MartySub FAQ - Page 175 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 1716Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #5221 of 5284 Old 05-11-2020, 09:49 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 11
aha! - i agree, if you're the slave tasked with the set-up, good bear is definitely worthwhile!

doug s.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Heide264 View Post
I wasn't evaluating the audio gear - just seeing if any points line up
dougie s. is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #5222 of 5284 Old 05-11-2020, 09:52 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 11
oh, and fwiw, my present subs weigh in at 140lbs ea, and no spikes or even feet, on my concrete slab floor.

main speakers are on wood boards, not spiked, but with very small rubber feet to concentrate the load.

doug s.
dougie s. is offline  
post #5223 of 5284 Old 05-11-2020, 09:37 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Augerhandle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: About 25" away from my computer screen
Posts: 5,736
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1457 Post(s)
Liked: 1425
My speaker spikes are guaranteed to keep African elephants out of the basement (Guarantee valid only in the U.S.A. on Tuesdays of months with an R in their name).


You don't have to believe me, just try it and see!
Heide264 likes this.

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
_____________________ http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/auger-handle/ ________________________
Augerhandle is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #5224 of 5284 Old 05-12-2020, 12:49 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 11
well, you think that's a big deal? MY speakers, spiked or not, will keep african elephants out of the basement in the usa, 24/7/365! so THERE!!!

doug s.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
My speaker spikes are guaranteed to keep African elephants out of the basement (Guarantee valid only in the U.S.A. on Tuesdays of months with an R in their name).

You don't have to believe me, just try it and see!
dougie s. is offline  
post #5225 of 5284 Old 05-12-2020, 04:19 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
rec head's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,564
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 392 Post(s)
Liked: 393
You guys are going to be so embarrassed when you have elephants in your basements.

mesasone and Augerhandle like this.
rec head is online now  
post #5226 of 5284 Old 05-12-2020, 10:12 AM
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 659
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Liked: 592
I think this might be a good place to post this question but of course please feel free to redirect me if I'm wrong.
Twin Devastators are on the way. I have a Behringer NX6000D that will be driving them. I'm looking for a way to rig up a remote trigger for it so it doesn't have to stay on all the time. I'm not good with soldering or building anything electronic. Is there a solution? Thanks as always, guys.
Gary Mertz is offline  
post #5227 of 5284 Old 05-12-2020, 10:26 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 143
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 77 Post(s)
Liked: 17
I have two different size Dayton drivers
My question is this. Has anyone tried making a box the can use two different size drivers
So basically it’s two boxes in one
I have a large spot in between my couches, so my wife is give me the green light to make one large sub that would go in that spot. The area could be like 4‘ x 4‘ in as high as 3 feet and I was thinking of using the 15 inch Titan driver and a 12 inch Dayton HO driver, and have them both use their own separate sealed compartments inside the one large box, and each one of the drivers being in a slot loaded ported cabinet


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
hessc50 is online now  
post #5228 of 5284 Old 05-12-2020, 11:12 AM
Advanced Member
 
Witchboard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 597
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 224 Post(s)
Liked: 209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Mertz View Post
I think this might be a good place to post this question but of course please feel free to redirect me if I'm wrong.
Twin Devastators are on the way. I have a Behringer NX6000D that will be driving them. I'm looking for a way to rig up a remote trigger for it so it doesn't have to stay on all the time. I'm not good with soldering or building anything electronic. Is there a solution? Thanks as always, guys.
I replaced one of my wall outlets with a z-wave controlled outlet and turn my NU6000DSP on and off via Alexa. It does have the infamous pop when I turn it off, but I have my amp behind my TV and I'm not able to reach the power button easily. It's been working fine since I put it in.

Rumble & Frenzy - My Mini-Marty Build
Screaming Eagles - My Fusion-15 Sentinel Build
Witchboard is offline  
post #5229 of 5284 Old 05-12-2020, 12:08 PM
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 659
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Liked: 592
Quote:
Originally Posted by Witchboard View Post
I replaced one of my wall outlets with a z-wave controlled outlet and turn my NU6000DSP on and off via Alexa. It does have the infamous pop when I turn it off, but I have my amp behind my TV and I'm not able to reach the power button easily. It's been working fine since I put it in.
Good thought. I'm concerned though about the draw from the amp when its running full out. It will be plugged into its own 20-amp circuit so the available power will be just fine.
Gary Mertz is offline  
post #5230 of 5284 Old 05-12-2020, 05:52 PM
Senior Member
 
LGERIC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Macomb, MI
Posts: 253
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 132 Post(s)
Liked: 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Mertz View Post
Good thought. I'm concerned though about the draw from the amp when its running full out. It will be plugged into its own 20-amp circuit so the available power will be just fine.
I tried a master/slave power supply that gave a loud thump. After that I just turn them off manually. I run both my 6k and 3k through a cheap power supply that has no problem running the 6k and a 3k at the same time.

Last edited by LGERIC; 05-12-2020 at 05:58 PM.
LGERIC is offline  
post #5231 of 5284 Old 05-13-2020, 08:40 AM
Advanced Member
 
Witchboard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 597
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 224 Post(s)
Liked: 209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Mertz View Post
Good thought. I'm concerned though about the draw from the amp when its running full out. It will be plugged into its own 20-amp circuit so the available power will be just fine.
Mine is just plugged into a regular 15 Amp circuit and hasn't tripped the breaker in the 3 years I've been running it (knock on wood). I supposed I may not listen as loud as others do though.

Rumble & Frenzy - My Mini-Marty Build
Screaming Eagles - My Fusion-15 Sentinel Build
Witchboard is offline  
post #5232 of 5284 Old 05-13-2020, 04:17 PM
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 659
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Liked: 592
There must be a solution that doesn't cause that thump when it switches off, yes?
Gary Mertz is offline  
post #5233 of 5284 Old 05-14-2020, 07:58 AM
Member
 
Heide264's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 171
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Liked: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Mertz View Post
There must be a solution that doesn't cause that thump when it switches off, yes?
I believe any relay type device that toggles on a zero crossing of the input voltage will remove the thump on power on or off. Most decent solid state relays will have that functionality baked, from what I've found. I remember seeing a thread that used a beefy SSR inside of a small wiring enclosure. The enclosure was built to accept a 3.5mm trigger wire from an AVR to toggle the power. On one side of the enclosure was a 3 prong plug for wall power and on the other side was a 3 prong female plug for the amp.
Gary Mertz likes this.
Heide264 is offline  
post #5234 of 5284 Old 05-21-2020, 02:55 PM
Member
 
lyle2321's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 16
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by a77cj7 View Post
Modeled it in HR. Looks good.
UM18 on 1000w
18hz 2nd order HPF
Tune: 18.9hz
Cone excursion: 19mm
Port velocity: 17m/s


On 1000w, you can take the hpf down to 15hz without excursion or velocity going excessive.

Chris
Wondering if I could get some help - I found the Marty Subwoofer excel spread sheet - I'm looking to build a "mini-marty" sub using the Dayton UM18-22 driver -

Not sure what to use for box size and more specifically the Port Length?
I was thinking of using a box size of 40 H x 25 W x 23.3 D.
Is there a program used to calculate the optimal port length for a specific driver?
lyle2321 is offline  
post #5235 of 5284 Old 05-21-2020, 04:06 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
a77cj7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Sturgis, SD
Posts: 1,914
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1020 Post(s)
Liked: 1075
Quote:
Originally Posted by lyle2321 View Post
Wondering if I could get some help - I found the Marty Subwoofer excel spread sheet - I'm looking to build a "mini-marty" sub using the Dayton UM18-22 driver -

Not sure what to use for box size and more specifically the Port Length?
I was thinking of using a box size of 40 H x 25 W x 23.3 D.
Is there a program used to calculate the optimal port length for a specific driver?

Winisd is what most people use for modeling.

Port length depends on box volume and port area for a specific tune.

Port area needs to be large enough to control port velocity for a given driver and input power.

Chris
a77cj7 is online now  
post #5236 of 5284 Old 05-23-2020, 06:41 AM
Newbie
 
spooble's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 12
If you've been waiting on a sale on the Ulitmax UM18-22, today is your day! $275 through Monday (and don't forget the 25 off 250 coupon). Just ordered mine!
4fit? and dRwOOD73 like this.
spooble is offline  
post #5237 of 5284 Old 05-23-2020, 11:39 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
CZ Eddie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Austin TX, USA
Posts: 7,293
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 135 Post(s)
Liked: 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by spooble View Post
(and don't forget the 25 off 250 coupon). Just ordered mine!
Where do you get the $25-off coupon from?

"The boom is dead, long live the bass"
CZ Eddie is offline  
post #5238 of 5284 Old 05-23-2020, 12:02 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
smcmillan2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Farmington, MI, USA
Posts: 2,560
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1148 Post(s)
Liked: 968
Quote:
Originally Posted by CZ Eddie View Post
Where do you get the $25-off coupon from?
These have worked for me in the past https://www.offers.com/parts-express/
CZ Eddie likes this.

Sub builds: Yet another Infinity 1260 build | Twins! | Modified V.B.S.S. build | UM12-22 builds | AV stand and sealed UM18s

Speaker builds: DIYSG HTM-10 build | DIYSG Volt-6 build | DIYSG Fusion-8 builds
smcmillan2 is online now  
post #5239 of 5284 Old 05-24-2020, 06:03 AM
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 659
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Liked: 592
Quick question. When I predrill the holes to mount the driver I use a 1/8" bit, yes?
Gary Mertz is offline  
post #5240 of 5284 Old 05-26-2020, 04:59 AM
Member
 
Heide264's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 171
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Liked: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Mertz View Post
Quick question. When I predrill the holes to mount the driver I use a 1/8" bit, yes?
Unless I missed it somewhere up in the thread, the pilot holes for the drivers would depend on the hardware you are using to secure the driver.
Gary Mertz likes this.
Heide264 is offline  
post #5241 of 5284 Old 05-26-2020, 05:30 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
rec head's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,564
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 392 Post(s)
Liked: 393
rec head is online now  
post #5242 of 5284 Old 05-26-2020, 12:24 PM
Member
 
lyle2321's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 16
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 0
ok - Hoping someone can help out ----
I have purchased the Dayton Audio UM18-22 subwoofer, and plan on using a Behringer NX6000D to power the system.
I have determined that I would like cabinet dimensions of - 41.5 H x 24 W x 23.5 D ---- and have input this into the Box Volume calculator and it produces a volume of approximately 8.7 cu ft. (depending on port length).

I have input the data into WinISD application in an attempt to determine proper port length (I have started with 3 inch port height) and the application says to use a 47 inch port length (which seems very long) ....



What I am unclear about - is what is the optimal tuning frequency for the UM18 driver (or is this just personal preference) --- I would like to get some decent low frequency extension - below 20 Hz (I was thinking of 18 Hz tuning frequency??) .... I also know that you need to watch port velocity --- presumably the velocity increases as the port size is reduced.
Based on my external cabinet size, I was really hoping someone could help me determine the best port height, and length ?
Thank you in advance.
lyle2321 is offline  
post #5243 of 5284 Old 05-27-2020, 04:23 AM
Member
 
Heide264's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 171
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Liked: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by lyle2321 View Post
I have determined that I would like cabinet dimensions of - 41.5 H x 24 W x 23.5 D ---- and have input this into the Box Volume calculator and it produces a volume of approximately 8.7 cu ft. (depending on port length).

What I am unclear about - is what is the optimal tuning frequency for the UM18 driver (or is this just personal preference) --- I would like to get some decent low frequency extension - below 20 Hz (I was thinking of 18 Hz tuning frequency??) .... I also know that you need to watch port velocity --- presumably the velocity increases as the port size is reduced.
Based on my external cabinet size, I was really hoping someone could help me determine the best port height, and length ?
Thank you in advance.
So the cabinet size you picked is only a hair larger than the standard mini-marty build noted on page 1 of this thread. I don't mean to offend you at all, but based off your questions, I'd recommend just going with the mini marty rather than trying to customize it too much at this point. You'll have some great performance just as the sub was designed. Ported boxes aren't overly complicated, but considering your cabinet size is so close to an already solid design, I'd just go with the mini-marty. The four build sizes on the first page were designed to work well between acoustic parameters, material efficiency, and amplifier 'friendliness'.

For what it's worth, your port length does seem long to me from my memory, but I didn't model anything. If you really need the cabinet to be that exact size for some reason, we can help you out more with the details of it though.
Heide264 is offline  
post #5244 of 5284 Old 05-27-2020, 08:30 AM
Member
 
lyle2321's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 16
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 0
No offense taken ---- I'm really just looking for assistance with design --- I was hoping to use the exact cabinet size (41.5 H x 24 W x 23.5 D) - just so it fits better into my room. Perhaps I am wrong, however I would have thought that the port height and port length should be customized based on the type, size, and specification of the driver (subwoofer driver) - to ensure optimal functionality??
Anyone else available to help ..... please ....
lyle2321 is offline  
post #5245 of 5284 Old 05-28-2020, 12:13 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Augerhandle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: About 25" away from my computer screen
Posts: 5,736
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1457 Post(s)
Liked: 1425
Quote:
Originally Posted by lyle2321 View Post
No offense taken ---- I'm really just looking for assistance with design --- I was hoping to use the exact cabinet size (41.5 H x 24 W x 23.5 D) - just so it fits better into my room. Perhaps I am wrong, however I would have thought that the port height and port length should be customized based on the type, size, and specification of the driver (subwoofer driver) - to ensure optimal functionality??
Anyone else available to help ..... please ....
From the first post in this thread:

Quote:
Minimarty - blue
volume = 9.0 c.f. , tuning = 18hz ultimax 18 2000w**
I've replied to your PM. You should be good to go.

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
_____________________ http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/auger-handle/ ________________________
Augerhandle is offline  
post #5246 of 5284 Old 05-28-2020, 04:27 PM
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 659
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Liked: 592
Thank you for the help so far, guys. Almost done with the first of the twin Devastators.

Question: I don't understand how to wire the speakon panel mount connector. A 3/8" female tab will work for the -1 but the +1 won't accept the female tab as its bordered on the sides by plastic. I'm hoping this is a stupid question with an easy answer. FWIW, these are the connectors I have:
https://www.glsaudio.com/GLS-Audio-N...ck_p_1931.html
Thanks a lot, guys, this is the last hurdle!
Gary Mertz is offline  
post #5247 of 5284 Old 05-28-2020, 04:45 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
smcmillan2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Farmington, MI, USA
Posts: 2,560
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1148 Post(s)
Liked: 968
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Mertz View Post
Question: I don't understand how to wire the speakon panel mount connector. A 3/8" female tab will work for the -1 but the +1 won't accept the female tab as its bordered on the sides by plastic.
Either snip the plastic away (you have to be careful to not let the two connections touch) or get 3/16" spades, often found in automotive parts stores.

Sub builds: Yet another Infinity 1260 build | Twins! | Modified V.B.S.S. build | UM12-22 builds | AV stand and sealed UM18s

Speaker builds: DIYSG HTM-10 build | DIYSG Volt-6 build | DIYSG Fusion-8 builds
smcmillan2 is online now  
post #5248 of 5284 Old 05-28-2020, 05:26 PM
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 659
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Liked: 592
Quote:
Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
Either snip the plastic away (you have to be careful to not let the two connections touch) or get 3/16" spades, often found in automotive parts stores.
3/16", yes I'm sorry, that's what I meant. I do have some and they will fit on the -1. The spade won't fit in the +1. Without snipping the plastic would it otherwise have to be soldered? I wonder if there are connectors that are designed such that you don't have to solder. The Neutrik speakon plugs just secured the wire with a screw, they were easy.
Gary Mertz is offline  
post #5249 of 5284 Old 05-28-2020, 05:38 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
smcmillan2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Farmington, MI, USA
Posts: 2,560
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1148 Post(s)
Liked: 968
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Mertz View Post
3/16", yes I'm sorry, that's what I meant. I do have some and they will fit on the -1. The spade won't fit in the +1. Without snipping the plastic would it otherwise have to be soldered? I wonder if there are connectors that are designed such that you don't have to solder. The Neutrik speakon plugs just secured the wire with a screw, they were easy.
If you're already using 3/16" just snip the plastic away. I've been using 1/4" spades (because I had them), snipped the plastic and have had no issues. Should only have to remove one tab of the "H" shaped extrusion.

Sub builds: Yet another Infinity 1260 build | Twins! | Modified V.B.S.S. build | UM12-22 builds | AV stand and sealed UM18s

Speaker builds: DIYSG HTM-10 build | DIYSG Volt-6 build | DIYSG Fusion-8 builds

Last edited by smcmillan2; 05-28-2020 at 05:43 PM.
smcmillan2 is online now  
post #5250 of 5284 Old 05-28-2020, 06:30 PM
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 659
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Liked: 592
Quote:
Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
If you're already using 3/16" just snip the plastic away. I've been using 1/4" spades (because I had them), snipped the plastic and have had no issues. Should only have to remove one tab of the "H" shaped extrusion.
Okay, sold. I'll work on that tomorrow. Would I just wrap the tabs in electrical tape so as to avoid them touching? Seems like they'll be very close to each other.
Gary Mertz is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off