is the signal shape from the 20 Hz High Pass filter. Combining that with the shelf filter creates the target curve (green line).

A side effect of the negative high shelf setting is that while reshaping the high pass to go lower in frequency, it actually lowers the dB level of everything above it, so you need to counter that with the virtual gain control.

Looking at the graph again, the original signal level was 118 dB. While the shelf re-shaped the High Pass curve, in doing so it lowered the levels to 106 dB. Setting the virtual gain knob (in the Filter/Crossover tab) to plus 12 dB puts the levels back to normal. The graph is an extreme example. Your box is tuned to around 17 Hz, so you would set the high shelf at about -4 and the virtual gain at +4.
thanks for the detailed msg . sorry i was bit busy in work thats y took so many days to be back here hope u dont mind.
okay ill do it as u said but no offense the diagram and the details u have told these really hard for me to understand. im really feelig embarrass to asking stupidly but i hope someone can hold my hand to take me to my target . im sharning all the pics the check them out and of possible let me where should i set the setting . thanks
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post #5008 of 5029 Old 05-27-2019, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Zeeshantariq View Post
thanks for the detailed msg . sorry i was bit busy in work thats y took so many days to be back here hope u dont mind.

okay ill do it as u said but no offense the diagram and the details u have told these really hard for me to understand. im really feelig embarrass to asking stupidly but i hope someone can hold my hand to take me to my target . im sharning all the pics the check them out and of possible let me where should i set the setting . thanks
If you are referring to where to set the High Shelf filter.....in the PEQ tab, in your -4 filter, change your Type drop-down to HS12.

If you are referring to what to set all of your PEQ filters to, that isn't something that can be done without measuring your in-room response first.

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post #5009 of 5029 Old 05-27-2019, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 4fit? View Post
If you are referring to where to set the High Shelf filter.....in the PEQ tab, in your -4 filter, change your Type drop-down to HS12.

If you are referring to what to set all of your PEQ filters to, that isn't something that can be done without measuring your in-room response first.

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thanks for the reply.. i have ordered UMIK-1 hopefully it will b delivered to me in 15days for rest of the filter v ccan set one ill share my response. till then as u have said i did it and pic attached plz confirm ive done it correctly or not . thanks
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post #5010 of 5029 Old 05-27-2019, 03:19 PM
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As 4fit? mentioned, you want to set Filter 1 to HS12 (the one that is already set to -4dB).

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...z-dcx2496.html
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