MartySub FAQ - Page 91 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2701 of 5096 Old 01-10-2016, 12:05 AM
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Yeah, I was about to edit my post, I might as well use 4 sheets since I will need extra material for the bracing regardless.
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post #2702 of 5096 Old 01-10-2016, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadowed View Post
At least they agreed to cut it.

Someone said their store will not cut MDF.
Suprising? Home Depot and Lowes have been cutting MDF to my exact specs for 10+ years from buidling speaker boxes for cars to home improvment projects. I will say that for some reason their saw at times can be an 1/8in off. I always request (and offer to tip if they will take it but most of the time they wont) they measure my cuts with another tape measurer and I don't have any problems at all.
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post #2703 of 5096 Old 01-10-2016, 01:21 AM
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Originally Posted by NODES View Post
I would not attempt straight cuts with with a jig saw. Home depot is terrible at cutting the wood to your correct length, been there done that too many times.
Did a bit online browsing, maybe I can get by using these two
http://www.rona.ca/en/7-1-4-in-circular-saw-00275685
http://www.rona.ca/en/jigsaw-with-cu...l-5-a-00275886

In stock very close to my home, not expensive either .. for how often I will be using these I hope they will suffice.
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post #2704 of 5096 Old 01-10-2016, 01:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alextr75 View Post
Did a bit online browsing, maybe I can get by using these two
http://www.rona.ca/en/7-1-4-in-circular-saw-00275685
http://www.rona.ca/en/jigsaw-with-cu...l-5-a-00275886

In stock very close to my home, not expensive either .. for how often I will be using these I hope they will suffice.
Try a rental store or pawn shop or something... sell it back when done.
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post #2705 of 5096 Old 01-10-2016, 01:58 PM
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Ok guys I have two of my UXL's and should have the other two soon, I need some recommendations on what amp to get to power my four sealed Dayton's and how to integrate them to the Marty's, which minidsp should I go with?
Thanks!
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post #2706 of 5096 Old 01-10-2016, 02:08 PM
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Assuming you are talking about the ultimax 2 inuke6000dsp should do it.

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post #2707 of 5096 Old 01-10-2016, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpate88 View Post
Assuming you are talking about the ultimax 2 inuke6000dsp should do it.

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Mach 5 UXL 18
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post #2708 of 5096 Old 01-10-2016, 03:46 PM
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4 sealed daytons is what you said

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post #2709 of 5096 Old 01-10-2016, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by rpate88 View Post
4 sealed daytons is what you said

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Yes, the sealed will have the Dayton's and the Marty's will be the UXL.
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post #2710 of 5096 Old 01-10-2016, 04:39 PM
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Well I was really hoping to get started on the project today, but spent most of the time reading through the 90 pages of information and finally finished, sure feels like an accomplishment and was really worth it .. Plenty of information and potential pitfalls, so thank you everyone for all the information given.

Hopefully tonight or tomorrow night I can maybe get the MDF from HD, and then do bits of work through the next several evenings as I will not have much free time until next weekend.

Quick question, when I got my brad nailer, they only had a 1000 pc box of the 18g 1-1/4" nails.
I believe most are using 1-1/2" or 2" ones, would the 1-1/4" still work decently or should I buy a box of longer ones ?

Also if anyone around here is from the Lower Mainland and knows where I can find Ultralight MDF, please let me know, maybe it will make my project a little bit easier.
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post #2711 of 5096 Old 01-10-2016, 05:03 PM
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MartySub FAQ

When using the Brad nails the normal size everyone uses is 1 1/2 to 2 inches so it grabs more of the second mdf piece. The wood glue or pl construction adhesive is what really holds and bonds the wood together. If you already bought the Brad nails I would just use the ones you bought. They basically just hold the panels in place while your putting the other boards in place. Then you clamp everything together.

Last edited by eng-399; 01-10-2016 at 05:07 PM.
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post #2712 of 5096 Old 01-10-2016, 05:06 PM
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The 1.25" will be fine, not sure about the ultralight as I've used 3/4 on all of mine.
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post #2713 of 5096 Old 01-11-2016, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dchabby View Post
ok so I am finally ready to start building my subs as the holiday season is over and I will be less busy.

Here is a picture of the front of my room (messy I know) :


Originally I was going to build 2 marty cubes and put them on either side of the component table but was quickly talked into making a least 1 full/mini marty and was going to put the cube up front and the full on the other side of the room behind my couch.

Was thinking yesterday about this and came up with the idea of making a full marty to fit in the space that my current component table takes and then have 2 little racks on either side of if to hold my components. Then I could also fit another full, or a cube behind the couch.

Now I don't know if it will work with the dimenions I have so that is where I need a little help.

The current table is 69" x 20" x 20". I need to keep the height pretty close to 20", plus or minus an inch or 2, as I need to put my center speaker on top as well as maybe a component or 2. Will having the center speaker on top of the marty cause any issues/problems ? The height is also restricted due to the screen being as low as it is although that can also be moved up an inch or 2.

The length can be an inch or 2 longer as well as the width and I am also hoping to have it downfiring so I know I will need 3-4" clearance on the bottom.

So with these parameters in mind will I be able to build a full marty and have the same performance as the regular design ? I guess loosing a little performance will be acceptable if having 2 full martys in the room will be much better than my original plan of 1 full and 1 cube.

My original thread asking for advice is here - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...endations.html
but for those not wanting to read it I have 2 - SI18 D4's and will be powering with an Inuke3000DSP.
So I am having a hard time deciding what I want to do here and would like to know what people think of building 2 Johnnysubs and having them on either side of my component table ?

I would have to shorten my table in order for them to fit but that is not a problem as it is homemade and an easy fix.

It seems like a decent compromise from having 2 marty cubes or building the full marty in the weird dimensions and I think I will like the look of it better.

Thoughts ?
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post #2714 of 5096 Old 01-12-2016, 08:47 AM
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Hi Guys I have a quick question.

I am just getting around to using the flat pack that I bought. I will be putting everything together this weekend but had a question about the cabling.

Is it possible to have the 12awg cable go from the sub terminals to about 30 feet away in my AV closet and then connect the speakon connector/cables from there? I already have the speaker cable in the wall and would rather not have to purchase a 30 foot speakon connector.
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post #2715 of 5096 Old 01-12-2016, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by tilani View Post
Hi Guys I have a quick question.

I am just getting around to using the flat pack that I bought. I will be putting everything together this weekend but had a question about the cabling.

Is it possible to have the 12awg cable go from the sub terminals to about 30 feet away in my AV closet and then connect the speakon connector/cables from there? I already have the speaker cable in the wall and would rather not have to purchase a 30 foot speakon connector.
My apologies if I maybe do not understand the question that well.

When you say "from the sub terminals" do you mean from the Speakon connector on your sub enclosure ?

Maybe you could just buy these and build your own 30 foot Speakon cable by just attaching them to the existing 12awg wire you have.

http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...ector--092-190
http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...or-4p--092-192

I believe there are also Speakon (or also RCA) wall plates that may or may not work or be needed in your scenario.
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post #2716 of 5096 Old 01-12-2016, 04:51 PM
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All eight of my subs use something like this:

All 8 subs run off a .1 avr with bass shakers. No voltage problems.
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post #2717 of 5096 Old 01-12-2016, 08:26 PM
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Hi guys, I want to build two Martysub's using a the Infinity 1262w and inuke 3000dsp. I am not good at doing the model , can anyone tell me what "Marty box" is best for a 20hz tune? thank you
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post #2718 of 5096 Old 01-12-2016, 08:31 PM
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post #2719 of 5096 Old 01-12-2016, 09:29 PM
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Martycube

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Equipment:
Epson 5025ub
130" diy spandex screen
B&W 683 LR
Yamaha Aventage RX‑A850
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post #2720 of 5096 Old 01-12-2016, 10:06 PM
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Thank you rpate88 , and the Martycube will give me the 20hz tune?
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post #2721 of 5096 Old 01-13-2016, 04:30 AM
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Yep

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post #2722 of 5096 Old 01-13-2016, 05:46 AM
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MartySub FAQ

Quote:
Originally Posted by mathbern View Post
Hi guys, I want to build two Martysub's using a the Infinity 1262w and inuke 3000dsp. I am not good at doing the model , can anyone tell me what "Marty box" is best for a 20hz tune? thank you

How many Infinities do you want to use? Just one per box, or a couple? Bigger boxes give more output, and a full Marty could support 2-3 of the 12s.
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post #2723 of 5096 Old 01-13-2016, 12:50 PM
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HPF for UM18 in MiniMarty

I was wondering if I was to put the UM18 in the MiniMarty using these size specifications from the first post



Is it safe to assume a HPF of 20Hz in my iNuke6000DSP would be enough to protect the driver, or do I have to make sure I run WiniSD and get all the info correctly, with all the braces etc .. to get the final number ?

On the first page I found this info but not sure if this could vary based on amp used or bracing used.

Quote:
Minimarty - blue
volume = 9.0 c.f. , tuning = 18hz ultimax 18 2000w**
I also tried to use WiniSD at home, but as a newbie attempt to use it, the tuning frequencies I was getting were between 19Hz and 20Hz if using some rough calculations.

If I do have to do all calculations because bracing can change the result, when calculating the volume of the box, I guess I have to remove the ports, do I also need to remove the volume of the driver ? If so what is the best way to find it ?

If I can just set the HPF at 20 knowing its safe even better !
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post #2724 of 5096 Old 01-13-2016, 07:43 PM
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I use my Mini Marty wit a hpf for the UM 18 and no problems at reference level with all the heavy hitters movies.
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post #2725 of 5096 Old 01-13-2016, 07:52 PM
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I use my Mini Marty wit a hpf for the UM 18 and no problems at reference level with all the heavy hitters movies.
You setting the HPF on your avr or iNuke?
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post #2726 of 5096 Old 01-13-2016, 08:01 PM
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Set the hpf on the I Nuke. Currently, use no hpf on any of the 6 vented subs but, I don't encourage others to do this. You can over drive the sub without a hpf.
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post #2727 of 5096 Old 01-13-2016, 08:04 PM
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double tap

Last edited by Stripperclip; 01-13-2016 at 08:08 PM.
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post #2728 of 5096 Old 01-13-2016, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by derrickdj1 View Post
Set the hpf on the I Nuke. Currently, use no hpf on any of the 6 vented subs but, I don't encourage others to do this. You can over drive the sub without a hpf.
I got a new (older) x1100w and inuke6000 and no sub, I got stuff on order. I've read to set the hpf on the avr but I know you can also do it on the inuke. I don't know with ways is best.
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post #2729 of 5096 Old 01-13-2016, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stripperclip View Post
I got a new (older) x1100w and inuke6000 and no sub, I got stuff on order. I've read to set the hpf on the avr but I know you can also do it on the inuke. I don't know with ways is best.
The AVR has an LPF, not an HPF. It rolls off everything ABOVE the set point (allows Lows to Pass the Filter). HPFs roll off BELOW the set point (allows Highs to Pass the Filter), so it doesn't blow up from over excursion when it unloads below port tuning.

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Last edited by Augerhandle; 01-13-2016 at 08:40 PM.
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post #2730 of 5096 Old 01-13-2016, 08:54 PM
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ah...got it.
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