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post #301 of 653 Old 01-28-2015, 01:16 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Worked. Thank you very much!

What table saw fence did you get?
Vega PRO 50. Love it. I posted in the table saw thread in this forum about it. It's really nice, breath new life into my old saw.
Great deal for the money. Bought it on Amazon. Install was simple. Does a 42" rip. Dead nuts accurate.
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post #302 of 653 Old 01-28-2015, 01:24 PM
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Vega PRO 50. Love it. I posted in the table saw thread in this forum about it. It's really nice, breath new life into my old saw.
Great deal for the money. Bought it on Amazon. Install was simple. Does a 42" rip. Dead nuts accurate.
Yep. Bought that about 5 years ago...really like it. Oh, and that Festool track saw too. Good stuff. And looks like you've been busy!
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post #303 of 653 Old 01-28-2015, 01:27 PM - Thread Starter
 
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This thread moves fast!





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T
M2 dimensions: 47h×20w×14d

Your build looks awesome man and if you want to have a cage match with the M2's I'm up for that .
Mine is close. 17.5" wide. 13.5" deep. 42" high. I figured I could use a stand or a MBM to raise it up, but can't make it shorter.

I'm going for the poor mans version of the M2

We can do a cage match. That sounds fun. I am up in MA though.. it's hard for me to get that far south, I am bummed I am going to miss this weekend. Also, I'll need plenty of time to get these optimized. This is a long process to get them right. But I would absolutely love to go head to head with the M2. Those are my dream speakers, and quite a high bar. If I even get close, I'll be stoked.

I told @lemonslush we should go to the Harman Pro store in Manhattan sometime and get a demo. He's intersted in some JBL pro speakers. That or stop by @notnyt amd check out his.
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post #304 of 653 Old 01-28-2015, 01:31 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by dgage View Post
Yep. Bought that about 5 years ago...really like it. Oh, and that Festool track saw too. Good stuff. And looks like you've been busy!
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...l#post30685417

I had some post there about it.

Any thoughts on this: http://www.wixey.com/fence/index.html

Wondering if adding a digital LCD readout would make it MOAR BETTER ?

It seems so awesome now. It's so easy and accurate. And yes.. FESTOOL TRACK SAW for THE WIN. It's also wonderful.
A very potent speaker building combination. I need to upgrade my router next. I have a plain jane Hitachi, and a porter cable professional. I would like something a tad better though.

My next project is an outfeed table, and a router table extension for the new VEGA PRO fence and use that space up.
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post #305 of 653 Old 01-28-2015, 01:42 PM
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I have a couple Bosch 2.25 HP routers and rarely use them now that I have a Festool OF1000 and OF1400. I do use the Bosch Colt trim router but I leave a flush trim bit for veneer in it. They are expensive but I just love how all of the accessories just work together so well. I recently bought the MFS, which I didn't think I would but it makes nice circle cuts and repeatable square or rectangular cuts. I used that for the initial amp cutouts for my new subs.

You know, if we both stopped buying tools, we might be able to afford the M2s...well, maybe not.
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post #306 of 653 Old 01-28-2015, 01:46 PM - Thread Starter
 
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I used to laugh at the Festool guys. I never understood them, or what the fuss was about. I get it now. I would love the 1400 router. It's on my list. The prices just kill me though. I am going to try to hold out and grab a refurb. I got my REQ55 on refurb, and it was basically brand new. It's direct from Festool and mint, had brand new blade. Not even a scuff on it anywhere. Came with track and systainer case. For $332. Based on my most excellent experience I would consider doing that again. I love the MTF table- but I have a hard time spending $650 on a workbench that is smaller than my PC desk. DO WANT though...
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post #307 of 653 Old 01-28-2015, 03:38 PM
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Here's the polars for my TD15M in a 3 cu ft sealed box with a 17" wide baffle. I got these a couple weeks ago making a comparison with my acoustic resistance cabs. 3.5ms gate, in room, taken a bit closer than I like (about 45" away on axis with my wg). 1/24 octave smoothing. The data below 1khz is heavily smoothed and rolled-off due to the gate but I would use it for a 1k xo. If you have REW I could see about sending you the .mdat if you want to play with the data.

edit: The cursor is at what I would call the -6dB region which is at 45°.
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post #308 of 653 Old 01-28-2015, 04:09 PM
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Dont pay attention to Nate's stuff he hasn't a clue what he is doing. LOL

I just went to look at the Festool plunge saws and while I dont like the 900 or higher asking price here in OZ they do look awfully nice. And in a Eureka straight edge and for me the price is high but not really THAT high. Maybe someday if the price is right. That should be able to hold me off until I build a CNC.
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post #309 of 653 Old 01-28-2015, 04:13 PM
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Dont pay attention to Nate's stuff he hasn't a clue what he is doing. LOL

I just went to look at the Festool plunge saws and while I dont like the 900 or higher asking price here in OZ they do look awfully nice. And in a Eureka straight edge and for me the price is high but not really THAT high. Maybe someday if the price is right. That should be able to hold me off until I build a CNC.
The Festool is very good but one thing that you can put a price on (but it's astronomical) is safety. From the fact that the saw is a plunge saw to the riving knife, it is much safer than a traditional saw. That doesn't invlude the quality, accuracy, and system that is Festool. It isn't the only option on the market and it is expensive...but if mine were stolen, I'd replace it in a heart beat.
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post #310 of 653 Old 01-28-2015, 04:30 PM
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Yes I would to. I got to use one the other day to test out. Was very impressed. I will need to buy a few tools here in a few months so I can have a better finish to my mains and next sub build. ........finally.
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post #311 of 653 Old 01-28-2015, 04:31 PM - Thread Starter
 
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What you planning ?
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post #312 of 653 Old 01-28-2015, 04:54 PM
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Bosso like subs. Wifey has limited the space I can use significantly. So sealed dual opposed 15's will be my solution. Eventually have a pair of them. And the L/R will be 2 or 3way with an AMT or TPL-150H. Just havent decide yet. Still have to do subs first anyways.
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post #313 of 653 Old 01-28-2015, 05:56 PM
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Dont pay attention to Nate's stuff he hasn't a clue what he is doing. LOL
Ha.......the problem is sometimes I think I do!
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post #314 of 653 Old 01-28-2015, 06:09 PM
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Nate you have always provided very useful information and awesome prototypes. I just have to be a Smart but because I can only sit around and wait for my speakers to get to me before I can do anything. Although I will be building a small ported cabinet to test for my dual side by side 10's.
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post #315 of 653 Old 01-29-2015, 05:58 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Bosso like subs. Wifey has limited the space I can use significantly. So sealed dual opposed 15's will be my solution. Eventually have a pair of them. And the L/R will be 2 or 3way with an AMT or TPL-150H. Just havent decide yet. Still have to do subs first anyways.
What's your timeline on all that?
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post #316 of 653 Old 01-29-2015, 05:59 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by Nate Hansen View Post
Here's the polars for my TD15M in a 3 cu ft sealed box with a 17" wide baffle. I got these a couple weeks ago making a comparison with my acoustic resistance cabs. 3.5ms gate, in room, taken a bit closer than I like (about 45" away on axis with my wg). 1/24 octave smoothing. The data below 1khz is heavily smoothed and rolled-off due to the gate but I would use it for a 1k xo. If you have REW I could see about sending you the .mdat if you want to play with the data.

edit: The cursor is at what I would call the -6dB region which is at 45°.


Thanks !
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post #317 of 653 Old 01-29-2015, 06:22 AM
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What's your timeline on all that?
Well the 8's for the 2/3 way are on there way. The 10's I have already but waiting on the SEOS 18 I dont know which AMT or TPL I am going with but either wont be finished until around July. I will probably have one speaker finished and then buy the parts for the second. But once I have one completed I will most likely buy the parts with in another month.

That being said I am also saving for subs. Will have my subs completed by November time frame. That will be four 15's and I will also have a pair of ported 12's for subs in the towers. Although I might also just seal them. Looking at simulations is one thing and listening n room in room is another. First HT sub will probably be done around July also.

That will be fun to build I think. multi layered 2.7mm ply and a glass top. Also have to buy Xo parts which cost about 140 dollars. That might happen sooner than April which was the planned time frame. Xo parts are for my four MTG-08's.

Really just too many projects going on and not enough money. Dont forget I also have the BC 21" in the garage. That is for the Othorn which I need to buy plywood for still. BUT that costs about 350 for good ply and 280 for lesser. Money just flying out the door and I dont have any to begin with. LOL
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post #318 of 653 Old 01-29-2015, 07:09 AM - Thread Starter
 
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You can make an othorn out of OSB and just duratex it. start making saw dust !
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post #319 of 653 Old 01-29-2015, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Update:

Got the third baffle glued on:





It did not quite fit perfectly like the other two. I will need a touch of sanding, but I'll make it work.

Also got my BIG FAT CAPS in.. for the tweeter thump protection.



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post #320 of 653 Old 01-29-2015, 11:51 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Advice Request:

Stuffing. For testing and measuring. What should I do?

I have a case of Denim Insulation: http://www.homedepot.com/p/UltraTouc...5?N=5yc1vZbvev

I also bought some new pillows, so wife doesn't kill me when I tear up the old ones.

I'm willing to get whatever is optimal. Anyone have good advice?

I was thinking about lining the box with the denim, use hot glue or construction adhesive fast grab to hold it - then throw in some light pillow stuffing. Bad idea? Or good?
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post #321 of 653 Old 01-29-2015, 12:03 PM
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I would guess that you just want to line it, unless you're trying to do something with the Qtc.
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post #322 of 653 Old 01-29-2015, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
Advice Request:

Stuffing. For testing and measuring. What should I do?

I have a case of Denim Insulation: http://www.homedepot.com/p/UltraTouc...5?N=5yc1vZbvev

I also bought some new pillows, so wife doesn't kill me when I tear up the old ones.

I'm willing to get whatever is optimal. Anyone have good advice?

I was thinking about lining the box with the denim, use hot glue or construction adhesive fast grab to hold it - then throw in some light pillow stuffing. Bad idea? Or good?
I bought a pallet of that denim insulation for my commercial subs and use 3m spray adhesive to adhere to the walls. Since I will be shipping subs, I also staple fabric on the interior to ensure the insulation doesn't shift and potentially insulate (and overheat) the included amp. For your situation, I think the spray adhesive should be enough.
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post #323 of 653 Old 01-29-2015, 12:23 PM - Thread Starter
 
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I bought a pallet of that denim insulation for my commercial subs and use 3m spray adhesive to adhere to the walls. Since I will be shipping subs, I also staple fabric on the interior to ensure the insulation doesn't shift and potentially insulate (and overheat) the included amp. For your situation, I think the spray adhesive should be enough.
Yeah I saw the pallet for sale. It seemed more than I needed.

Good advice on the Spray Adhesive. I don't have any but I can pick some up. I have plenty of wood glue, construction adhesive, Hot glue guns, etc...

Also, can you email your paypal again. I searched my email and didn't see it. I might have deleted it.
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post #324 of 653 Old 01-29-2015, 01:21 PM
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Update:

Got the third baffle glued on:





It did not quite fit perfectly like the other two. I will need a touch of sanding, but I'll make it work.

Also got my BIG FAT CAPS in.. for the tweeter thump protection.



Wow, those are big caps. I'm thinking that I'll need to get some protection caps too. What's your -3db point for your tweeter? I figure mine will be ~650hz for the BA750 therefor, I suppose, I should use the same value caps assuming a one octave safety factor. I wonder if that's being too conservative.

Last edited by rajacat; 01-29-2015 at 01:25 PM.
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post #325 of 653 Old 01-29-2015, 02:11 PM - Thread Starter
 
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With that low of a cross on that big ass tweeter you could even go bigger. You'll have some effect present at your crossover, so you'd either need to design using that, or perhaps get a different value. That cap worked pretty good with a minimal effect around my planned 1khz region cross. But lower it starts effecting things more. It's not necessarily a bad thing, by just something you'd need to account for.

Ever used @bwaslo Xsim program ? That will show you and it's a good program and easy to use. If you want I can post a screen shot.
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post #326 of 653 Old 01-29-2015, 03:25 PM
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Thanks for the link to bwaslo's progrman. I installed it.
I'm doing active too so I should be able to compensate for the effects of the big cap.... I think. I don't want the cap to affect the sound quality...for sure. You'd think that since 30uf cap corner freq is 650hz with 8ohm driver, that a 60uf cap that has a corner freq of ~325hz would be adequate.
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post #327 of 653 Old 01-29-2015, 04:27 PM
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Your CD is probably more like 6ohms at 650hz. I think 30 would be fine regardless. Just means you don't have to cross as hard.
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post #328 of 653 Old 01-29-2015, 04:44 PM
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Thanks! Yeah, I guess you'd need a chart showing how the ohm level changes as freq changes. I think I'll order some those Dayton caps too.
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post #329 of 653 Old 01-29-2015, 05:45 PM
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^this is critical to all crossover design, it seems. You have to have complete measurements. With active it's easier to tweak as you go, but you have to know where you are starting if you want to plot a course to the finish.
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post #330 of 653 Old 01-30-2015, 05:29 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
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Thanks for the link to bwaslo's progrman. I installed it.
I'm doing active too so I should be able to compensate for the effects of the big cap.... I think. I don't want the cap to affect the sound quality...for sure. You'd think that since 30uf cap corner freq is 650hz with 8ohm driver, that a 60uf cap that has a corner freq of ~325hz would be adequate.
It won't effect the sound quality assuming you get an audio grade cap. What it effects is how you cross. If it's effecting your crossover region you would need to compensate for that. So if it's pulling down your response you might not need to cross as hard, or use some EQ to compensate.

My goal was to go full active from the beginning so I didn't want my protection cap effecting things too much. But you could have it be part of the design too. I really only wanted it for tweeter protection from amp thumps. Which turns out my amps don't thump and have a delay in them

Better safe than sorry I guess.
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