Gjhallerhorn v2 or Submaximus for pair of Uxl's - Page 4 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #91 of 248 Old 07-02-2016, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
it is a bit of an optical illusion ....................
Well thats great to hear. Nice to see it can be placed right into the corner with this other mouth option.
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post #92 of 248 Old 07-03-2016, 07:15 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

@Fattykidd
placing the horns on the front wall aimed at each other will create a virtual wall down the center of the room (much like two horns side-by-side).
Even if they are 6ft apart ?
So is it theoretically better to flip them around and aim them at the outer side walls?
36" is a little too deep to fit behind my at screen so i was gonna turn them sideways .
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post #93 of 248 Old 07-04-2016, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Fattykidd View Post
Even if they are 6ft apart ?
So is it theoretically better to flip them around and aim them at the outer side walls?
36" is a little too deep to fit behind my at screen so i was gonna turn them sideways .

not sure how the loading changes with precise position/distance with dual opposed firing horns.

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post #94 of 248 Old 07-04-2016, 10:23 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Fair enough.. I'll give it all a try when the time comes.
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post #95 of 248 Old 07-14-2016, 11:29 PM
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I hate to ask, but can I utilize an eD 19O in this design? Does that driver lend to a horn design? Thanks for any help!

I am looking for more efficiency out of them. Thanks!
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post #96 of 248 Old 07-15-2016, 05:33 AM
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I hate to ask, but can I utilize an eD 19O in this design? Does that driver lend to a horn design? Thanks for any help!

I am looking for more efficiency out of them. Thanks!
Do you have a link to the T/S for this driver?
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post #97 of 248 Old 07-15-2016, 06:24 AM
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Duh! Yessir, I have published specs and measured.

Published -
Qts .369
Qes .37
Fs 26
Re 3.5
Vas 228
Mms 307.0
Bl 22.10t
Sd 1200
Xmax 22 mm

Measured -
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...ov-2-sale.html

I own D2's......

Thanks so much!!
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post #98 of 248 Old 07-15-2016, 07:00 AM
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Dont know the Xmax on these drivers. BUT they look ok in the design. They roll off just a tad before the UXL does and they have a bit of a dip that may be able to EQ out. SO what is the Xmax on these drivers?

If 20mm then they are doable if thats all you have. if less than that you can use them and buy a better driver later.
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post #99 of 248 Old 07-15-2016, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post
Dont know the Xmax on these drivers. BUT they look ok in the design. They roll off just a tad before the UXL does and they have a bit of a dip that may be able to EQ out. SO what is the Xmax on these drivers?

If 20mm then they are doable if thats all you have. if less than that you can use them and buy a better driver later.
It's well over 20mm. I appreciate you checking it out for me and am definitely gonna take the plunge!
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post #100 of 248 Old 07-15-2016, 08:25 AM
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Well it looks like they will work then.
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post #101 of 248 Old 07-15-2016, 08:53 AM
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well it looks like they will work then. :d
exxxxxcelllentttt
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post #102 of 248 Old 11-10-2016, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post








- the internal panels are 24" wide (slightly less from rip cutting won't matter)


- the "braces/brackets" showing the measurements are for the internal air space.


- good bracing is required.


- i'm not sure if the black diagonal deflector at 14/15 actually does anything other than serve as a brace.


- side panels are 36" x 80". best practice would be to draw the panel layout onto a side piece.


- the measurements will vary by a slight amount depending on the precise thickness of the wood panels ("three quarter inch plywood" in many cases is 23/32). that won't affect performance in any way, just be aware of it where you want the panels to line up just right (on the outside of the cab for example).


- try to get measurement 1 as close as possible to 3.23 inches. that measurement sets the "compression ratio", which for this horn is actually pretty low, so there is actually some wiggle room there. but still, if only one measurement on the entire horn is 'perfect', that should be it.


- a removable panel could be cut in the side for access to the driver if that is desired.


- this aspect of the design process actually required the most time/work. if somebody could double check these measurements, i'd appreciate it.
Hey LTD, is the black piece reference with the 14&15 measurements suppose to be solid piece from side to side?

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post #103 of 248 Old 11-10-2016, 01:51 PM
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that bracing needen't be a solid plank across the whole dimension,
it's not a "reflector" or air movement "enhancer"
I used some 3" wide plywood stirps with 45 degree cuts and 2 kregs screws per end, and lots of PL3, spacing was about 6" starting mol from end panel I, so iirc, 2 pieces

the mouth height of 18", the nearness of piece H and the double row of bracing between D and E more than synergistically add up to tons of rigidity overkill.

would you be using the Kreg system for building? 5" spacing measured out well for me

and the actual mouth bracing itself will add to all of that

ask me how i know . .

google this: Submaximus V3 for UXL 2016 Redux

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post #104 of 248 Old 11-10-2016, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
that bracing needen't be a solid plank across the whole dimension,
it's not a "reflector" or air movement "enhancer"
OK
Quote:
I used some 3" wide plywood stirps with 45 degree cuts and 2 kregs screws per end, and lots of PL3, spacing was about 6" starting mol from end panel I, so iirc, 2 pieces
the mouth height of 18", the nearness of piece H and the double row of bracing between D and E more than synergistically add up to tons of rigidity overkill.
would you be using the Kreg system for building? 5" spacing measured out well for me
and the actual mouth bracing itself will add to all of that
ask me how i know . .
Yes Kreg system

Quote:
google this: Submaximus V3 for UXL 2016 Redux
OH don't you worry I am fully aware of your thread LOL.... I have been following it since the beginning....I am helping @Fattykidd with his..... start this weekend if he gets organized LOL

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post #105 of 248 Old 11-10-2016, 02:16 PM
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^ well then you guys are going to have just one h3ll of a good time,

remember, double row of bracing for all panels,
even betweem D and E, most of my pieces about 12" ish long, cut from the strip left over from cutting the first 30 x 80 side.

and I've pm your buddy about planning ahead for the size of side 2 and the style of bracing directly in front of the driver

a 24" combo square from HF really helps in uniformity of depth when marking bracing placement lines

waiting for the thread . . .

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post #106 of 248 Old 11-10-2016, 02:26 PM
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Ya its going to be a fun one......
I asked @Fattykidd what we should do to make his better than yours he said........ make TWO

LMAO.... so two it is

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post #107 of 248 Old 11-10-2016, 02:55 PM
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That's even easier . . .

don't forget a movers dolly, modded, for placement ease, it's gonna weigh about 300#

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post #108 of 248 Old 11-10-2016, 03:02 PM
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That's even easier . . .

don't forget a movers dolly, modded, for placement ease, it's gonna weigh about 300#
Moving is not in my contract

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post #109 of 248 Old 11-10-2016, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Waterboy77 View Post
Hey LTD, is the black piece reference with the 14&15 measurements suppose to be solid piece from side to side?

yeah, the original concept was for a solid piece to run across the width of the cab.


however, it doesn't seem to make a difference whether it is done that way or just braced as usual.


you can see what wil (asarose) did in his and his measured pretty much dead on the hornresp model.


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post #110 of 248 Old 11-10-2016, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
yeah, the original concept was for a solid piece to run across the width of the cab.
however, it doesn't seem to make a difference whether it is done that way or just braced as usual.
you can see what wil (asarose) did in his and his measured pretty much dead on the hornresp model.
Thanks John!!

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post #111 of 248 Old 11-11-2016, 09:24 AM
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@Fattykidd and @Waterboy77 .
designed to prevent PL3 from sliding me off the line, especially knowing that kreg screws may (are likely to) generate small shifts, that 4 ft. aluminum angle was an addition to keep that from happening . .

I think that by having the having an additional a 2 ft length may allow for placement of both pieces that will let there some metal be at both ends of a panel.
a small clamp at each end , hitting all the panel placement marks will assure the panel going in straight, hits the marks, hasn't "kreg shifted" and will keep the proper panel spacing easier to achieve from top to bottom.

also, re check the dimensions you're cutting. John modeled using .75 thickness but my sanderply was only .709 .
there where minor variation to adjust for with regards for that thickness change in the turns and some internal panels lengths, but as he also noted, the primary dimension to nail is that 3.25 " in the throat, you know and have seen what I mean.
the rest as he put it, has some "wiggle room"

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post #112 of 248 Old 11-11-2016, 09:26 AM
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maybe that pic will post now

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post #113 of 248 Old 11-11-2016, 09:30 AM
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there it is . . .
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post #114 of 248 Old 11-11-2016, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
@Fattykidd and @Waterboy77 .
designed to prevent PL3 from sliding me off the line, especially knowing that kreg screws may (are likely to) generate small shifts, that 4 ft. aluminum angle was an addition to keep that from happening . .

I think that by having the having an additional a 2 ft length may allow for placement of both pieces that will let there some metal be at both ends of a panel.
a small clamp at each end , hitting all the panel placement marks will assure the panel going in straight, hits the marks, hasn't "kreg shifted" and will keep the proper panel spacing easier to achieve from top to bottom.

also, re check the dimensions you're cutting. John modeled using .75 thickness but my sanderply was only .709 .
there where minor variation to adjust for with regards for that thickness change in the turns and some internal panels lengths, but as he also noted, the primary dimension to nail is that 3.25 " in the throat, you know and have seen what I mean.
the rest as he put it, has some "wiggle room"
Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
there it is . . .
Thanks for the tips asarose247,
Yes Kreg creep can be a pain and I was thinking about a stopper with just some temporary ply (straight)
Did you leave the a angle piece in there or move as needed?

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post #115 of 248 Old 11-11-2016, 10:08 AM
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^ moved as needed

and yes, shooting a few brads into a wooden stop block set up,

I just liked the no hassle no compromise length

we all want smarter plays in our game book . . .
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post #116 of 248 Old 11-11-2016, 09:34 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Wood has been bought.. Sitting in the bed of my truck as I type. Man what a gongshow to get nice ply for a decent price in Calgary. Finally found some at Rona, 3/4" birch. It's not super high end but at $40 a sheet it's more than acceptable, actually even nicer than the $100 a sheet stuff I found at other stores. My wife was happy it's not 100# a sheet (like mdf) for loading into the truck..LOL.. She's a good sport though.
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post #117 of 248 Old 11-13-2016, 04:16 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Any more bracing needed? Besides the mouth of course.
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post #118 of 248 Old 11-13-2016, 04:43 PM
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so that's 2 brACES BEWTEEN THE BAFFLE AND panel B, in front of the driver

.02 a third one straight up between A and B but about 30-36" long to really tied them together, cenetered in front of the driver in both panels, running long
maybe about 6-8".up A past where it interesects G.

i realize the taper can be sorta challenging but LTD02 did ascribe achieved performance to "adequate +," bracing
what's that gonna take, 20-30 minutes and some spare ply?



looking at how neat and clean the joints are, almost scary

when we see the last side and how it fits over the chamber, then maybe some internal chamber bracing, depends of the spacing

way to go!
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post #119 of 248 Old 11-13-2016, 06:34 PM
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Fatty,

The sub is coming along nicely. I have to second what Asarose said, about how clean everything is looking....VERY nice work thus far.
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post #120 of 248 Old 11-16-2016, 04:53 AM
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bracing so far looks very good to me too.
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