Martysub is a ported subwoofer with a slot port. Its not a new design but it has become very popular for several reasons :
1) easy to cut and good use of a sheet of mdf or Plywood.
2) powered by inuke amp which is dirt cheap
3) using si18d4 allows huge spl from inuke3000dsp .
Lots of other reasons as well. The first post covers from start to finish of the cab. Post two covers hooking up to your system and optimizing. The third post will have pics of various subs. Most of the info here will be for any ported sub. If you want to contribute to the FAQ just pose a question with the answer and if helpful I will add it. It will take a few days to flush out the info.
The whole Marty line of subs were designed by LTD02. His tireless patience helped me when I was a noob and has helped hundreds of others. John took some of the design from NeoDAN. Who is neodan ? Many years ago, there was a forum member, neodan, who created a line of subwoofers that he called the "easy button" subs. they were meant to be large, low-tuned, bang-for-the-buck type subs. when we cooked up the design for the original martysub, I had long forgotten about the "easy button" line. upon rediscovering his subs though and how similar the martysubs were to his, I feel that he should get some sort of mention. here is one of his subs:
Hopefully this thread will be a spot for people either interested in starting a sub or answering those questions to help you finish. Also a general spot for Martytalk ! Who is Marty .......
1) What are the standard sizes with SPL chart
Microcube - green
volume = 3.75 c.f. , tuning = 23hz Dayton 390ho with 1100 watts
Martycube - red
volume = 4.75 c.f. , tuning = 20hz
si 18 1100w
Minimarty - blue
volume = 9.0 c.f. , tuning = 18hz ultimax 18 2000w**
Full Marty - black
volume = 11.0 c.f. , tuning = 17hz uxl18 2200w**
**might want to limit the ultimax to 1200w or so until it gets proven out. uxl iirc suggested amp power is 2000w max.
Here shows the difference in output of drivers in same cab
1a) Why not just build sealed subs. Easier to build ?
They are easier but the large ported subs simply offers the most bass for the money if you have the space for the large enclosures. not everybody does and not everybody cares about bang for the buck. it is all a tradeoff. the martysubs generally trade off larger size for more bass at the lowest possible cost while remaining a relatively simple build. Here is comparison with same driver with 1100 watts in a sealed cabinet (blue) vs. a martysub (red)
If you want to model yourself here is how
Grab a copy of winisd. if using windows 7, go here: https://www.facebook.com/Winisd
Enter thiele small parameters for a driver (aka t/s specs):
make sure all fields are clear, then
enter qes then hit tab, enter qms
hit tab a couple times and let it calculate qts
hit tab a few times to move to mms
enter mms, re, bl, le, sd, xmax, and pe
by using tab after entering each data, it will calculate what it needs to
i no longer get any conflicts
sometimes the specs calculated don't match exactly the manufacturer specs, but its only rounding type errors, so it is not material
2) What are the sizes of the four standard Marty's ? Can they be adjusted to fit my room ?
You can customize the size to fit your room as long as the cuft stay close. Minimarty could be 2' by 30" by 36". The minimarty and full can lay horizontal as well. If the internal volume of the sub is kept the same, and the cross-sectional area of the port is kept the same, and the length of the port is kept the same, then the sub will pretty much perform the same no matter what shape you cook up, which way the port fires, or which face of the sub you mount the driver on. If you choose a full size marty with ~11 cubic and a slot port that is 3" tall and 22.5" wide (24"minus to slot braces at 0.75" each) and 36" long, the cross-sectional area of the port is 3" * 22.5" = 67.5 square inches. so if you want to make the port 18" wide, then it would be 67.5 / 18 = 3.75" tall x 36" long. If the port is an inch or two too long or too short, it won't make a material difference.
3) Which Marty for me ?
I get asked this a lot. Everyone's bass needs (yes its a need not a want) are different but here's some general guidelines. For a small room under 1500cuft a pair of the micro and cube are potent. In a medium size 1500-3000cuft a mini and a cube are good. In a large over 3000cuft room a pair of mini/full are really good. Bigger is better so try to convince the rest of your family that you need a fridge in the living room
For tactile feel I recommend having one nearfield . I have a micro a foot away and it rumbles my seat at 90dbs.
4) Which drivers can I use ?
The micro is very small ported box and doesn't have a lot of options. I use this
Could also use Eminence Lab15. Any other 15" driver that will work in 3.75cuft cab.
Cube has lots of options
Here are some
The 18" has single voice coil and dual voice coil. For wiring options the D4 (dual) is better. You can use the 15" model as well. The lose a couple of db's.
The Dayton and Si measure very close. Dayton can handle a little more power.
The uxl18 is a beast. Its pricey but gives you 3-4dbs more then Si/Dayton. Can use there ixl18 as well.
The Minimarty/Full cab can use all of the subs in cube as well as
The ultimax is new and we haven't seen many builds with it yet.
Should I get Stereo Integrity D2 or D4 if there is an option?
It depends on the amp. many folks run the inuke 3000dsp or the 6000dsp. the 3000dsp can handle a 2 ohm load per channel (that's really pushing it, but it can do it) and the 6000 can handle a 4 ohm load per channel (again, that's really pushing it, but it can do it).
With the 3000dsp, the d4 drivers are a good choice. each driver can be wired in parallel for 2 ohms. and then one driver connected to each channel. the amp will supply approx. 1100 watts or so to each driver in this configuration.With the 6000dsp, the d4 drivers are again a good choice because they can be wired in series for 8 ohms per driver. one driver per channel produces about 1100 watts to each driver. HOWEVER, this configuration is much less taxing on the amp. If you are only going to get one driver, and want to run the 3000dsp, grab a D2 and wire it in series for 4 ohms. then run it in bridged mode on the 3000dsp. that will give up to 2200 watts (which you can back down to 1100 with the limiter). HOWEVER, this configuration is much less taxing on the amp than running one driver on each channel at 2 ohms.
5) What is tuning ?
Tuning is where the subwoofer will drop off significant in spl. Music rarely goes below 25hz (pipe organ or bass track being exception ) but movies go much lower. Lots of debate in how low you need to cover but if you only have two subs then 17hz tuning is near bottom of what you need. You will get good output 3-4 hz below tuning usually . Low tuning for a ported box needs space. That's why full Marty is lowest tune.
6) Ok , I know which cab I am going to build , what tools do I need ?
You will need something to cut the wood. A skillsaw works fine with a straight edge. Tracksaw is even better and a tablesaw is the quickest. You will need :
* a jigsaw/router to cut the driver hole
* drill to screw down driver ( could get away with screwdriver but more difficult)
* clamps (3' and 4' depending upon cab)
A Brad nailer/compressor is great to have and really speeds things up. Also I recommend a router to flush trim edges. Also a orbital sander saves your hands wear and tear.
If on a budget its hard to beat
For clamps there awesome. Lots of differing opinions on what brand of tools to buy. My personal opinion is you can go cheap on clamps , jigsaw and palm Sanders. Skillsaw , routers, and nailer its good to at least get medium price level.
You will need glue. Most use Gorilla glue (original expands)or titebond (the different versions have different working times). For filling small cracks or holes this works great
For large cracks/gaps construction adhesive is good.
7) I have the tools..... Just give me the damn cutlist !
Here is a program for layout on sheet to maximize cutting
8) How do I build these babies ?
Here is simple build of vertical minimarty
Here is a video build I did for horizontal minimarty with veneer . Same general idea for all.
Here is my youtube channel with video in sections
I generally build this path
* attach sides to bottom
* attach back to bottom (put baffle in to square up without glue)
* attach port bottom rails and then port bottom
* attach port back rails and then port back
* install bracing and then foam
* install baffle and then top
9) What about Bracing ?
Good question my young woodworker. There are several ways to do it. Some like a series of dowelling
while I find window bracing the easiest . A window brace is this
A general guideline is to have crossbracing at least every 10". The micro and cube use one crossbrace. The minimarty needs 2-3 and full 3-4.
Will show a completed bracing pic soon
10) What about lining and filling the inside ?
A ported subwoofer does not need filling with pillows but the walls do need lining. A good choice is a foam bed topper
Walmart have them cheap. Cover the walls but don't block the port. I use spray adhesive to attach
11) Is my options for a finish of the cab limited to paint ?
Nope ! There are three main ways you could finish your sub.
You could paint it regular latex paint. (Downfiring cube)
Second is to duratex it.
Lastly you could put a nice veneer and stain it.