MartySub FAQ - Page 169 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5041 of 5086 Old 08-01-2019, 06:50 PM
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Looks good! Please show us the grille construction.
For some reason it won't let me upload all my pics, the few I have of grill const. will not upload.
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post #5042 of 5086 Old 08-07-2019, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ultrabubu View Post
You think that positioning them like in fig.1 would be the best and fig.2 the worst, is that right?
If you see on that picture,there are some possible “obstacles” in the way of the drivers and ports in form of panels that masc the screen and the woodwork that sustain the screen; what is more important, that you have no obstacle ( beside the acoustic transparent screen) between the ports and the room or between the drivers and the room, or are both same important as well? When the masking is mounted, it look like in the pic below
sorry for late response.

Yes, if the port is in free air (like the top port will be in fig2) then it will have the least loading from the wall. But room mojo could give that the best output because in-room response is funny sometimes compared to the theoretical ideal in infinite radiation situations. Hence why measuring is always the correct answer.

I have no idea how acoustically transparent projector screens are these days, I would assume that as long as they're light enough to flap around when the bass hits then there is no difference if the screen blocks the ports or not. The main difference will be how close to the corners you place the ports. I would place ports down on all enclosures and shimmy them as near to the corners as possible, then measure it and move them towards the center of the wall slowly, each time measuring the response in all listening positions. Then do it again with the bottom enclosures having their ports on top. All else being equal and in ideal circumstances I bet you'd have best results with the first with the ports about half a port width from the corner, but due to room mojo the second could be better for a naturally flat response (since its impossible to boost low points in in-room response).
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cms, aka driver diaphragm suspension mechanical compliance: 0.000065 meter/Newton or in standard form 6.5e-05 m/N. (smaller number is better)
rms, aka driver diaphragm suspension mechanical resistance: 6.41 Newton.sec/meter. (higher number is better)
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post #5043 of 5086 Old 08-21-2019, 01:07 PM
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Dual Marty Setup For Medium Theater

Ok,

So im building a new house with dedicated theater room. It is not huge 11.5x17x10 ~2000ft^3 and i am going to be building 2 subs. This room is just for movies tv and gaming so this is a true theater setup. I was looking at going with 2 Johnnysub size boxes with UM18. I could possibly build a minimarty if i shrink the height to 32 inches like the johnny (if someone has a cut list that would be great. The subs will be on the front wall at 1/4 room width. I will be using a custom amp with dsp that i am building with 1500W RMS per channel so i'm not too worried about the amp setup. Does this sound like overkill for the room setup? Would I be ok running a marty cube with some EQ? Just starting to play with cabinet size and design but since there is only 11.5 on the theater wall and i will be running a projector things are getting a bit tight. Really looking for those movie and game lfe hits. For reference the system is a 7.2.4 with a denon 7200wa and kef R series front 3 and Ci200RS-THX for surrounds and Ci200RR-THX for atmos.

Thanks
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post #5044 of 5086 Old 08-22-2019, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by emcnicholas View Post
Ok,

So im building a new house with dedicated theater room. It is not huge 11.5x17x10 ~2000ft^3 and i am going to be building 2 subs. This room is just for movies tv and gaming so this is a true theater setup. I was looking at going with 2 Johnnysub size boxes with UM18. I could possibly build a minimarty if i shrink the height to 32 inches like the johnny (if someone has a cut list that would be great...
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post #5045 of 5086 Old 09-08-2019, 09:44 AM
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Edit... so I got these dropped in last night and connected and wow they sound awesome and have some power! Just trying to figure out how to balance them and get them running good but not too much for the amp. I had the red light come on a few times in the amp in heavy bass scenes. One struggle is my sub output two is split and also running another amp with shakers in the couch. Any advice on setting the knobs on the nx6000d and the avr sub trim. Just want to make sure I’m not going to hurt them or the amp I set a limited for 1500 watts in the amp should I do that or leave the limiter off? Doesn’t seem there is much action on this thread anymore.


So I just built two Mini Marty’s over the last few days. I am getting the Dayton ultimax 18 tomorrow to put them in. I have the behringer nx6000d and all the cables to connect it to my Denon 4500h. Can anyone tell me simply the settings in the the amp. I know this is the same as the inuke 6000. If someone can show pics that would be awesome. I think I’m on the right track though from reading other threads but a good tried and true setting for the xover would be good. Thanks! Can’t wait to try these out! Coming from two BIC America f12 subs. Any other tips I’m open. I have a lot to learn!
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post #5046 of 5086 Old 09-09-2019, 06:54 PM
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Got them installed. Now to play with the amp settings and see if I can get these figures out!
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post #5047 of 5086 Old 09-10-2019, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Huntmx24 View Post
Got them installed. Now to play with the amp settings and see if I can get these figures out!
GSG has some good tips on setting the amps for the Marty's. Look under the specific model you built and then see the FAQ section. If you haven't downloaded the software from Behringer do that...makes adjusting the amp settings much easier.
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post #5048 of 5086 Old 09-10-2019, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Huntmx24 View Post
Got them installed. Now to play with the amp settings and see if I can get these figures out!
GSG has some good tips on setting the amps for the Marty's. Look under the specific model you built and then see the FAQ section. If you haven't downloaded the software from Behringer do that...makes adjusting the amp settings much easier.
I have checked that out. I will try that’s. I have also seen this screen shot some recommend do I do this screen shot?
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post #5049 of 5086 Old 09-10-2019, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Huntmx24 View Post
I have checked that out. I will try that’s. I have also seen this screen shot some recommend do I do this screen shot?
Not sure about that particular screen shot but under your particular Marty they have recommended settings (might not be exact but a template). That screen shot comes from the software from which you can control everything on the Behringer. I'm a rookie and figuring it out as I go but just installed two 21" Full Marty's and have been dialing things in for a few days. Setting the HP protective filter and the limiter seem to be the more critical to protecting the driver. Might tag some of the GSG guys in a thread to see if they will chime in.
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post #5050 of 5086 Old 09-10-2019, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Huntmx24 View Post
I have checked that out. I will try that’️s. I have also seen this screen shot some recommend do I do this screen shot?
Not sure about that particular screen shot but under your particular Marty they have recommended settings (might not be exact but a template). That screen shot comes from the software from which you can control everything on the Behringer. I'm a rookie and figuring it out as I go but just installed two 21" Full Marty's and have been dialing things in for a few days. Setting the HP protective filter and the limiter seem to be the more critical to protecting the driver. Might tag some of the GSG guys in a thread to see if they will chime in.
I wouldn’t know who to tag but that would be nice. Yea just trying to get mine dialed in. Seems it the avr trim and front knobs are up too much the input clips so if you back those off should I increase the gain to the channels in the software? Pretty confusing stuff but once figured out should be nice
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post #5051 of 5086 Old 09-10-2019, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Huntmx24 View Post
I have checked that out. I will try that’s. I have also seen this screen shot some recommend do I do this screen shot?
That would be a high shelf filter to extend the high pass lower than 20Hz.

First, you should have a HPF at 20Hz (as low as you can set it in the NU/NX). Then you would apply the above filter if your cab is tuned below 20Hz, to extend to the tuning point or just below. What are those cabs tuned to?

The rest of the PEQ filters would be adjusted based on what your measuring shows you in your room. Have you measured them yet? You don't want to try to push any dips up, only bring peaks down.
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post #5052 of 5086 Old 09-10-2019, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Huntmx24 View Post
I have checked that out. I will try that’️s. I have also seen this screen shot some recommend do I do this screen shot?
That would be a high shelf filter to extend the high pass lower than 20Hz.

First, you should have a HPF at 20Hz (as low as you can set it in the NU/NX). Then you would apply the above filter if your cab is tuned below 20Hz, to extend to the tuning point or just below. What are those cabs tuned to?

The rest of the PEQ filters would be adjusted based on what your measuring shows you in your room. Have you measured them yet? You don't want to try to push any dips up, only bring peaks down.
Ah that makes sense. I need to get a mic to run rew still. I think this mini Marty is tuned to 17hz.
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post #5053 of 5086 Old 09-11-2019, 11:58 AM
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I did more testing with ready player one race scene and bumble bee action scenes.

I have the two knobs on the front two clicks past half way and the avr sub trim to 0. It sounds awesome and hits hard. But on some loud bass drops the front lights hit the limiter. I am going to get my computer to see what is going on in more detail. From the manual on the nx6000d it says it’s ok to tickle the limit light as long as it’s not constant. So is this ok for the limit light to hit? I will test tonight with a computer if it’s the input signal hitting the limit or the out put. Any advice would be great.
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post #5054 of 5086 Old 09-11-2019, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Huntmx24 View Post
I did more testing with ready player one race scene and bumble bee action scenes.

I have the two knobs on the front two clicks past half way and the avr sub trim to 0. It sounds awesome and hits hard. But on some loud bass drops the front lights hit the limiter. I am going to get my computer to see what is going on in more detail. From the manual on the nx6000d it says it’s ok to tickle the limit light as long as it’s not constant. So is this ok for the limit light to hit? I will test tonight with a computer if it’s the input signal hitting the limit or the out put. Any advice would be great.
Did you see my reply in the other thread?

Remove the limiter, you don't need it, and it's just going to make you hit the limit light before you're at full capability.

Then set your sub trim nice and low (around -10dB is good) and then increase the amp knobs until your subs are back at the level you want them to be. Then keep doing what you're doing with the RP1 race scene and see what happens with your limit lights. The low sub trim will protect you against AVR clipping and amp input clipping.

It's perfectly fine to hit the limit lights on the loudest hits. Even with the limiter "disabled" it still kicks in right at the point where the amp starts to clip. They designed it to always be a safeguard against hard clipping.

Take the Red Pill (BassEQ) BassEQ Demo Clips
Video: Sony 85" X900F @ 80" eyes-to-screen (49.4° viewing angle)
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Subs: The Two Towers (HT18 32cf 11.5Hz x 2), UM18 4cf x 2, Crowson MAs x 4
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post #5055 of 5086 Old 09-11-2019, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Huntmx24 View Post
I did more testing with ready player one race scene and bumble bee action scenes.

I have the two knobs on the front two clicks past half way and the avr sub trim to 0. It sounds awesome and hits hard. But on some loud bass drops the front lights hit the limiter. I am going to get my computer to see what is going on in more detail. From the manual on the nx6000d it says it’️s ok to tickle the limit light as long as it’️s not constant. So is this ok for the limit light to hit? I will test tonight with a computer if it’️s the input signal hitting the limit or the out put. Any advice would be great.
Did you see my reply in the other thread?

Remove the limiter, you don't need it, and it's just going to make you hit the limit light before you're at full capability.

Then set your sub trim nice and low (around -10dB is good) and then increase the amp knobs until your subs are back at the level you want them to be. Then keep doing what you're doing with the RP1 race scene and see what happens with your limit lights. The low sub trim will protect you against AVR clipping and amp input clipping.

It's perfectly fine to hit the limit lights on the loudest hits. Even with the limiter "disabled" it still kicks in right at the point where the amp starts to clip. They designed it to always be a safeguard against hard clipping.
Hey thanks for the response. I did remove the limiter and I did try what you said. I will give that a shot again. I think it’s dialed pretty good but I have just been worried cause I’m some threads some people say it shouldn’t hit the limit light but maybe that is for the older model inuke. And in the manual it said it’s ok to tickle the red.so I’m ready player 1 race scene when the TRex stomps is it ok for it to bounce the red limit light briefly. I’ll remember how I have it now and give your advice another try. I hope to get a laptop so I can see what is going on with the lights in more detail. But from my testing so far the bass how I want it touches the red light on the loudest scenes. This is with my main avr volume at 72/-8 dB
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post #5056 of 5086 Old 09-11-2019, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by aron7awol View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huntmx24 View Post
I did more testing with ready player one race scene and bumble bee action scenes.

I have the two knobs on the front two clicks past half way and the avr sub trim to 0. It sounds awesome and hits hard. But on some loud bass drops the front lights hit the limiter. I am going to get my computer to see what is going on in more detail. From the manual on the nx6000d it says it’️s ok to tickle the limit light as long as it’️s not constant. So is this ok for the limit light to hit? I will test tonight with a computer if it’️s the input signal hitting the limit or the out put. Any advice would be great.
Did you see my reply in the other thread?

Remove the limiter, you don't need it, and it's just going to make you hit the limit light before you're at full capability.

Then set your sub trim nice and low (around -10dB is good) and then increase the amp knobs until your subs are back at the level you want them to be. Then keep doing what you're doing with the RP1 race scene and see what happens with your limit lights. The low sub trim will protect you against AVR clipping and amp input clipping.

It's perfectly fine to hit the limit lights on the loudest hits. Even with the limiter "disabled" it still kicks in right at the point where the amp starts to clip. They designed it to always be a safeguard against hard clipping.
Oh just remembered this. I actually did what you said first but the problem was I also have shakers with a Dayton sa230 amp in the couch. And when I put the sub trim too -10 I had to max the shaker amp volume but it wasn’t at the level I like it. So I went back and turned the knobs on the front of the nx too half the back to 0 in the avr then played the race scene till they were where I wanted. I also used my dB meter with the test tone. The channel that isn’t split for the shakers needs to be +1 in the avr to have the output the same on the subs. So I think it should be pretty good. But just been confused about hitting the limit. Cause when it hits thst barely on the low notes it sounds oh soo good! I am am only 3/4 on my shaker amp so I could maybe take the avr down to -5 and then max my shaker output to be where I want it. But man my system is sounding so good with these two new subs and the shakers with 7.2.4 atmos setup loving it.

Last edited by Huntmx24; 09-11-2019 at 12:42 PM.
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post #5057 of 5086 Old 09-11-2019, 12:55 PM
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Hey thanks for the response. I did remove the limiter and I did try what you said. I will give that a shot again. I think it’s dialed pretty good but I have just been worried cause I’m some threads some people say it shouldn’t hit the limit light but maybe that is for the older model inuke. And in the manual it said it’s ok to tickle the red.so I’m ready player 1 race scene when the TRex stomps is it ok for it to bounce the red limit light briefly. I’ll remember how I have it now and give your advice another try. I hope to get a laptop so I can see what is going on with the lights in more detail. But from my testing so far the bass how I want it touches the red light on the loudest scenes. This is with my main avr volume at 72/-8 dB
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huntmx24 View Post
Oh just remembered this. I actually did what you said first but the problem was I also have shakers with a Dayton sa230 amp in the couch. And when I put the sub trim too -10 I had to max the shaker amp volume but it wasn’t at the level I like it. So I went back and turned the knobs on the front of the nx too half the back to 0 in the avr then played the race scene till they were where I wanted. I also used my dB meter with the test tone. The channel that isn’t split for the shakers needs to be +1 in the avr to have the output the same on the subs. So I think it should be pretty good. But just been confused about hitting the limit. Cause when it hits thst barely on the low notes it sounds oh soo good! I am am only 3/4 on my shaker amp so I could maybe take the avr down to -5 and then max my shaker output to be where I want it. But man my system is sounding so good with these two new subs and the shakers with 7.2.4 atmos setup loving it.
Yes, I would definitely recommend you set the sub trim as low as you can while still hitting your desired output levels on the shakers. -5 is much better than 0. And don't worry about hitting the limiter, that's what it's there for. It reduces the signal level to a safe level to protect the amp and drivers.

Take the Red Pill (BassEQ) BassEQ Demo Clips
Video: Sony 85" X900F @ 80" eyes-to-screen (49.4° viewing angle)
Audio: Denon AVR-X4400H 7.2.4 Atmos
Mains: Fusion-15 LR, Fusion-8 Center, Ported Volt-10 Surrounds, Custom 45°/45° Double-Angled Ported Volt-6 Atmos
Subs: The Two Towers (HT18 32cf 11.5Hz x 2), UM18 4cf x 2, Crowson MAs x 4
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post #5058 of 5086 Old 09-11-2019, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Huntmx24 View Post
Hey thanks for the response. I did remove the limiter and I did try what you said. I will give that a shot again. I think it’️s dialed pretty good but I have just been worried cause I’️m some threads some people say it shouldn’️t hit the limit light but maybe that is for the older model inuke. And in the manual it said it’️s ok to tickle the red.so I’️m ready player 1 race scene when the TRex stomps is it ok for it to bounce the red limit light briefly. I’️ll remember how I have it now and give your advice another try. I hope to get a laptop so I can see what is going on with the lights in more detail. But from my testing so far the bass how I want it touches the red light on the loudest scenes. This is with my main avr volume at 72/-8 dB
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huntmx24 View Post
Oh just remembered this. I actually did what you said first but the problem was I also have shakers with a Dayton sa230 amp in the couch. And when I put the sub trim too -10 I had to max the shaker amp volume but it wasn’️t at the level I like it. So I went back and turned the knobs on the front of the nx too half the back to 0 in the avr then played the race scene till they were where I wanted. I also used my dB meter with the test tone. The channel that isn’️t split for the shakers needs to be +1 in the avr to have the output the same on the subs. So I think it should be pretty good. But just been confused about hitting the limit. Cause when it hits thst barely on the low notes it sounds oh soo good! I am am only 3/4 on my shaker amp so I could maybe take the avr down to -5 and then max my shaker output to be where I want it. But man my system is sounding so good with these two new subs and the shakers with 7.2.4 atmos setup loving it.
Yes, I would definitely recommend you set the sub trim as low as you can while still hitting your desired output levels on the shakers. -5 is much better than 0. And don't worry about hitting the limiter, that's what it's there for. It reduces the signal level to a safe level to protect the amp and drivers.
Sounds good. I will just max my shaker amp then lower the avr sub trim to where I like it then level match the subs and to from there with more testing. Thanks so much for the advice. Any other tips? I want to get a mic to use rew but that will be down the road a bit once I get comfortable me learn more. I still want to add acoustic treatments so I’ll do that when I get those installed
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post #5059 of 5086 Old 09-15-2019, 10:43 PM
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I have two mini Marty’s. And I want to thank the few that gave me feed back on setup. I learned a lot and I’m freakin loving these bad boys.

Question for others with a similar setup. Mine have the ultimax 18. Has anyone found the need to add two 12” subs to the system to balance out the upper range as well? I have two BIC America f12 that I have for sell locally but no one is biting on them so I just wonder if I should keep them and add them to the system. It sure it’s needed cause these ultimax seem to do pretty well
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post #5060 of 5086 Old 09-16-2019, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Huntmx24 View Post
I have two mini Marty’s. And I want to thank the few that gave me feed back on setup. I learned a lot and I’m freakin loving these bad boys.

Question for others with a similar setup. Mine have the ultimax 18. Has anyone found the need to add two 12” subs to the system to balance out the upper range as well? I have two BIC America f12 that I have for sell locally but no one is biting on them so I just wonder if I should keep them and add them to the system. It sure it’s needed cause these ultimax seem to do pretty well
The best use for them would probably be to put them right behind your seat back as VNF.

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post #5061 of 5086 Old 09-20-2019, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by lavakv View Post
Ultimately went with the iNuke 6000dsp. I'm sure there's a willing guinea pig out there for the plate amp!
I built a Mini Marty with plate amp a few years ago, used on of these:
http://www.bkelec.com/MODULES/extreme1000.htm

Only have 1 in my room and I think a second might improve consistency of bass response. Will wait until I have some REW measurements though.
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post #5062 of 5086 Old 09-25-2019, 02:19 PM
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What is the consensus about port length, looking at a full marty? Currently, the first page says 36" with a monster port volume equal to a 9 1/4" circle (which seems far excessive - port velocity barely passes 12m/s at 1kW). Looking through older posts, it looks like it used to be longer and was updated with this information about end correction:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...so-simple.html

For a 3x22.5x36 port to tuned to 17hz, the end correction would have to be 2.28 vs winisd's 0.732. At 0.732, winisd calls for a 50.2" length for that port volume, so the difference between winisd and the first post is 14.2", which is a huge difference. If winisd's value is correct, using a 36" port would result in a 19.6Hz.

So has anyone actually tested their boxes tuned frequency with one of the given lengths?

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post #5063 of 5086 Old 09-25-2019, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradthebold88 View Post
What is the consensus about port length, looking at a full marty? Currently, the first page says 36" with a monster port volume equal to a 9 1/4" circle (which seems far excessive - port velocity barely passes 12m/s at 1kW). Looking through older posts, it looks like it used to be longer and was updated with this information about end correction:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...so-simple.html

For a 3x22.5x36 port to tuned to 17hz, the end correction would have to be 2.28 vs winisd's 0.732. At 0.732, winisd calls for a 50.2" length for that port volume, so the difference between winisd and the first post is 14.2", which is a huge difference. If winisd's value is correct, using a 36" port would result in a 19.6Hz.

So has anyone actually tested their boxes tuned frequency with one of the given lengths?
The first page shows a port length of 41.5" for a Full Marty.

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Last edited by Augerhandle; 09-25-2019 at 03:04 PM. Reason: corrected port length
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post #5064 of 5086 Old 09-25-2019, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
The first page shows a port length of 42.5" for a Full Marty.
Where at? All I saw is this, "If you choose a full size marty with ~11 cubic and a slot port that is 3" tall and 22.5" wide (24"minus to slot braces at 0.75" each) and 36" long, the cross-sectional area of the port is 3" * 22.5" = 67.5 square inches."

If you add up the port bottom and port back and measure down the middle of that length, I get 41.5" I think, which is another different number. 20.25 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 0.75 + 17.5

41" comes out to a correction value of 1.74, close to the 1.75 LTD02 came up with the in post I linked.

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post #5065 of 5086 Old 09-25-2019, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by bradthebold88 View Post
Where at? All I saw is this, "If you choose a full size marty with ~11 cubic and a slot port that is 3" tall and 22.5" wide (24"minus to slot braces at 0.75" each) and 36" long, the cross-sectional area of the port is 3" * 22.5" = 67.5 square inches."

If you add up the port bottom and port back and measure down the middle of that length, I get 41.5" I think, which is another different number. 20.25 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 0.75 + 17.5
I mis-typed, it is 41.5. I will edit my previous post. It's also easier to just sum the lengths of the port rails to get the correct port length.

I think the number 36" was used to show that the port area was unaffected by length. If you read through the first 100 pages of the thread, you'll also find several typos and incorrect info from the first page was discussed and corrected.

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Last edited by Augerhandle; 09-25-2019 at 03:10 PM.
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post #5066 of 5086 Old 09-25-2019, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
I mis-typed, it is 41.5. I will edit my previous post.

I think the number 36" was used to show that the port area was unaffected by length. It's also easier to just sum the lengths of the port rails to get the correct port length.
Ok, that makes sense. 36" was just a random number, but when used specifically referring to the full marty and its actual port cross section made it confusing. I will go with the cutlist numbers then. Thanks

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post #5067 of 5086 Old 09-25-2019, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
... If you read through the first 100 pages of the thread, you'll also find several typos and incorrect info from the first page was discussed and corrected.
For example, in the cut lists, both the Micro and Martycube list 3 baffle pieces, when only 2 are required, while the Minimarty and Full marty list only 1 Bottom Rail, when 2 are required.
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post #5068 of 5086 Old 09-25-2019, 04:12 PM
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I'm going to go with a 2.5" tall port. With the 1.75 correction factor, that is 32.75" long. I get 0.55cf more box volume and don't need such a big port. It also pushes the first port resonance higher and it's only a peak of 14.75m/s velocity.

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post #5069 of 5086 Old 09-26-2019, 03:17 PM
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Could someone run the following in Winsid for me. I cant get the program to work for me: 5.4 cu ft.port 17.5x 2.5 x 40inches with a um 15.
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post #5070 of 5086 Old 09-27-2019, 09:11 AM
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I reloaded winsid but cant a port to the design.
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