"The Sublimator" An Infinity 1260w 18hz Tuned Offset Driver Folded Horn. - Page 5 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #121 of 142 Old 04-21-2015, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary147852 View Post
So for those who are interested in what the horn actually looks like, look no further, for may feast your eyes upon the horn tsloms designed.





[IMG]https://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/21/
6994c035d9d222fe0572521fdd580c18.jpg[/IMG]





Wow Gary, you plan to build that? I'd love to have a listen once you've completed the build.
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post #122 of 142 Old 04-21-2015, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes this what I'm building.

Vizio M501d-A2R(Calibrated), LG BD-330, Pioneer VSX-524-K, Custom DIY LCR Mains, DIY Sub ( Kicker 10c124, 2.25 ft3, 19 hz tune, powered by xm-sd46x(using only rear channel in bridge mode, 150watts), powered by 400w atx power supply.) Work in progress.
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post #123 of 142 Old 04-21-2015, 09:53 AM
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I thought it was beneficial to aim the horn mouth into the corner. Is that only for certain types of horns? Or is that just a compromise with this shape of a horn?
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post #124 of 142 Old 04-21-2015, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Samps View Post
I thought it was beneficial to aim the horn mouth into the corner. Is that only for certain types of horns? Or is that just a compromise with this shape of a horn?

I did have it turned both ways. In my room I preferred the sound when turned away from the wall.
Typically corner loading the horn will increase the horn length. This will allow the horn to perform like a longer horn and the corner loading will also give more gain.
The amp I used had a built in 18hz anyways so I couldn't use the lower frequencies and the horn already outperformed those little mini ewaves. Yup that is an 8" eminence woofer in that speaker. Looks pretty small from that angle.
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post #125 of 142 Old 04-21-2015, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by diy speaker guy View Post
"Data sheets" are here - http://www.huberwood.com/technical-l...tech-advantech

But they look more like marketing pamphlets. There's a couple of bar graphs showing a couple things but it's not really a data sheet.
Interesting. The local lumber yard carries this. I thought it was just OSB, but after seeing the Strength and Stiffness charts I might go check it out. Plus no added urea formaldehyde or VOC constituents.

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post #126 of 142 Old 04-21-2015, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Clarence View Post
Interesting. The local lumber yard carries this. I thought it was just OSB, but after seeing the Strength and Stiffness charts I might go check it out. Plus no added urea formaldehyde or VOC constituents.
I'd take that chart with a grain of salt. I'm not sure bending stiffness and bending strength are actual units that can be compared to modulus of elasticity and regular stiffness specs.

Also they probably picked the cheapest plywood they could find to compare to. That chart looks like marketing, not data.

Also this stuff is really expensive. Personally I'd go with Arauco plywood instead (if I could find it) but I've never seen this stuff so I can't really say that much about it.
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post #127 of 142 Old 04-21-2015, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by diy speaker guy View Post
I'd take that chart with a grain of salt. I'm not sure bending stiffness and bending strength are actual units that can be compared to modulus of elasticity and regular stiffness specs.

Also they probably picked the cheapest plywood they could find to compare to. That chart looks like marketing, not data.

Also this stuff is really expensive. Personally I'd go with Arauco plywood instead (if I could find it) but I've never seen this stuff so I can't really say that much about it.
The arauco ply is what I used in my build and for several speaker builds I've done. It's cheaper than birch and is typically a very good quality. Flat and minimal voids.
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post #128 of 142 Old 04-21-2015, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by diy speaker guy View Post
Also this stuff is really expensive. Personally I'd go with Arauco plywood instead (if I could find it) but I've never seen this stuff so I can't really say that much about it.
Advantech is less expensive than the best plywood available at the nearest HD (crappy 5-ply oak veneer). And the lumber yard that carries it is a mile away, HD is 20 miles.

The home construction forums seem to love Advantech, at least for walls, roofing, and subfloors. I haven't found a negative statement yet...


http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/s...SB-vs.-Plywood
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Advantek is my flooring of choice. Put a piece of it in a bucket of water for a week or two this should make a believer out of yiu or anyone else. Also check out the 50 year warranty

Advantek doesn't exhibit this problem of swelling. The panel maintains the same thickness after it gets wet and keeps the same density. What about the plywood delaminating? Doesn't that cause you problems? I really think if you give Advantek a try you will also sing its praise.

Advantec or Comply is the material of choice. They are virtually impervious to water. I no longer use regular T&G.
As a side note, the builder is not saving any money or pulling a fast one, this stuff is not cheap. It does go together better making a happy crew.

I think it is better than sturdi floor, it's so good i used in muy own home.

Advantec by Huber and Comply by Jeld-Wen, are both good subfloor material designed to resist damage, delaminating and swelling from exposure to water.

advantek is superior than ply in many respects. I did not have any problems with delaminating even though we get a bitch of a winter.

The difference between commodity grade T&G OSB and AdvanTech is type of resin used in the OSB manufacturing process. Commodity grade T&G OSB is made using phenol formaldehyde resins (purple in color) to bind together the surface strands. AdvanTech utlizes an isocyante (polyurethanes) resin to bind the surface strands - hence the superior product.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-t...ctor-guys.html
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BTW, the Advantech is around $19/sheet vs 3/4" plywood at $22/sheet, so price isn't an issue.

I helped build a house with Advantech, if you need t&g it is superior. Go look at a stack of CDX plywood at your local lumberyard, try to find a flat sheet. Then imagine how much fun it will be to line up two warped sheets of plywood. Advantech is nice and flat.

the contractors on various forums rave about advantech, but most of the praise is over the ability for the product to get wet and not swell

3/4 " Advantech for the win.
http://www.bobvila.com/articles/526-...loor-products/
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Products like AdvanTech, an OSB product by Huber Engineered Woods, were brought onto the scene to meet the need for moisture-resistant OSB. Essentially an enhanced OSB material, AdvanTech uses a resin integrated with the wood to resist water absorption and reduce the swelling that plagued the original OSB subflooring. Huber even offers a 50-year warranty on AdvanTech.
http://bethepro.com/forums/topic/plywood-vs-osb/
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100% of the time we use AdvanTech for floor sheathing. In fact, I won’t build with another product.

advantech for floors, gold edge is the standard for most, we use 3/4 ply for a few reasons,, no swelling better holding power for hardwood staples, ring nails hold better for underlay in tiled areas

Advantec makes a great floor.

Advantec is a treated 3/4 T&G OSB that is used for a sub floor. It is treated with a process that allows it to be exposed in the elements from a few months to a year. But it will not warp, or swell. If you need a subfloor product, you would be foolish not to use.

http://www.contractortalk.com/f3/ply...or-osb-106177/
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Advantech is far superior to plywood and typical OSB as far as flatness and weather resistance are concerned.

Also agree with Lone...Advantech is awesome subfloor!

Advantech is hands down amazing.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...h-75395-2.html
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I had some floor repair to do and went with Advantech. 3/4 sheet was $22, but it wasn't the price that made my decision. My brother has built many homes over the years and this is all he will use in his subflooring. You can literally put it in a pool for a year and it wont change shape or size. Why would you want to buy high end plywood then add a bunch of sealants to it? Why not just buy a product that has everything you need in it already.

Just thought I would respond to the comments on Advantech for flooring. I suspect that some may have confused Advantech for ordinary Oriented Strand Board (OSB). There is a world of difference in the production of the two. Advantech specifications for strength and water resistance make it far superior to commodity OSB and plywood.

I build houses and love advantech for my work. We sank a peice into the lake for 6 months and could have used it on a home.

Q. Can I paint AdvanTech subflooring and sheathing panels?
AdvanTech panels can be left natural, stained, varnished or painted with oil or epoxy based paints or oil based primer and latex paint.

Plywood and OSB aren’t your only options. Our buddy Todd over at Home Construction Improvement swears by Advantech Sheathing, a next-generation surface that resists moisture much better than either plywood or OSB. He built his whole house with it!

Advantech is so prevalent here, I've never seen another new build with anything but in a stick built house. Granted, most houses I see are on the higher end. We build all of our houses with 3/4" Advantech with 16" OC TJI's and it really feels like an elephant could walk across it.
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...h-for-Cabinets
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I have checked the web for data on the acoustic characteristics of Advantech vs. MDF, but find very little conclusive. I wonder if anyone has experience using Advantech and a sense of the comparative acoustic characteristics of it and MDF

Believe it or not, after all the scientific tests on every aspect of building speakers, it all comes down to the old "knuckle rap" test. Take 2 boxes, one of mdf and the other of plywood or whatever, and rap with your knuckle. You want a higher and softer ring. Add braces until you are satisfied, and you're done.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...-vs-mdf-2.html
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I replaced my subfloor in my house leveling the floors for hardwood this winter. Researched for the best sub-flooring and found Advantech.
It's a resin impregnated osb-type flooring. But don't think OSB. It's 40% stronger/stiffer than plywood, extremely dense, at 75# per 4x8 sheet, and extremely resistent to warping. Best part is that the high resin content makes it extremely water resistant. Extremely flat and stable. After leveling the joists and installing 3/4 Advantech, if we every Build another house, that'll be my flooring.
A contractor I know said he has scraps that have been in the weather outside his shop for years that look like new. I've got some scaps that have been outside for 3 months and I wouldn't hesitate to use them for anything.
It's sanded both sides, so very smooth for a glue edge and easy to cut. Same cost as good plywood. Would take screws much better than MDF. Makes great Speaker baffles also.

Yeah, give the Advantech a look see. I was sold on it.

For the floor, I used the PL premium construction adhesive. That stuff is amazing too once it dries, the joint isn't coming apart. You can split the wood around it, but the bond isn't breaking. Probably overkill, but I've got 5 large tubes left, so I'll probably try some for a box.

Advantech is very smooth. We walked on it for about a month while getting the hardwood down on bare feet (Kentucky ) and you can slide on it. It's not quite as smooth as MDF, but much smoother than osb.
Strength test:
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post #129 of 142 Old 04-22-2015, 02:55 AM
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I have been remodeling my kitchen and am building a granite tile countertop now that I have my cabinets and doors finished, (both of which I did myself). On the counter top I used the Advantek stuff on the bottom layer, and boy is this stuff heavy, and extremely stiff, perhaps even stiffer than MDF. I have had MDF bow on me in the past, and with even the tiniest drop of water it turns to crap. The Advantek is absolutely 100% impervious to water. I love this stuff and will use it for my all of my future LCR and sub builds that will be going behind a screen and not seen.

I highly recommend that you guys try this stuff! I paid $24 per sheet at Lowes (or maybe it was Home Depot? Can't quite recall, lol) for 3/4"!
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post #130 of 142 Old 01-26-2020, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary147852 View Post
So with what seems like every other thread in the diy section being either a sub or a sub horn thread I, being the very impressionable person that I am, also wanted to fit in and reap the benefits of horn loading a sub and corner loading a horn.

I should first give a MAJOR shout out to @tsloms . His patience and helpfulness have been paramount in the possibility of this project.

Here is a layout of the horn design.





Here is a cutlist of the horn.



These posted are original designs done by @tsloms himself.

My horn had to be modified slightly, (thankfully without any noticeable changes in performance). The original plans call for 84 inches in height. I only have 83 inches from floor to ceiling.

Originally I planned to take 1 inch from the driver enclosure to meet the 83 inch maximum, but then I remembered my geometry skills and came to the realization that it was too tall from corner to corner(from bottom right to top left corner) to be stood up once brought inside.

After shortening the horn 2.5 inches (1 inch from the driver enclosure, and 1.5 inches from the mouth. We end up with a horn that is 81.5 inches in height and 83 1/16 inches from corner to corner, which can now be allowed to be stood up in proper orientation in the corner with minimal damage to the ceiling.

Here is the frequency response graph.



As well as impedance and phase graphs.



Hi guys, I'm trying to locate the cut list on this build (I built one before but lost plans)

Can someone send to me since it doesn't appear to be a link on this. Thanks!!!

Longdrive03
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post #131 of 142 Old 01-26-2020, 07:58 PM
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I've shot you a PM to send me your email address. Let me know and I'll get them sent out for you.

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post #132 of 142 Old 01-27-2020, 06:35 AM
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Whatever happened to this build anyway Seemed like Gary was all fired up to build it.

Automation: Alexa- Harmony Hub- Wemo Dimmer Switch- Wemo Smart Plug BatCave: SY Triple Black
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post #133 of 142 Old 01-27-2020, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
Whatever happened to this build anyway Seemed like Gary was all fired up to build it.


Looks like he hasn’t logged in since 2016, so I doubt answers are forthcoming from him.

Chris
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post #134 of 142 Old 03-21-2020, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by longdrive03 View Post
Hi guys, I'm trying to locate the cut list on this build (I built one before but lost plans)

Can someone send to me since it doesn't appear to be a link on this. Thanks!!!

Longdrive03
hi there


here ronald from holland....[other side of the globe]

i found this site because i was looking for the horn-sub wich i really would like to build
asamatteroffact i want to build two..... stereo sub

i hope it is not to rude to ask for a cutting list too...??

frendly greetings
ro
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post #135 of 142 Old 03-21-2020, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Ronald Duivenvoorden View Post
hi there


here ronald from holland....[other side of the globe]

i found this site because i was looking for the horn-sub wich i really would like to build
asamatteroffact i want to build two..... stereo sub

i hope it is not to rude to ask for a cutting list too...??

frendly greetings
ro
@tsloms may have one for you.

Chris
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post #136 of 142 Old 03-21-2020, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronald Duivenvoorden View Post
hi there





here ronald from holland....[other side of the globe]



i found this site because i was looking for the horn-sub wich i really would like to build

asamatteroffact i want to build two..... stereo sub



i hope it is not to rude to ask for a cutting list too...??



frendly greetings

ro
Send me a PM with your email address and I'll get the complete plans send out for you.

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post #137 of 142 Old 03-21-2020, 06:24 PM
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@tsloms may have one for you.
Beat me to it.
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Audio: 5.2.4 Marantz SR7011- (LCR) QSC 2180 - (Surrounds) (4) BIC FH6-LCR- (Atmos) (4) Dayton Audio B652 6-1/2-Inch- (Subs)2 23ishcuft ported HS24s 14-15Hz tune - 2 Devastator Minis B&C21ds115 - 4 PA460 in ported cabs 40Hz tune- FP20000Q- 2 Sanway FP10000Q- Crown XLS1500- . To be continued...
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post #138 of 142 Old 03-22-2020, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by tsloms View Post
Send me a PM with your email address and I'll get the complete plans send out for you.

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hi there

i have tried the pm, it didnt work , i have not enough posts.......

is there another way ?

frendly greetings ro
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post #139 of 142 Old 03-22-2020, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronald Duivenvoorden View Post
hi there



i have tried the pm, it didnt work , i have not enough posts.......



is there another way ?



frendly greetings ro
I've sent you a PM. See if you can respond to that please. If not reply back in this forum with your email.

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post #140 of 142 Old 03-23-2020, 01:41 PM
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I've sent you a PM. See if you can respond to that please. If not reply back in this forum with your email.

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hi tsloms

nothing hapening there, so here is my adress... rojo4242 att gmail.com

i have bought the multiplex okoume 2cm sheets
and one 4cm thick for the speakers and the plate in front of the speaker
also some trespa for stability
and the plann is to use a couple zero ohm trafo`s for filtering

of course i will send some foto`s

lots o greetings from holland
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post #141 of 142 Old 03-23-2020, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronald Duivenvoorden View Post
hi tsloms



nothing hapening there, so here is my adress... rojo4242 att gmail.com



i have bought the multiplex okoume 2cm sheets

and one 4cm thick for the speakers and the plate in front of the speaker

also some trespa for stability

and the plann is to use a couple zero ohm trafo`s for filtering



of course i will send some foto`s



lots o greetings from holland
I've sent an email to rojo4242 at gmail.com but it was rejected. If that email is not correct please let me know.

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post #142 of 142 Old 03-24-2020, 04:47 AM
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Excuse rhe adress is [email protected] com... Thx
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