MartySub FAQ - Page 83 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2461 of 5280 Old 11-16-2015, 11:09 PM
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Ok, so I just watched San Andreas tonight. All I can say is that the amount of bass that full marty puts out is just scary. I'm sure it's all good, but I've never seen anything like it before. When I went up to it during the Hoover dam scene that thing was just going crazy and I was actually somewhat worried for it and/or my house. At the same time, it got me so excited that I can't wait to build another sub! Marty cube, you're next!
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post #2462 of 5280 Old 11-17-2015, 11:33 AM
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Hi Planning on a Marty Cube. It physically fits in the room thats about it. Its the living room of a mobil home, but I have a corner where it will fit well. Since the room is small, and we have enjoyed our budget klipsch 10 inch sub for now, I believe that the Marty Cube turned down will give great dynamics for the room. I am looking for the subsonic frequencys that the klipsch sub is way to small to get those frequencys.

IN any case, Room placement will have to be limited to one corner. Although it seems to be a good corner.

I already have an Inuke 3000 DSP. So that will be the amp. I use a yahama Rx V 673 for the rest of the system. Two klipsch Heresy for the primary fronts, a crites center channel, and some el chepo surrounds that are also about the get on the cutting table.

I am pretty well set on the marty cube. And need to find a currently available driver for it. Trying to stay under 350 for the driver.

Here are the drivers I have looked at so far (I just posted a general idea, not sure on dual or single voice coil or whatever):


Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4

Dayton Audio UM18-22 18" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per Coil

Eminence LAB 15/4 15" Pro Audio Subwoofer Speaker 4 Ohm

The LAB 15 is only if I can swing a purchase before the buyout ends. Are there any other currently available subs I can use that will work well with what I have in a Marty Cube? I wish I could do two subs, but I just dont have the room.

I am not looking for shear SPL, just strong dynamics, good sound quality, decent SPL to shake the room just right, and lowest frequency possible for Home Theater.

This sub is specifically for home theater. In the future some new primary fronts will be built or purchased to handle music. One other note, the Inuke DSP will be in a rack enclosure in another room. So I am not doing any fan mods for noise, However I really dont like pushing amplifiers to the extreme limits with low impedeance loads.

The only other option I have is to mount subwoofer enclosures under the mobile home and fire them through the floor. But that really is more work that I have time for right now (although something like a big nasty sonotube under the house would be something else, eh?)

Thanks.
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post #2463 of 5280 Old 11-17-2015, 11:43 AM
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Probably better to start a new thread rather than adding this to the Martysub FAQ thread.
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post #2464 of 5280 Old 11-17-2015, 11:51 AM
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@dragon bat, I'm going to be using the UM15-22 for my Marty cube. Should work great. Will an 18" fit in a marty cube?
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post #2465 of 5280 Old 11-17-2015, 11:56 AM
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Ill start a new thread.

I was also under the impression that the 18 would not fit in a marty cube. But at the beginning of the FAQ it list some 18 inch drivers. Perhaps I missread something.
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post #2466 of 5280 Old 11-17-2015, 12:03 PM
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Ill start a new thread.

I was also under the impression that the 18 would not fit in a marty cube. But at the beginning of the FAQ it list some 18 inch drivers. Perhaps I missread something.
Nope, it's my bad, I was thinking of the micro, and I'll be using the 15" Dayton for that one.
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post #2467 of 5280 Old 11-17-2015, 12:07 PM
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I finished with my martycube build late last week. I came from a 15 year old KLH ASW12-200 that strained at the lowest levels in our large family room (9,000 cu. ft. completely open concept) and would chaff/clip/bottom out at the hint of deep/low bass. It's definitely an eye opening experience to go from my old sub to the 18" Marty. During the opening scene of Edge of Tomorrow I could feel the floors shaking and it makes me worry about my subfloor/joists, so I backed it off power wise a bit.

I was originally considering a Rythmik 12, was then suggested to get a 2x Rythmik 15's for my space. The $2600 price tag was scary when I was initially looking to spend $600 max. Once I was directed that my space was too large for that budget I set out for a better solution, in comes the DIY section of the forums. I want thank all those involved for their advice/inspiration/directions etc. as it made this a completely attainable solution over spending the $$$ for similarly specced (SP/DB) over the counter subwoofer assemblies.

My notes on the build:
- Buy a flatpack if you can find one, working with MDF is extremely messy and burdening, there are some great options out there, if I do this again, I will definitely go the route of purchasing one of them.
- When buying tools, purchase quality ones, one of my harbor freight clamps snapped (cheap enough to buy another one) and the HF braid nailer caused extra work from jams/missfires. New nailer already purchased.
- I used duratex with a smooth (sponge) 6" roller, the finish is what I expected and I like it. It's tough as nails and doesn't smell. The quart I purchased from parts express is 2.5x more than what you need for a martycube, buy less if you can. Maybe I can convince a friend to build one.
- Be careful if you use the speaker mounting kit from parts express and make some additions to the frame for mounting, the bolts weren't long enough and I made an unplanned trip to a department store after I got everything ready to mount (extra 45 mins).
- Buy a flatpack if you can find one, reiteration seems necessary.

Total cost of sub build came out to around $725. Completely and utterly worth it, my wife may not think so, but I've never experienced this much clean bass in a room as large as ours. Time to start going around the room and finding out what is rattling and make it stop.

Specs:
Box: Martycube - straight from the template laid out by Chaluga (No modifications)
Sub: Dayton Audio UM18-22
Amp: Crown XLS-1500 (Bridged)
AVR: Pioneer VSX-1025-K
Connections: Sub out (RCA) to Amp (XLR), Amp (Speakon) to Sub (Speakon)

Pictures:
0. Router jig I made. Making holes is much easier this way.
1. Interior bracing and T-nuts.
2. Recessed speakon mount.
3. Speaker test fit. (The speaker is ridiculously large)
4. Interior bracing and baffling. (walmart special).
5. Primed and painted.
6. Sealed Infinity 10" sub (old car sub), Crown Amp is sitting on the KLH 12" ported sub, Martycube (huge).
7. All done

For those interested, I moved the sub to another corner (out of site, definitely not out of mind, but tended to the WAF). I put the amplifier in our home theater cabinet and then ran 12ga speaker wire in the wall (25ft), through the crawl space, and back up to the sub. I also purchased a smartstrip to turn the amp on and off with the receiver. Nice and tidy build. Overall, it probably took 2 weeks, I gave the glue a lot of time to cure between steps, paint to dry, etc.
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Last edited by Ladicius92; 11-17-2015 at 12:12 PM.
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post #2468 of 5280 Old 11-17-2015, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladicius92 View Post
I finished with my martycube build late last week. I came from a 15 year old KLH ASW12-200 that strained at the lowest levels in our large family room (9,000 cu. ft. completely open concept) and would chaff/clip/bottom out at the hint of deep/low bass. It's definitely an eye opening experience to go from my old sub to the 18" Marty. During the opening scene of Edge of Tomorrow I could feel the floors shaking and it makes me worry about my subfloor/joists, so I backed it off power wise a bit.

I was originally considering a Rythmik 12, was then suggested to get a 2x Rythmik 15's for my space. The $2600 price tag was scary when I was initially looking to spend $600 max. Once I was directed that my space was too large for that budget I set out for a better solution, in comes the DIY section of the forums. I want thank all those involved for their advice/inspiration/directions etc. as it made this a completely attainable solution over spending the $$$ for similarly specced (SP/DB) over the counter subwoofer assemblies.

My notes on the build:
- Buy a flatpack if you can find one, working with MDF is extremely messy and burdening, there are some great options out there, if I do this again, I will definitely go the route of purchasing one of them.
- When buying tools, purchase quality ones, one of my harbor freight clamps snapped (cheap enough to buy another one) and the HF braid nailer caused extra work from jams/missfires. New nailer already purchased.
- I used duratex with a smooth (sponge) 6" roller, the finish is what I expected and I like it. It's tough as nails and doesn't smell. The quart I purchased from parts express is 2.5x more than what you need for a martycube, buy less if you can. Maybe I can convince a friend to build one.
- Be careful if you use the speaker mounting kit from parts express and make some additions to the frame for mounting, the bolts weren't long enough and I made an unplanned trip to a department store after I got everything ready to mount (extra 45 mins).
- Buy a flatpack if you can find one, reiteration seems necessary.

Total cost of sub build came out to around $725. Completely and utterly worth it, my wife may not think so, but I've never experienced this much clean bass in a room as large as ours. Time to start going around the room and finding out what is rattling and make it stop.

Specs:
Box: Martycube - straight from the template laid out by Chaluga (No modifications)
Sub: Dayton Audio UM18-22
Amp: Crown XLS-1500 (Bridged)
AVR: Pioneer VSX-1025-K
Connections: Sub out (RCA) to Amp (XLR), Amp (Speakon) to Sub (Speakon)

Pictures:
0. Router jig I made. Making holes is much easier this way.
1. Interior bracing and T-nuts.
2. Recessed speakon mount.
3. Speaker test fit. (The speaker is ridiculously large)
4. Interior bracing and baffling. (walmart special).
5. Primed and painted.
6. Sealed Infinity 10" sub (old car sub), Crown Amp is sitting on the KLH 12" ported sub, Martycube (huge).
7. All done

For those interested, I moved the sub to another corner (out of site, definitely not out of mind, but tended to the WAF). I put the amplifier in our home theater cabinet and then ran 12ga speaker wire in the wall (25ft), through the crawl space, and back up to the sub. I also purchased a smartstrip to turn the amp on and off with the receiver. Nice and tidy build. Overall, it probably took 2 weeks, I gave the glue a lot of time to cure between steps, paint to dry, etc.

Nice build. What did you use to recess the speakOn jack?

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post #2469 of 5280 Old 11-17-2015, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladicius92 View Post
I finished with my martycube build late last week. I came from a 15 year old KLH ASW12-200 that strained at the lowest levels in our large family room (9,000 cu. ft. completely open concept) and would chaff/clip/bottom out at the hint of deep/low bass. It's definitely an eye opening experience to go from my old sub to the 18" Marty. During the opening scene of Edge of Tomorrow I could feel the floors shaking and it makes me worry about my subfloor/joists, so I backed it off power wise a bit.

I was originally considering a Rythmik 12, was then suggested to get a 2x Rythmik 15's for my space. The $2600 price tag was scary when I was initially looking to spend $600 max. Once I was directed that my space was too large for that budget I set out for a better solution, in comes the DIY section of the forums. I want thank all those involved for their advice/inspiration/directions etc. as it made this a completely attainable solution over spending the $$$ for similarly specced (SP/DB) over the counter subwoofer assemblies.

My notes on the build:
- Buy a flatpack if you can find one, working with MDF is extremely messy and burdening, there are some great options out there, if I do this again, I will definitely go the route of purchasing one of them.
- When buying tools, purchase quality ones, one of my harbor freight clamps snapped (cheap enough to buy another one) and the HF braid nailer caused extra work from jams/missfires. New nailer already purchased.
- I used duratex with a smooth (sponge) 6" roller, the finish is what I expected and I like it. It's tough as nails and doesn't smell. The quart I purchased from parts express is 2.5x more than what you need for a martycube, buy less if you can. Maybe I can convince a friend to build one.
- Be careful if you use the speaker mounting kit from parts express and make some additions to the frame for mounting, the bolts weren't long enough and I made an unplanned trip to a department store after I got everything ready to mount (extra 45 mins).
- Buy a flatpack if you can find one, reiteration seems necessary.

Total cost of sub build came out to around $725. Completely and utterly worth it, my wife may not think so, but I've never experienced this much clean bass in a room as large as ours. Time to start going around the room and finding out what is rattling and make it stop.

Specs:
Box: Martycube - straight from the template laid out by Chaluga (No modifications)
Sub: Dayton Audio UM18-22
Amp: Crown XLS-1500 (Bridged)
AVR: Pioneer VSX-1025-K
Connections: Sub out (RCA) to Amp (XLR), Amp (Speakon) to Sub (Speakon)

Pictures:
0. Router jig I made. Making holes is much easier this way.
1. Interior bracing and T-nuts.
2. Recessed speakon mount.
3. Speaker test fit. (The speaker is ridiculously large)
4. Interior bracing and baffling. (walmart special).
5. Primed and painted.
6. Sealed Infinity 10" sub (old car sub), Crown Amp is sitting on the KLH 12" ported sub, Martycube (huge).
7. All done

For those interested, I moved the sub to another corner (out of site, definitely not out of mind, but tended to the WAF). I put the amplifier in our home theater cabinet and then ran 12ga speaker wire in the wall (25ft), through the crawl space, and back up to the sub. I also purchased a smartstrip to turn the amp on and off with the receiver. Nice and tidy build. Overall, it probably took 2 weeks, I gave the glue a lot of time to cure between steps, paint to dry, etc.
what padding did you use from Wamart? WAS it the 1/2"?
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post #2470 of 5280 Old 11-17-2015, 01:40 PM
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Nice build. What did you use to recess the speakOn jack?
I used a router.

I read threads/posts of people using a forstner bit, but I couldn't bring myself to spend $15 on a single bit when I could buy a set for $50, then I couldn't bring myself to spend $50 because I'd rarely use them.
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post #2471 of 5280 Old 11-17-2015, 01:41 PM
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what padding did you use from Wamart? WAS it the 1/2"?
1-1/4, I bought the queen size, had some left over, can use it for dog beds!

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-...-Twin/10055840
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post #2472 of 5280 Old 11-17-2015, 01:45 PM
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I used a router.

I read threads/posts of people using a forstner bit, but I couldn't bring myself to spend $15 on a single bit when I could buy a set for $50, then I couldn't bring myself to spend $50 because I'd rarely use them.

Thanks. How did you jig the small radius? The plywood jig shown earlier?

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post #2473 of 5280 Old 11-17-2015, 01:50 PM
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Thanks. How did you jig the small radius?
I used a 2" hole saw initially to match the 2" O.D. on the connector, I sat the connector close to the hole saw and taped off the height, then drilled down till I hit the tape. Once that location was set, I did the same on the router, I sat the connector close to the router and adjusted the depth of cut. Then it was a cut and check game, I increased the depth of cut after each check till it was perfect (or as close as I wanted to get it). It's a lot easier and less time consuming than typing makes it seem.
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post #2474 of 5280 Old 11-17-2015, 02:01 PM
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I used a 2" hole saw initially to match the 2" O.D. on the connector, I sat the connector close to the hole saw and taped off the height, then drilled down till I hit the tape. Once that location was set, I did the same on the router, I sat the connector close to the router and adjusted the depth of cut. Then it was a cut and check game, I increased the depth of cut after each check till it was perfect (or as close as I wanted to get it). It's a lot easier and less time consuming than typing makes it seem.

Got it, thanks.

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post #2475 of 5280 Old 11-17-2015, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Time to start going around the room and finding out what is rattling and make it stop.
Haha, I had to do that last night. These subs are insane, aren't they? Good description of your build, BTW. When I build my micro I'll do a better job of posting build pics along the way than my full Marty. What was your method for the recessed driver cutout? I'm going to try my hand at beech veneer this time just as a skill builder exercise. We'll see how it goes (crosses fingers).
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post #2476 of 5280 Old 11-17-2015, 04:10 PM
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Haha, I had to do that last night. These subs are insane, aren't they? Good description of your build, BTW. When I build my micro I'll do a better job of posting build pics along the way than my full Marty. What was your method for the recessed driver cutout? I'm going to try my hand at beech veneer this time just as a skill builder exercise. We'll see how it goes (crosses fingers).
2 different pieces of MDF cut out at different diameters. The smallest diameter is the recommended mounting dimension for the driver and the larger diameter is just a hair over the max diameter of the driver. I used the jig in the first picture to cut them out. Once cut out, I glued them together.

Also, thanks! I have more pictures but I was pressed for time and wasn't sure how many it would let me upload.

Last edited by Ladicius92; 11-17-2015 at 04:17 PM.
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post #2477 of 5280 Old 11-17-2015, 04:42 PM
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Haha, I had to do that last night. These subs are insane, aren't they? Good description of your build, BTW. When I build my micro I'll do a better job of posting build pics along the way than my full Marty. What was your method for the recessed driver cutout? I'm going to try my hand at beech veneer this time just as a skill builder exercise. We'll see how it goes (crosses fingers).
The way I normally do it, is to cut both of the pieces the same size and then use some dowels as pins to set the spacing of the 2 pieces in at least 2 opposite corners of the pieces and mark the orientation with some match marks (draw a pattern on the edge so you know how the pieces were aligned). Then drill the pivot hole through both pieces. Then separate the 2 cut the 'back' piece as the speaker mounting hole diameter and then the 'front' as the speaker outer flange diameter + 1/16" or so depending on how you want to finish the cabinet. Then glue the pieces together using the dowels to line up the 2 pieces to make sure the holes are concentric. You can also use a rabbiting bit to create the flange, or a larger mortising bit for the flange. However when you are cutting the circles on 2 layer front panels, using 3/4 stock it is hard to find a 1/4 bit with a long enough cutting length to make the cut all the way through the 1.5" material. You can cheat a bit out a little further out of the collet to make that last little cut but don't push it too far, a broken router bit can cause major damage to your body..
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post #2478 of 5280 Old 11-19-2015, 10:04 AM
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Well... I just thought Id show off my setup thanks to you guys...
(2) SI18d4 subs
(2) Johnny boxes
(1) Inuke 3000dsp

I copied @mlah384 with his great looking setup. Thanks for the idea. Fusion 15s will hopefully be shipped soon.
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post #2479 of 5280 Old 11-19-2015, 12:01 PM
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Well... I just thought Id show off my setup thanks to you guys...
(2) SI18d4 subs
(2) Johnny boxes
(1) Inuke 3000dsp

I copied @mlah384 with his great looking setup. Thanks for the idea. Fusion 15s will hopefully be shipped soon.
Nice! Those Fusion 15's will be sweet too!
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post #2480 of 5280 Old 11-20-2015, 08:40 AM
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I have finally put together my two Full Marty's, with UXL-18s, and an iNuke6000dsp.

I have a Denon AVR-4520 and ran Audyssey on it, one of the first step is it plays a test sound and asks you adjust your amplifier output until it get to some Db level (either 75 or 80, I forget). Then I ran the overall Audyssey process for, I think 5 of my 9 seating locations. I don't know what all it does, but one thing that was clear, is it adjusts DB of output volume. For my subs, I think one was -9Db and the other -12 Db.

I decided to set my receiver at 0, which I think means it is at Reference volume. I proceeded to play the start of Edge of Tomorrow a few times, and my iNuke only had a single orange/red light up on each channel.

I thought I had seen in heavy bass scenes you could expect that to pop up to 3 or 4 of the lights.

I don't have any 'mic' or measurement tools, other than Audyssey if you call it that... Does it sound like the Db correction from Audyssey was too much of a reduction in sound?

My 'come from' state is a sub-woofer that was part of a decent Sony HTiB set up... but, WOW I am amazed at how these sound/feel.
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post #2481 of 5280 Old 11-20-2015, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
I have finally put together my two Full Marty's, with UXL-18s, and an iNuke6000dsp.

I have a Denon AVR-4520 and ran Audyssey on it, one of the first step is it plays a test sound and asks you adjust your amplifier output until it get to some Db level (either 75 or 80, I forget). Then I ran the overall Audyssey process for, I think 5 of my 9 seating locations. I don't know what all it does, but one thing that was clear, is it adjusts DB of output volume. For my subs, I think one was -9Db and the other -12 Db.

I decided to set my receiver at 0, which I think means it is at Reference volume. I proceeded to play the start of Edge of Tomorrow a few times, and my iNuke only had a single orange/red light up on each channel.

I thought I had seen in heavy bass scenes you could expect that to pop up to 3 or 4 of the lights.

I don't have any 'mic' or measurement tools, other than Audyssey if you call it that... Does it sound like the Db correction from Audyssey was too much of a reduction in sound?

My 'come from' state is a sub-woofer that was part of a decent Sony HTiB set up... but, WOW I am amazed at how these sound/feel.
Yea, something sounds a bit off, the bass in the intro to EOT is recorded something like 10db's hot so at reference you should be right up to the limit of the amp.

Where did you end up setting the amp gains at?

If you plan on being able to tweak your response with the Inuke's DSP functions I'd highly recommend picking up a USB mic and learning REW. You'll be amazed at how much better you can make your system sound with a bit of tweaking.

Check out my End-Table Marty Build
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post #2482 of 5280 Old 11-20-2015, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
I have finally put together my two Full Marty's, with UXL-18s, and an iNuke6000dsp.

I have a Denon AVR-4520 and ran Audyssey on it, one of the first step is it plays a test sound and asks you adjust your amplifier output until it get to some Db level (either 75 or 80, I forget). Then I ran the overall Audyssey process for, I think 5 of my 9 seating locations. I don't know what all it does, but one thing that was clear, is it adjusts DB of output volume. For my subs, I think one was -9Db and the other -12 Db.

I decided to set my receiver at 0, which I think means it is at Reference volume. I proceeded to play the start of Edge of Tomorrow a few times, and my iNuke only had a single orange/red light up on each channel.

I thought I had seen in heavy bass scenes you could expect that to pop up to 3 or 4 of the lights.

I don't have any 'mic' or measurement tools, other than Audyssey if you call it that... Does it sound like the Db correction from Audyssey was too much of a reduction in sound?

My 'come from' state is a sub-woofer that was part of a decent Sony HTiB set up... but, WOW I am amazed at how these sound/feel.
In Audyssey -12 is as far as it tracks meaning your sub may be -15 and you do not know it. So you are not throwing a lot of signal to the Amp. I try to adjust my sub on that set up screen to 70db which is yellow (green being 75db and yellow agian at 80db) you want it at 70db. Then Audussey will bring the sub level up to around -6 or so. After tuned I add a house curve in the AVR setupup of another 3Db to bring it to -3. If that is good to go then you are set if not it is time to tweek the gain of the amp. Remmember where the gain of the amp from the first step is at 70Db, 75Db and at 80Db when fiddeling with the sub woffer level setup screen as a place to start.
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post #2483 of 5280 Old 11-20-2015, 12:32 PM
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On my 4520, after audessey, I set AVR to 0 on the sub gain, and then set inuke to 3 o'clock position... On some movies, I adjust AVR gain to +2-6 depending on how old the movie is... Some movies have very weak bass, especially xfinity cable tv!
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post #2484 of 5280 Old 11-20-2015, 01:06 PM
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Probably not the best place to ask this but how much does any of your SI 18ht 'move' when it hits bass? I feel like I can't even see my sub moving much at all. I remember my car subs back in the day would look like they were going to jump out of the enclosure and my si in the Marty cube hardly moves - not sure if I ha hve it hooked up wrong
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post #2485 of 5280 Old 11-20-2015, 05:37 PM
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It's possible that if you have a big room-related peak in output at the frequency which is being used to set the sub levels, which means the levels everywhere else are too low.

I've heard that you can use the Audessey mic with REW to measure response. Or else get a proper calibrated measurement mic. Then you can see what's going on. Some EQ might help you out.
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post #2486 of 5280 Old 11-20-2015, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flynnr View Post
Probably not the best place to ask this but how much does any of your SI 18ht 'move' when it hits bass? I feel like I can't even see my sub moving much at all. I remember my car subs back in the day would look like they were going to jump out of the enclosure and my si in the Marty cube hardly moves - not sure if I ha hve it hooked up wrong
Some frequencies the cone will hardly move, others the cone will have a lot of movement. I think the HT18 really moves a lot around 20-35hz or so and <15hz ... all the other frequencies have much less cone movement but are still loud.
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post #2487 of 5280 Old 11-24-2015, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squiers007 View Post
Down-firing is perfectly fine. Just make sure you leave at least 3-4" of clearance between the floor and the outside edge of the surround. My two end-tables are down firing and perform flawlessly.
thanks Squires - almost getting to the point of being able to start the build on my cube and mini.

Watched the first video in the OP on how to assemble and i don't have a brad nailer to hold the pieces together. I do have some clamps that i will be using but can i assemble everything with a kreg jig that i bought when building my projector screen ?

I don't see any reason why i couldn't but just want to check just in case.

And what kind of screws are recommended to attach the driver ? I don't think i will be recessing the driver as i am considering the downfiring design.
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post #2488 of 5280 Old 11-24-2015, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dchabby View Post
thanks Squires - almost getting to the point of being able to start the build on my cube and mini.

Watched the first video in the OP on how to assemble and i don't have a brad nailer to hold the pieces together. I do have some clamps that i will be using but can i assemble everything with a kreg jig that i bought when building my projector screen ?

I don't see any reason why i couldn't but just want to check just in case.

And what kind of screws are recommended to attach the driver ? I don't think i will be recessing the driver as i am considering the downfiring design.
Clamps work fine if you don't have a brad nailer, its just a bit slower assembling because you need to wait for the glue to dry unless you have a lot of clamps!

Also, no need for the Kreg jig unless you don't want to see any screws/fill in the holes. Using a Kreg is nice, but again requires a lot more time and only for a visual benefit, not structural.

Also, if you are going to do down-firing I would still recommend recessing the driver because it gives you an extra 3/4" of clearance between the floor and the surround...

I think i used #10 drywall screws to mount my driver and used 3/4" pine blocks to provide a full 1.5" for the screws to bite into.

Check out my End-Table Marty Build
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post #2489 of 5280 Old 11-25-2015, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dchabby View Post
i don't have a brad nailer to hold the pieces together. I do have some clamps that i will be using
While squires007 is the expert, I thought I'd chime in and affirm that my down-firing Marty is awesome. In my case, it was a matter of keeping the driver out of sight to retain spousal acceptance. I recessed the driver to gain a bit more clearance as mentioned. I also used clamps and they worked fine, just took a little longer. I actually bought a cheap brad nailer for the project but returned it after I figured I'd just cause more harm than good with it!
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post #2490 of 5280 Old 11-29-2015, 06:34 AM
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I have had my four full Marty's up and running for a couple of weeks now and they are really nice, definitely dig deeper than my sealed subs, that being said I was wondering if I could do even better by changing the drivers to UXL-18's, would they play nice with the Marty's? Also if this is feasible I might even kick around the idea of building four cubes for the Dayton drivers and integrate them somehow, does this sound like a good plan?
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