$1500 to Spend- Table Saw Recommendations...GO! - Page 9 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #241 of 314 Old 04-20-2015, 10:25 AM
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It's two story. The plan is for my wife to set up her photography and backdrops in the second level up the stairs.

The long term plan will be expanding my kitchen, doing a pantry, and some additional storage with some of the space in the future when I can afford it. The wall between the kitchen and mud room and coming down and I am have the floors even height. There is also some coat closets, a big stair case and some other stuff that eats up the space pretty quick.
Good deal, you're on top of it. I had this vision in my head of a large open mud room that just collects shoes/coats/everything. From experience, general prupose rooms collect everything well, but defined rooms actually serve a purpose other than chaos.
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post #242 of 314 Old 04-20-2015, 10:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Good deal, you're on top of it. I had this vision in my head of a large open mud room that just collects shoes/coats/everything. From experience, general prupose rooms collect everything well, but defined rooms actually serve a purpose other than chaos.
John, you're forgetting something. @Mfusick has 2 wee children, a boy and a girl. This means that ultimately, every single room in the house will be described/defined as chaos, eventually! LOL
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post #243 of 314 Old 04-20-2015, 08:31 PM - Thread Starter
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On another note completely, the new Makita sanders I bought are awesome! I can't believe how different the orbital behaves compared to my old crappy porter cable.
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post #244 of 314 Old 04-21-2015, 04:16 AM
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I own a manufacturing company. I read the thread a little but I did not read into it so please excuse me if I repeat things others have said. I own 2 Delta table saws, one German sliding table saw, a Straight line rip saw and a Nested CNC router among other things.
For a home/garage shop a cabinet saw can be limiting. If you are planing on sawing sheet goods you really need outfeed tables that will support the sheet (massive) and even with that cutting a sheet of plywood accurately is art. It can not be done well by someone who does not do it frequently. A cabinet saw is good for rough ripping of hardwood and other hardwood operations. Both of my Delta cabinet saws have power feeders on them. Without a power feeder it is dangerous in my opinion.

If you must have a cabinet saw I would get a Saw Stop saw but it blows the budget away. If you are cutting sheet goods stick with a saw track system. I do not own any so I will not comment on which is best. I am partial to Festool tools in general. If I was shopping for a saw track that is where I would start. BUT I am not motivated by cost. I would buy the best one I could get. We wear things out. I throw out standard miter saws over time. Our good miter saws are several thousand dollars and weigh 300 pounds.

You can get a Delta table saw for around $500 if you purchase it on a professional woodworking auction site. People are dumping them, they are antiquated.

I am not sure if this link will hold up over time but here are dozens that have sold and are for sale. Be aware most are three phase. You can get a static phase converter and it works fine. You lose some HP but that is fine also.

http://www.irsauctions.com/index_sea...nd=50&srch=190

So knowing what I know. I would get the best saw track system I could get and very good table top table saw.

For you tool junkies here is the sliding table saw we use.
http://www.martin-usa.com/products/t70/

Here is the miter saws I was talking about.
http://hoffmann-usa.com/machinery/om...sion-miter-saw

We set the sliding saw with a caliper. It holds +/- .004" easily over 8 feet.

I work in a professional cabinet shop as well. Although, only part time. We have 3 Delta cabinet saws, and they are terrific! Ours are all 15-20 years old and still going strong with daily use. For miter saws, we use Dewalt, exclusively. We have one sliding Dewalt miter saw that is 25 years old and has seen daily use the entire time, and it is still going strong as well. We don't have any CNC machines because we pride ourselves on being a custom cabinet shop and not a cabinet factory.
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post #245 of 314 Old 04-21-2015, 06:06 AM
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We don't have any CNC machines because we pride ourselves on being a custom cabinet shop and not a cabinet factory.
Why do you use circular saws? If you were a real cabinet maker you would use a hand saw and planes.

I run a business, it is absolutely a factory. The goal of a business is to make money. I use the best tools available to make a superior product and make a profit to support my family and my employees family.

I am sure that when the circular saw came out there was "real cabinetmakers" that refused to use the new technology. I am also sure of what happened to their company.
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post #246 of 314 Old 04-21-2015, 08:05 PM
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Why do you use circular saws? If you were a real cabinet maker you would use a hand saw and planes.

I run a business, it is absolutely a factory. The goal of a business is to make money. I use the best tools available to make a superior product and make a profit to support my family and my employees family.

I am sure that when the circular saw came out there was "real cabinetmakers" that refused to use the new technology. I am also sure of what happened to their company.

cnc are great for sheet goods i almost pulled the trigger on one but i sat back on the decision posted on a few forums and such and they swayed me to buy a sliding table saw instead of the cnc so with the budget for the cnc i bought a 3hp dc , 16'' j/p ,24'' bandsaw , 10.5' sliding table saw . took about 4 hours but the slider is within .005 over 10' which is better then the cnc i was looking at. i looked at martin and altendorf too expensive for just a hobby plus i can cnc the table saw easily and its fun doing things like that, like i added power lift to the planer and a dro just need to cnc the rip fence, tilt and blade height

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post #247 of 314 Old 04-22-2015, 06:56 AM - Thread Starter
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post #248 of 314 Old 04-22-2015, 02:35 PM
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You can get a Delta table saw for around $500 if you purchase it on a professional woodworking auction site. People are dumping them, they are antiquated.
This is the second time this week I've read someone recommending irsauctions. Have you purchased from them? There's a couple of auctions within driving distance but the thing making me hesitate is that they require insurance (2,000,000) for anyone picking up something that can not be picked up by hand. I believe a table saw would fall into that category. Maybe it would be easier hiring an independent hauler than picking it up oneself. Does anyone have any opinions?
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post #249 of 314 Old 04-22-2015, 02:38 PM
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I always shake my head when I see that bandsaw. Very nice. =)
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post #250 of 314 Old 04-23-2015, 06:41 AM
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This is the second time this week I've read someone recommending irsauctions. Have you purchased from them? There's a couple of auctions within driving distance but the thing making me hesitate is that they require insurance (2,000,000) for anyone picking up something that can not be picked up by hand. I believe a table saw would fall into that category. Maybe it would be easier hiring an independent hauler than picking it up oneself. Does anyone have any opinions?
I have bought quite a bit from them at auction. Each auction is different. You can ask questions on an item on the web site. I would ask if loading is available. If it is a surplus item most shops will drop it in a pickup for nothing or $20. If it is a liquidation normally there will be riggers. A new delta saw is $3000 +/-. If you buy an old used one it is likely better than a new one. We have one that was made in the 70's. Only have ever had to replace the switch. We have one I bought new, had to replace the motor after a few years.

Every sale has a few riggers assigned to it. You can contact them and meet them there. They would load it on your truck for you for $30-100, if you were nice and accommodating it would be cheaper. They carry the insurance. The $2,000,000 is for people that want to send in their own people to disassemble a finishing line or large piece of equipment and load it themselves. Not a guy buying a small item. It is "as is where is". So no warranty is implied. If it is direct wired and hooked to dust colllection you have to pay the rigger to disconnect it.

BUT a Delta table saw is essentially a switch, a starter, 3 belts, motor and two arbor bearings. All can be repaired or replaced. Bearings are $30 each so you can make it essentially new for $60 if the rest is in order.

An unbelievable vendor is McMaster Carr. They have a website. They are not the cheapest but they have everything and I mean everything. It is an industrial supply house. One of my favorite vendors.

I hope my rambling helped, good luck!
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post #251 of 314 Old 04-24-2015, 11:29 AM
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I hope my rambling helped, good luck!
Much appreciated! I've always had a little soft spot for those delta unisaws. Especially 1950s models with the goose egg motor cover and old time switch. I see them on craigslist but typically they're priced too high or more rust than metal.

There are some good deals on these auction sites and I've been researching 3 phase rotary converters. You don't lose any HP and you can run multiple devices at once with the rotaries vs the solid state converters. Opens up the possibilities to a lot of well-built older machines that have fewer maintenance issues compared to single phase. I was weary of dealing with an industrial auction site but your comments have eliminated my worries. Of course now I'm looking at other 3 phase tools like jointers.
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post #252 of 314 Old 04-25-2015, 06:14 AM
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I have bought quite a bit from them at auction. Each auction is different. You can ask questions on an item on the web site. I would ask if loading is available. If it is a surplus item most shops will drop it in a pickup for nothing or $20. If it is a liquidation normally there will be riggers. A new delta saw is $3000 +/-. If you buy an old used one it is likely better than a new one. We have one that was made in the 70's. Only have ever had to replace the switch. We have one I bought new, had to replace the motor after a few years.

Every sale has a few riggers assigned to it. You can contact them and meet them there. They would load it on your truck for you for $30-100, if you were nice and accommodating it would be cheaper. They carry the insurance. The $2,000,000 is for people that want to send in their own people to disassemble a finishing line or large piece of equipment and load it themselves. Not a guy buying a small item. It is "as is where is". So no warranty is implied. If it is direct wired and hooked to dust colllection you have to pay the rigger to disconnect it.

BUT a Delta table saw is essentially a switch, a starter, 3 belts, motor and two arbor bearings. All can be repaired or replaced. Bearings are $30 each so you can make it essentially new for $60 if the rest is in order.

An unbelievable vendor is McMaster Carr. They have a website. They are not the cheapest but they have everything and I mean everything. It is an industrial supply house. One of my favorite vendors.

I hope my rambling helped, good luck!
I would love to be able to buy a new Delta or Grizzley cabinet saw, but, right now, this just isn't possible. (My wife finally graduated and will be working full time very soon, so I should be in a substantially better position, financially, by the end of the year).

Do you know of any websites that I might possibly be able to find a used Delta or Grizzley table saw?

On another note, I wonder how hard it would be to DIY a nice cabinet saw? As you said above, it's just a switch, a motor, belts, ect. Have any of you ever built a DIY table saw, or do you know of any kits that are available for this?
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post #253 of 314 Old 04-25-2015, 06:53 AM
 
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The fence system is really the heart and soul- you may consider craigslist and trying steal a rather decent and much more common contractor style saw - then adjusting it to cut well, replacing the fence, and adding a side extension to make it a panel saw.

You'd be surprised how huge an improvement you can make with a pro level fence system, and some blade alignment. $300 for fence. $300 for saw. $100 for extension. You'd have a pretty kick ass saw for $700. You would not want any longer.
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post #254 of 314 Old 04-25-2015, 03:13 PM
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late to the party, busy and too lazy to read . .
however for the $1500 budget, maybe this


Milwaukee 6480-20 3-1/4 Max HP 8 in. Panel Saw about $1300 plus


I have a full sheet panel saw, I have to store/cover it up well outside kind of a pain , garage not tall/organized enough, until
I come home with a few sheets to slice and dice- utter simplicity-load sheet-measure-cut
set up a stop for multiples
could I struggle with the table saw and rollers, circular saw, horses straight edges, and what not, maybe, and I've done all that, but as a get'er done option, priceless

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post #255 of 314 Old 04-26-2015, 07:55 AM
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The fence system is really the heart and soul- you may consider craigslist and trying steal a rather decent and much more common contractor style saw - then adjusting it to cut well, replacing the fence, and adding a side extension to make it a panel saw.

You'd be surprised how huge an improvement you can make with a pro level fence system, and some blade alignment. $300 for fence. $300 for saw. $100 for extension. You'd have a pretty kick ass saw for $700. You would not want any longer.
I actually have a decent 25" Black n Decker model BT2500 table saw right now. I would be all up for buying a $300 replacement fence, I am just unsure if anyone makes a replacement or aftermarket fence upgrade for my BT2500? I did some searching but couldn't find any thing, although, I haven't really delved into it much. What is an extension and do you know of any that would fit my Black n Decker BT2500?
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post #256 of 314 Old 04-26-2015, 08:07 AM
 
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Post a picture of your saw, I'll reccomend one. The other table saw thread had some pictures and stuff from when I upgraded mine.
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post #257 of 314 Old 04-27-2015, 04:08 AM
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Post a picture of your saw, I'll reccomend one. The other table saw thread had some pictures and stuff from when I upgraded mine.
How do I post the pictures from my iPhone 6 Plus?
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post #258 of 314 Old 04-27-2015, 06:09 AM
 
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Take a picture. Then on AVS click at the very bottom to go from the mobile site to the full site. Once on the full site click advanced reply which bring you to a full reply page. Scroll down under attachments and click to attach - navigate to the photo in your library and select it. Post.

Do only one picture at a time on iPhone because sometimes a second one overwrites the first.
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post #259 of 314 Old 04-28-2015, 05:01 PM
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post #260 of 314 Old 05-08-2015, 08:06 AM - Thread Starter
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I've made some (slow) progress on the garage towards making it more into a workshop, getting sections of walls cleared out each weekend.
Wednesday I bought the wire for the sub-panel feed and I have a newly cleared wall space where the panel will go. It will end up being an 80 amp feed and the 100 amp panel will be turned into a main lug panel. My options were to use a 100 amp breaker ($35) in my main house panel and then use 2/0-4 conductor SER cable at $3.30/ft ($132) and keep the sub panel as a 100 amp main breaker panel OR install an 80 amp breaker ($41) in my main house panel and use #2-4 conductor SER at $1.69/ft ($67.60) and remove the 100 main breaker in the sub panel turning it into a main lug panel. This is the option that the inspector suggested and I think it's a good one considering the cost difference and the fact that an 80 amp panel vs. the 100 amp panel will make no practical difference to me. More to come!
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post #261 of 314 Old 05-08-2015, 08:35 AM
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80 will be plenty. At one point I only had a 50amp service to my shop and ran a Plasma, compressor and 7" grinder all at the same time, with some welding thrown in for good measure. I never popped that breaker, suprisingly.
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post #262 of 314 Old 05-08-2015, 09:03 AM
 
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I agree. Just having enough 20 amp circuits is the main problem- but it's unlikely you'll run them all at the same time. Usually you one one or two tools at a time.
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post #263 of 314 Old 05-08-2015, 09:39 AM - Thread Starter
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I agree. Just having enough 20 amp circuits is the main problem- but it's unlikely you'll run them all at the same time. Usually you one one or two tools at a time.
I want to hit the ON switches on the jointer, planer, table saw, router table and band saw all at once and then toss small pieces of plywood around the garage and see what piece of equipment throws the board the farthest! Don't try this at home, kids!
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post #264 of 314 Old 05-08-2015, 01:59 PM
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I want to hit the ON switches on the jointer, planer, table saw, router table and band saw all at once and then toss small pieces of plywood around the garage and see what piece of equipment throws the board the farthest! Don't try this at home, kids!
I just want to see you hit the ON switches all at the same time. Accomplish that and the board mayhem will be a bonus.
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post #265 of 314 Old 05-08-2015, 02:07 PM - Thread Starter
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I just want to see you hit the ON switches all at the same time. Accomplish that and the board mayhem will be a bonus.
I might need some helpers! Who's in???
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post #266 of 314 Old 06-10-2015, 07:10 AM - Thread Starter
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I do have some progress to report here, finally! I have the garage side of the sub-panel wired. Tonight I should be able to string the wire across my basement crawl space and get it installed in my main breaker panel. The long term wiring of outlets in the garage and the "shop" layout is still a long ways down the road, but in the meantime, I'm going to get myself hooked up with one 20 amp 110v outlet and one 220v outlet along the wall that the sub-panel is on. That way I can at least use the table saw or band saw for the first time!

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post #267 of 314 Old 06-10-2015, 09:19 AM
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Get it on! Looks great.

I actually enjoy wiring. I've thought about becoming an electrician, but at this point I don't want to take a pay cut to apprentice.
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post #268 of 314 Old 06-10-2015, 09:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Get it on! Looks great.

I actually enjoy wiring. I've thought about becoming an electrician, but at this point I don't want to take a pay cut to apprentice.
Thanks! I don't mind it either. Over the last two years, my understanding of residential wiring has grown immensely with the main breaker panel replacement (and the inspection sign-off) becoming a sort of "final test". I was educated in electronics and could troubleshoot my way through whatever complex circuitry was in front of me but for years those 3 wires used in house wiring were just baffling! lol

Quick question, and it is a noob question. Since all of the large power tools like the TS, the BS and the jointer come with 4-6' power cords, what do most folks do to get the power to the tools? For example, if the TS is going to be in the middle of the shop with 8' of open space all around it, how does one plug it into the wall?
I was thinking that I'll buy some SOOW rubber cord (10 gauge) and install a 220v male plug on one end and a 220v receptacle in a metal box on the other end and use it as a beefy extension cord that will run along the floor to the TS.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire...803A/202564780

Thoughts?
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post #269 of 314 Old 06-10-2015, 12:41 PM
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Thanks! I don't mind it either. Over the last two years, my understanding of residential wiring has grown immensely with the main breaker panel replacement (and the inspection sign-off) becoming a sort of "final test". I was educated in electronics and could troubleshoot my way through whatever complex circuitry was in front of me but for years those 3 wires used in house wiring were just baffling! lol

Quick question, and it is a noob question. Since all of the large power tools like the TS, the BS and the jointer come with 4-6' power cords, what do most folks do to get the power to the tools? For example, if the TS is going to be in the middle of the shop with 8' of open space all around it, how does one plug it into the wall?
I was thinking that I'll buy some SOOW rubber cord (10 gauge) and install a 220v male plug on one end and a 220v receptacle in a metal box on the other end and use it as a beefy extension cord that will run along the floor to the TS.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire...803A/202564780

Thoughts?
That's about what I use. Mine is 50' and I originally made it for my welder, so once I started adding more 220v tools, I just used the 50 amp plug on all of them. I'll get you a pic this afternoon. There are a few design tricks to make it more durable IMO.

Last edited by JohnDean; 06-10-2015 at 12:46 PM.
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post #270 of 314 Old 06-10-2015, 12:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JohnDean View Post
That's about what I use. Mine is 50' and I originally made it for my welder, so once I started adding more 220v tools, I just used the 50 amp plug on all of them.
Thanks!
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