First ever build. Fusion 15 Sentinel V2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 52 Old 03-09-2015, 02:42 PM - Thread Starter
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First ever build. Fusion 15 Sentinel V2

Hello all. Thought I'd start this since I'm just about finished.

Dry fitting:


Popped for some clamps from HF. Grabbed some Titebond III and went to work:


Not meaning to, but a cursory "annoitment"


Found some Masonite/hardboard laying about and utilized Matt's XOver layout. Fudged it a bit a made it a bit bigger. Little did I know I screwed myself with the leads coming up short in places. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake:


All wired up. I was meaning to use terminal blocks, but the spacing didn't pan out...


... and the back:



The cabinet was dead simple to assemble. The crossover, not so much. I know my way around a soldering iron (from hard, volt-modding video cards way back), but this was another animal. Not bad, just a bit nerve-racking.

Didn't want to pop for a Forstner bit, so a went with a 2" hole saw and only went 1/8" deep. Followed with a spade bit for the central hole. Will remove the excess to flush mount the Neutrik connector.

Stuffed with Ultratouch. Not coincidentally, the 15" wide R13 perforations just matched the spacing between the horizontal bracing in this cabinet. Nice planning, Erich!

Finish will likely be Restore 4X, but I may hold off for a while until I give these a good run-in.

These will be done next weekend.

@desertdome ,

You and Greg are MORE than welcome to come for a listen, seeing as how hospitable you both were during the sub GTG! Should be simple to EQ with the NanoAVR.
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post #2 of 52 Old 03-09-2015, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Spankenstein View Post
Hello all. Thought I'd start this since I'm just about finished.

Test for photo linkage:



Help. What is the preferred method of including images in posts?
You need to put ?raw=1 after your dropbox link for it to show up correctly. However, the image is sized way to big for a normal webpage. You might consider reducing your images to about 1000 pixels wide.

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An alternative is to click the paperclip at the top of the thread message box and upload pictures from your computer. (these will forever stay with the thread on AVS). Then click Preview Post to see the thumbnail of the image. Right click the thumbnail and open in new tab. Cut and past the the new tab's url in between img tags.

When can I come over and listen to these?
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post #3 of 52 Old 03-09-2015, 03:41 PM
 
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If you use a PC click the advanced reply tab and get the full reply box. Then below the reply box use he attachment tool to attach your images. Once they are attached open them up in a new browser tab and copy the web url link of the picture and add [img] to beginning and [/img] after the links. It will embed the pictures at a proper size.
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post #4 of 52 Old 03-09-2015, 08:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the "tech support" fellas!

FIXED and UPDATED.
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post #5 of 52 Old 03-09-2015, 09:21 PM
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FYI the red part of the inductor wires isn't conductive so you might want to alter that part of the crossover. Solder onto the silver ends
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post #6 of 52 Old 03-09-2015, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niktak11 View Post
FYI the red part of the inductor wires isn't conductive so you might want to alter that part of the crossover. Solder onto the silver ends

Yep might not be a good connection unless you scraped the coating away before soldering. Also the closeness of the wire just above that is a little worrying. Potential short right there, nothing harmful if those do touch but it will bypass part of the crossover. Maybe a piece of electrical tape around one.
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post #7 of 52 Old 03-10-2015, 04:39 AM
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post #8 of 52 Old 03-10-2015, 05:14 AM
 
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Lol
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post #9 of 52 Old 03-10-2015, 09:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Well spotted, niktak11! I would have spent a long time chasing that down without that kind of input! Thank you VERY much!!!


Matt,


I'll pull out the desoldering wick and attempt to scratch through the varnish/enamel coating. Completely agree that the lines being too close for comfort. Funny you should mention that as my other has EVERY connection covered in electrical tape! looks similar to this:


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post #10 of 52 Old 03-10-2015, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Spankenstein View Post
Hello all. Thought I'd start this since I'm just about finished.
Awesome work Dr.

I am looking forward to reading your thoughts on these speakers. BTW, I have cut myself on each and everyone of my DIYSG builds...it is a good sign.
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post #11 of 52 Old 03-10-2015, 01:44 PM
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Will you be using this for your center channel as well? I too would love to hear your impressions as I am leaning towards the Sentinels for L/C/R. Would love to see pic of the Neutrik connector once mounted as well. Enjoying the build thread.
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post #12 of 52 Old 03-10-2015, 02:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, Larry! I will certainly let you know. Not sure how much my opinion is worth considering I'm coming from the opposite end of the spectrum (full Mirage omnipolar set-up) and not many other points of reference except HuskerOmaha's SHO-10s and desertdome's LS6s.


mrc,


Yes, that is the ultimate plan. For the time being, I will just run the L&R with a phantom center until I build an AT screen (lots of good info on the spandex DIY screens on the forum.) It's going to be hard to part with my 133", 2.8 gain, High Power screen though...
Yeah, the cheapskate in me won out on this one, but it will turn out quite well. In the spirit of compete disclosure, I needed a 7/8" hole to insert the Neutrik connector, but all I had was a 3/4" spade bit. Dremel to the rescue!!




I'll try and ad some more photos to the thread.


Dem boxes look hungry for some drivers...
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post #13 of 52 Old 03-11-2015, 06:43 AM
 
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careful with the stuffing, it can effect your port tune.

On this picture:




Is there a center piece missing ^ It looks like you can see through the center of the speak on terminal? Did you remove something?

Mine always looked solid:




You want them air tight.
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post #14 of 52 Old 03-11-2015, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
careful with the stuffing, it can effect your port tune.

On this picture:




Is there a center piece missing ^ It looks like you can see through the center of the speak on terminal? Did you remove something?

Mine always looked solid:




You want them air tight.
I think that's just the camera's flash showing the bottom inside surfaces and making it look weird.

I sure love flush mounted Speakon terminals!
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post #15 of 52 Old 03-11-2015, 07:29 AM - Thread Starter
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I appreciate you taking notice of potential issues.
Nothing was removed from the connector. It remains a sealed unit. Must be the illumination from the flash and a straight-on camera angle that make it look like you can see through it.


Good point about the stuffing. The bottom 6" of the cabinet are unlined. I'll ensure that there is no blocking of the ports, but Matt specifically suggested 2"-3" of dampening material.
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post #16 of 52 Old 03-11-2015, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
I think that's just the camera's flash showing the bottom inside surfaces and making it look weird.

I sure love flush mounted Speakon terminals!
What size Forstner bit for the Neutrik connector? 2"?

Something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Steelex-D1015-...stner+bit+2%22

and then:
7/8" spade bit for the center hole?
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post #17 of 52 Old 03-11-2015, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by mrc12973 View Post
What size Forstner bit for the Neutrik connector? 2"?

Something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Steelex-D1015-...stner+bit+2%22

and then:
7/8" spade bit for the center hole?
There is a Neutrik drawing available on their site but I believe it's a 2" for the outer diameter and then just under a 1" for the barrel. I used forstners for both.

EDIT: Yes, the drawing shows .929" as the barrel diameter. A 1" bit works nicely.
http://www.neutrik.us/zoolu-website/...Drawing+NL4MPR
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post #18 of 52 Old 03-11-2015, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Spankenstein View Post
Good point about the stuffing. The bottom 6" of the cabinet are unlined. I'll ensure that there is no blocking of the ports, but Matt specifically suggested 2"-3" of dampening material.

Yeah I think you have the correct amount in there, placed where it should be, in fact you could line the back all the way to the bottom if you wanted. Ports are short enough that the material there won't effect them.

I did find that in the enclosure port tuning did come in a littler lower then expected with the included ports, not related to damping. You can cut the ports down a little to around 3" long for a bit more output in the 50-70hz range. But I would try them out at full length before modifying the ports.
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post #19 of 52 Old 03-11-2015, 12:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah I think you have the correct amount in there, placed where it should be, in fact you could line the back all the way to the bottom if you wanted. Ports are short enough that the material there won't effect them.

Awesome! Good to know. It's not like I have a shortage of ultratouch now! (I'll likely use them for simple 1st reflection panels.)

Quote:
I did find that in the enclosure port tuning did come in a littler lower then expected with the included ports, not related to damping. You can cut the ports down a little to around 3" long for a bit more output in the 50-70hz range. But I would try them out at full length before modifying the ports.

Interesting... I'll check my in-room response before I go cutting on anything. My original plan was to build these sealed. Maybe I can "repurpose" those bar clamps to hold some material over the port holes to test. Would love to hear it's response completely sealed, not just with the bung plugs!
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post #20 of 52 Old 03-11-2015, 12:38 PM
 
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There is a Neutrik drawing available on their site but I believe it's a 2" for the outer diameter and then just under a 1" for the barrel. I used forstners for both.

EDIT: Yes, the drawing shows .929" as the barrel diameter. A 1" bit works nicely.
http://www.neutrik.us/zoolu-website/...Drawing+NL4MPR
This. I used a 7/8th and it was tight... hit is for a second with a small sanding drum in the drill. 1" is a tad too big, but works fine.

2" for the outer. I bought a RYOBI kit for $20 had a bunch of sizes in it at HD. I posted some pictures in my TD15M DNA360 active thread.
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post #21 of 52 Old 03-11-2015, 02:23 PM
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The correct size to use for a speakON connector is a 15/16" spade or forstner bit.
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post #22 of 52 Old 03-13-2015, 09:14 AM - Thread Starter
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ONE LIVES!


Couldn't wait any longer and just needed to prove to myself that this effort was going to pay off soon.




I had just hogged-out the extra material to flush mount the speakON connector. Then I tackled the mounting ridges. I was thinking they were a little shaggy to work as an air-tight seal, so a few days ago I thinned some Titebond with water and painted these ridges. Now that they are dry, fine sanded to a much smother finish.


Impatience got the best of me, so I grabbed a crossover (propped up on the center brace by a hand towel), hooked it to the rear connector (um, just realized-I don't have screws to secure these! What size screw do most use?) snatched my already merged WG/CD and the woofer and lugged the whole package inside.


It works! Hooray MONO... Didn't have time to measure. I will look at the 1 meter FR in the hopes that any crossover maladies will reveal themselves...
Sounds really nice. I was scared that these would have a piercing high-end, but they are comfortingly refined. IIRC, desertdome may have had some pre-release JTR Noesis speakers for his surrounds during an Omaha GTG. I happened to be seated directly next to one and it was ear-slpittting (and not in a good way, more like "an icepick in the cochlea" way. Right or wrong (crossover wiring notwithstanding) these are very clear, but not aggressive.


Sorry for the lack of pictures an updates. Life has a way of "getting in the way."


I'll try to crank these out this weekend (providing I can find screws to secure the speakON connectors) and post some graphs.


Should I use something more robust than the rope caulk I was planning for the connector? Shouldn't be too big of a concern since the speaker is ported. no? Plus, I need some suggestions for the crossover mounting strategy. I guess I could screw to the center brace with a single stand-off, but this thing is big and almost sitting against the ports. Just want to make sure it wont move or shift against something or break a contact. Don't think industrial Velcro will span the distance between the ports and the crossover.

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post #23 of 52 Old 03-13-2015, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Spankenstein View Post
IIRC, desertdome may have had some pre-release JTR Noesis speakers for his surrounds during an Omaha GTG. I happened to be seated directly next to one and it was ear-slpittting (and not in a good way, more like "an icepick in the cochlea" way.
Those were Bill Fitzmaurice Wedgehorn 6's as surrounds. I hadn't had a chance to EQ them yet for the GTG. They have some serious output on the high end. I actually shut them off at one point during the demo. I just replaced them with DIYSoundGroup Volt-6's.
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post #24 of 52 Old 03-13-2015, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Spankenstein View Post
Hello all. Thought I'd start this since I'm just about finished.

Found some Masonite/hardboard laying about and utilized Matt's XOver layout. Fudged it a bit a made it a bit bigger. Little did I know I screwed myself with the leads coming up short in places. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake:


R.
Does the air core and iron core match up to this picture?

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post #25 of 52 Old 03-13-2015, 07:49 PM - Thread Starter
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wvu80,

I would say, "yes". Though it may be closer than 4".



Took my first measurement a few moments ago. Looks like I might have something off.


When you unwrap the phase, it doesn't look too bad. But that fact that it is approx. 180° off through the CD bandwidth is concerning.
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post #26 of 52 Old 03-13-2015, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Spankenstein View Post
wvu80,
Took my first measurement a few moments ago. Looks like I might have something off.
When you unwrap the phase, it doesn't look too bad. But that fact that it is approx. 180° off through the CD bandwidth is concerning.
The CD has the polarity reversed.

Working on the next one...
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post #27 of 52 Old 03-14-2015, 11:20 AM - Thread Starter
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You were correct. The question is: why? The leads coming from the crossover were correct. Perhaps Erich had the colored caps on the spring connectors reversed? But it happened on the second cabinet, as well.

Anyhoo, here is what it looks like now:




Now for some STEREO action!
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post #28 of 52 Old 03-14-2015, 11:56 AM
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No pics for me Doc...
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post #29 of 52 Old 03-14-2015, 12:35 PM
 
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Pics are broken
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post #30 of 52 Old 03-14-2015, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Spankenstein View Post
wvu80,

I would say, "yes". Though it may be closer than 4".



Took my first measurement a few moments ago. Looks like I might have something off.


When you unwrap the phase, it doesn't look too bad. But that fact that it is approx. 180° off through the CD bandwidth is concerning.

There is a bit of phase rotation through the crossover due to the slopes used. I think everything looks roughly where it should be here is my outdoor measurement for reference:



If you reversed the polarity on the CD you should see a large notch in the frequency response centered around 1k.

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