Ultimate Behringer iNuke 1000/3000 Fan Mod - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 30 Old 02-01-2015, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Ultimate Behringer iNuke 1000/3000 Fan Mod

The Ultimate Behringer iNuke NU3000DSP Fan Mod (CLICK HERE FOR PICTURES):





After purchasing an iNuke, I found the stock fan far too loud for home theater use. I liked seeing what people were experimenting with here (slower fans, inline resistors to slow down the stock fan, natural convection), but I didn't like the compromise that in almost all cases the capabilities of the fan were reduced or eliminated. Aside from the lowered cooling ability, I was concerned that any fan bearing, no matter how silent, would not address the issue of the noise form the air rushing out of the louvers in the front bezel. This mod not only reduces the fan noise to imperceptible levels, but also substantially increases the heatsink area and CFM of air flow.

I chose a fluid dynamic ball bearing because it is the quietest and longest lasting type of case bearing available. I went with the Cougar 140mm fan because it has a true Matsu****a designed fluid dynamic bearing. Here is an excellent write up and a list of fans with the best fluid dynamic bearings: fan bearings. Another benefit of the Cougar, aside from its impressive build quality, is the inclusion of an inline resistor that will drop the fan from a maximum of 1200rpm (19.2dB) to 700rpm (16.4dB). I did not use the resistor since the system is absolutely imperceptible at a couple meters, but even with the resistor installed, this fan will still push as much air as the stock fan. Without the resistor, this fan flows 70.5CFM (19.2dB) compared to the stock fans 55.5CFM (40.9dB). Make sure to get the 3-pin design and not the 4-pin PWM fan. This fan has some awesome rubberized insulation that I didn't want to screw up, so I just used a cheap 3-pin to 2-pin adapter listed below. The one down side of the Cougar is it doesn't include a fan grill. I picked up a 2-pack from newegg.com for $5. I'm not into a flashy home theater, so I went with the black fan, but it is also available in a bright orange blade fan that will match the iNuke.

As for the heatsinks, I used black anodized aluminum 28x28x15mm IC heatsinks. I would have used straight fin heatsinks below the fan for improved cooling performance, but I ultimately chose the cross cut style because I could not predict how air would flow across the heatsinks on the power supply side and I didn't want to buy two different types. I first cleaned all of the tabs with a little alcohol to remove any oils. By bending the output stage MOSFET heat tabs up to about a 60 degree angle a heatsink can be mounted on the top and bottom. I left the power supply heat tabs flat and placed a single heatsink on top of each. Make sure none of the adjacent heatsinks are able to touch each other, and also make sure the power supply heatsink fins are inline so they don't block flow from each other or cause unnecessary turbulence.

I masked off the lid and took measurements of the internal components to be able to layout the cutout for the fan. Make sure to measure repeatedly and keep track of the front, back, left, and right. After determining a center point, I took a nail a punched in an impression to guide the pilot bit of the hole saw. I fortunately already owned a 5 1/4" hole saw, but if you don't, then you will have to figure in an additional $35 for a hole saw from amazon.com. Once the hole was cut out, I used a pocket square and the fan grill as a guide to punch and drill the fan mount holes with a 13/64" drill bit. I then cleaned up the cut aluminum with a rat-tail and flat bastard file.

I installed the fan utilizing the included rubber mounting tabs and then snipped off the ends. I didn't want to have a gaping hole in the back (that's what she said), so I purchased a few 8-32 machine screws and reinstalled the stock fan grill. I was considering cutting a piece of the stock fan shroud and limiting the amount of air that could flow directly out of the back, but after running it, I believe there is plenty of cold air flowing out of the front of the amp even with the back completely open. In the end I have an amp that is effectively silent, yet is cooled far better than the stock Behringer design. I am very pleased with it, and I do not baby it in anyway. The obvious limitation is that nothing can be set on top of the top-mounted fan, and if it is rack-mounted, it will have to have an open slot above it. My total cost was $42.04. If you have to buy the hole saw and a role of masking tape, figure the price at about $80. This puts a silent "3000w" home theater amp with on board DSP at about $360.

(CLICK HERE FOR PICTURES)

The Stock Fan

For anyone wondering, the fan in a recently shipped iNuke300DSP is a "Bi-Sonic BP802512HL-03-W". It is a 12V 80x80x25mm 2-pin fan with a maximum of 55.53CFM at 4000rpm and a stated 40.9dB-A

Here is the datasheet: http://datasheet.octopart.com/BP8025...eet-525890.pdf

These are a couple interesting links I found when looking for the best heatsink design:


Why you should consider straight fin heatsinks, if possible, when you know the direction of airflow:
https://www.aavid.com/sites/default/...n-heatsink.pdf

Why you should choose anodized heatsinks for natural convection systems:
http://www.aavid.com/product-group/e...ons-na/anodize

PARTS:

COUGAR CF-V14HB Vortex Hydro-Dynamic-Bearing (Fluid) 300,000 Hours 14CM Silent Cooling Fan (Black) - $17.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835553007

APEVIA G-140MM 140mm Fan Grill 2 in 1 pack - $4.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-078-_-Product

FREE Shipping 10pcs 28x28x15mm Cheap CPU Black Aluminum Heatsink With Blue Thermal Conductive Double Sided Adhesive Tapes - $15.00
http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6...65459518779892

30cm Fan Adapter Cable Case Ventilation 3-Pin Plug 2-Pin Jacket Coupling - $2.50
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30cm-Fan-Ada.../331312882600?

4x 8-32 Machine Screws with Washers and Nuts - $1.56
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Last edited by funkingitup; 02-11-2015 at 03:24 PM.
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post #2 of 30 Old 02-01-2015, 07:41 PM
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Pretty damn cool / nicely done!
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post #3 of 30 Old 02-07-2015, 06:39 PM
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Impressive.

But I wonder what % of the airflow is directly from the inlet and out the top.

Noah
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post #4 of 30 Old 02-07-2015, 07:50 PM
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Great Job !

I wonder if in the Inuke 6000, with just 1of these fans + heat sinks would = original 2 Stock fans without heatsinks?
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post #5 of 30 Old 02-08-2015, 03:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randyc1 View Post
Great Job !

I wonder if in the Inuke 6000, with just 1of these fans + heat sinks would = original 2 Stock fans without heatsinks?
That's a tricky one. The airflow would certainly be diminished. The new fan puts out about 70CFM, but I would imagine the iNuke 6000 uses two of the iNuke 3000 fans for a total of about 110CFM of airflow stock. If I were going to attempt to improve the cooling on a 6000, I would remove both fans and replace one with a slower turning 80mm fluid dynamic bearing fan. I would put heatsinks on and then use a 140mm Cougar over top (A = 15393.8 mm2), or even better yet would be two 120mm Cougars (A = 22,619.4 mm2) considering that the 6000s have a deeper case. That should give 130CFM+ of airflow and be much quieter. For reference an 80mm fan has an A = 5026.55 mm2.

Make sure to post some pics if you attempt it. Also, try to remember to post a video of before and after. I forgot to and it is my one disappointment with the project. This thing is totally silent now.

Last edited by funkingitup; 02-08-2015 at 03:52 PM.
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post #6 of 30 Old 02-08-2015, 03:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post
Impressive.

But I wonder what % of the airflow is directly from the inlet and out the top.
It isn't how much air flows from the inlet and out of the top, but rather how much air forced in from the top flows directly out the back. The is a forced air system blowing into the case, just as the stock fan did. As I mention in the instructions, I considered blocking some of the air from flowing out the back, but after running it, I can feel cold air flowing out of the louvers across the entire front bezel. I have pushed it pretty hard with test tones for 10min and I have no problems. The stock fan shroud blows air from the back directly to the front with no channeling laterally to the power stage heatsinks. Combined with more than ten times the heatsink area of the stock unit, I feel very secure that my unit is getting far better cooling than the stock unit.

An ideal solution would probably be to somewhat block the rear hole and cut some louvers on the power side of the amp to direct airflow that way, but I'll save this for someone else. I have cut my amp enough.
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post #7 of 30 Old 02-08-2015, 04:57 PM
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Instead of cutting a hole on the top, couldn't you replace the top with a piece of acrylic or plexi glass and cut a hole in that? If you ever need to revert back to stock you still have your top intact.
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post #8 of 30 Old 02-08-2015, 05:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post
Instead of cutting a hole on the top, couldn't you replace the top with a piece of acrylic or plexi glass and cut a hole in that? If you ever need to revert back to stock you still have your top intact.
You definitely could, and that is certainly one thing I considered, and it was actually my original plan. In the end, I decided against it for several reasons. I see that you edited the part of your post that said, "Shouldn't cost more than $10." That was a good estimate, but the absolute cheapest for most people would be $15 and it would be smarter to get this $20 piece so that they could cut two if needed: http://www.homedepot.com/p/LEXAN-24-...ZbrdgZ5tgZ12ky

The advantage is obvious for some that you could revert back to stock. I knew going into this that I would never want to go back to stock, so this was not an advantage for me. Also, I already had $40 wrapped up in a fan mod. I didn't want to add 50% more expense to the project. Though the plexiglass could look kind of cool, I prefer the factory look. Finally, and most importantly, I decided that the plexiglass wouldn't be the right choice for me since a metal chassis serves to prevent electromagnetic interference (radio-frequency interference) from entering circuits. Plexiglass does not.
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post #9 of 30 Old 02-08-2015, 05:50 PM
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Decent mod, what i did was buy video card ram heat-sinks and "sinked" the whole area where the shroud covers the hot area. I then used a Arctic cooling F8 fan with the shroud left on.

This keeps it cool and I can revert to stock without any sign of modification to keep my 3 year warranty. It is now silent yet blows enough air that you can feel it through the front vents.

This is the heat-sinks:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8x-Aluminum-...torefresh=true

This is the Fan:

http://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/arctic-f8.html

Who needs 4K?... just go see your optometrist.

Last edited by NODES; 02-08-2015 at 05:56 PM.
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post #10 of 30 Old 02-08-2015, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funkingitup View Post
It isn't how much air flows from the inlet and out of the top, but rather how much air forced in from the top flows directly out the back. The is a forced air system blowing into the case, just as the stock fan did. As I mention in the instructions, I considered blocking some of the air from flowing out the back, but after running it, I can feel cold air flowing out of the louvers across the entire front bezel. I have pushed it pretty hard with test tones for 10min and I have no problems. The stock fan shroud blows air from the back directly to the front with no channeling laterally to the power stage heatsinks. Combined with more than ten times the heatsink area of the stock unit, I feel very secure that my unit is getting far better cooling than the stock unit.

An ideal solution would probably be to somewhat block the rear hole and cut some louvers on the power side of the amp to direct airflow that way, but I'll save this for someone else. I havJke cut my amp enough.
Quote:
Originally Posted by funkingitup View Post
That's a tricky one. The airflow would certainly be diminished. The new fan puts out about 70CFM, but I would imagine the iNuke 6000 uses two of the iNuke 3000 fans for a total of about 110CFM of airflow stock. If I were going to attempt to improve the cooling on a 6000, I would remove both fans and replace one with a slower turning 80mm fluid dynamic bearing fan. I would put heatsinks on and then use a 140mm Cougar over top (A = 15393.8 mm2), or even better yet would be two 120mm Cougars (A = 22,619.4 mm2) considering that the 6000s have a deeper case. That should give 130CFM+ of airflow and be much quieter. For reference an 80mm fan has an A = 5026.55 mm2.

Make sure to post some pics if you attempt it. Also, try to remember to post a video of before and after. I forgot to and it is my one disappointment with the project. This thing is totally silent now.
Was just thinking that with heatsinks being much more efficient at dissapating heat ,i could get away with little less cfm's?
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post #11 of 30 Old 02-08-2015, 06:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randyc1 View Post
Was just thinking that with heatsinks being much more efficient at dissapating heat ,i could get away with little less cfm's?
Probably could, but lots of air would give you peace of mind.

Last edited by funkingitup; 02-11-2015 at 03:29 PM.
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post #12 of 30 Old 02-08-2015, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NODES View Post
Decent mod, what i did was buy video card ram heat-sinks and "sinked" the whole area where the shroud covers the hot area. I then used a Arctic cooling F8 fan with the shroud left on.

This keeps it cool and I can revert to stock without any sign of modification to keep my 3 year warranty. It is now silent yet blows enough air that you can feel it through the front vents.

This is the heat-sinks:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8x-Aluminum-...torefresh=true

This is the Fan:

http://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/arctic-f8.html
This mod flows more than twice as much air as that fan, while still being quieter (not important if your mod is already quieter than your room), and the heatsinks provide more surface area.Your mod seems decent, but without calculations of the heatsinks dissipation ability, it would be hard to know if the anemic 31CFM will protect it in the long run. That fan is significantly quieter because it turns significantly slower and puts out less volume of air. Then again, all mods have some drawback. This one (140mm) definitely puts the warranty in jeopardy.

Last edited by funkingitup; 02-08-2015 at 07:29 PM.
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post #13 of 30 Old 02-08-2015, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funkingitup View Post
This mod flows more than twice as much air as that fan, while still being quieter (not important if your mod is already quieter than your room), and the heatsinks provide more surface area.Your mod seems decent, but without calculations of the heatsinks dissipation ability, it would be hard to know if the anemic 31CFM will protect it in the long run. That fan is significantly quieter because it turns significantly slower and puts out less volume of air. Then again, all mods have some drawback. This one definitely puts the warranty in jeopardy.

how do you figure my mod puts warranty in jeopardy? Heat-sinks are removable and the fan was just removed and replaced without any splicing.

Besides... 31CFM with heat-sinks is a lot better then a screaming 55CFM with no heat-sinks in my opinion.

I have another 3K inuke incoming, I will test it vs the modded one and see what the temps are like.
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Who needs 4K?... just go see your optometrist.
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post #14 of 30 Old 02-08-2015, 07:29 PM - Thread Starter
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how do you figure my mod puts warranty in jeopardy? Heat-sinks are removable and the fan was just removed and replaced without any splicing.

Besides... 31CFM with heat-sinks is a lot better then a screaming 55CFM with no heat-sinks in my opinion.
The 80mm fan replacements do not compromise the warranty, this one does. Quieter is definitely better!

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post #15 of 30 Old 02-08-2015, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funkingitup View Post
It isn't how much air flows from the inlet and out of the top, but rather how much air forced in from the top flows directly out the back. The is a forced air system blowing into the case, just as the stock fan did.
Ah, missed that.

Good job; the air on the blowing side of a fan is moving much faster, so it's much more directed, so I don't see how you can go wrong with it blowing right at the heat sinks.

Noah
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post #16 of 30 Old 02-09-2015, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NODES View Post
Decent mod, what i did was buy video card ram heat-sinks and "sinked" the whole area where the shroud covers the hot area. I then used a Arctic cooling F8 fan with the shroud left on.

This keeps it cool and I can revert to stock without any sign of modification to keep my 3 year warranty. It is now silent yet blows enough air that you can feel it through the front vents.

This is the heat-sinks:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8x-Aluminum-...torefresh=true

This is the Fan:

http://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/arctic-f8.html
So, you stuck a heat sink on each gold tab? Pics?

Thanks

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post #17 of 30 Old 02-09-2015, 10:35 AM
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So, you stuck a heat sink on each gold tab? Pics?

Thanks

Yes I will post pix once my other 3K comes in and the rest of my heat-sinks I just ordered.

Who needs 4K?... just go see your optometrist.
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post #18 of 30 Old 02-10-2015, 01:46 AM
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I did my iNuke 6k fan mod back in 2013. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...l#post23314776

There is a thread about the iNuke 6k where I posted some pics - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...l#post24795571

The unit is pretty much dead silent and you can feel air coming out the front and back. Ran a few demos and watched some movies without any issue before upgrading to the 10Q clone.
I will actually be putting the iNuke back into operation later this year. I like the view into the amp that the clear acrylic allows. I have also had the diodes replaced twice under warranty as it takes about
10 minutes to get it back to stock standard. I would only suggest you change the wire guard for a dust filter.

The new Noctua Redux units have some pretty impressive stats. I got one but had yet to put it in.
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I actually posted a VERY similar thread a few weeks ago and didn't get a single comment, WTF???



The difference in mine was the science and reasoning regarding the TYPE of fan you would want to seek for this sort of installation due to the restriction imposed on the fan when mounting so close to obstructions. In mine, I had no choice but to mount the fan on the outside but the principal is still the same.



In an install such as this, the MORE IMPORTANT SPEC on a fan is static air pressure, NOT CFM !

Repeat --> NOT CFM.









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post #20 of 30 Old 02-10-2015, 05:31 AM
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I actually posted about that same thing in someone elses inuke fan mod post, and a couple found it interesting, and everyone else was like eh, mine's been working fine for three days now, so whatever

Quote:
Originally Posted by rms8 View Post
I actually posted a VERY similar thread a few weeks ago and didn't get a single comment, WTF???



The difference in mine was the science and reasoning regarding the TYPE of fan you would want to seek for this sort of installation due to the restriction imposed on the fan when mounting so close to obstructions. In mine, I had no choice but to mount the fan on the outside but the principal is still the same.



In an install such as this, the MORE IMPORTANT SPEC on a fan is static air pressure, NOT CFM !

Repeat --> NOT CFM.

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Thank you so dang much for being so " (almost) exhaustively complete"


I did the "regular" noctua fan mod/ R & R for my first 6000DSP , by the book


but this is so F'n cool literally and figuratively
how could an avid DIY guy not see greatness here ?


you're a desktop icon for reference since the second amp is on the way
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post #23 of 30 Old 02-11-2015, 02:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Thank you so dang much for being so " (almost) exhaustively complete"


I did the "regular" noctua fan mod/ R & R for my first 6000DSP , by the book


but this is so F'n cool literally and figuratively
how could an avid DIY guy not see greatness here ?


you're a desktop icon for reference since the second amp is on the way
My goal was definitely to make it to where if someone was inspired, they could purchase every single part and have a direct plan of action before they even left the thread. If there are enough of us modding them, Behringer may one day realize there is an untapped market. I love seeing the mods. I will definitely keep this thread posted about the durability. I expect no problems. Time will tell.
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post #24 of 30 Old 02-11-2015, 02:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vitod View Post
So, you stuck a heat sink on each gold tab? Pics?

Thanks
Take a look at this thread for lots of pictures: http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...#ixzz3QYDOj1Uw

Also if you look at my mod at the top of this thread, the pictures show heatsinks added directly on top of the tabs on the right side of the amp. There is a link to more than 30 images next to the title of the thread.

Last edited by funkingitup; 02-11-2015 at 02:33 PM.
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post #25 of 30 Old 02-11-2015, 02:31 PM - Thread Starter
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I actually posted a VERY similar thread a few weeks ago and didn't get a single comment, WTF???

The difference in mine was the science and reasoning regarding the TYPE of fan you would want to seek for this sort of installation due to the restriction imposed on the fan when mounting so close to obstructions. In mine, I had no choice but to mount the fan on the outside but the principal is still the same.

In an install such as this, the MORE IMPORTANT SPEC on a fan is static air pressure, NOT CFM !

Repeat --> NOT CFM.
Glad to have guys like you documenting their experiments. I checked your mod out and it looks great, but I think some of the lack of interest could be in the details and the practicality of it for most people. I briefly looked through and I still don't know what fan you chose. Though you mentioned the possibility of hole saws, it may also help to let people know that a 5 1/4" hole saw can make a hole for a 140mm fan. You are definitely right that air pressure is a very important stat. It is even more so in your mod where the case and flow is so obstructed. All large fans with slow speeds will suffer in static air pressures compared with their smaller, faster (and LOUDER) counterparts. The iNuke is practically an empty box compared to that amplifier and my heatsink fins are directly inline with the air flowing in. There is exceptionally little obstruction to overcome, so most fans are suitable for the iNuke, but buying the best fan for the money should always be a goal.

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post #26 of 30 Old 05-08-2015, 10:47 AM - Thread Starter
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The top mount 140mm fan is running great. I addressed the light issue from the amp by buying a $2 Sealing Washer Assortment from Harbor Freight. I placed two of the 15x24x3mm washers included around the knobs. In both cases the light is much dimmer to the eye than what the picture shows.
BEFORE:



AFTER:

digitrip and NODES like this.
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post #27 of 30 Old 05-31-2015, 08:20 AM
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Thanks for all the photos and info! I am planning a similar mod to lower the noise of the iNuke. I also have that same Belkin power unit...very nice.
Just a tip on the 140mm fan. The cooling would be better if the fan were mounted externally. It looks much cleaner internal like you have it, but it would flow better if it were mounted outside and had room to distribute the air inside. The Noctura NF-A14 140mm fans are really quiet if you want to try and drop the sound even more.
Great work and thanks again for the posts.
-Kevin
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post #28 of 30 Old 08-23-2015, 07:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Kevin Cahill View Post
Thanks for all the photos and info! I am planning a similar mod to lower the noise of the iNuke. I also have that same Belkin power unit...very nice.
Just a tip on the 140mm fan. The cooling would be better if the fan were mounted externally. It looks much cleaner internal like you have it, but it would flow better if it were mounted outside and had room to distribute the air inside. The Noctura NF-A14 140mm fans are really quiet if you want to try and drop the sound even more.
Great work and thanks again for the posts.
-Kevin
Good luck with your project. The Noctua fans are nice, but the Cougar is better in airflow, sound level, and build quality. I'm going on 7 months since the mod with daily use and everything is great.
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post #29 of 30 Old 03-18-2016, 03:25 PM - Thread Starter
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I've racked up over a year of daily use and have no problems with the altered cooling. I drive it hard with movies and music. I did change one thing. The fan connector fits very loosely to the board. When you install a new fan, make sure to put a drop of glue from the connector to the board like the stock fan did. When I moved the amp, I was lucky to see that the fan didn't start after being plugged back in. I simply put it back on, and glued it down. Unless someone knows otherwise, this is still the cheapest watt per dollar silent home theater amp with DSP you can buy.
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post #30 of 30 Old 07-02-2016, 02:44 PM
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funkingitup - great mod! your post inspired me to do a similar mod minus the $35 hole saw. looks a bit less refined but some probably won't care. check it out

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...0-fan-mod.html

Last edited by Mtrc808; 07-02-2016 at 02:46 PM. Reason: oops
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