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post #241 of 1151 Old 11-14-2014, 01:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post
I just downloaded the Akabak program a few months back, but in all honesty, I have yet to spend the time figuring out the basics with Hornresp, much less make the time to get into the weeds with Akabak.
This link got me up and running very fast. Within two hours I could draw out a schematic and write a script for fairly complex enclosures. This thread deserves some kind of award, I haven't found any resource better for a quick start guide.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...k-dummies.html

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So, based on the sims (I understand sims are not the end-all-be-all), I should technically be good to go with the design as it currently stands, correct? That is great!
You can if you like or you can modify it, remember, no matter what you do the room is going to dominate the response, but it is nice to start with a design that doesn't have any massive notches in response. I don't see anything needing fixing the way it is now.

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That said, I am willing (if there is a tangible/simulated benefit) to put my track saw to use and hollow out the two most inner panels where it is pretty much just a 2" border. Would be able to knock that out with minimal effort...
Not sure what benefit that would provide, and it would also make the brace much less effective. The velocity through the side chamber holes is already very low, this modification would lower it further but probably make the response a bit worse. (I already ran a quick sim with one large side chamber instead of three separate small ones just to see what would happen and the response was a bit worse.)

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Since you've already helped me out and put in all of the information to model in Akabak, would it be quick exercise to change that one parameter?

Man, this is really good stuff... Thanks again to everyone for their assistance.
Think about what change you would like to see (I don't recommend the change you suggested, that's going too far IMO) and let me know. If I can find a few minutes I'll run the sim again tomorrow with the changes. And just to be really sure include a picture. Akabak doesn't have a schematic drawing so if you can't read Akabak and I misunderstand what you want neither of us will know that I didn't accurately sim what you wanted.

Also, you might want to shoot me some proper plans to make sure the dimensions I used are all accurate. Or you might be able to verify those details in tthe script I posted along with the Hornresp drawing and the description of what I added in Hornresp.

To be honest, what I would recommend is leaving the braces alone, finishing it, putting it in place, putting the top on, listening and measuring. If you can't find any obvious problems I don't see any need to change anything. If there is a problem, rip the braces at that point. Do it right where it sits when no one is home. No problem.

If there is a problem I think it will probably be port exit velocity, not an internal issue.
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Last edited by diy speaker guy; 11-14-2014 at 01:20 AM.
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post #242 of 1151 Old 11-14-2014, 03:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diy speaker guy View Post
This link got me up and running very fast. Within two hours I could draw out a schematic and write a script for fairly complex enclosures. This thread deserves some kind of award, I haven't found any resource better for a quick start guide.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...k-dummies.html
Ah yes, I do recall visiting that site after reading lilmike mention it awhile back. I had a problem opening it up on my Windows 8 laptop. I still plan on figuring out how to get it up and running soon, but have to pick my battles at this point in time to try to keep the peace with the wifey... Once I start going down the rabbit hole to learn something, I find it consumes me and it always ends up with me sleeping on the couch.



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Originally Posted by diy speaker guy View Post
You can if you like or you can modify it, remember, no matter what you do the room is going to dominate the response, but it is nice to start with a design that doesn't have any massive notches in response. I don't see anything needing fixing the way it is now.

Not sure what benefit that would provide, and it would also make the brace much less effective. The velocity through the side chamber holes is already very low, this modification would lower it further but probably make the response a bit worse. (I already ran a quick sim with one large side chamber instead of three separate small ones just to see what would happen and the response was a bit worse.)
Ok, I will leave it as is for now and seal it up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by diy speaker guy View Post
Think about what change you would like to see (I don't recommend the change you suggested, that's going too far IMO) and let me know. If I can find a few minutes I'll run the sim again tomorrow with the changes. And just to be really sure include a picture. Akabak doesn't have a schematic drawing so if you can't read Akabak and I misunderstand what you want neither of us will know that I didn't accurately sim what you wanted.

Also, you might want to shoot me some proper plans to make sure the dimensions I used are all accurate. Or you might be able to verify those details in tthe script I posted along with the Hornresp drawing and the description of what I added in Hornresp.
Don't even worry about it man. You have already went above and beyond and I appreciate it more than you know. I owe you a beer for sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by diy speaker guy View Post
To be honest, what I would recommend is leaving the braces alone, finishing it, putting it in place, putting the top on, listening and measuring. If you can't find any obvious problems I don't see any need to change anything. If there is a problem, rip the braces at that point. Do it right where it sits when no one is home. No problem.
Copy. On it...

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Originally Posted by diy speaker guy View Post
If there is a problem I think it will probably be port exit velocity, not an internal issue.
Man, I hope not. I've read different information from different sources and my goal was try try to keep it under 26m/s. This is going to be a learning experience for me indeed.

Last edited by popalock; 11-17-2014 at 09:18 AM.
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post #243 of 1151 Old 11-14-2014, 08:35 AM - Thread Starter
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I hope to attach the top tonight.

Couple more perspective shots...just because.

Port channel:


I took the time to round off the 90 degree angles. I doubt it will make a difference with anything, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to "soften" an edge where I could.


Did the same thing on the edge of the panel leading into the actual port...
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post #244 of 1151 Old 11-14-2014, 11:56 AM
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post #245 of 1151 Old 11-14-2014, 12:05 PM
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post #246 of 1151 Old 11-14-2014, 12:09 PM
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^^^ Nice picture, ) looks like Austin changed his style after hangin' with the Sheiks. He will come back to states all blinged out with $750K in gold jewelry.
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post #247 of 1151 Old 11-14-2014, 01:28 PM
 
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I admit I have not been following 100% the most recent. What did you decide for the braces? open them up?
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post #248 of 1151 Old 11-14-2014, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post
I took the time to round off the 90 degree angles. I doubt it will make a difference with anything, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to "soften" an edge where I could.
Right, hat won't really make a difference; what will help a lot more is putting 45 deg corner pieces on the outside of the turns.

That will better guide the air around the turn vs. it just slamming straight into the wall.

Dunno if any of the mentioned programs able to handle details like this to determine whether it makes a significant difference.

Noah
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post #249 of 1151 Old 11-14-2014, 03:58 PM
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"Right, hat won't really make a difference; what will help a lot more is putting 45 deg corner pieces on the outside of the turns.

That will better guide the air around the turn vs. it just slamming straight into the wall."


I couldn't find anything to suggest that makes a difference when I researched it a while back.

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post #250 of 1151 Old 11-14-2014, 04:14 PM
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and fwiw after sleeping on it, I'd suggest (even though I hate to suggest it) cutting out the part of the brace above the circle thus turning the braces into U shaped but I don't have any data or even a good working theory for why I would suggest that. :-)

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post #251 of 1151 Old 11-14-2014, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWCgrad View Post
^^^ Nice picture, ) looks like Austin changed his style after hangin' with the Sheiks. He will come back to states all blinged out with $750K in gold jewelry.

I thought he went over there like that. Pop, just don't go too far with it and OG (over gold)...

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post #252 of 1151 Old 11-14-2014, 07:25 PM
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post #253 of 1151 Old 11-16-2014, 12:43 PM
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Probably couldn't plan this result much better if you were trying, the sim above is a pretty good response.
Quick, patent it!
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post #254 of 1151 Old 11-16-2014, 07:48 PM
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I have been away for a while and I come back to see this amazing build. Thank you for keeping your crazy ambitious builds going and sharing on AVS! Good luck on sorting out the bracing and I will continue to stay tuned to see the progress.

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post #255 of 1151 Old 11-16-2014, 09:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post
Dang, I still just can't believe how huge that thing is!

Who has a DIY build bigger than this?
Well, there is always @robertcharles POTENTIA MAXIMUS. Might not be quite as long/tall as mine, one of his cabinets will most likely end up weighing twice as much as mine when I am done and his finishing skills are just awesome.

I'm really struggling with how I want to finish these guys... On one hand, I want to make them nice. On the other, the chances of me being able to bring these back with me stateside are slim... They are going to blow our weight limit out of the water...lol.
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post #256 of 1151 Old 11-16-2014, 09:35 PM
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Keep it simple and do a simple satin and poly finish. No need to get crazy and ten have to scrap the whole cabinet down the road.

And didnt Robert have jewels made for his subwoofers?
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post #257 of 1151 Old 11-17-2014, 12:21 AM
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"I'm really struggling with how I want to finish these guys... "


;-)


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post #258 of 1151 Old 11-17-2014, 12:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post
Keep it simple and do a simple satin and poly finish. No need to get crazy and ten have to scrap the whole cabinet down the road.

And didnt Robert have jewels made for his subwoofers?
Yeah, the finishing touch on his incredible statement pieces. His jewels alone cost more than my entire sub build(s) and amp...lol.

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"I'm really struggling with how I want to finish these guys... "


;-)


Haha...if only I had an outdoor desert theater...this would be perfect!
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post #259 of 1151 Old 11-17-2014, 01:06 AM
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At that size and weight I'd do as has been said above. A few coats of poly or if you want to add some colour then a little stain first.
Coming from someone who has made something so large before they are extremely hard to move around without dinging them.
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post #260 of 1151 Old 11-17-2014, 03:35 PM
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"I'm really struggling with how I want to finish these guys... "


;-)


Is that the Desert Storm finish option? Where's the turret? Or is this the device they lower down to the Continental Shelf for full-ocean sonar?
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post #261 of 1151 Old 11-18-2014, 08:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks again everyone for helping me sort out the bracing issue. Have yet to put the top on and seal this guy up because I'm trying to prove to the wife that this build isn't consuming me like my other builds have in the past. Been coming home, popping in either Orange is the New Black or Modern Family then engaging in some deep deep conversation to keep the ol' relationship strong... <---Always seems more important as soon as the wife sees that I'm really into a project or something else is taking more of my time than her...lol.

Anyway, back on topic...Shout out to @R Swerdlow for his post on hex drive inserts for soft wood here.

I'll be mounting the 24's with these inserts:


And these screws:


Any objections or input on using these?

I figure I might as well make this box nice and pay attention to the finishing details if not only for the additional experience of it...
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post #262 of 1151 Old 11-18-2014, 09:03 PM
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Go for it. I used the same method for a couple sealed 18's (link in sig). I used different bolts but the same or very similar her driver inserts.

I've never felt more sure that a driver was secure, and you don't have the worries of stripping out the material.

Just follow the spec on the pilot hole. Add a dab of glue to the outside teeth of the insert if you are paranoid.

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Originally Posted by popalock View Post
I'll be mounting the 24's with these inserts:


And these screws:


Any objections or input on using these?
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post #263 of 1151 Old 11-19-2014, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

I'll be mounting the 24's with these inserts:


And these screws:


Any objections or input on using these?
They should work nicely.

I have used these on a couple of builds and they are work amazingly well, cheap, fool proof, no stripping, no misalignment issues, etc. etc.

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post #264 of 1151 Old 11-19-2014, 07:19 AM
 
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I just use threaded screws and dip them in glue before I screw em in... I'm simple like that. Never had one tear out. A drywall screw into ply or MDF has holding power of 200 pounds or so per screw, I doubt you need more than 1000 pounds of pressure holding that sub in place.
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post #265 of 1151 Old 11-19-2014, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post
Thanks again everyone for helping me sort out the bracing issue. Have yet to put the top on and seal this guy up because I'm trying to prove to the wife that this build isn't consuming me like my other builds have in the past. Been coming home, popping in either Orange is the New Black or Modern Family then engaging in some deep deep conversation to keep the ol' relationship strong... <---Always seems more important as soon as the wife sees that I'm really into a project or something else is taking more of my time than her...lol.

Anyway, back on topic...Shout out to @R Swerdlow for his post on hex drive inserts for soft wood here.

I'll be mounting the 24's with these inserts:


And these screws:


Any objections or input on using these?

I figure I might as well make this box nice and pay attention to the finishing details if not only for the additional experience of it...
I have basically the same screws http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DS8E5W and inserts http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WC8TUC in a size 10-32 being delivered tomorrow for my 15" build.

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post #266 of 1151 Old 11-20-2014, 12:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
I just use threaded screws and dip them in glue before I screw em in... I'm simple like that. Never had one tear out. A drywall screw into ply or MDF has holding power of 200 pounds or so per screw, I doubt you need more than 1000 pounds of pressure holding that sub in place.
I hear you and I agree that it isn't really necessary. Spax screws have served me well over the years. Just looking to do something a bit different to refine my finishing skillz. Might serve me well when it comes time to "attempt" to sell the box in a few years.

Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post
They should work nicely.

I have used these on a couple of builds and they are work amazingly well, cheap, fool proof, no stripping, no misalignment issues, etc. etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
I have basically the same screws http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DS8E5W and inserts http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WC8TUC in a size 10-32 being delivered tomorrow for my 15" build.
Mountstanding. Thanks for the feedback.

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post #267 of 1151 Old 11-20-2014, 09:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Progress.



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post #268 of 1151 Old 11-20-2014, 09:28 AM
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Jeeze, those photos really put the size into perspective.
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post #269 of 1151 Old 11-20-2014, 09:30 AM
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Dude, no shave forever? I am only 3 weeks in on my bada%$ beard. Or is that 3 weeks? I am embarrassed.....

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post #270 of 1151 Old 11-20-2014, 09:35 AM
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haha ... at least you are having fun!
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