Anyone ever built a DIY arcade cabinet ? - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 78 Old 03-16-2015, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveTheGeek View Post
Nice ! If you have any question, feel free to ask !
Thanks! What did you use for the "toys" inside the cabinet, I see people doing it many different ways with diffrent hardware. I dont want to go to crazy - maybe one 5 led light strip and some solenoids to emulate the real pinball sounds. do you have a build list, wiring diagram?
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post #62 of 78 Old 03-16-2015, 12:44 PM
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I am going to be doing this... but I need to find some time to get the HTPC part perfect first. I know I can do the wood working, but I want to test the PC side of things first and get it nice.

If I can't make it reliable and turn key, I won't do it. My passion for PC is dwindling though... I don't enjoy messing around as much as I used to enjoy it.
I have spent a few hours on it already, its confusing at first - do an install, then overwrite those files with other files, moving files to different directories, etc. It starts to make sense after awhile. Then there are multible programs, Visual Pinball, VPinMame, HyperSpin, multible versions of the same game, ROM's - its a whole new world! If you are doing a one screen stand-up macine it will be much easier. There does seem to be many people willing to help.

I went to a local guy that has two full size virtual pinball macines and a couple of stand-up machines, once you see them its easy to get hooked. Thousands of games, great sound, lights - my wife was impressed so I have buy-in from her so thats a big plus.
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post #63 of 78 Old 03-16-2015, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djhamp View Post
Thanks! What did you use for the "toys" inside the cabinet, I see people doing it many different ways with diffrent hardware. I dont want to go to crazy - maybe one 5 led light strip and some solenoids to emulate the real pinball sounds. do you have a build list, wiring diagram?
I have five RGB leds (from zebboards http://www.zebsboards.com), two strobes and two contactors (plan to go to 8 but cannot find them not too expensive yet on ebay...) all controlled by a ledwiz + a sainsmart relay for the contactors.

I don't have a motor or anything else and I don't think I plan to add those either. It's already pretty cool with what I have !

Steve - Blogger at http://www.nextgenhometheater.com
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post #64 of 78 Old 03-16-2015, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveTheGeek View Post
I have five RGB leds (from zebboards http://www.zebsboards.com), two strobes and two contactors (plan to go to 8 but cannot find them not too expensive yet on ebay...) all controlled by a ledwiz + a sainsmart relay for the contactors.

I don't have a motor or anything else and I don't think I plan to add those either. It's already pretty cool with what I have !
Thanks! Do you have the sainsmart part #? Yeah, the SIEMENS contactors are crazy expensive, I did find some 24VDC ones for $5 apiece, not sure if those would work or not. I do want to keep costs down as much as possible. I did buy some ford starter solenoids for $4 that are supposed to sound good.

What software are you running?
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post #65 of 78 Old 03-17-2015, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djhamp View Post
Thanks! Do you have the sainsmart part #? Yeah, the SIEMENS contactors are crazy expensive, I did find some 24VDC ones for $5 apiece, not sure if those would work or not. I do want to keep costs down as much as possible. I did buy some ford starter solenoids for $4 that are supposed to sound good.

What software are you running?
This is the board I used : http://www.sainsmart.com/8-channel-d...ttl-logic.html. I think the tool (DirectOutputFramework) now supports the USB one, but in my case I went through the ledwiz and then to the actual contactors.

Let me know how your solenoids go, are they 24VDC too ?

Regarding the software, I run PinballX as a frontend, Visual Pinball (4 versions), Future Pinball (but I hate it, I don't like the pace and realism), Pinball Arcade and PinballFX. I'd say that 90% of my play time is with Visual Pinball.

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post #66 of 78 Old 03-26-2015, 09:07 AM - Thread Starter
 
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I think I am putting this project on hold for a couple months- I promised my mother a bed foot header cabinet that a flat TV could rise up out of on a remote.
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post #67 of 78 Old 03-26-2015, 07:13 PM
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This was an arcade i built with an i3 on a micro itx mobo inside. Used it for mame and a few other emulators. Naomi, snes 9x etc
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post #68 of 78 Old 08-19-2015, 10:36 AM - Thread Starter
 
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I like it ^
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post #69 of 78 Old 08-20-2015, 10:57 AM
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I have not been on this forum for quite awhile. I did finish the pinball cabinet, turned out great. There are 50 or so games on it so far, plays pretty realistic. Force feedback, sub-woofer, led lights, etc. My kids want me to build one for them now, I think my son and I are going to build a stand-up arcade. Many similar features between the two
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post #70 of 78 Old 08-20-2015, 01:59 PM
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This is a fun topic, I wish I caught this earlier (though perhaps this is slightly OT though build and DIY are key to this).

Without reading the rest of the thread, I'm not sure how far you got along your plan or how "authentic" you had wanted the setup to be. You can load MAME on any computer and get to gaming in short order, but if you're a "pixel perfect" type of guy (and I am, that OCD translates well to modeling / tweaking sub parameters among other things), then playing games on an LCD at resolutions and refresh rates which aren't what was used on the original is not acceptable. It's nice, but it's not the experience the way you had it back in the day.

At least 90% of the people who use MAME don't care, but if you were in the minority that did, then you'd want to look at using a CRT that's capable of multiple scan rates (multisync monitor), and a video card and software that's capable of outputting at those resolutions or a multiple assuming you use a scanline effect.

I went the way of converting existing cabinets, and picked the Japanese styled candy cabs because they were unique. I replaced the 15KHz monitors with Betson Multi-Sync monitors, added a JPAC to interface with the JAMMA harness, a spinner in one cab, replaced most of the buttons, and installed computers and a dreamcast in them.

They've been fun for a good number of years now, and I still enjoy the sound of the quarters as they clink through the coin mech and settle with the other quarters.
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Go big or go home, unless you're already at home. Then you have to go big.
My near 7' tall 18" Xcon Sonotube Subwoofer.
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post #71 of 78 Old 08-20-2015, 02:29 PM
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Very nice build!!!

Steve - Blogger at http://www.nextgenhometheater.com
Home Theater: Marantz SR7010 7.2.4 - Emotiva XPA-5/Outlaw 770 - KEF Q Series 2017 Speakers - SVS PB2000 Subs - JVC DLA-X550R - Samsung UBD-K8500
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post #72 of 78 Old 02-08-2018, 01:17 PM
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Bumping this back up.

I'm planning to build a cabinet and want to wire my own controls and use http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html

Which brand of buttons and joystick do I want? There appears to be 100s of off brand options available, but I'd rather have something authentic/quality.
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post #73 of 78 Old 02-08-2018, 01:57 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnDean View Post
Bumping this back up.

I'm planning to build a cabinet and want to wire my own controls and use http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html

Which brand of buttons and joystick do I want? There appears to be 100s of off brand options available, but I'd rather have something authentic/quality.
Not directly related to an arcade cabinet, but I built myself a custom dual-analog stick arcade style controller a couple years back, using Suzo Happ heavy duty analog sticks (not cheap, $150 bucks each) and a Wii U Pro controller.

It worked like a charm on all consoles, wirelessly (using a wireless Wii U Pro controller receiver on PC for 20 bucks that changes it to an Xbox 360 controller), until I fried the pad-hacked circuit board recently while fixing a solder connection.

Now I'm re-doing the electronics using an Xbox One Controller, since I sold my Wii U anyway. You can always play Mario Kart or Zelda on Cemu, and much better than the original hardware too (4K, 144hz even). Plus there's a Switch emulator coming out too. N.B: I'm not advocating piracy, I own all the games I play, even on emulator.

Just keep in mind most of these old arcade sticks and cabinets use digital controllers, they aren't analog, so you can't play any modern games on them, like twin stick shooters (e.g. Metroid Samus Returns).

The Ultimarc 360 is interesting though, it gives you full analog plus you can combine several into a single logical controller, using one of their other chips they sell. Plus it has limiters for 4-way or 8-way and ultra-sensitive and ultra-accurate control. But it's definitely PC-only that one. The Suzo Happ ones are way more expensive and actually potentiometer-based, with all the negatives that entails, but you can just drop them into pad hack projects. Don't worry about 5-ohm vs 10-ohm pots compatibility (all controllers use 10-ohm pots I think, but the Suzo Happ ones are 5-ohm, or vice versa. But they work since they act as a voltage divider off your controller's terminals, not a variable resistor directly). Calibration sometimes needs to be done to enable a dead zone.

If I had to start over I'd go with a PC-only version that wasn't a pad hack at all, just use two Ultimarc 360s and some buttons and build the cabinet yourself. I have zero woodworking skills but with a drill bit you can easily make the holes for the buttons. Mounting the joysticks properly, from the bottom, is trickier but still doable with some effort.

I have some pictures lying around for my controller somewhere, if you're interested. Those old arcade games might be for nostalgia but frankly they play quite poorly. This was on purpose, of course, to make you die faster and spend more quarters. That's the opposite of fun for me. I enjoy a challenge but also good controls. To me that means dual analog sticks. Then you can play anything on PC or emulator. Pad Hacks are only necessary if you want full native console compatibility. It was a neat trick when I pulled it off but I'm PC-only from now on.
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post #74 of 78 Old 02-09-2018, 10:25 AM
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I built a 2-player Joypad about 10 years ago with X-Arcade controller and real arcade sticks/buttons... I had plans to build a low-profile cabinet for it, but never got around to it. I played around with it on the projector on a few occasions but it's mostly stayed stored away in the attic. Every couple of years I toy around with throwing up an LCD that'd be recessed in the wall and hanging the controller under it, but I usually lose the motivation since I know it'd rarely get played. I think I like the idea of an arcade machine in other people's theaters way more than in my own.

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post #75 of 78 Old 02-09-2018, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Stephen Hopkins View Post
I built a 2-player Joypad about 10 years ago with X-Arcade controller and real arcade sticks/buttons... I had plans to build a low-profile cabinet for it, but never got around to it. I played around with it on the projector on a few occasions but it's mostly stayed stored away in the attic. Every couple of years I toy around with throwing up an LCD that'd be recessed in the wall and hanging the controller under it, but I usually lose the motivation since I know it'd rarely get played. I think I like the idea of an arcade machine in other people's theaters way more than in my own.
I plan for this to go in my garage, which is where I find we hang out when the "buddies" come over to work on whatever they want to use my tools for.
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post #76 of 78 Old 02-09-2018, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnDean View Post
Bumping this back up.

I'm planning to build a cabinet and want to wire my own controls and use http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html

Which brand of buttons and joystick do I want? There appears to be 100s of off brand options available, but I'd rather have something authentic/quality.
I recommend checking out BYOAC forums for Arcade related information. Spend a few hours just reading there and you will learn more than you ever needed to know.

There are a lot of "authentic" controls out there to choose from because there was never just one manufacturer or even one style. Ultimarc is great to work with, their quality is good and service is great. It always amazed me how I could order something on Tuesday and have it on Friday going from the UK to Montana. I can't get stuff that fast from California half the time...

Here are pics of the three builds I did, the first for myself, then one for my parents, and then one for a friend. All three used full RGB lit buttons, so the game determined what color they were. The build threads are all on BYAOC forum. They are fun to build if you enjoy woodworking, electronics, computers, and of course arcade games.

*edit: I used U360's in my first cab, but I went servo stiks in the others - 4-way/8-way sticks that automatically switch depending on the game, that way it is the closest to "authentic" as you can get and still be a universal stick. The u360, even with the heavier springs, was a little loose feeling to me, and I found I never used the analogue capabilities anyway. In fact, of the thousands of games I had set up to run, I play maybe 50 of them, and mostly arcade games, seldom do I play console games on it.
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post #77 of 78 Old 02-12-2020, 12:56 AM
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I wouldn't go crazy with PC specs. Evidently it doesn't take a lot to run a lot of these games. I see some pretty weak sauce PC's running this stuff perfectly as per the individuals running them. Somebody reminded me. . . they are running 8bit and 16bit games, best case scenario. Won't require a lot of assets to run that. https://creative-arcades.com/collect...abinet-arcades
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post #78 of 78 Old 02-20-2020, 03:44 AM
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I needed to fabricate a home arcade machine that could play all the exemplary computer games just as those comfort top picks. I've messed with arcade emulators on my PC previously so I knew a tad about how everything functioned. View this: https://creative-arcades.com/collect...cktail-arcades
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