MartySub FAQ - Page 176 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 1716Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #5251 of 5280 Old 05-28-2020, 06:53 PM
Member
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Liked: 2
I used these connectors from parts express.
https://www.parts-express.com/neutri...rcon--092-2438
They fit very tightly on the terminals and lock in place.

A little red and black heatshrink and there is no worry about arcing.
SSinstaller is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #5252 of 5280 Old 05-28-2020, 06:58 PM
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 643
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 419 Post(s)
Liked: 587
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSinstaller View Post
I used these connectors from parts express.
https://www.parts-express.com/neutri...rcon--092-2438
They fit very tightly on the terminals and lock in place.

A little red and black heatshrink and there is no worry about arcing.
Those are really nice, better than what I've seen. I need 4 so I'd have 96 left for...well a project I probably won't ever have. With those I would still need to cut the plastic away, yes? The heatshrink would envelop the entire connection?
Gary Mertz is offline  
post #5253 of 5280 Old 05-28-2020, 07:19 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
smcmillan2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Farmington, MI, USA
Posts: 2,554
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1143 Post(s)
Liked: 967
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Mertz View Post
Okay, sold. I'll work on that tomorrow. Would I just wrap the tabs in electrical tape so as to avoid them touching? Seems like they'll be very close to each other.
With 3/16" spades that should not be necessary, I didn't do anything like that using 1/4" spades. But if you are really concerned that the 2 connectors will touch, a little wrap of something can't hurt.

Sub builds: Yet another Infinity 1260 build | Twins! | Modified V.B.S.S. build | UM12-22 builds | AV stand and sealed UM18s

Speaker builds: DIYSG HTM-10 build | DIYSG Volt-6 build | DIYSG Fusion-8 builds
smcmillan2 is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #5254 of 5280 Old 05-28-2020, 08:09 PM
Member
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Liked: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Mertz View Post
Those are really nice, better than what I've seen. I need 4 so I'd have 96 left for...well a project I probably won't ever have. With those I would still need to cut the plastic away, yes? The heatshrink would envelop the entire connection?
The heashrink gets tight enough to the terminal the it clears without issue. You don't modify anything.
SSinstaller is online now  
post #5255 of 5280 Old 05-29-2020, 07:09 AM
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 643
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 419 Post(s)
Liked: 587
I could't get the connector past those plastic pieces, there isn't enough space for the one to clear but maybe I'm doing something wrong. There's barely any space between the tab and the plastic.

JBL 590 fronts, 520 center, 530 surrounds, NHT Superzero Atmos heights, twin Devastators with LaVoce 214 drivers and pushed with a Behringer NX6000D amp. 2019 75" Vizio P-series Quantum. Bryston 9BST x2 for the surrounds and heights, Bryston 6BST for LCR. Integra 80.3 but waiting eagerly on a Monoprice HTP-1.
Gary Mertz is offline  
post #5256 of 5280 Old 05-29-2020, 08:48 AM
Member
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Liked: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Mertz View Post
I could't get the connector past those plastic pieces, there isn't enough space for the one to clear but maybe I'm doing something wrong. There's barely any space between the tab and the plastic.
If you're using 1/4" connectors that is the problem. The right size is 3/16".
Heide264 likes this.
SSinstaller is online now  
post #5257 of 5280 Old 05-29-2020, 08:55 AM
Member
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Liked: 2
Attached a pic of the connector assembled.

How do I merge these posts?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20200529_115326_1590767669931.jpg
Views:	80
Size:	808.5 KB
ID:	2734146  
SSinstaller is online now  
post #5258 of 5280 Old 05-30-2020, 11:37 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
genaccmiller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,905
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1055 Post(s)
Liked: 293
My current set up is three JBL studio 590s for the front and two JBL studio 580s for surrounds and two MLT 2s for my rear surrounds. I have a Klipsch R112sw subwoofer. My receiver is a Denon ,4400h. The Klipsch is the weakest link in the chain. However I don't have an option of replacing that with a 15 inch sub in the front because of size constraints behind my AT wall. So this post is more about a second sub I am thinking of to put in the back of the room. If I did end up replacing the Klipsch it will most likely need to be for a 10 inch sub. The ratio between video and music usage is 75-25.

The larger space behind my seating in the room which is about 24-30 inches depending on where you measure (curved seating configuration). The dimensions of the room are 13'8" from AT screen to back wall and 12'6" width. I have a couple of questions.

1. Do I even need a second sub given the room dimensions?
2. If I did need a second sub would I need one or two? I already have one sub in the front. Would adding another two for a small room be an overkill?
3. Given my room size would I go for mini Marty or cube or something different? The first page of this FAQ says For a small room under 1500cuft a pair of the micro and cube are potent. I already have a Klipsch. So does this mean I will need two micros?
4. I don't see a lot of difference from a cost perspective comparing this to a ready made sub. I was looking at the gsg website. Am I misreading anything?
5. There also seems to be a VBSS. What's the difference between that and Marty?

Step by Step Theater Build - http://imgur.com/gallery/2tpaSru
My Theater Build Youtube Channel - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCs_..._as=subscriber
My Theater Build Thread - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...ld-thread.html

Last edited by genaccmiller; 05-31-2020 at 05:33 AM.
genaccmiller is offline  
post #5259 of 5280 Old 05-31-2020, 08:33 AM
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 643
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 419 Post(s)
Liked: 587
Devastator #1 of #2 is up and running. However there are some things I don't understand. This is a speakon connection and the LaVoce 21" driver.

1. I'm running just a calibration test tone from my old Integra DSC 9.9. The rumble is very uneven. Not a steady rumble but rather it seems to rapidly hit...harder? Maybe that's it. Not sure how to describe it, sort of like driving over a rough road where there's a steady rumble but sometimes you hit a bigger hole. It isn't jarring but it is noticeable. Settings are what is recommended by GSG. Low pass Butterworth and I have it crossed at 80. The Integra is set to the same, speakers crossed at 80 all around.

2. Gain on the Behringer NX6000D doesn't seem to have any effect. The only variability in volume I can get is on the Integra side when I turn up the subwoofer. EDIT: I get variability from the physical knob on the unit just not through the software.
Now, on a funny note I had the rumble running and of course the floor above was vibrating and rattling a few things here and there. Fiance says "is this safe?"

@genaccmiller :
1. A second sub would help even out your bass. Its always a good idea!
2. I would just start with one and see what you think. You can always add more.
3. I'm not sure about which particular model. I just got done building one of 2 Devastators (obviously given my questions above) and my room is about 2,500 cu ft.
4. I think, based on my research, that it would have cost me considerably more if I had gone with a ready-made sub. Cost to performance ratio.
5. I'm not sure about the differences there. One of the more experienced guys I'm sure will help you.

Last edited by Gary Mertz; 05-31-2020 at 09:12 AM.
Gary Mertz is offline  
post #5260 of 5280 Old 06-01-2020, 04:27 AM
Member
 
Heide264's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 171
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Liked: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Mertz View Post
I could't get the connector past those plastic pieces, there isn't enough space for the one to clear but maybe I'm doing something wrong. There's barely any space between the tab and the plastic.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSinstaller View Post
If you're using 1/4" connectors that is the problem. The right size is 3/16".
I have a feeling you are using the normal 1/4" connectors that are commonly sold. You need to find a few 3/16" ones that are a bit smaller and fit right on the speakon connector. I found mine at a decent automotive part store. They can be sort of a pain to find.
Gary Mertz likes this.
Heide264 is offline  
post #5261 of 5280 Old 06-01-2020, 05:00 AM
Member
 
Heide264's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 171
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Liked: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post
1. Do I even need a second sub given the room dimensions?
2. If I did need a second sub would I need one or two? I already have one sub in the front. Would adding another two for a small room be an overkill?
3. Given my room size would I go for mini Marty or cube or something different? The first page of this FAQ says For a small room under 1500cuft a pair of the micro and cube are potent. I already have a Klipsch. So does this mean I will need two micros?
4. I don't see a lot of difference from a cost perspective comparing this to a ready made sub. I was looking at the gsg website. Am I misreading anything?
5. There also seems to be a VBSS. What's the difference between that and Marty?
On top of Gary's solid input above, I'll pitch in my thoughts as well:

1.) Multiple subs will always help out. When you start getting down under 30Hz frequency wise, your room nodes will kick in. You'll find with REW that in nearly every case, you won't be able to get ideal bass response out of a single source. If so, it would only be for a single seat. When frequencies get under 30Hz, think of a sound wave as an old massive jump rope that two people swing. The subwoofer has one handle... and then any given wall has the other handle. As frequencies change, the length of that rope changes. There will be certain lengths that cause the rope to swing 'nicely' as a standing wave and will cause inconsistent response throughout the area. Bit of an odd comparison, but hopefully it helps a bit. Bottom line - Yup! Multiple subwoofers primary advantage is to help get better frequency response throughout the room, not necessarily boost output.

2.) You can always turn down your subs, so I wouldn't worry about 'overkill'. Depending on what you end up with, you may find that it's more work than it's worth to integrate your original sub, however. I'd personally just plan on building two, as it's easier to make them in pairs. You can always try to dial the room in with all three and compare the result to only using the two DIY subs. If the two new DIY ones are okay in the room, you can sell your current sub or move it to another setup.

3.) Your call on the sub size. Even in a smaller room, as far as ported subs go, the bigger the box the 'better' if you can fit them and position them ideally. I'd recommend cubes based off the dimensions unless you really need the micros smaller size. The mini's will have a good bit more output, but they are a decent step up dimension wise. I think you'll be very happy to start with a pair of any martys. You can always add on one or two more down the road easily.

4.) You won't find too many direct comparisons at first glance. The performance of any 18" DIY sub is going to be substantially better than most of your commercial subs, but the cost will come out a bit higher in the end depending on what you go with. I think I spent ~$300 on my SVS12, but I spent a good bit more on a pair of full marty's (~$450 each when you split the cost of the amp?)... The problem with that comparison is that the performance of the two are not comparable... may as well be dividing by zero. There are much better commercial offerings out there then I had, but you'll always be paying more for a given performance level with commercial offerings in the end. The problem with the apples to apples cost comparisons is that most DIY designs here target very high performance.

5.) The VBSS is a smaller ported sub that uses a pro-audio style woofer. It's much more efficient for sound above 30Hz or so, but it doesn't have the response of the marty subs under 30Hz. I plan on adding a pair of them to my pair of full marties just for some extra higher frequency output, for what it's worth. They seem to be great subs for most music given the frequency response and doesn't require a real strong amp. Some people are building enough of them to get fairly solid output below 30Hz, so YMMV.

Good luck! You won't look back after you go DIY.
jujuman200, Gary Mertz and Mr-W like this.
Heide264 is offline  
post #5262 of 5280 Old 06-01-2020, 05:26 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
genaccmiller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,905
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1055 Post(s)
Liked: 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Heide264 View Post
On top of Gary's solid input above, I'll pitch in my thoughts as well:



1.) Multiple subs will always help out. When you start getting down under 30Hz frequency wise, your room nodes will kick in. You'll find with REW that in nearly every case, you won't be able to get ideal bass response out of a single source. If so, it would only be for a single seat. When frequencies get under 30Hz, think of a sound wave as an old massive jump rope that two people swing. The subwoofer has one handle... and then any given wall has the other handle. As frequencies change, the length of that rope changes. There will be certain lengths that cause the rope to swing 'nicely' as a standing wave and will cause inconsistent response throughout the area. Bit of an odd comparison, but hopefully it helps a bit. Bottom line - Yup! Multiple subwoofers primary advantage is to help get better frequency response throughout the room, not necessarily boost output.



2.) You can always turn down your subs, so I wouldn't worry about 'overkill'. Depending on what you end up with, you may find that it's more work than it's worth to integrate your original sub, however. I'd personally just plan on building two, as it's easier to make them in pairs. You can always try to dial the room in with all three and compare the result to only using the two DIY subs. If the two new DIY ones are okay in the room, you can sell your current sub or move it to another setup.



3.) Your call on the sub size. Even in a smaller room, as far as ported subs go, the bigger the box the 'better' if you can fit them and position them ideally. I'd recommend cubes based off the dimensions unless you really need the micros smaller size. The mini's will have a good bit more output, but they are a decent step up dimension wise. I think you'll be very happy to start with a pair of any martys. You can always add on one or two more down the road easily.



4.) You won't find too many direct comparisons at first glance. The performance of any 18" DIY sub is going to be substantially better than most of your commercial subs, but the cost will come out a bit higher in the end depending on what you go with. I think I spent ~$300 on my SVS12, but I spent a good bit more on a pair of full marty's (~$450 each when you split the cost of the amp?)... The problem with that comparison is that the performance of the two are not comparable... may as well be dividing by zero. There are much better commercial offerings out there then I had, but you'll always be paying more for a given performance level with commercial offerings in the end. The problem with the apples to apples cost comparisons is that most DIY designs here target very high performance.



5.) The VBSS is a smaller ported sub that uses a pro-audio style woofer. It's much more efficient for sound above 30Hz or so, but it doesn't have the response of the marty subs under 30Hz. I plan on adding a pair of them to my pair of full marties just for some extra higher frequency output, for what it's worth. They seem to be great subs for most music given the frequency response and doesn't require a real strong amp. Some people are building enough of them to get fairly solid output below 30Hz, so YMMV.



Good luck! You won't look back after you go DIY.
Thank you. If I go for the cubes what kind of cost outlay would it run for two of them including the amp? And is the higher cost possibly because of buying the precut boards on-line. Would I be able to save cost by cutting them myself or at homedepot? On the gsg side I cannot find a cube flatpack. Also my head went for a spin when I started reading this thread as people posted a lot of graphs. I am not familiar with these graphs. How much familiarity do I need? The other thing is I have a ported sub now and am looking for a ported because I hear they are better than sealed. The Marty would not accommodate that isn't it?

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

Step by Step Theater Build - http://imgur.com/gallery/2tpaSru
My Theater Build Youtube Channel - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCs_..._as=subscriber
My Theater Build Thread - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...ld-thread.html

Last edited by genaccmiller; 06-01-2020 at 05:31 AM.
genaccmiller is offline  
post #5263 of 5280 Old 06-01-2020, 05:40 AM
Member
 
Heide264's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 171
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Liked: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post
Thank you. If I go for the cubes what kind of cost outlay would it run for two of them including the amp? And is the higher cost possibly because of buying the precut boards on-line. Would I be able to save cost by cutting them myself or at homedepot? On the gsg side I cannot find a cube flatpack. Also my head went for a spin when I started reading this thread as people posted a lot of graphs. I am not familiar with these graphs. How much familiarity do I need? The other thing is I have a ported sub now and am looking for a ported because I hear they are better than sealed. The Marty would not accommodate that isn't it?

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
So the gsg flatpacks are a relatively new thing in this space, honestly. The biggest cost factor of those would be the shipping. You can spare yourself the shipping by cutting them yourself. Looking back at my full marty builds, I would have gone with those flat packs if they were around when I did them. CNC cut boards are really nice to work with. To play devils advocate, an 8x4' sheet of 3/4" MDF is generally ~$30 at home depot. I used two for my full marty. I think the cubes use less than one.

Cost wise, it depends on how much your time is worth and what driver/amp you plan on using. I'm not too familiar with your driver options - you may want to read through the first page of this thread to get an idea of your options. The VBSS will be your cheapest build by far - those PA (pro audio) drivers are only $90-100 a pop for an 18" driver. The UM-18 is going to cost about 3x that. Amp wise you'll probably want a behringer NX3000DSP unless you want to spend a bit more - looks to be $300-400 shipped at a very quick glance. It includes DSP, so you won't need a mini DSP or anything (unless you want it). Add in about $20-30 in miscellaneous hardware/connectors/rubber feet/etc, too. The costs definitely add up, but you'll get a lot of performance out of it. Plus, the other nice thing being if something does eventually fail, you can replace just that component, or upgrade just that component.

Graph wise, if you understand 0% of them, you'll be at the same place you are with your off the shelf sub. The graphs are 'required' whether you use 'off the shelf' subs (unless they have a fancy room EQ built in, I guess) or if you go with DIY. The main emphasis on REW with DIY subs is that you'll have a sub more capable of playing in the lower frequencies, where room correction built into most receivers tends to turn into a hot mess. If you have the capability in your subs to play down that low, you may as well be able to dial it in! It's a gradual process - don't be overly intimidated at the moment.
Gary Mertz likes this.
Heide264 is offline  
post #5264 of 5280 Old 06-01-2020, 04:15 PM
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 643
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 419 Post(s)
Liked: 587
@Heide264 has just posted two of the finest posts on subs I have read in quite a while.

Just to piggy back on that, the DIY subs indeed will cost you a bit more, no question. However there are some key benefits to DIY:
1. You do have the satisfaction of building it yourself.

2. You can customize it any way you want. Want it to match the wall color? Done. Want it to match the carpet color? Done. Want to cover it in wallpaper? Done. You can cover it with literally anything you want.

3. You can change the driver. If your driver somehow goes bad you can just replace it yourself, no problem. Want a different driver, maybe one with better output? Done.

4. If your amp goes bad, just buy a new one. You don't have to worry about trying to find a plate amp to match or try to go through the manufacturer to get it serviced/replaced.

I also I can tell you I just finished building a GSG Devastator and fired it up. Its absolutely ridiculous. To get that same performance I'm reasonably certain I'd have to actually spend more than what the Devastator cost me.
Having completed one Devastator and working on the second, I cannot recommend DIY any more heartily.

About the REW graphs, don't be intimidated. The graphs are a lot easier to read than you might think. The graphs aren't absolutely 100% necessary however they are necessary to get the absolute best out of any given room/sub combination.
Go DIY and don't look back. Particularly with GSG you can email the designers/owners and they are very helpful.
kevings and jujuman200 like this.
Gary Mertz is offline  
post #5265 of 5280 Old 06-05-2020, 11:32 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
xb1032's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 5,392
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Liked: 28
A few months ago I built a Full Marty with a Dayton Audio UM18-22 powered by an NX6000D based on the comments and popularity here on AVS. Thus far it does a really good job on really low frequencies but it does't have a lot of impact in the midbass region. I'm waiting on the UMM-6 to come back in stock so I can run REW to see how much improvement EQ'ing will make. I've also built a devastator with a LaVoce with has improved midbass drastically.


Having said all that, after doing more research (after the fac) I came across GSG Audios FAQs and towards the bottom of this page: https://shop.gsgad.com/pages/frequently-asked-questions they comment that the LaVoce SAF184.03 has roughly the same low-end output as the UM18 with 1100 watts in a mini-marty but significantly more midbass output. My knowledge is limited and I know the UM18 has more excursion but after reading this I'm curious as to why many purchase the UM18 over the LaVoce since both are roughly the same cost (assuming there's not a sale. Thoughts on this?


While my system has really good bass, like many on here I still want more . My devastator is also lacking somewhat on the low end but I won't really know what I'm going to get after performing calibration and see what my room is doing. Likely I'm going to want more in the low end that midbass since the devastator is very close to my seating position which makes me think building a 21" Lavoce Full Marty might be a good choice.
xb1032 is offline  
post #5266 of 5280 Old 06-05-2020, 11:49 AM
Advanced Member
 
jcr159's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: NE Ohio (Go Steelers!)
Posts: 583
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 274 Post(s)
Liked: 144
Quote:
Originally Posted by xb1032 View Post
A few months ago I built a Full Marty with a Dayton Audio UM18-22 powered by an NX6000D based on the comments and popularity here on AVS. Thus far it does a really good job on really low frequencies but it does't have a lot of impact in the midbass region. I'm waiting on the UMM-6 to come back in stock so I can run REW to see how much improvement EQ'ing will make. I've also built a devastator with a LaVoce with has improved midbass drastically.


Having said all that, after doing more research (after the fac) I came across GSG Audios FAQs and towards the bottom of this page: https://shop.gsgad.com/pages/frequently-asked-questions they comment that the LaVoce SAF184.03 has roughly the same low-end output as the UM18 with 1100 watts in a mini-marty but significantly more midbass output. My knowledge is limited and I know the UM18 has more excursion but after reading this I'm curious as to why many purchase the UM18 over the LaVoce since both are roughly the same cost (assuming there's not a sale. Thoughts on this?


While my system has really good bass, like many on here I still want more . My devastator is also lacking somewhat on the low end but I won't really know what I'm going to get after performing calibration and see what my room is doing. Likely I'm going to want more in the low end that midbass since the devastator is very close to my seating position which makes me think building a 21" Lavoce Full Marty might be a good choice.
sounds like you have a dev, and a marty both in the same room? if so, and you haven't measured or eq'd, you definitely need to do some integration/calibration work... Once your mic comes in and you get things dialed, you may be in much better shape than you think...

Have a question and want it answered in podcast format?
[email protected]
http://www.avrant.com/
https://www.youtube.com/c/avrant
jcr159 is offline  
post #5267 of 5280 Old 06-05-2020, 01:32 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
xb1032's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 5,392
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcr159 View Post
sounds like you have a dev, and a marty both in the same room? if so, and you haven't measured or eq'd, you definitely need to do some integration/calibration work... Once your mic comes in and you get things dialed, you may be in much better shape than you think...

Yeah they are both in the same room. These are huge subs and there's only a few places they can be located so not much I can do about that. I'm assuming calibration will help since most who posted their experiences on YouTube were very positive. As it stands now both seem to compliment each other more that working together.
xb1032 is offline  
post #5268 of 5280 Old 06-05-2020, 04:36 PM
Senior Member
 
4fit?'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Burlington, NC
Posts: 366
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Liked: 91
Quote:
Originally Posted by xb1032 View Post
Yeah they are both in the same room. These are huge subs and there's only a few places they can be located so not much I can do about that. I'm assuming calibration will help since most who posted their experiences on YouTube were very positive. As it stands now both seem to compliment each other more that working together.
Any reason you are waiting on the UMM-6 and not just picking up a UMik-1?

https://www.minidsp.com/products/aco...urement/umik-1

Or one that's been calibrated by CSL?
http://cross-spectrum.com/measuremen...ated_umik.html

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

| 135" SilverTicket AT screen | BenQ HT2050 | (3) DIY 18" Subs - 1 HT18 & 2 PN470 | iNuke DSP6000 amp |
4fit? is online now  
post #5269 of 5280 Old 06-05-2020, 06:42 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
xb1032's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 5,392
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4fit? View Post
Any reason you are waiting on the UMM-6 and not just picking up a UMik-1?

https://www.minidsp.com/products/aco...urement/umik-1

Or one that's been calibrated by CSL?
http://cross-spectrum.com/measuremen...ated_umik.html

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

I was holding back because of the inflated shipping cost but just realized MiniDSP ships from Hong Kong. I found one for under $100 so I went ahead and ordered one.
xb1032 is offline  
post #5270 of 5280 Old 06-19-2020, 08:13 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 95
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 61 Post(s)
Liked: 24
i just entered the full marty in winisd and using the same tuning im getting completely different port length using the same 3" * 22.5" port diameter, am i doing something wrong?
bogaboga is offline  
post #5271 of 5280 Old 06-23-2020, 10:49 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Augerhandle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: About 25" away from my computer screen
Posts: 5,736
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1457 Post(s)
Liked: 1425
Quote:
Originally Posted by bogaboga View Post
i just entered the full marty in winisd and using the same tuning im getting completely different port length using the same 3" * 22.5" port diameter, am i doing something wrong?
No.

The slot port in the Marty sub exits at the floor, which extends the effective port length, because the floor acts as a boundary surface. This is also what happens inside, because the port exits along the back and side walls of the sub. WinIsd gives effective port length, which doesn't account for this boundary effect (I don't think WinISD accounts for flare lengths on round ports, either, though I may be mistaken).

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
_____________________ http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/auger-handle/ ________________________
Augerhandle is offline  
post #5272 of 5280 Old 06-24-2020, 03:23 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 95
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 61 Post(s)
Liked: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
No.

The slot port in the Marty sub exits at the floor, which extends the effective port length, because the floor acts as a boundary surface. This is also what happens inside, because the port exits along the back and side walls of the sub. WinIsd gives effective port length, which doesn't account for this boundary effect (I don't think WinISD accounts for flare lengths on round ports, either, though I may be mistaken).
how would one account for that when designing a sub?
bogaboga is offline  
post #5273 of 5280 Old 06-25-2020, 11:37 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Augerhandle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: About 25" away from my computer screen
Posts: 5,736
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1457 Post(s)
Liked: 1425
Quote:
Originally Posted by bogaboga View Post
how would one account for that when designing a sub?
People usually subtract the port height x 2 or similar from WinISD number for a slotted port. A couple inches won't make a big difference.

For a round flared port, you include 1/2 of the flare with the length of the straight part. So, if you had 3/4" flares, you would add 3/8" for each flare (3/4" total). A 28" (effective length) round port with 3/4" flares would be 28-3/4" overall, with the straight part 27-1/4" long.

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
_____________________ http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/auger-handle/ ________________________
Augerhandle is offline  
post #5274 of 5280 Old 06-26-2020, 01:27 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 101
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 41 Post(s)
Liked: 21
Hi Guys ,

Quick question for those that have built the Micro cube , I just cut all the parts to build one yesterday , I'm trying to decide between a DA Reference 15" or one of the buyout Eminence from DIYsg, I'll pair it with a PSA 15V sub that uses an Eminence Sub similar to a Lab so I'm leaning toward the buyout but wanted to hear from those that have tried them.

Your input is appreciated.

Thanks.
epc2 is offline  
post #5275 of 5280 Old 07-01-2020, 08:44 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
sound dropouts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 1,433
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Liked: 16
How long does it typically take to ship from gsg? I ordered a week ago but still no updates.


Also I'm using the PA460...do these need gasget tape? The PA460 seems to have a good layer of padding already.
sound dropouts is offline  
post #5276 of 5280 Old 07-01-2020, 04:59 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
kevings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Orange County CA
Posts: 1,313
Mentioned: 74 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 348 Post(s)
Liked: 556
Quote:
Originally Posted by sound dropouts View Post
How long does it typically take to ship from gsg? I ordered a week ago but still no updates.


Also I'm using the PA460...do these need gasget tape? The PA460 seems to have a good layer of padding already.
Hi, Kevin with GSG here. Looks like your order came in last Thursday. I just talked with with Bill, our shop manager and it'll ship out this week. As soon as it ships, I'll send you a couple of pics of the pallet, as well as tracking info within 24 hours or so (sometimes it can take a day or so, before we receive the tracking info).
sound dropouts likes this.
kevings is offline  
post #5277 of 5280 Old 07-02-2020, 04:13 AM
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 643
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 419 Post(s)
Liked: 587
Quote:
Originally Posted by sound dropouts View Post
How long does it typically take to ship from gsg? I ordered a week ago but still no updates.


Also I'm using the PA460...do these need gasget tape? The PA460 seems to have a good layer of padding already.
Follow the instructions to the letter IME. It's not expensive, just get rubber/ silicone door/window gasket from a hardware store. I used the small sized for my twin Devastators.

JBL 590 fronts, 520 center, 530 surrounds, NHT Superzero Atmos heights, twin Devastators with LaVoce 214 drivers and pushed with a Behringer NX6000D amp. 2019 75" Vizio P-series Quantum. Bryston 9BST x2 for the surrounds and heights, Bryston 6BST for LCR. Integra 80.3 but waiting eagerly on a Monoprice HTP-1.
Gary Mertz is offline  
post #5278 of 5280 Old 07-02-2020, 04:11 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
CZ Eddie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Austin TX, USA
Posts: 7,290
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 134 Post(s)
Liked: 66
It's not as cheap as the Memorial day sale was, but the UM18 are on sale again.
For the fourth of July weekend.

"The boom is dead, long live the bass"
CZ Eddie is offline  
post #5279 of 5280 Old Yesterday, 08:57 AM
Member
 
Sockfoot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 36
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Hey guys, years ago I built a full marty for my SI DS4 18" but due to a move and waf, had to leave it behind. I have been needing some bass in my life again and wanted to build a smaller enclosure so obviously I came back here. Can anyone direct me to the plans? I was sure I found them here, and this was the page I had bookmarked, but unless I am blind and/or stupid, they aren't here anymore?
Sockfoot is offline  
post #5280 of 5280 Old Today, 04:56 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Red Five's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 2,022
Mentioned: 228 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1314 Post(s)
Liked: 1244
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockfoot View Post
Hey guys, years ago I built a full marty for my SI DS4 18" but due to a move and waf, had to leave it behind. I have been needing some bass in my life again and wanted to build a smaller enclosure so obviously I came back here. Can anyone direct me to the plans? I was sure I found them here, and this was the page I had bookmarked, but unless I am blind and/or stupid, they aren't here anymore?
Go to post #4599 .

This is the way...
Stormbreaker | WI HT Meet Thread | The Devastator Index | Dual Mini Devastator Build
7.2.4 | A3070 | XLS 1502 | CTS 2000 | 2x Aphex 124A | 2x Bic EV15 | 7x Bic FH6 LCR | 2x Bic FH65-B | Epson 5010e | 120" DIY AT Screen | 2x Mini Devastators
Red Five is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off