Lilmike's Picowrecker - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 239 Old 09-17-2015, 09:18 AM
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Got the baffle on and bracing in. Didnt get a pic with bracing yet though.
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post #32 of 239 Old 09-20-2015, 07:26 PM
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Went to the local big box store and picked up my lumber this morning. It looked okay with no voids but the stuff cracked. I think it'll hold up. Finished the build in time for dinner. Let it dry a little and listened to it a bit. I'm impressed as usual. Looking forward to giving it the beans.

I'm powering it with an old SWA-100 from BIC America. It says it is 100w at both 8 and 4 ohms, which is confusing to me. The built in crossovers, however, I think line up well but I'll measure it and send the results off to Mike.
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post #33 of 239 Old 09-20-2015, 08:06 PM
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I made a full size pdf of the picowrecker with all dimensions listed. The dimensions are overly precise, but I didn't want to do any rounding. You can be the judge of how precise you want to be.

My plan is to have this printed on a large format printer at work at 100% then transfer the necessary points onto the wood. If you know some way to have this done, this build should be very easy.

Let me know if you discover any issues with this pdf.
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post #34 of 239 Old 09-21-2015, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by chilort View Post
Went to the local big box store and picked up my lumber this morning. It looked okay with no voids but the stuff cracked. I think it'll hold up. Finished the build in time for dinner. Let it dry a little and listened to it a bit. I'm impressed as usual. Looking forward to giving it the beans.

I'm powering it with an old SWA-100 from BIC America. It says it is 100w at both 8 and 4 ohms, which is confusing to me. The built in crossovers, however, I think line up well but I'll measure it and send the results off to Mike.
Measured it this afternoon and I think I need a new amp. Drat.
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post #35 of 239 Old 09-21-2015, 09:57 PM
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Got the picowrecker fired up tonight! Had a pretty bad leak at first around the holes that the screws go through in the woofer. I think i have it fixed with some weather stripping covering the holes. It is sounding really good at the moment! It replaced a table tuba with the mcm electronics 8" woofer. I really liked my table tuba too but dont have enough amps to run all these subs now. The alpine is a more capable woofer which i think is contributing to what seems like more output. Plus this design plays a little deeper too. For a $90 sub i think this is totally worth building about three more and placing theoughout my room. Next step is to flush trim, fill imperfections, sand and paint.
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post #36 of 239 Old 09-22-2015, 06:51 AM
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Mike has recommended this for sealing woofers to cabs. Works well.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-B...-110/100212441
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post #37 of 239 Old 09-22-2015, 07:52 AM
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Mike has recommended this for sealing woofers to cabs. Works well.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-B...-110/100212441
Thanks @chilort I will get some of that!
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post #38 of 239 Old 09-22-2015, 08:06 AM
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I've used it on my LilWrecker, PicoWrecker, and eWaves. I still have about 1/2 of it left. Oh, and I think I used it to seal an electrical box I added to the exterior of my house as well (its intended purpose).
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post #39 of 239 Old 09-22-2015, 08:09 AM
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@chilort Sounds like its some good stuff! What amp are you going to get since your bic amp wouldnt work?
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post #40 of 239 Old 09-22-2015, 08:21 AM
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@chilort Sounds like its some good stuff! What amp are you going to get since your bic amp wouldnt work?
I haven't made up my mind. The old amp has too severe of a high pass filter that is too high for this subwoofer. Even though intend on using it for outdoor use, it really is dropping off too much the bottom end. And it is also probably underpowered so that I'm worried about clipping.

I have a Crown XLS 1000 that I'm using for my LilWrecker. I am tempted to buy another one of those because they're cheap. Or buy a Crown XLS 1500 and use the Crown XLS 1500 for my LilWrecker and move the XLS 1000 to my PicoWrecker. But that would leave me without good DSP capabilities. So I've been looking at an iNuke 1000 DSP because they are also inexpensive but then the connections are a pain in the butt.

And then I think I should buy really nice seeing for my LilWrecker rather than these Crown amps. But my Crown amps measure fine so is nothing wrong with them other than the potential stigma that are cheap. And I don't have a golden ear (too much time with loud cars, loud farm machinery, and loud music).

I really don't know. I was hoping to hear from Mike to be honest. But I know he is incredibly busy.
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post #41 of 239 Old 09-22-2015, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chilort View Post
I haven't made up my mind. The old amp has too severe of a high pass filter that is too high for this subwoofer. Even though intend on using it for outdoor use, it really is dropping off too much the bottom end. And it is also probably underpowered so that I'm worried about clipping.
Bummer

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I have a Crown XLS 1000 that I'm using for my LilWrecker. I am tempted to buy another one of those because they're cheap. Or buy a Crown XLS 1500 and use the Crown XLS 1500 for my LilWrecker and move the XLS 1000 to my PicoWrecker. But that would leave me without good DSP capabilities. So I've been looking at an iNuke 1000 DSP because they are also inexpensive but then the connections are a pain in the butt.

And then I think I should buy really nice seeing for my LilWrecker rather than these Crown amps. But my Crown amps measure fine so is nothing wrong with them other than the potential stigma that are cheap. And I don't have a golden ear (too much time with loud cars, loud farm machinery, and loud music).

I really don't know. I was hoping to hear from Mike to be honest. But I know he is incredibly busy.
I dont really have anything bad to say about my inuke 3000dsp other than the fan, which I have a replacement fan for. Just need to install it. I got lucky in that my onkyo receiver has two sub outs so I didnt have to mess around with splitting the signal or using the biamp mode in the inuke (which really doesnt sound that hard to pull off).
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post #42 of 239 Old 09-22-2015, 10:12 AM
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I dont really have anything bad to say about my inuke 3000dsp other than the fan, which I have a replacement fan for. Just need to install it. I got lucky in that my onkyo receiver has two sub outs so I didnt have to mess around with splitting the signal or using the biamp mode in the inuke (which really doesnt sound that hard to pull off).
Yeah, this is our outdoor having-fun-in-the-cul-de-sac-with-the-neighbors setup. I have an old Onkyo TX-7000 (so no sub out) powering a pair of eWaves built from suggestions from Mike and then the PicoWrecker will now supply a little better bottom end. I was really hoping to get away with my BIC. I know the PicoWrecker can handle the iNuke 3000 but that ends up costing more than the build of the PicoWrecker itself. Amps do last forever. I might scrounge around eBay and Craigslist. I'm not in a terrible hurry. Being primarily for outside the fan noise wouldn't be a problem.
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post #43 of 239 Old 09-22-2015, 10:15 AM
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Yeah, this is our outdoor having-fun-in-the-cul-de-sac-with-the-neighbors setup. I have an old Onkyo TX-7000 (so no sub out) powering a pair of eWaves built from suggestions from Mike and then the PicoWrecker will now supply a little better bottom end. I was really hoping to get away with my BIC. I know the PicoWrecker can handle the iNuke 3000 but that ends up costing more than the build of the PicoWrecker itself. Amps do last forever. I might scrounge around eBay and Craigslist. I'm not in a terrible hurry. Being primarily for outside the fan noise wouldn't be a problem.
Ah all good points @chilort . Sounds like a fun cul-de-sac!
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post #44 of 239 Old 09-22-2015, 07:04 PM
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Not sure if I jumped the gun or jumped the shark but I ordered an iNuke 1000 DSP tonight with connectors and everything should be here Thursday (go Amazon Prime!). While I often not in a hurry but I'm oh so impatient.
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post #45 of 239 Old 09-22-2015, 07:13 PM
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I think a bridged 1000 might be a little too much juice but you could use the limiter. One channel would be under powering it.

Lilmike suggested to me for a high pass:

22hz / 24db per octave

I'm using a 3000 at 4 ohm stereo to power a pair. Not done yet though.
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post #46 of 239 Old 09-22-2015, 07:37 PM
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I think a bridged 1000 might be a little too much juice but you could use the limiter. One channel would be under powering it.

Lilmike suggested to me for a high pass:

22hz / 24db per octave

I'm using a 3000 at 4 ohm stereo to power a pair. Not done yet though.
Yes. Turning it down with too much power is better for the diver than turning it up with too little power.

"More power." Jeremy Clarkson has always been correct.
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post #47 of 239 Old 09-23-2015, 12:38 PM
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Not sure if I jumped the gun or jumped the shark but I ordered an iNuke 1000 DSP tonight with connectors and everything should be here Thursday (go Amazon Prime!). While I often not in a hurry but I'm oh so impatient.
Sweet! That will be fun. I just pulled the trigger on another nu3000dsp. I found a coupon online to parts express for $15 off an order of $200 or more. Got it for $265. Amazon was same price. I will miss the prime shipping but I saved a few bucks to apply towards another alpine sws 10.
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post #48 of 239 Old 09-25-2015, 02:39 PM
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Finally got mine measured (near field) with the iNuke. Looks just like what's been posted so far. Whew.

The iNuke bridging "instructions" are a little vague. I have an iNuke 1000 DSP. I used the controls on the front to set it up for bridged mode. I then connected the positive terminal to 1+ and the negative terminal to 2+ all on the A connector. I'm getting noise so it must be the right thing.
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post #49 of 239 Old 09-25-2015, 03:40 PM
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That's correct for bridged. Hopefully you also set the HPF.

Have you cranked it up yet?
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post #50 of 239 Old 09-25-2015, 05:56 PM
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That's correct for bridged. Hopefully you also set the HPF.

Have you cranked it up yet?
Yes, we did a little back to back with my LilWrecker on what is basically the same power. That little box is impressive. While the THD and SPL are similar (though the Lil has an octave or so the Pico) the Lil sounds so much more effortless. I don't know what measurement captures the difference.

The Pico is going to be great for our purposes. If you have the space for an extra refrigerator, then I'd recommend a Lil. If you have space for two extra refrigerators then I could only recommend two LilWreckers.
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post #51 of 239 Old 09-25-2015, 06:24 PM
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Thanks. That's just the type of review I've been looking for.

I'm putting two in my basement with a concrete floor. I did some tests that showed me anything below 24hz only shakes the pictures on the walls and causes a bunch of rattles. I can't feel a thing in my chair. So the Pico should offer all that I need in a smallish box.
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post #52 of 239 Old 09-25-2015, 06:58 PM
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Thanks. That's just the type of review I've been looking for.

I'm putting two in my basement with a concrete floor. I did some tests that showed me anything below 24hz only shakes the pictures on the walls and causes a bunch of rattles. I can't feel a thing in my chair. So the Pico should offer all that I need in a smallish box.
Check out this thread on how to get more tactile feel with a concrete floor.
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post #53 of 239 Old 09-28-2015, 08:41 AM
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Rainy weekend so we didn't get to play outside like we often do. To the extent it can be trusted, the weather for next weekend looks better. I'm still amazed at the output from a horn this size. I might rename my PicoWrecker to the QuarterWrecker since it is about 1/4 the size of the LilWrecker. I need all the SPL I can get on the bottom end to match up with the eWave mods you cooked up (I've got mains running on 80w/ch and the sub running on 1000w).

Anyway, thanks Mike for the great design, assistance, and all you do.
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post #54 of 239 Old 09-28-2015, 09:17 PM
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Here it is wired up in parallel showing a 2 ohm stereo load to an nu3000dsp. Hitting 3 lights on a 30hz test tone. You cant really tell but is shaking stuff in the garage pretty good.

https://instagram.com/p/8MqVodMvOG/

And another short vid of the finish. 1 coat of primer. 3 coats of semi gloss black applied with a smooth foam roller.

https://instagram.com/p/8MsqDDsvBm/

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post #55 of 239 Old 09-28-2015, 10:00 PM
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Here it is wired up in parallel showing a 2 ohm stereo load to an nu3000dsp. Hitting 3 lights on a 30hz test tone. You cant really tell but is shaking stuff in the garage pretty good.

https://instagram.com/p/8MqVodMvOG/

And another short vid of the finish. 1 coat of primer. 3 coats of semi gloss black applied with a smooth foam roller.

https://instagram.com/p/8MsqDDsvBm/
Be careful with the high-powered test tones. You can let the smoke out of a driver's coil quicker than you can turn the knob.

Yeah, I learned that the hard way.

The main concern is to avoid tones near the impedance minimas, make sure that the driver is moving. Dumping lots of power into a cone that isn't moving much is a recipe for smoke.

Nice looking work, cabinet and finish look great.
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post #56 of 239 Old 09-29-2015, 06:14 AM
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Be careful with the high-powered test tones. You can let the smoke out of a driver's coil quicker than you can turn the knob.

Yeah, I learned that the hard way.
I was definitely being careful. I had been slowly turning up the Inuke to see where the limit was.

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The main concern is to avoid tones near the impedance minimas, make sure that the driver is moving. Dumping lots of power into a cone that isn't moving much is a recipe for smoke.
The cone looked to me like it was moving quite a bit at 30hz. I don't recall seeing an impedance graph with this design (I could have very easily missed it too).

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Nice looking work, cabinet and finish look great.
Thank you very much @lilmike ! With each new build I learn something from the previous and carry that over to the new build. Thank you for all of the great designs you take the time make and provide for free to this community.
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post #57 of 239 Old 10-08-2015, 11:25 AM
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Now that I'm knee deep in my dual picowrecker build I thought I'd share an important tip.

If you plan to use a brad nailer instead of clamps make sure you start in the middle of the cab. You need access to the corner joints with the nail gun.

Fortunately I only blocked myself once on the first Cab.
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post #58 of 239 Old 10-11-2015, 09:08 PM
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The plans that are attached at the beginning of this thread do not show any bracing. I've seen different bracing methods used by different people. I'm probably going to use dowels but I'm not sure how many and at what locations. Did the original plans show the bracing?
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post #59 of 239 Old 10-12-2015, 04:17 PM
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My bracing suggestions should be in the plans package. Might be labeled 6b instead of 6d, the changes between those revs were concentrated on the throat end.

I'd put bracing in the shaded areas:



I like using scrap plywood as bracing, because I almost always have some scrap plywood, and I can install the blind side with pocket screws as I build.
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post #60 of 239 Old 10-12-2015, 04:30 PM
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Thanks. I can't find bracing shown anywhere in the new plans. I downloaded the zip file.

I thought I saw one build where a brace was added from the middle of the small panel in the mouth and attached to the edge of the board across from it.
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