DIY Tool Talk - Page 41 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 324Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1201 of 1238 Old 02-23-2017, 01:25 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
dtsdig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,997
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1125 Post(s)
Liked: 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassment View Post
I've been using a crappy $10 drywall t-square for drawing lines and it's been pretty inaccurate causing slightly out of square cuts. I've been looking at the woodpecker 24" t-square or the 32" t square which are about $150. Is it worth it to get something like this? I'm using a decent worm-drive circ saw and a straight edge clamp for my cuts. The straight edge clamping mechanism is not accurate but if I line the edge up with a straight line it cuts great.

What is my best course of upgrades here? I know a track saw would be good...
I bought 2 drywall T-squares of different brands years apart and they are both completely not square in the exact same way. They are both 1/4" out over the 4 foot length. I only ever use them as straight edges anymore. I recently bought a Starrett rafter square and it is pretty accurate.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/s...-rafter-square

I personally just can't justify the price of the woodpecker setups. For what you are getting, they are extremely overpriced in my opinion. I highly recommend getting a track saw if you can manage it at some point. My Makita has been fantastic.
dtsdig is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #1202 of 1238 Old 02-23-2017, 01:29 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Bassment's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ancaster, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,835
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 960 Post(s)
Liked: 389
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
I bought 2 drywall T-squares of different brands years apart and they are both completely not square in the exact same way. They are both 1/4" out over the 4 foot length. I only ever use them as straight edges anymore. I recently bought a Starrett rafter square and it is pretty accurate.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/s...-rafter-square

I personally just can't justify the price of the woodpecker setups. For what you are getting, they are extremely overpriced in my opinion. I highly recommend getting a track saw if you can manage it at some point. My Makita has been fantastic.
The one thing with a track saw is you still need to draw a line, right? How do you align an L square?
Bassment is offline  
post #1203 of 1238 Old 02-23-2017, 01:36 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
tuxedocivic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Ladysmith, BC
Posts: 7,988
Mentioned: 228 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2301 Post(s)
Liked: 2230
I just use a really old L square and a homemade track for my circ saw. I also tape the length in two or three places to be sure its square. To be accurate, you check a few ways anyways. on a long cut the innaccuracy adds up fast. So checking twice is critical.

My youtube channel: Impulse Audio
tuxedocivic is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #1204 of 1238 Old 02-23-2017, 01:37 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
tuxedocivic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Ladysmith, BC
Posts: 7,988
Mentioned: 228 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2301 Post(s)
Liked: 2230
Could build your own t sqaure.

My youtube channel: Impulse Audio
tuxedocivic is offline  
post #1205 of 1238 Old 02-23-2017, 02:13 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
dtsdig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,997
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1125 Post(s)
Liked: 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassment View Post
The one thing with a track saw is you still need to draw a line, right? How do you align an L square?
The L square is used for smaller stuff. For cuts with the track saw, I just measure and put a mark on both ends of the cut. You just lay the track edge down on the two marks and go. No need to draw a long line.
dtsdig is offline  
post #1206 of 1238 Old 02-24-2017, 06:10 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Bassment's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ancaster, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,835
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 960 Post(s)
Liked: 389
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Could build your own t sqaure.
Doubt I could make it accurate enough haha

Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
The L square is used for smaller stuff. For cuts with the track saw, I just measure and put a mark on both ends of the cut. You just lay the track edge down on the two marks and go. No need to draw a long line.
You measure with what tool for marking for the track saw? How do you mark it?

I've been drawing a line so I can line it up the whole way and it minimizes the error. When doing two marks, it's really easy to be 1/32" off isn't it? Unless you have a specific way of doing the marks so you can line it up really accurately? That's what would be really nice about a good t square like the woodpecker, it has exact markings so you have perfect accuracy with the markings so as long as you line it up right then you're good to go. Even something like angling the pencil differently on the two marks can make a large enough difference I find.
Bassment is offline  
post #1207 of 1238 Old 02-24-2017, 06:16 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
JohnDean's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Franklin, TN
Posts: 1,421
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 546 Post(s)
Liked: 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
I bought 2 drywall T-squares of different brands years apart and they are both completely not square in the exact same way. They are both 1/4" out over the 4 foot length. I only ever use them as straight edges anymore. I recently bought a Starrett rafter square and it is pretty accurate.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/s...-rafter-square

I personally just can't justify the price of the woodpecker setups. For what you are getting, they are extremely overpriced in my opinion. I highly recommend getting a track saw if you can manage it at some point. My Makita has been fantastic.

That's the cheapest thing I've ever seen with the word "Starrett" on it. I have a 4' drywall square that's as accurate as I am. It's the blue one that they sell/sold at Lowes.
JohnDean is offline  
post #1208 of 1238 Old 02-24-2017, 06:20 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
dtsdig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,997
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1125 Post(s)
Liked: 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnDean View Post
That's the cheapest thing I've ever seen with the word "Starrett" on it. I have a 4' drywall square that's as accurate as I am. It's the blue one that they sell/sold at Lowes.
I was also surprised, especially being priced that way at Woodcraft! I figured it would be nice to have around even if I don't use it regularly.
I'm not seeing a blue T-square on Lowes site. Is it an Irwin?
dtsdig is offline  
post #1209 of 1238 Old 02-24-2017, 06:29 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
dtsdig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,997
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1125 Post(s)
Liked: 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassment View Post
Doubt I could make it accurate enough haha



You measure with what tool for marking for the track saw? How do you mark it?

I've been drawing a line so I can line it up the whole way and it minimizes the error. When doing two marks, it's really easy to be 1/32" off isn't it? Unless you have a specific way of doing the marks so you can line it up really accurately? That's what would be really nice about a good t square like the woodpecker, it has exact markings so you have perfect accuracy with the markings so as long as you line it up right then you're good to go. Even something like angling the pencil differently on the two marks can make a large enough difference I find.
If I want to go crazy with marking lines, I use the Incra T-rule with a .5mm mechanical pencil. For most of the track saw cuts I make, I simply use a tape measure and work on consistency with how I make the marks. Then when I lay down the track, I line up the edge by splitting the line on the marks I made. It's very accurate for me. I suppose it just took some practice, but I've built whole projects just using the track saw and they've been every bit as "perfect" as I've made using the table saw. The table saw is obviously faster with repeat cuts.
dtsdig is offline  
post #1210 of 1238 Old 02-24-2017, 07:50 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
JohnDean's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Franklin, TN
Posts: 1,421
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 546 Post(s)
Liked: 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
I was also surprised, especially being priced that way at Woodcraft! I figured it would be nice to have around even if I don't use it regularly.
I'm not seeing a blue T-square on Lowes site. Is it an Irwin?
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Mayes-48-in...Square/3117757

That's a weird default pic. It's just a regular T-square but the pic has them doubled up.
JohnDean is offline  
post #1211 of 1238 Old 02-24-2017, 07:59 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Bassment's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ancaster, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,835
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 960 Post(s)
Liked: 389
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
If I want to go crazy with marking lines, I use the Incra T-rule with a .5mm mechanical pencil. For most of the track saw cuts I make, I simply use a tape measure and work on consistency with how I make the marks. Then when I lay down the track, I line up the edge by splitting the line on the marks I made. It's very accurate for me. I suppose it just took some practice, but I've built whole projects just using the track saw and they've been every bit as "perfect" as I've made using the table saw. The table saw is obviously faster with repeat cuts.
The woodpecker is calling me, haha. I don't have a T-rule or anything like that, so I would get double use out of a t-square right? Plus lifetime warranty and guaranteed accuracy
Bassment is offline  
post #1212 of 1238 Old 02-25-2017, 08:05 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Boxozaxu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,070
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 512 Post(s)
Liked: 352
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Sorry, not related to the product you're looking at, but why use dovetails? Could always use faux dovetails (which is what Ill be doing on my bathroom vanity).
I watched a video by John Heisz
a few months ago do a sort of fake dovetail for his drawers. You probably mean a dovetail spline? Those are nice and for a few drawers I might go that way but I'm thinking for a kitchen with a dozen or more drawers, once you get the dovetail jig setup you can plow through them really quick. And more importantly, for us yanks, that's the way Norm Abram builds them.
cardoski likes this.
Boxozaxu is offline  
post #1213 of 1238 Old 02-25-2017, 08:25 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Boxozaxu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,070
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 512 Post(s)
Liked: 352
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
One of my cousins who has built a crap ton of furniture and cabinetry swears by his Incra system for creating dovetails. When I told him I bought the Porter Cable jig (still haven't used it), he said I would be giving that up in favor of the Incra system at some point. His experience was that the Incra was way faster to get set up and to use vs. the PC jig. I love the other Incra stuff that I have; it's very clever stuff and the designs are top notch.
I passed on the Incra system. I did some reading and people seemed to think it was too difficult for long lengths of dovetails such as with blanket chests, which I might make some day. Maybe with years of experience like your cousin has it would be a good solution. I can't wait that long. =)

FYI I found someone selling a new Incra I-Box box joint jig. I might buy that. Damn, I really need to stay off of CL.
Boxozaxu is offline  
post #1214 of 1238 Old 02-25-2017, 12:25 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Bassment's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ancaster, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,835
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 960 Post(s)
Liked: 389
Bassment is offline  
post #1215 of 1238 Old 02-25-2017, 04:41 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Boxozaxu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,070
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 512 Post(s)
Liked: 352
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassment View Post
Is there anything a ruler can do better than a t-square?
Measure from the inside of a corner.
Boxozaxu is offline  
post #1216 of 1238 Old 02-26-2017, 07:13 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 30
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 2
One of my Magnum-12s got walked on by a cat and deformed its dust cap, (clever cat was in a carrier while I was driving down the freeway, wanted out pretty bad). What tool would have been good to use?

I chose to use the hose, w/ length attachment, on a household style vac and while it didnt cover the whole deformed area the suction was enough to have it snap (heard it) back into its previous shape with no visible creases in the dust cap.
relaxation is offline  
post #1217 of 1238 Old 03-10-2017, 07:31 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Bassment's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ancaster, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,835
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 960 Post(s)
Liked: 389
Is it worth buying like a $200 Ridigid shop vac and a $30 HEPA filter for MDF dust extraction? Or do you have to go all out with a $600+ "dust extractor"?
Bassment is offline  
post #1218 of 1238 Old 03-10-2017, 08:50 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
dtsdig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,997
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1125 Post(s)
Liked: 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassment View Post
Is it worth buying like a $200 Ridigid shop vac and a $30 HEPA filter for MDF dust extraction? Or do you have to go all out with a $600+ "dust extractor"?
For me, it depends on what I'm doing and what tool I'm using. When I'm using sanders, orbital or sheet hand-held deals, I have them hooked to my shop vac (that has a bag in it) and I wear a good mask.
For sucking the massive chips/dust out of my jointer, bandsaw, planer or tablesaw, the dust collector works way better. I do love my Ridgid shop vac and use the crap out of it. Most of the time though, even when using tools hooked up to the dust collector, I'm still wearing a mask and running the Jet air filtration system above my head.
dtsdig is offline  
post #1219 of 1238 Old 03-10-2017, 09:40 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
rhodesj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,159
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1010 Post(s)
Liked: 600
You really have to go all out with a $1500+ dust collectors if you want to get all the fine particulate stuff that will mess up your lungs over years and years. You need a lot of airflow to actually get it into the collector, and the HEPA to keep it there. Cheap dust collectors don't move enough air to capture everything that a power tool spinning at 3 to 30 thousand RPM can fling. Shop vacs move even less air than dust collectors; a HEPA shop vac will only filter the air that goes in it, and it just won't move enough air to keep the area healthy.

Either a shopvac or cheap dust collector can limit the mess you make, and a good respirator can keep your lungs clean. But if you make dust indoors, anything fine stays there, even after you take off the respirator.

I've been wrestling with this very issue, since my current primary workshop space is my basement, and I'd like to add a good table saw. I've basically decided that I'm better off setting up wood shop in the carport, and letting the wind carry the fine dust away rather than trapping it in the house, and not spending 2 grand on a Clearvue cyclone collector.
rhodesj is offline  
post #1220 of 1238 Old 03-10-2017, 02:18 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
dtsdig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,997
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1125 Post(s)
Liked: 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhodesj View Post
You really have to go all out with a $1500+ dust collectors if you want to get all the fine particulate stuff that will mess up your lungs over years and years. You need a lot of airflow to actually get it into the collector, and the HEPA to keep it there. Cheap dust collectors don't move enough air to capture everything that a power tool spinning at 3 to 30 thousand RPM can fling. Shop vacs move even less air than dust collectors; a HEPA shop vac will only filter the air that goes in it, and it just won't move enough air to keep the area healthy.

Either a shopvac or cheap dust collector can limit the mess you make, and a good respirator can keep your lungs clean. But if you make dust indoors, anything fine stays there, even after you take off the respirator.

I've been wrestling with this very issue, since my current primary workshop space is my basement, and I'd like to add a good table saw. I've basically decided that I'm better off setting up wood shop in the carport, and letting the wind carry the fine dust away rather than trapping it in the house, and not spending 2 grand on a Clearvue cyclone collector.
This is all spot on. If I'm doing a through cut on a piece of ply, my dust collector pulls in everything through the table saw nicely, but MDF and any edge cuts make a mess in the air no matter what.
I like the North 7700 series mask and the 3M 6503QL is my most recent one. The 3M one is nice because the particulate/vapor filters are cheap and easy to order. The 3M also routes the wet exhaust air downward out of a "shoot" mostly preventing drips on the table.
rhodesj likes this.
dtsdig is offline  
post #1221 of 1238 Old 03-11-2017, 07:54 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Bassment's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ancaster, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,835
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 960 Post(s)
Liked: 389
Thanks for the replies. I should note I'm doing this in front of an open garage. My main concern is not getting MDF dust on my car that will be in the driveway. I don't really cut that much stuff. Basically just MDF rips for speakers and routing speaker cut outs. I sand a fair amount with a random orbital. I don't even have a table saw. I will be painting in my garage, creating a "clean room" by hanging plastic, so I want to be able to clean up the dust at least there too. I have a good respirator but I only use that for painting. I use the N95 normal ones for cutting usually. I just moved so previously I've done everything in my back yard so the dust just blew away in a cloud.

I'm in Canada so a really good dust collection would run me like 3 grand. I'm really just looking between a $100 shop vac, a $300 shop vac and a $600 dust extractor
Bassment is offline  
post #1222 of 1238 Old 03-11-2017, 08:44 AM
Advanced Member
 
ScottS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: On the East Coast
Posts: 542
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassment View Post
I'm in Canada so a really good dust collection would run me like 3 grand. I'm really just looking between a $100 shop vac, a $300 shop vac and a $600 dust extractor

I'm curious... Has anyone tried one of these "water filters" that were designed for trapping drywall dust: https://www.amazon.com/MT800-Sand-Kl...ct_top?ie=UTF8


There are a lot of DIY versions of these on the web using a 5 gallon pail.
ScottS is offline  
post #1223 of 1238 Old 03-11-2017, 10:55 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
tuxedocivic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Ladysmith, BC
Posts: 7,988
Mentioned: 228 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2301 Post(s)
Liked: 2230
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassment View Post
Thanks for the replies. I should note I'm doing this in front of an open garage. My main concern is not getting MDF dust on my car that will be in the driveway. I don't really cut that much stuff. Basically just MDF rips for speakers and routing speaker cut outs. I sand a fair amount with a random orbital. I don't even have a table saw. I will be painting in my garage, creating a "clean room" by hanging plastic, so I want to be able to clean up the dust at least there too. I have a good respirator but I only use that for painting. I use the N95 normal ones for cutting usually. I just moved so previously I've done everything in my back yard so the dust just blew away in a cloud.

I'm in Canada so a really good dust collection would run me like 3 grand. I'm really just looking between a $100 shop vac, a $300 shop vac and a $600 dust extractor
Dust collectors are best for machines. Not routers, sanders, etc. If you dont even have a table saw I wouldnt bother. Havibg said that, i have a little King Canada dust collector that is portable with a bag on the end of it, and it does impressively well for thibgs like my cnc, bandsaw, etc. Even does ok on the table saw. I wouldnt use it on a jointer or planer though. That ran me about $200. Im saving up for a King Industrial cyclone which run about $1200 and should do very well.

All that is rather meaningless though as you should probably go with a really good shop vac. I wouldnt bother with a high end filter extractor type as you will be in an open garage. I leave my shop doors open all year and only use dust collection so it doesnt get out of hand. Im not to worried about the fine dust myself as I use a respirator for router and sanding work and that type of stuff that makes lots of fine dust.

My youtube channel: Impulse Audio
tuxedocivic is offline  
post #1224 of 1238 Old 03-11-2017, 02:40 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
JohnDean's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Franklin, TN
Posts: 1,421
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 546 Post(s)
Liked: 255
As far as shopvacs, I finally broke down and bought a Fein Turbo II. I love this thing, and should have splurged a long time ago...and thrown away the obnoxiously loud shopvac brand, that has half the suction.
JohnDean is offline  
post #1225 of 1238 Old 03-11-2017, 02:54 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Bassment's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ancaster, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,835
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 960 Post(s)
Liked: 389
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnDean View Post
As far as shopvacs, I finally broke down and bought a Fein Turbo II. I love this thing, and should have splurged a long time ago...and thrown away the obnoxiously loud shopvac brand, that has half the suction.
Did you have one of the higher end models of Shopvac brand ones or a cheaper one? I'm looking at this one which seems as good as the Fein and 1/3 the price https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.6...000527586.html
Bassment is offline  
post #1226 of 1238 Old 03-11-2017, 03:50 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
JohnDean's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Franklin, TN
Posts: 1,421
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 546 Post(s)
Liked: 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassment View Post
Did you have one of the higher end models of Shopvac brand ones or a cheaper one? I'm looking at this one which seems as good as the Fein and 1/3 the price https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.6...000527586.html
I've had several. 2.5" and 1.25" hoses. None of them had the suction. pliable hose and length, cord length, and my favorite part low volume. It really is worth it and I'm a penny pincher, which is why I kept buying the ones that were "1/3 the price"
JohnDean is offline  
post #1227 of 1238 Old 04-15-2017, 09:38 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
dtsdig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,997
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1125 Post(s)
Liked: 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnDean View Post
I've had several. 2.5" and 1.25" hoses. None of them had the suction. pliable hose and length, cord length, and my favorite part low volume. It really is worth it and I'm a penny pincher, which is why I kept buying the ones that were "1/3 the price"
Hey @JohnDean I started thinking about picking up one of the Fein Turbo units this week and wanted to pick your brain a bit. The Ridgid shop vac I have is the one in the link above which Ridgid specs at 203 CFM. The Fein Turbo II models all spec out around 150 cfm. I know there is more to the big picture other than cfm, but it seems that the Ridgid would actually perform better based on suction alone. Can you help straighten me out here?
I am specifically looking at the new Turbo X AC model with the automatic filter cleaner feature. It's rated at 153 cfm. Thanks!
dtsdig is offline  
post #1228 of 1238 Old 04-15-2017, 12:25 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
noah katz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Mountain View, CA USA
Posts: 22,894
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2010 Post(s)
Liked: 732
The max CFM rating will apply if it will be run with minimum restriction, like dust collection, but with more restriction the suction (in. of water) will matter.

Noah
noah katz is online now  
post #1229 of 1238 Old 04-16-2017, 02:02 AM
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 973
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 566 Post(s)
Liked: 64
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
Hey @JohnDean I started thinking about picking up one of the Fein Turbo units this week and wanted to pick your brain a bit. The Ridgid shop vac I have is the one in the link above which Ridgid specs at 203 CFM. The Fein Turbo II models all spec out around 150 cfm. I know there is more to the big picture other than cfm, but it seems that the Ridgid would actually perform better based on suction alone. Can you help straighten me out here?
I am specifically looking at the new Turbo X AC model with the automatic filter cleaner feature. It's rated at 153 cfm. Thanks!
The Harbor Freight 2HP model moves over 1,500cfm of air and is currently $199 at my local store. You can get it for $160 with a 20% off coupon. I have several and they are excellent. I have friends that have had theirs for 10 years or more with never a problem. I run mine hard, daily, and love them.
Tip24/96 is offline  
post #1230 of 1238 Old 04-16-2017, 09:02 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
dtsdig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,997
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1125 Post(s)
Liked: 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tip24/96 View Post
The Harbor Freight 2HP model moves over 1,500cfm of air and is currently $199 at my local store. You can get it for $160 with a 20% off coupon. I have several and they are excellent. I have friends that have had theirs for 10 years or more with never a problem. I run mine hard, daily, and love them.
I already have a large Grizzly dust collector, I'm talking about vacs specifically.
dtsdig is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off