"The Sublimator" An Infinity 1260w 18hz Tuned Offset Driver Folded Horn. - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
Sometimes HD has 3/4 ply on sale for special buy for $35 sheet. It's the pretty looking sanded furniture grade. That might work for you.

OSB can work just less pretty.
Osb for 11$ at hd

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post #32 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary147852 View Post
Osb for 11$ at hd

Keep in mind that this horn uses 1/2" ply and should be properly braced. That's a great deal for building this horn. You'll have less than $100 into the horn and driver.
That's the deal of the century!!
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post #33 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 09:35 AM
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just for reference a search on the site looking of OSB builds yielded a build from 2008 by CZ Eddie google him
He was reporting his sarisfaction/experiences wrt his sub build using OSB
YMMV

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post #34 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
Sometimes HD has 3/4 ply on sale for special buy for $35 sheet. It's the pretty looking sanded furniture grade. That might work for you.

OSB can work just less pretty.
I just purchased 3 sheets of this cabinet grade sanded ply yesterday for one of notnyt's dual 18 designs. Cost for 3 sheets was roughly $115.
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post #35 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 10:06 AM
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but the design is for 1/2"
there is plenty to be read about the virtues of 1/2 vs. 3/4 and if you search in the BF site there has been plenty of talk about "what about using 3/4"
all you have to do it change a few measurements
quality doesn't cost - it pays

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post #36 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 11:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
It does seem as though most of the more experienced bass heads are either from the Northeast or the West. I've looked at horn designs myself and they seem daunting, will you have someone assisting you with your build?
so do you want to assist each other with the builds?

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post #37 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 11:44 AM
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the more you share or disclose at any stage of development or actual build and implementation will probably get attention paid to it, you may not hear about it until it seems to be time for a pause and possible course correction
LTD02 did that when I posted a pic of a brace too close to the possible excursion of the UXL in my Lhorn build, it was a pm actually and he was right but I failed to mention is was a dry fit in the post , but the point is, folks here have a curiosity about what and how things work and then we want to know how to make it better . . . lather, rinse, repeat
so there is got a mightily knowledgeable enabled community here
Head first down the rabbit hole
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post #38 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary147852 View Post
so do you want to assist each other with the builds?
My son and I just finished breaking down my 3 sheets and we're about to get started on the cutlist. Tomorrow we will glue everything together. Now I would love to assist you with your horn. It would be my first ever experience. Do you have all the necessary tools? Drop me a pm if you would like my assistance.
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post #39 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 11:55 AM
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https://www.google.com/url?q=http://...tBoM_HJz8IeXJg


builders thread

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post #40 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 11:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
I found that thread. It's definitely got me looking into other lumber. so basically ply is the best option?

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post #41 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 12:34 PM
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think about the cost differential wrt using "better" 1/2 ply over the osb,
then look at that price difference wrt the cost of the overall project as a percentage
should seem relatively minor, kinda silly to not make the investment in a more quality build


.02


(this said by the guy who used a 20 year old sheet of 3/4" sturdyfloor GIVEN to him to build his fusion 15's cabs, which do happen to be sturdy enough)
but I have few years of making mistakes on you, but that wasn't one of them-LOL


you are going to use PL to glue and seal this, right?


Airtight as DJphatman over at the BF site uses as a mantra

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post #42 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
think about the cost differential wrt using "better" 1/2 ply over the osb,
then look at that price difference wrt the cost of the overall project as a percentage
should seem relatively minor, kinda silly to not make the investment in a more quality build


.02


(this said by the guy who used a 20 year old sheet of 3/4" sturdyfloor GIVEN to him to build his fusion 15's cabs, which do happen to be sturdy enough)
but I have few years of making mistakes on you, but that wasn't one of them-LOL


you are going to use PL to glue and seal this, right?


Airtight as DJphatman over at the BF site uses as a mantra
Yes I was planning on pl. However I've only ever seen it referenced as pl. And I'm sure If I go to lowes and tell them I'm looking for pl they're not going to know what I'm talking about.

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post #43 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 12:54 PM
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Pl premium. It will be by the paint in lowes. There are a lot of different pl options. Make sure to get premium. And not the fast grab premium. You'll want the extra time for adjustments.

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post #44 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 01:15 PM
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ALWAYS make a dry fit run first, complete blocking, stop blocks , clamping, extra guide lines for brads to stabilize


at 1/2' it is the clamping , PL and braces and waiting that will hold this sub most rigidly together

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post #45 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 01:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samps View Post
Pl premium. It will be by the paint in lowes. There are a lot of different pl options. Make sure to get premium. And not the fast grab premium. You'll want the extra time for adjustments.

Quote:
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ALWAYS make a dry fit run first, complete blocking, stop blocks , clamping, extra guide lines for brads to stabilize


at 1/2' it is the clamping , PL and braces and waiting that will hold this sub most rigidly together
should i also get a brad nailer?

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post #46 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 02:32 PM
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HF can prove adequate for this and other light duty

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post #47 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 03:01 PM
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so basically ply is the best option?
Baltic Birch ply, yes. Warning, it's not inexpensive.
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post #48 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 03:22 PM
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should i also get a brad nailer?
I would think so, unless you have lots of clamps. A brad nailer would surely speed up the process.
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post #49 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 04:38 PM - Thread Starter
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I would think so, unless you have lots of clamps. A brad nailer would surely speed up the process.
I have 3 harbor freight clamps. Click image for larger version

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post #50 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 04:59 PM
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a brad nailer will hold things in position while PL does its thing
but some pressure helps with stabilizing/assisting while the pl to digs in


I have no data or science to show if this really helps like that but a few 24" clamps could go a long way on this build, probably just my own insecurities/inexperieince talking


but brads won't pull panels together like a screw will, so that leaves a clamp to push and hold as positioned

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post #51 of 142 Old 04-11-2015, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
a brad nailer will hold things in position while PL does its thing
but some pressure helps with stabilizing/assisting while the pl to digs in


I have no data or science to show if this really helps like that but a few 24" clamps could go a long way on this build, probably just my own insecurities/inexperieince talking


but brads won't pull panels together like a screw will, so that leaves a clamp to push and hold as positioned

That's exactly what I do. Use the PL Premium and a brad nailer to make short work out of this build. Just clamp where you need a little more holding pressure until the PL sets up. Also don't wipe off the PL as it will smear and really make a mess. Let it set up and it will peel off easily with a putty knife.
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post #52 of 142 Old 04-12-2015, 04:10 AM
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I really want to try this (the original one). You don`t happen to have the measurments in metric also? I can convert it myself, but easier if you already have it, or can push a button in a program.
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post #53 of 142 Old 04-12-2015, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by gogothedodo View Post
I really want to try this (the original one). You don`t happen to have the measurments in metric also? I can convert it myself, but easier if you already have it, or can push a button in a program.

Sorry I built it all in inches. I would have to convert it all as well to make it metric.
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post #54 of 142 Old 04-12-2015, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary147852 View Post
I have 3 harbor freight clamps. Attachment 661266
I'd get at least 3 more. you can never have too many clamps and I'd say 6 at a minimum for a build like this. 24-36 inch ones
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post #55 of 142 Old 04-12-2015, 07:21 AM
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so basically ply is the best option?
Voidless ply is the best option. You don't want voids because sometimes there's knot in a void that shakes loose and will rattle at certain frequencies and there's not much you do to fix it.

The only voidless plys I've seen are baltic birch ($55 for a 5x5 sheet) and Arauco sanded pine from Mexico ($35 for a 4x8 sheet). The Arauco factory in Mexico burned down a few years ago and Arauco became pretty hard to find but I think it's making a comeback. Haven't seen any up here in Canada yet but hopefully it will be back soon. There are probably more voidless plys I haven't seen (Appleply?) but this stuff gets expensive.

Baltic birch is just as heavy as mdf (but several times stronger), Arauco is a good bit lighter and still a lot stronger than mdf. OSB is heavy like mdf and you have to watch out for pieces that aren't embedded properly, if there's a piece that's not completely glued in it could rattle at certain frequencies. And it's really tough to finish nicely, but not impossible if you aren't too picky. My buddy made these and just painted them with black rust paint.



The problem with 1/2 inch ply (especially Arauco) is that it starts to twist and warp as soon as it's cut. It doesn't stay flat for long. So I wouldn't cut it until I was ready to glue it.

PL Premium (or any construction adhesive) is highly recommended since air leaks can kill a horn's potential and a lot of the horn will never be accessible to fix once it's glued together.

Nails or screws are up to you but they are not required if you have clamps. The can hold things in place but nails can't pull the pieces together or provide the clamping force required. It can be maddening trying to get the panels to stay where they are supposed to stay without screws or nails, but I never use screws or nails anymore, they are not required and it's usually better if you don't use them as long as you can control your panels. The construction adhesive makes everything squishy and slippery though so it's up to you.

Last edited by diy speaker guy; 04-12-2015 at 07:25 AM.
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post #56 of 142 Old 04-12-2015, 07:29 AM
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Also if you have access to a planer, OSB loses most of it's drawbacks and can be finished really nicely. A planer can make it really flat and you could even do a piano finish if you wanted to.

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post #57 of 142 Old 04-12-2015, 07:39 AM
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Looks pretty sharp, dsg. Something like Duratex would probably look pretty good as well.
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post #58 of 142 Old 04-12-2015, 07:50 AM
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Looks pretty sharp, dsg. Something like Duratex would probably look pretty good as well.
Oh I forgot to mention that bottom pic isn't mine, it's something a guy showed at Parts Express MWAF I think. Really just a pic I found on the internet. The top pic was built by my buddy but I have nothing at all to do with the bottom pic.
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post #59 of 142 Old 04-12-2015, 07:57 AM
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Also the prices I listed earlier for BB and Arauco were for 3/4 inch sheets not 1/2 and those prices might not even be relevant anymore - I haven't seen Arauco for sale in 4 years now.
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post #60 of 142 Old 04-12-2015, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary147852 View Post
I have 3 harbor freight clamps. Attachment 661266
I bought those same clamps you have in the picture from Harbor Freight and they became unusable after a few uses; they can only handle very minimal torque. I would get the bar style clamp like this http://www.harborfreight.com/36-inch...amp-96208.html They are very inexpensive but they are far superior than the style you have now. To be truthful, I would get as many clamps, in various different sizes as you can; you just never know what you're going to want to build next
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