Originally Posted by JohnDean
Bumping this back up.
I'm planning to build a cabinet and want to wire my own controls and use http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html
Which brand of buttons and joystick do I want? There appears to be 100s of off brand options available, but I'd rather have something authentic/quality.
Not directly related to an arcade cabinet, but I built myself a custom dual-analog stick arcade style controller a couple years back, using Suzo Happ heavy duty analog sticks (not cheap, $150 bucks each) and a Wii U Pro controller.
It worked like a charm on all consoles, wirelessly (using a wireless Wii U Pro controller receiver on PC for 20 bucks that changes it to an Xbox 360 controller), until I fried the pad-hacked circuit board recently while fixing a solder connection.
Now I'm re-doing the electronics using an Xbox One Controller, since I sold my Wii U anyway. You can always play Mario Kart or Zelda on Cemu, and much better than the original hardware too (4K, 144hz even). Plus there's a Switch emulator coming out too. N.B: I'm not advocating piracy, I own all the games I play, even on emulator.
Just keep in mind most of these old arcade sticks and cabinets use digital controllers, they aren't analog, so you can't play any modern games on them, like twin stick shooters (e.g. Metroid Samus Returns).
The Ultimarc 360 is interesting though, it gives you full analog plus you can combine several into a single logical controller, using one of their other chips they sell. Plus it has limiters for 4-way or 8-way and ultra-sensitive and ultra-accurate control. But it's definitely PC-only that one. The Suzo Happ ones are way more expensive and actually potentiometer-based, with all the negatives that entails, but you can just drop them into pad hack projects. Don't worry about 5-ohm vs 10-ohm pots compatibility (all controllers use 10-ohm pots I think, but the Suzo Happ ones are 5-ohm, or vice versa. But they work since they act as a voltage divider off your controller's terminals, not a variable resistor directly). Calibration sometimes needs to be done to enable a dead zone.
If I had to start over I'd go with a PC-only version that wasn't a pad hack at all, just use two Ultimarc 360s and some buttons and build the cabinet yourself. I have zero woodworking skills but with a drill bit you can easily make the holes for the buttons. Mounting the joysticks properly, from the bottom, is trickier but still doable with some effort.
I have some pictures lying around for my controller somewhere, if you're interested. Those old arcade games might be for nostalgia but frankly they play quite poorly. This was on purpose, of course, to make you die faster and spend more quarters. That's the opposite of fun for me. I enjoy a challenge but also good controls. To me that means dual analog sticks. Then you can play anything on PC or emulator. Pad Hacks are only necessary if you want full native console compatibility. It was a neat trick when I pulled it off but I'm PC-only from now on.