$1500 to Spend- Table Saw Recommendations...GO! - Page 8 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #211 of 314 Old 04-14-2015, 10:35 PM
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This weekend I just picked up blades from the shop I use to sharpen. I have been using this same shop for about 8 years.
They do my blades, hole saws, router bits and chain saws.

This last pickup was right at about $200 - 17 blades (mix of 7 1/4", 10"s and 12"s), 6 hole saws, and a few router bits.

This guy has CNC machines that he makes his own custom CNC tooling out of carbide rod, blades, and he will braze on new carbide if you break a tooth. I feel like they come back sharpened better than new.

I just drop off since it is pretty close to me, but I believe he does a mail service, as well as a 4 state pickup. (Northern Illinois, Southern Wisconsin, Eastern Iowa, and Northern Indiana.)

I don't know if forum rules allow recommending a business, but I will only for the reason that I think they do great work for very reasonable prices.

Midwest Saw & Tooling, Inc.
850 Meadowview Crossing
West Chicago, IL 60185
http://www.midwestsaw.com/sharpening.html

SI HST-18 DIY Subwoofer / Sony VPLHW40ES / Onkyo TX-NR636 /
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post #212 of 314 Old 04-15-2015, 09:00 PM - Thread Starter
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post #213 of 314 Old 04-15-2015, 09:03 PM - Thread Starter
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My first non-harbor freight bar clamps arrived today! These suckers are heavy!



Also, @Boxozaxu , I picked up this dial indicator and it seems to be pretty nice. It's all metal and has smooth plunging action. It was around $30 on Amazon.

Boxozaxu likes this.
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post #214 of 314 Old 04-16-2015, 07:49 AM
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I missed a craigslist deal on a set of 12, 4 each 24", 36" and 48" Bessey clamps on craigslist for $250. The post was 5 hours old and I was already the second caller.
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post #215 of 314 Old 04-16-2015, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ktm250rider View Post
I missed a craigslist deal on a set of 12, 4 each 24", 36" and 48" Bessey clamps on craigslist for $250. The post was 5 hours old and I was already the second caller.
That would have been a hell of a deal!
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post #216 of 314 Old 04-16-2015, 09:25 AM
 
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Originally Posted by cookieattk View Post
remember u only need 1 tool running at a time i have 1 20A dedicated for dc , 1 dedicated 30A for table saw , 50A for bandsaw, j/p and a belt sander. if i were you i would just run 2 240v one for dc one for every thing else.
I am adding ~3000 sq foot addition- including dedicated theater.
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post #217 of 314 Old 04-16-2015, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
I am adding ~3000 sq foot addition- including dedicated theater.
A 3000sqft addition? Sir, that is more than twice the size of my whole house. I think you've reached the limit on what you can call an addition 1000sqft back.
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post #218 of 314 Old 04-16-2015, 12:58 PM
 
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A 3000sqft addition? Sir, that is more than twice the size of my whole house. I think you've reached the limit on what you can call an addition 1000sqft back.
Well considering my current house is effectively only 768sq feet, I guess you could be right.
My current home is 32x24 - cape code style. The rooms on second floor are basically useless because I don't have dormer in them and the ceiling slopes to the point you can only stand up in the center of the room. I have no garage or extra breezeway yet. My parents live right down street and have three garages- one I use for a wood shop, another I use to store my toys and stuff. They have 5 acres, which I grew up on, and are within walking distance so I kind of have been able to get by with what I have. I bough it because the price was right, about 12 years ago when I was in my 20's. I was single, working a lot, no GF and not married or kids. I am 37 now, married, with kids. The house feels like 10x smaller after kids. We only have 1 bathroom too. That also sucks.

My lifestyle really needs a garage. I'd love a wood shop like Dtsdig is making- I am certainly Jelly there. I also would love a proper theater, this isn't a hobby I found yesterday and I've wanted a proper theater for about a decade already. So the plan is to tear off the roof- go up a full walls and put the roof back on giving a full sized second floor, also extending the house 12 feet back, bottom floor addition just being a simply 3 season porch for costs reasons, and gaining the extra space up top for laundry room off my closet, and a master bath- two kids room, kids bath etc.. We are also adding a breezeway mudroom 16x30 on the side of the house between the garage and home- two story with stairs up to a loft. The theater will be above the garage. Below the 16x30 area I would like to make my wood shop in the basement. Perhaps not right away- but a few years later when the project is done. I'd like to have a nice wood shop set up that is dust collected and climate controlled. Otherwise I will never be able to park a car in the garage, because I'll always have something going.

Speaking of which- dts I assume you abandoned parking the cars in the garage?
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post #219 of 314 Old 04-16-2015, 01:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
Well considering my current house is effectively only 768sq feet, I guess you could be right.
My current home is 32x24 - cape code style.
Speaking of which- dts I assume you abandoned parking the cars in the garage?
That sounds like a good plan for your place, Mike. Do you have a ballpark of what the rough construction will work out to be ($$)? We looked at a few cape cods before we bought our house 5 years ago and I just couldn't stand the idea of having so little usable space on the second floor. We ended up buying a 2000 sq ft split level ranch with a 2 car attached garage and I've really appreciated the layout. We have 4 bedrooms, 2.5 baths and another enclosed room in the downstairs that is also bedroom size (that's my drum room). Realistically, I will never have a dedicated theater in this house unless I did an addition. I think I'm mostly ok with that though because my wife is so supportive of having massive speakers around the living room and possibilities for some room treatments in addition to the one panel we already installed.

To answer your question, only my wife's car was able to fit into the garage over the last two winters. She's got a VW EOS hardtop convertible that is a pain in the ass to have outside in the frozen mush because her door windows will freeze and she wont be able to open the doors. Her car gets the garage over the winter months, that was the agreement.
My plan is to build an addition to the garage, possibly next year. I've got something like 25 feet of property that is mine between mine and my neighbor's houses. Using up 10 to 12 feet of it would be awesome. Some of it depends on what my daughter's college costs this fall end up being :O !!!! In the meantime, everything in my "shop" is on wheels and with some MAJOR cleaning and organizing over the next several weeks, it should be pretty workable in there. It's funny when I look back at my sub builds on HTS, it's amazing to see how much more stuff has accumulated in my garage in 2 years. I had an entire wall clear 2 years ago! lol
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post #220 of 314 Old 04-16-2015, 03:27 PM
 
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That sounds like a good plan for your place, Mike. Do you have a ballpark of what the rough construction will work out to be ($$)? We looked at a few cape cods before we bought our house 5 years ago and I just couldn't stand the idea of having so little usable space on the second floor. We ended up buying a 2000 sq ft split level ranch with a 2 car attached garage and I've really appreciated the layout. We have 4 bedrooms, 2.5 baths and another enclosed room in the downstairs that is also bedroom size (that's my drum room). Realistically, I will never have a dedicated theater in this house unless I did an addition. I think I'm mostly ok with that though because my wife is so supportive of having massive speakers around the living room and possibilities for some room treatments in addition to the one panel we already installed.
I did not want to get into too much details and derail your thread- but I guess after I think about it you already bought your $1500 saw

Um cost is a funny thing- because I am nearly certain it's going to cost a lot more than I expect or can afford.

MY goal is to bring the shell phase of the construction in under $100k. I'm currently enteraining bids now, getting quotes specifically on:

Concrete and excavation
Framing
Roofing
Siding
Windows
upgrade front door to nicer one with side windows

That includes demo of the second floor and roof and adding it back.

This is kind of the idea now:



My current floor plan is the normal cape style.

Our plan for that is here:




I already removed the wall between the kitchen and living room now- I did that a few years back. The rooms are just too small. It really opened up the house. So the plan is to do the same on the other side of the stairs where I scribbled in RED color- basically creating an open floor plan around the stairs.

That left side of the house where our existing two bedrooms are now, would become one room- the living room. The current living room would become the dining room- which makes sense flowing from the kitchen. We would remove the closet so you can go room to room or side to side either in front or behind the stairs.

I'm on a pretty tight budget so the back porch was originally intended to just be lolly columns full of cement on sonotubes- holding up the second floor. But the more I thought about it- the more I thought it might settle faster than a real foundation. So I am changing the plan to be a real foundation and enclose the porch- since important parts of the house will be above like bedrooms and bathrooms.

My current plan is to use something like these cheap sliding glass doors to make it a glass room. The porch will be 12 x 32 so I was thinking 4 of those 6 foot sliding glass doors is actually kind of affordable and gives me a lot of light and glass on the wall- and I can open all of them and keep the screens in during the summer which is nice. Screens are only $39.

The theater will go above the garage in the bonus room- and have 10 foot ceilings.

I don't have all the cash now to finish it all- and I can only work so fast anyways. The plan is to DIY a lot of it myself and try to save some cost and capitalize on my own sweat equity.

The plan now is for someone to come do the foundation, framing, roofing and siding- basically leaving me with a weather tight shell. Then I would take over. I can do most things, and I learn quick and have support. I just don't work fast enough do to the big part of the shell. I'll likely frame the interior, do some of the sheet rocking, all of the trim, all of the floors, the closets, bathrooms etc..

I'm going to rough plumb the babies bath upstairs and just shut the door. They are 10 months. When they are able to use and need it, I'll buy the vanity, sink, shower, toilet.. etc.. A lot of the project is being approached like this, so it might be a 5 to 10 year plan in reality. Long term once all that is done- I'll circle back and expand my kitchen into the new breezeway/mudroom, as I am kind of planning things on that happening in the next 5 or 10 years.
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post #221 of 314 Old 04-16-2015, 03:35 PM
 
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For a garage- My father just built a 3 car garage turn key - with ample electrical for about $60k. Insurance actually paid a lot of it, as he lost another garage when a big tree fell onto it. It wasn't to code and our local town made him bring it up to code- which mean a brand new one. Which benefits me, because the old two car garage I've turned into my speaker building factory! hahaha...

But I honestly dream of the day I have my own garage and my own wood shop to play in.

I keep watching you buy all these cool tools- I am jealous. Your shop is turning out great.
Now you can see why I asked about the electrical- I will need a second 200 amp panel in my new garage, and jump over to the existing 100 amp panel making it a sub panel. We did the same thing at my dad's house- He has 4 20amp circuits in both garages- and it's nice. I can run the air compressor and TS while the pool pump is running, and the AC in the garage is on! This would never happen before we did the upgrade.

For your project I would expect you can DIY for about 10K. Perhaps 15k. You'd need to get some quotes on the pour- but the rest of it is affordable.
My advice- go as big as you can possibly go. Your town might have rules about how much space to the property line. Try getting a variance or exception and using as much space as you can- you can't have too big a garage- especially if you are sharing it as a workshop. It would be nice to get cars in the garage and have a proper wood shop!
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post #222 of 314 Old 04-16-2015, 04:50 PM - Thread Starter
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@Mfusick It would be awesome to fit cars in too. I am hoping I can do it for $15k or less. Buying the tools has been very exciting but also terrifying. I am completely overwhelmed. It will improve starting tomorrow with the main panel job, but holy crap. It's cool and fun but eventually I'll have to do something with it all! It's very ass-backwards feeling.

Your reno looks like it will be awesome! I'm planning to hire out the shell work as well just for time sakes. We'll see. You'll get there, man! No worries!
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post #223 of 314 Old 04-17-2015, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
@Mfusick It would be awesome to fit cars in too. I am hoping I can do it for $15k or less. Buying the tools has been very exciting but also terrifying. I am completely overwhelmed. It will improve starting tomorrow with the main panel job, but holy crap. It's cool and fun but eventually I'll have to do something with it all! It's very ass-backwards feeling.

Your reno looks like it will be awesome! I'm planning to hire out the shell work as well just for time sakes. We'll see. You'll get there, man! No worries!
How did the panel installation go? I'm glad I had help from an electrician friend when I upgraded my service. You need great big [email protected] [email protected] hooking up some of that stuff if you've never done it before. I let him do most of the work and I spent my time hammering in the additional grounding rod into the ground and doing what I was told. I didn't complain.

Well, if you're looking for projects, you could spend a few weeks constructing jigs.

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post #224 of 314 Old 04-17-2015, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
Our plan for that is here:

<PIC REMOVED>

I already removed the wall between the kitchen and living room now- I did that a few years back. The rooms are just too small. It really opened up the house. So the plan is to do the same on the other side of the stairs where I scribbled in RED color- basically creating an open floor plan around the stairs.
Overall, very nice plan Mike. One question though: did you consult an engineer before removing that wall? That wall screams load bearing to me!
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post #225 of 314 Old 04-17-2015, 04:54 PM
 
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Overall, very nice plan Mike. One question though: did you consult an engineer before removing that wall? That wall screams load bearing to me!
Nope. I just cut. That is how I roll.

I have a steel beam in the basement in the center, I just used (4) 2x12 glued and screwed. I was going to use 3 but I figured why not. I added some beef to the edges where they connect too. Most of the contractors seemed to think it was fine. The span is short (~15 feet) which helps a lot with the strength. I used one of those online calculators I remember and then overshot the recommendation just to be sure. It's cheaper to buy another 2x12 than pay an engineer.

But the new roof is going to be built with trusses and should load bear on the outer walls, the room above is the master bedroom and would not have significant weight to it either.

I'm more worried about the theater - which is second floor and spans 26 feet wide. For that I will need engineered lumber- and I plan to close up the spaces and sister the first few so I can use sand in my front stage.
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post #226 of 314 Old 04-17-2015, 04:56 PM
 
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Pics or it didn't happen on the panel DTS
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post #227 of 314 Old 04-17-2015, 08:48 PM - Thread Starter
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How did the panel installation go? I'm glad I had help from an electrician friend when I upgraded my service. You need great big [email protected] [email protected] hooking up some of that stuff if you've never done it before.


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Pics or it didn't happen on the panel DTS

Hey! Here you go, fellas! It took 3 hours for the power co. to get back out here and hook me up to the overhead again (he just left), but it turned out sweet! This was my first time. Working with 4/0 service entrance cable is a major PAIN! That stuff is nuts. I started at around 10:00 this morning and finished up around 7:00 tonight. I took my time and put some effort into cleaning up the existing mess.

Before:


After!

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post #228 of 314 Old 04-17-2015, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
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post #229 of 314 Old 04-18-2015, 06:05 AM
 
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Next will be adding in a 100 amp breaker and running the line to the garage!
What gauge for the line ? 1/0 ?
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post #230 of 314 Old 04-18-2015, 07:03 AM - Thread Starter
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What gauge for the line ? 1/0 ?
The inspector said 1/0 but the master electrician at HD said 2/0. I'm going to ask a different inspection agency and go from there.
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post #231 of 314 Old 04-18-2015, 08:49 AM
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The inspector said 1/0 but the master electrician at HD said 2/0. I'm going to ask a different inspection agency and go from there.
This page might be helpful.
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post #232 of 314 Old 04-20-2015, 06:44 AM - Thread Starter
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This page might be helpful.

Thanks! I've looked through some of that. I am trying to find access to full versions of the code online somewhere.

Either way, the inspector is coming today.
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post #233 of 314 Old 04-20-2015, 06:45 AM - Thread Starter
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I like the color of your siding. Wife and I are leaning towards a grey too, with white windows and pediments.
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post #235 of 314 Old 04-20-2015, 08:09 AM
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@Mfusick - That's a heck of a mud room in your plan. You could add a half bath or office at the back and still have a large mud room.
@dtsdig - You guys have some funny wiring up there. I can't say that I've ever seen a main use sealtite conduit. What's the antenna beside the meter? How about the transformer inside by the panel?
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post #236 of 314 Old 04-20-2015, 08:27 AM - Thread Starter
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I like the color of your siding. Wife and I are leaning towards a grey too, with white windows and pediments.
Thanks! We had it sided and had a new roof put on two summers ago. The color is a slate blue, it looks a bit more blueish in real life.
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post #237 of 314 Old 04-20-2015, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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@dtsdig - You guys have some funny wiring up there. I can't say that I've ever seen a main use sealtite conduit. What's the antenna beside the meter? How about the transformer inside by the panel?
That's not conduit, that is 4/0 SE cable. Maybe the pic is not very clear.
The antenna is just a digital TV antenna, I don't pay for cable.
The little transformer hanging off the side of the panel is a step-down transformer for our doorbell. It kind of threw me a bit when I was transferring everything over figuring out what it was for. I'm actually surprised that the previous electrician hooked it up the way he did. It's actually just tapped into a breaker for my dishwasher.
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post #238 of 314 Old 04-20-2015, 08:50 AM
 
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@Mfusick - That's a heck of a mud room in your plan. You could add a half bath or office at the back and still have a large mud room.
It's two story. The plan is for my wife to set up her photography and backdrops in the second level up the stairs.

The long term plan will be expanding my kitchen, doing a pantry, and some additional storage with some of the space in the future when I can afford it. The wall between the kitchen and mud room and coming down and I am have the floors even height. There is also some coat closets, a big stair case and some other stuff that eats up the space pretty quick.
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post #239 of 314 Old 04-20-2015, 09:12 AM
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UPDATE 3/2/15: I purchased a Grizzly G0691 saw. Thanks for the help with my decision!

Original thread starter:
Hey guys, my wife and I had some good conversation about my future career plans yesterday and have made it possible to finally purchase a table saw. I absolutely love my Makita track saw and will continue to use it, but for maximum efficiency/accuracy for multiple larger projects, a nice cabinet saw is in order.
Any furniture maker semi-pros around here? What models should I be looking at in the $1500 range? Jet, Grizzly, Rikon, Powermatic, Sawstop, Porter Cable?
As an aside, I love banter on the few tool threads that have popped up on here in the last couple of years, but I want to keep this thread focused and on topic. I will be purchasing this week. Thanks fellas!
I own a manufacturing company. I read the thread a little but I did not read into it so please excuse me if I repeat things others have said. I own 2 Delta table saws, one German sliding table saw, a Straight line rip saw and a Nested CNC router among other things.
For a home/garage shop a cabinet saw can be limiting. If you are planing on sawing sheet goods you really need outfeed tables that will support the sheet (massive) and even with that cutting a sheet of plywood accurately is art. It can not be done well by someone who does not do it frequently. A cabinet saw is good for rough ripping of hardwood and other hardwood operations. Both of my Delta cabinet saws have power feeders on them. Without a power feeder it is dangerous in my opinion.

If you must have a cabinet saw I would get a Saw Stop saw but it blows the budget away. If you are cutting sheet goods stick with a saw track system. I do not own any so I will not comment on which is best. I am partial to Festool tools in general. If I was shopping for a saw track that is where I would start. BUT I am not motivated by cost. I would buy the best one I could get. We wear things out. I throw out standard miter saws over time. Our good miter saws are several thousand dollars and weigh 300 pounds.

You can get a Delta table saw for around $500 if you purchase it on a professional woodworking auction site. People are dumping them, they are antiquated.

I am not sure if this link will hold up over time but here are dozens that have sold and are for sale. Be aware most are three phase. You can get a static phase converter and it works fine. You lose some HP but that is fine also.

http://www.irsauctions.com/index_sea...nd=50&srch=190

So knowing what I know. I would get the best saw track system I could get and very good table top table saw.

For you tool junkies here is the sliding table saw we use.
http://www.martin-usa.com/products/t70/

Here is the miter saws I was talking about.
http://hoffmann-usa.com/machinery/om...sion-miter-saw

We set the sliding saw with a caliper. It holds +/- .004" easily over 8 feet.

T6

Clearwave 4TSE and 4CC build thread
https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post19489740
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post #240 of 314 Old 04-20-2015, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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@t6902wf Thanks for the info. Yes, you missed a lot of conversation in this thread. A few things to note: I went with a 3HP Grizzly G0691 cabinet saw and added the 37" outfeed roller system to it which will serve my purposes for now. I also own a Makita SP6000J1 track saw system with 2-55" tracks for breaking down sheet goods. Up until buying the table saw, I have been doing projects with the track saw by itself and it has been excellent. For 100 pound sheets of MDF or whatever else, I will continue to use the track saw on the saw horse table I built and then do the rest of the cuts on the TS.

The saws you linked to are pretty awesome! I don't see myself ever having use for anything crazier than what I am buying now, and certainly not for "garage shop" use, but it's cool stuff nonetheless.
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