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post #1141 of 1238 Old 09-15-2016, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by augerpro View Post
Looking to speed up how fast I can chop up boards, I broke down and bought a Festool track saw. Then the other day I say this rule from Incra and it seemed promising. Meant to be used with a .5mm mechanical pencil you can quickly mark the boards exactly, and/or slide the rule and draw the line at the same time. I'm thinking I'll be about twice as fast using the Incra rule and track saw.

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I have the 18" version of the ruler. Its awesome. Worth every penny!
I also have the 18" version and it is excellent! I use it for all sorts of stuff. Before I bought my table saw, I used my Makita track saw with the Incra ruler. It's a pretty good setup for building boxes quickly.
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post #1142 of 1238 Old 09-29-2016, 02:12 PM
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I need some advice on what tool to use to cut the recess in the baffle for a ds4 18.
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post #1143 of 1238 Old 09-29-2016, 03:00 PM
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post #1144 of 1238 Old 09-29-2016, 03:54 PM
 
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post #1145 of 1238 Old 09-29-2016, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
I also have the 18" version and it is excellent! I use it for all sorts of stuff. Before I bought my table saw, I used my Makita track saw with the Incra ruler. It's a pretty good setup for building boxes quickly.
I'm trying to resist ordering the 12" Pro version (doesn't come in an 18" version). The attraction is that it also has decimal inches (1/100ths), I don't think well in 1/2^Nths of an inch!
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post #1146 of 1238 Old 09-30-2016, 10:48 AM
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I actually prefer this one instead of the Incra. If I had the Incra it would be bent on the first day. The one I have is black and says Pinnacle instead of Woodpeckers. The company changed names at some point.

Obviously it doesn't solve for the tenths problem ^

https://www.amazon.com/Woodpeckers-P...Q53MZESZ8CPEA6
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post #1147 of 1238 Old 09-30-2016, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDean View Post
I actually prefer this one instead of the Incra. If I had the Incra it would be bent on the first day. The one I have is black and says Pinnacle instead of Woodpeckers. The company changed names at some point.

Obviously it doesn't solve for the tenths problem ^

https://www.amazon.com/Woodpeckers-P...Q53MZESZ8CPEA6
That looks really nice! The Incra is semi-fragile for sure. I also wish that the "T" section on it was wider like the one that you linked to, but it works for now. Big difference in price between this one and the Incra too.

My next little purchase will be a better quality tape measure for shop work. I've been using a Stanley FatMax around the house and in the garage for the last couple of years but I would like something a bit more accurate.
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post #1148 of 1238 Old 09-30-2016, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
My next little purchase will be a better quality tape measure for shop work. I've been using a Stanley FatMax around the house and in the garage for the last couple of years but I would like something a bit more accurate.
What tape measure are you looking at?

I don't tend to think of tape measures as being precision instruments. In general, if I'm using one, I'm going to be within 1/16" -- any better precision needed and I better be using either my laser distance finder or some kind of story stick. Tape measures are a repeatable tool to me, which does require using the same one for all measurements at any given time.
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post #1149 of 1238 Old 09-30-2016, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dm_rep View Post
I need some advice on what tool to use to cut the recess in the baffle for a ds4 18.
If the speaker cutout is already there, use a rabbeting bit, which is essentially a straight bit with a bearing that has a smaller dia. than the bit.

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post #1150 of 1238 Old 09-30-2016, 01:17 PM
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Its already cut. I think the rabbet bit would have to cut 7/8 deep.
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Originally Posted by dm_rep View Post
Its already cut. I think the rabbet bit would have to cut 7/8 deep.
An option would be to cut a circle out of some scrap mdf and then throw away the circle. You are left with a template you clamp onto your baffle and then using a top bearing straight bit cut your recess.

Of course if the circle you already cut is the outer diameter of the woofer, you either have to add material to your existing baffle or drink a beer and then start over with a brand new baffle. I know which option I would pick.
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Re: tape measures.

My experience is the standard 25 foot Dewalt tape is pretty good for wood working. The fat max is good for framing and for people with bad eye sight (like older dudes).

My dad prefers the fat max (69 years old, needs cheater glasses) but I always reach for the Dewalt.

The Dewalt has the measurements actually listed and labeled on one side of the tape- which is nice and helps a lot. It's finer print and more accurate. I use with with a retractable graphing pencil when I want accuracy. The fat max goes good with a fat carpenters pencil you sharpen with a utility knife.

Home Depot does two pack for 14.97 of them for events like Black Friday and Father's Day. (25ft). Grab two when you see it. If you'd like more accuracy than a Fatmax you'd like it I think.
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post #1153 of 1238 Old 09-30-2016, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
Re: tape measures.

My experience is the standard 25 foot Dewalt tape is pretty good for wood working. The fat max is good for framing and for people with bad eye sight (like older dudes).

My dad prefers the fat max (69 years old, needs cheater glasses) but I always reach for the Dewalt.

The Dewalt has the measurements actually listed and labeled on one side of the tape- which is nice and helps a lot. It's finer print and more accurate. I use with with a retractable graphing pencil when I want accuracy. The fat max goes good with a fat carpenters pencil you sharpen with a utility knife.

Home Depot does two pack for 14.97 of them for events like Black Friday and Father's Day. (25ft). Grab two when you see it. If you'd like more accuracy than a Fatmax you'd like it I think.
Thanks, Mike! I'll check out the Dewalt.
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post #1154 of 1238 Old 10-03-2016, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dm_rep View Post
I need some advice on what tool to use to cut the recess in the baffle for a ds4 18.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dm_rep View Post
Its already cut. I think the rabbet bit would have to cut 7/8 deep.
Do it in 2 or 3 passes

Noah
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post #1155 of 1238 Old 10-04-2016, 12:36 PM
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DIY Tool Talk

When I started cutting boards for my latest build, I ran into the issue of the sheets of MDF not being square right from the store (lowes). Frustrated and determined, I struggled along with my track saw and my table saw but soon realized I was just wasting material and time trying to get pieces of 32" x 15" squared up. I have the Incra 3000 miter gauge, which is awesome, but it does not allow for squaring up any larger width boards than about 8-10 inches. I have been meaning to build a nice table saw sled for a long time, and this was finally the situation that pushed me into taking the time (and money) to do it right.

I started off with a nice sheet of Baltic Birch. I believe the final dimensions are 30" wide and 24" deep. It will accommodate up to a 22" width board. I glued up two layers of BB for the user-side fence on the sled and two glued up pieces of Maple for the front side fence. I purchased Incra's fancy T-slot sliders which are 25.5" long and also a 48" piece of Incra's T-track so that I could add hold downs to the sled. I also threw in a set of Incra's Built-it Hold Down Clamps for use in that t-track.

Over a couple of days of wrapping my brain around the squaring up process, I was successful using the 5 cut method of table saw sled adjusting and ended up getting it within 0.00075" over about a 70" total length. If you don't know what I'm talking about, look up the Wood Whisperer's table saw sled build video for more explanation. Basically, after the adjustments were complete, the sled is ridiculously accurate.

After a week of downtime from the current speaker build, I will finally be able to get back at it tonight and avoid all of the previous frustrations about panels that are not square!

In process:




Done!


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post #1156 of 1238 Old 10-04-2016, 01:25 PM
 
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I saw today festool has a new random orbital sander for $99 for pre order special with a $50 gift card towards next purchase. That seems cheap for festool.
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post #1157 of 1238 Old 10-04-2016, 01:47 PM
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Very nice work on the slide.
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Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
... ended up getting it within 0.00075" over about a 70" total length
Besides basic accuracy of construction, a big bugaboo is slop in the slots; maybe you have really straight and precise slots so it wasn't an issue.

Also, not sure why you used two slot bars.

That just makes the whole process harder, and it seems to me that since any deflection in the plane of the sled will be microscopic, it doesn't really add anything in the way of stiffness or stability.

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post #1158 of 1238 Old 10-04-2016, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by noah katz View Post
Very nice work on the slide.

Besides basic accuracy of construction, a big bugaboo is slop in the slots; maybe you have really straight and precise slots so it wasn't an issue.

Also, not sure why you used two slot bars.

That just makes the whole process harder, and it seems to me that since any deflection in the plane of the sled will be microscopic, it doesn't really add anything in the way of stiffness or stability.
I'm not clear on a couple of things you said. I guess first off, the Incra slides have built in adjustments to remove slop. The sled does not shift back and forth or side by side. It's virtually "slopless".
Are you asking about why I used two t-track slots on the top? The reason is so I can attach various accessories or hold down clamps on either side of the blade. It also makes it possible to attach other systems like a 45 degree jig for trim and frame work. It's very similar to another guys design I saw on YouTube. He used Kreg's hardware instead of Incra.
This guy:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtwK9X8o1Gw

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post #1159 of 1238 Old 10-04-2016, 10:16 PM
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OK, I broke down and got the 12" Pro T-Rule, decent price on it at Amazon. (Decent for a precision laser-milled tool, insane for a ruler in general, though I guess). Arrived yesterday, looks very nice. I think I'll manage to not bend it up. Here's what the increments look like (it has metric and decimal inches to 0.01" steps, as well as the useless base-ten-binary-increment ones). Pix is from online of a 6" version --

Got so inspired by that I tonight tracked down a decimal inches scale to glue onto my table saw to replace the 1/32" stepped on that is on there now. There's a seller on the 'bay selling 36 inch steel 'Blem Cosmetic Second PEC 36" Rigid 5R (1/10,1/100,1/32,1/64) machinist ruler's at a not-too-terrible price. I might save that much in messed up saw cuts. Here's what it looks like:
in case there are other fractional-challenged tool addicts out there.
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post #1160 of 1238 Old 10-05-2016, 11:05 AM
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Are you asking about why I used two t-track slots on the top?
No, I was asking why have two slide bars in the table saw slots.

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post #1161 of 1238 Old 10-05-2016, 11:20 AM
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No, I was asking why have two slide bars in the table saw slots.
Oh! The use of both slots makes for a very stable sled. Since the sled is 28" x 24", it would be very easy to move it laterally with only one slider. This way, both sliders lock into the saw top and everything stays very lined up. I waxed the bottom of the sled with some furniture wax and it slides with very minimal effort now.
Last night I really put it to use for the first time and it was a game changer for me. The sled made it so easy to cut the 4 panels I needed to 11" x 13" all exactly the same and perfectly square. It's easy to set up stop blocks on the fence for repeatability.
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Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
Oh! The use of both slots makes for a very stable sled. Since the sled is 28" x 24", it would be very easy to move it laterally with only one slider. This way, both sliders lock into the saw top and everything stays very lined up. I waxed the bottom of the sled with some furniture wax and it slides with very minimal effort now.
Last night I really put it to use for the first time and it was a game changer for me. The sled made it so easy to cut the 4 panels I needed to 11" x 13" all exactly the same and perfectly square. It's easy to set up stop blocks on the fence for repeatability.
Grrrrippers

Have you run one through the saw yet? I've been pretty impressed with them except for the o-rings that hold the thumb screws wear out quickly.
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post #1163 of 1238 Old 10-05-2016, 01:20 PM
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Grrrrippers

Have you run one through the saw yet? I've been pretty impressed with them except for the o-rings that hold the thumb screws wear out quickly.
Those things are awesome! I bought them a couple of months ago, but hadn't put them together until a couple weeks ago. I'm very impressed so far. I also picked up the Microdial tapering jig and some of the Grrripper accessories, gravity heels, 1/8" legs and the deflector/connector. The stuff isn't cheap, but I think it brings a level of safety that definitely makes it worth it.

For the rubber o-rings, I wonder if something like a metal captive washer would work for the long haul? Like this:
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post #1164 of 1238 Old 10-06-2016, 01:06 PM
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Since the sled is 28" x 24", it would be very easy to move it laterally with only one slider.
I doubt it; to get any kind of deflection, you'd have to bend the bar, which would then have to bend the saw table, and impose in-plane shear deflection on the sled base.

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post #1165 of 1238 Old 10-06-2016, 01:09 PM
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I doubt it; to get any kind of deflection, you'd have to bend the bar, which would then have to bend the saw table, and impose in-plane shear deflection on the sled base.
You should build one with one bar and give it a try. Every sled design I've seen uses both t-slots on the saw. Such a weird thing to argue about. It's ok with me if you don't like my sled.

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post #1166 of 1238 Old 10-06-2016, 01:22 PM
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The half dozen cross cut sleds I've built have only ever used one. They have all worked fine. I'm sure two would be fine as well and really wouldn't take any more time. But really I'm not sure I see the purpose either. Nice looking sled though.

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Thoughts ???


Is this a gimmick ? Or a game changer ?
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post #1168 of 1238 Old 10-07-2016, 11:43 AM
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Such a weird thing to argue about. It's ok with me if you don't like my sled.
Your sled is a beauty; you're just experiencing a mechanical engineer geeking out on you

Noah
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post #1169 of 1238 Old 10-07-2016, 11:56 AM
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Your sled is a beauty; you're just experiencing a mechanical engineer geeking out on you
I gotcha. I work in material quality engineering, so I'm quite used to being surround by engineers. It's funny that until you mentioned using a single slide, I had only ever seen two slide sled setups in all the videos I've watched about building them, literally dozens of different builds. Looking again online today, I see many folks have built using single slides.
Well, I completed what I set out to build, and it works beautifully, so I have no regrets.
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post #1170 of 1238 Old 10-08-2016, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwaslo View Post
Got so inspired by that I tonight tracked down a decimal inches scale to glue onto my table saw to replace the 1/32" stepped on that is on there now. There's a seller on the 'bay selling 36 inch steel 'Blem Cosmetic Second PEC 36" Rigid 5R (1/10,1/100,1/32,1/64) machinist ruler's at a not-too-terrible price. I might save that much in messed up saw cuts. Here's what it looks like:

in case there are other fractional-challenged tool addicts out there.
That's a coincidence. I finally upgraded my combination square with a blemished PEC 12" four piece combination square from Harry J. Epstein. Hard to say no to the blemished set when it only costs $57.50 versus $184.20 for the unblemished set.
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