MartySub FAQ - Page 168 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5011 of 5080 Old 05-28-2019, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Zeeshantariq View Post
I have few more things to understand .
what would be the figures to put . plz see the attachment

That depends on where your subs are located. The one furthest away would get no delay, the closest does so both subs' output hit the listening position at the same time.

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post #5012 of 5080 Old 05-29-2019, 05:40 AM
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Hi Everyone noob here, been trying to get a bigger subwoofer for some time but can't afford it. i accidentally stumbled in to the DIY forums a couple of days ago and decided to take the plunge. i've been reading up as much as i can but i still have a few questions (i'm probably sure ill have more).

First off a bit of background, i currently live in Nigeria so i have to import 99% of my gear from the US or the UK which significantly adds to the cost. I have a dedicated room 8.97 ft wide, 8.75ft high and 14.15ft deep and would like to make 2 Marty cubes. I've ordered 2 ULM 18-22's which will get to me in about 2 months. i plan to power them with an XLS 1500 and XLS 1502 (both in bridge mode) and a miniDSP balanced 2X4 for filters and eq.

1. Can you have too much bass: Will 2 Marty cubes be too much for my room (8.98*8.75*14.15). i love bass and i used to think that you can never have enough bass, but i'm also worried that it might be way over kill for my room size.

2. Amp Power: Crown states that the xls 1500 & 1502 will put out 1550W in bridge mode.Considering that manufacturer specs are not always what they claim. Will the crowns be sufficient to power the ULM 18-22? I already own the crowns but if more power is needed i can get a NX600D.

3. Other alternatives to clamps: i plan to get a local carpenter to help me build the cabs and most i have spoken to don't have clamps to hold the pieces together. Pardon my ignorance but other than aesthetics why cant a nail and a hammer be used? we would use wood glue and some seal (silicone or adhesive bond) for all the seams. Based on my reading so far, some people used a brad nailer and didn't need clamps. I believe a brad nailer is a nail gun hence the question.

4. Front baffle: PE has the baffle cutout diameter for the ULM 18-22 at 16.75" so does that mean inner baffle for bracing = 16.75, inner front baffle = 16.75 and top/outer front baffle = 17.50 or ???

Thanks for taking the time.

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post #5013 of 5080 Old 05-29-2019, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shyyour View Post
Hi Everyone noob here, been trying to get a bigger subwoofer for some time but can't afford it. i accidentally stumbled in to the DIY forums a couple of days ago and decided to take the plunge. i've been reading up as much as i can but i still have a few questions (i'm probably sure ill have more).

First off a bit of background, i currently live in Nigeria so i have to import 99% of my gear from the US or the UK which significantly adds to the cost. I have a dedicated room 8.97 ft wide, 8.75ft high and 14.15ft deep and would like to make 2 Marty cubes. I've ordered 2 ULM 18-22's which will get to me in about 2 months. i plan to power them with an XLS 1500 and XLS 1502 (both in bridge mode) and a miniDSP balanced 2X4 for filters and eq.

1. Can you have too much bass: Will 2 Marty cubes be too much for my room (8.98*8.75*14.15). i love bass and i used to think that you can never have enough bass, but i'm also worried that it might be way over kill for my room size.

2. Amp Power: Crown states that the xls 1500 & 1502 will put out 1550W in bridge mode.Considering that manufacturer specs are not always what they claim. Will the crowns be sufficient to power the ULM 18-22? I already own the crowns but if more power is needed i can get a NX600D.

3. Other alternatives to clamps: i plan to get a local carpenter to help me build the cabs and most i have spoken to don't have clamps to hold the pieces together. Pardon my ignorance but other than aesthetics why cant a nail and a hammer be used? we would use wood glue and some seal (silicone or adhesive bond) for all the seams. Based on my reading so far, some people used a brad nailer and didn't need clamps. I believe a brad nailer is a nail gun hence the question.

4. Front baffle: PE has the baffle cutout diameter for the ULM 18-22 at 16.75" so does that mean inner baffle for bracing = 16.75, inner front baffle = 16.75 and top/outer front baffle = 17.50 or ???

Thanks for taking the time.

In smaller rooms you can get a lot of gain on the ultra low frequencies, which can bother some people. However, you have a miniDSP so if it is too much you can just EQ that to your liking. Subs can always be turned down!


Crown is not all that far off on their power ratings, so it will be in the ballpark. Is there any reason for just going with a Cube size of enclosure? Wood is usually cheaper than amplification


Are brad nailers available? You can use Premium Loctite 3X then just fire brad nails to hold the panels in place. 18awg 1 1/2" nails would do the trick.



Driver mounting specs are in this PDF - https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs...spec-sheet.pdf The outside baffle would be just a hair larger, like a 16th or an 8th of inch larger than the outside of the driver. 462mm for the outside edge and the inside edge appears to be 422mm according to Dayton's specs.

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post #5014 of 5080 Old 05-29-2019, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Five View Post
In smaller rooms you can get a lot of gain on the ultra low frequencies, which can bother some people. However, you have a miniDSP so if it is too much you can just EQ that to your liking. Subs can always be turned down!


Crown is not all that far off on their power ratings, so it will be in the ballpark. Is there any reason for just going with a Cube size of enclosure? Wood is usually cheaper than amplification


Are brad nailers available? You can use Premium Loctite 3X then just fire brad nails to hold the panels in place. 18awg 1 1/2" nails would do the trick.



Driver mounting specs are in this PDF - https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs...spec-sheet.pdf The outside baffle would be just a hair larger, like a 16th or an 8th of inch larger than the outside of the driver. 462mm for the outside edge and the inside edge appears to be 422mm according to Dayton's specs.
Thanks for your response. i'm constrained by space, my room is small i have a shelf up front for my center channel and about 28" or 30" inches to spare underneath it. I have a 3 seater recliner and not enough space between the recliner and the wall for deep subs (unless a cylindrical sub) so my only location for the sups now is up front underneath the center channel shelf. I also wanted something that wasnt too big so that if i decided to take it to my living room it wouldn't stick out too much

To be honest i have never seen a brad nailer here but im still asking around which is why i was asking if i could just use a hammer and a nail. im looking at prices for importing one from the UK if it isnt too expensive.

This pdf helps a lot, thanks again im very grateful.

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post #5015 of 5080 Old 05-29-2019, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shyyour View Post
Thanks for your response. i'm constrained by space, my room is small i have a shelf up front for my center channel and about 28" or 30" inches to spare underneath it. I have a 3 seater recliner and not enough space between the recliner and the wall for deep subs (unless a cylindrical sub) so my only location for the sups now is up front underneath the center channel shelf. I also wanted something that wasnt too big so that if i decided to take it to my living room it wouldn't stick out too much

To be honest i have never seen a brad nailer here but im still asking around which is why i was asking if i could just use a hammer and a nail. im looking at prices for importing one from the UK if it isnt too expensive.

This pdf helps a lot, thanks again im very grateful.

Not a problem! This would be an example of one at a store that is local to me - https://www.menards.com/main/tools/p...6016965&ipos=4

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post #5016 of 5080 Old 05-29-2019, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Red Five View Post
Not a problem! This would be an example of one at a store that is local to me - https://www.menards.com/main/tools/p...6016965&ipos=4
thank you again

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post #5017 of 5080 Old 05-30-2019, 01:34 PM
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I just finished my first Marty and wired it to my NX6000D to try it out. At first it didn't make any sound at all, and I started to panic a bit. But then I turned the input level all the way up and lo and behold, bass! So I'm wondering if this is normal? Does anyone need to max out the input level to get any output? Is there something wrong or does it simply mean I need to up the gain on my AVR?
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post #5018 of 5080 Old 05-30-2019, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Bnaan View Post
I just finished my first Marty and wired it to my NX6000D to try it out. At first it didn't make any sound at all, and I started to panic a bit. But then I turned the input level all the way up and lo and behold, bass! So I'm wondering if this is normal? Does anyone need to max out the input level to get any output? Is there something wrong or does it simply mean I need to up the gain on my AVR?
Are you talking about the knob on front of the NX6k? If so then yes, many have to turn them all the way up to get full voltage from their AVRs (it's an attenuator for the input signal). What AVR do you have?

Many bump the gain up in the NX/nu series as well.

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post #5019 of 5080 Old 05-30-2019, 04:53 PM
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Is my Marty cube bracing good enough? Baffle wall is 2 sheets of 3/4 mdf and 1 sheet of 5/8 osb, with 4 dowells. Thanks

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post #5020 of 5080 Old 05-31-2019, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
Are you talking about the knob on front of the NX6k? If so then yes, many have to turn them all the way up to get full voltage from their AVRs (it's an attenuator for the input signal). What AVR do you have?

Many bump the gain up in the NX/nu series as well.
That's the one, indeed. Does that mean I'm not getting the most out of the Marty or is it just a matter of getting the signal there, not how strong it is? My AVR is an Onkyo TX-NR509.
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post #5021 of 5080 Old 05-31-2019, 04:20 AM
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Is my Marty cube bracing good enough? Baffle wall is 2 sheets of 3/4 mdf and 1 sheet of 5/8 osb, with 4 dowells. Thanks

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Yep, looks great. Not a ton of bracing needed in the cube because of the smaller dimensions, should be very solid.
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post #5022 of 5080 Old 05-31-2019, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
Thanks



Yep per drill. I'm going to HD to pick up a 2x4 3/4 plywood. I'm going to cut a ring to glue to the baffle. That way it will be 1.5 inch with the bottom being ply which is stronger. Then if I have one strip later I can rotate the sub and re drill and mount.



I'm going to get #10 1.5-1.75. My acoustic grey foam came in today so I need some spray adhesive too.
I made a mistake spraying 3M adhesive in the living room. It smelled very bad. Do it outside if you can.

Last edited by cobr; 06-01-2019 at 02:41 PM.
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post #5023 of 5080 Old 06-03-2019, 10:24 AM
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I made a mistake spraying 3M adhesive in the living room. It smelled very bad. Do it outside if you can.
I used 3M Super 77 as well. The hairs on my arms stick to my skin just thinking about it. It's because it comes out as a mist. Since then, I've made some acoustic panels and found that Loctite spray adhesive comes out more like a webbing so there's less overspray.

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post #5024 of 5080 Old 06-05-2019, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Bnaan View Post
That's the one, indeed. Does that mean I'm not getting the most out of the Marty or is it just a matter of getting the signal there, not how strong it is? My AVR is an Onkyo TX-NR509.
What he means by that knob being an attenuator is that it's not like a volume knob, its a limiter. When that knob is all the way up, that means it's letting through all of the signal that is coming to it. When you turn it down to the first detent, you're only letting a little of the signal through.

The true volume control for your amp is your receiver, and its volume knob. This is modified by the subwoofer trim/level setting in your receiver's setup.

So don't think of it as turning the volume all the way up when you crank that knob. Instead, you're not limiting the volume.

Here's the process I went through to level match my 1000DSP with my receiver:

Set that attenuator knob at 50% and then run Audyssey. After running Audyssey, if your subwoofer level in your receiver setup menus is cranked all the way up, Audyssey thinks your sub is too quiet. Turn your attenuator knob up a few notches and re-run Audyssey. Keep doing this until Audyssey sets the sub level to about mid-way.

Likewise, if Audyssey sets the level all the way down on the sub channel, it thinks the sub is too loud. Lower your attenuator knob and re-run Audyssey.

If you can't get the volume up to reference, you might have to dig into the DSP config.

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post #5025 of 5080 Old 06-10-2019, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jevchance View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bnaan View Post
That's the one, indeed. Does that mean I'm not getting the most out of the Marty or is it just a matter of getting the signal there, not how strong it is? My AVR is an Onkyo TX-NR509.
What he means by that knob being an attenuator is that it's not like a volume knob, its a limiter. When that knob is all the way up, that means it's letting through all of the signal that is coming to it. When you turn it down to the first detent, you're only letting a little of the signal through.

The true volume control for your amp is your receiver, and its volume knob. This is modified by the subwoofer trim/level setting in your receiver's setup.

So don't think of it as turning the volume all the way up when you crank that knob. Instead, you're not limiting the volume.

Here's the process I went through to level match my 1000DSP with my receiver:

Set that attenuator knob at 50% and then run Audyssey. After running Audyssey, if your subwoofer level in your receiver setup menus is cranked all the way up, Audyssey thinks your sub is too quiet. Turn your attenuator knob up a few notches and re-run Audyssey. Keep doing this until Audyssey sets the sub level to about mid-way.

Likewise, if Audyssey sets the level all the way down on the sub channel, it thinks the sub is too loud. Lower your attenuator knob and re-run Audyssey.

If you can't get the volume up to reference, you might have to dig into the DSP config.
i don't have the minidsp yet for my mini marty's, but when i run audessey i start with my crown amp knobs at halfway. But audessey has me turn them down to about the 8 o'clock position because half way it thinks it's to loud. When outs done my sub trim shows -3. How can i get audessey to set trim at 0 ?
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post #5026 of 5080 Old 06-11-2019, 08:02 AM
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Is it possible to build one of these to take a plate amp? Thanks!
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post #5027 of 5080 Old 06-11-2019, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayouslim77 View Post
i don't have the minidsp yet for my mini marty's, but when i run audessey i start with my crown amp knobs at halfway. But audessey has me turn them down to about the 8 o'clock position because half way it thinks it's to loud. When outs done my sub trim shows -3. How can i get audessey to set trim at 0 ?

Running with a negative number on the sub output channel is recommended. You do not want the signal to clip before reaching the amplifier. If you want to dig deeper into the integration I highly suggest giving this a read.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...eferences.html
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post #5028 of 5080 Old 06-11-2019, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayouslim77 View Post
i don't have the minidsp yet for my mini marty's, but when i run audessey i start with my crown amp knobs at halfway. But audessey has me turn them down to about the 8 o'clock position because half way it thinks it's to loud. When outs done my sub trim shows -3. How can i get audessey to set trim at 0 ?
Make small adjustments on the Crown and run Audyssey again.

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post #5029 of 5080 Old 07-01-2019, 03:14 AM
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Hi guys! I must to reconfigure the position of my 4 Front stage Minimartys( now they are two vertically and two stacked horizontally, above the two,like in the attached pic) and need your opinion on how’s the best position when all4 must be vertically ( two right and two on the left from the center channel) i think if it is an ideal position of the ports, if there is a benefit when the ports are together, like in figure 1; which from the 3 do you think is ideal?
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post #5030 of 5080 Old 07-02-2019, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by ultrabubu View Post
Hi guys! I must to reconfigure the position of my 4 Front stage Minimartys( now they are two vertically and two stacked horizontally, above the two,like in the attached pic) and need your opinion on how’s the best position when all4 must be vertically ( two right and two on the left from the center channel) i think if it is an ideal position of the ports, if there is a benefit when the ports are together, like in figure 1; which from the 3 do you think is ideal?
Stack them vertically with port facing to the side to avoid shaking your screen

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post #5031 of 5080 Old 07-07-2019, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ultrabubu View Post
Hi guys! I must to reconfigure the position of my 4 Front stage Minimartys( now they are two vertically and two stacked horizontally, above the two,like in the attached pic) and need your opinion on how’s the best position when all4 must be vertically ( two right and two on the left from the center channel) i think if it is an ideal position of the ports, if there is a benefit when the ports are together, like in figure 1; which from the 3 do you think is ideal?
Quote:
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Stack them vertically with port facing to the side to avoid shaking your screen

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In front-loaded horn configuration you will have better results with the ports together because they will more closely mimic a larger combined horn. But considering you have your ports basically spaced evenly on the wall, instead of corner-loading them all, I'm not sure you'll see any effect of that.

There's only one way to find out, measure all options. The room shapes basically mess with every ideal well-laid plan and make huge deadspots where you don't want them.

I would however wager the loser will be the one where you have one port at the top of the stack, because in that case the average radiation angle of your ports will be worse than the other configurations. I think all three options will beat your current configuration though. By a hair (by more than that the closer to the corners you put them).
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cms, aka driver diaphragm suspension mechanical compliance: 0.000065 meter/Newton or in standard form 6.5e-05 m/N. (smaller number is better)
rms, aka driver diaphragm suspension mechanical resistance: 6.41 Newton.sec/meter. (higher number is better)
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post #5032 of 5080 Old 07-10-2019, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ronny31 View Post
In front-loaded horn configuration you will have better results with the ports together because they will more closely mimic a larger combined horn. But considering you have your ports basically spaced evenly on the wall, instead of corner-loading them all, I'm not sure you'll see any effect of that.

There's only one way to find out, measure all options. The room shapes basically mess with every ideal well-laid plan and make huge deadspots where you don't want them.

I would however wager the loser will be the one where you have one port at the top of the stack, because in that case the average radiation angle of your ports will be worse than the other configurations. I think all three options will beat your current configuration though. By a hair (by more than that the closer to the corners you put them).
You think that positioning them like in fig.1 would be the best and fig.2 the worst, is that right?
If you see on that picture,there are some possible “obstacles” in the way of the drivers and ports in form of panels that masc the screen and the woodwork that sustain the screen; what is more important, that you have no obstacle ( beside the acoustic transparent screen) between the ports and the room or between the drivers and the room, or are both same important as well? When the masking is mounted, it look like in the pic below
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post #5033 of 5080 Old 07-24-2019, 02:34 PM
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I want to do a mini Marty end table build but I am struggling with ideas for feet with the slot port design. Any ideas?

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post #5034 of 5080 Old 07-24-2019, 06:06 PM
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I want to do a mini Marty end table build but I am struggling with ideas for feet with the slot port design. Any ideas?

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post #5035 of 5080 Old 07-24-2019, 09:04 PM
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I want to do a mini Marty end table build but I am struggling with ideas for feet with the slot port design. Any ideas?

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This is how mine turned out. Just ripped some hemlock 2x4's. Gave me about 3" clearance.
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post #5036 of 5080 Old 07-25-2019, 07:07 AM
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I want to do a mini Marty end table build but I am struggling with ideas for feet with the slot port design. Any ideas?

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If you make the port side the back side, you can just move the legs further inboard. It isn't gonna tip over.
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post #5037 of 5080 Old 07-30-2019, 08:27 AM
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My GSG Mini-Marty Um18 subs with pair of bridged NX3000d. They sound amazing and hit deep and hard. I am beyond impressed and for about $1000 each nothing I have ever heard (or felt) can touch these subs at anywhere near this price. They are very large but once I added the grills to everything my wifes initial reaction of "I'm moving to my own house" was put on ice. I love DIY!
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post #5038 of 5080 Old 07-30-2019, 08:49 AM
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My GSG Mini-Marty Um18 subs with pair of bridged NX3000d. They sound amazing and hit deep and hard. I am beyond impressed and for about $1000 each nothing I have ever heard (or felt) can touch these subs at anywhere near this price. They are very large but once I added the grills to everything my wifes initial reaction of "I'm moving to my own house" was put on ice. I love DIY!
Looks good! Please show us the grille construction.

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post #5039 of 5080 Old 07-30-2019, 03:03 PM
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My GSG Mini-Marty Um18 subs with pair of bridged NX3000d. They sound amazing and hit deep and hard. I am beyond impressed and for about $1000 each nothing I have ever heard (or felt) can touch these subs at anywhere near this price. They are very large but once I added the grills to everything my wifes initial reaction of "I'm moving to my own house" was put on ice. I love DIY!


Man those look fantastic!! Exactly the look I’m going go with my full Marty’s...what size routing bit did you use, and did you use duratex?


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post #5040 of 5080 Old 07-30-2019, 08:04 PM
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Man those look fantastic!! Exactly the look I’m going go with my full Marty’s...what size routing bit did you use, and did you use duratex?


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I used 1-1/2" roundover on the sides, 3/4" on top and bottom, 1/2" on slot port, and 1/4" on all the other edges. 2 coats of shellac primer and 3 coats sprayed on Duratex diluted about 15% with water sanding with 220-600 between coats.
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