Gen II Crown XLS Drivecore - Page 20 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #571 of 595 Old 05-31-2019, 04:28 AM
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Ordered mine. NX6000 is going back!
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post #572 of 595 Old 06-16-2019, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Maxey View Post
I was able to use this relay that can be in either in normally open or normally closed mode without a voltage on it:



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



I believe the Crown amp wants the mode to be closed for sleeping (so closed when the denon avr is off) and open for awake (when the denon avr is on).



I connected the relay to the trigger out on my Denon AVR with this cable:



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



It works great if wired correctly, but I agree that the pulsing LEDs when sleeping is incredibly annoying. You could tape over them perhaps. I can post a pic of the wiring if interested.
Any chance you could share how you wired this up for those that want to duplicate? I've been looking for just this kind of thing!

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post #573 of 595 Old 06-16-2019, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roccoman View Post
Any chance you could share how you wired this up for those that want to duplicate? I've been looking for just this kind of thing!

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Yea I posted a pic of the wiring two posts up.
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post #574 of 595 Old 06-23-2019, 10:23 PM
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So just got my crown xls 2502, hooked it up and got a ground loop buzz, after swapping rca for XLR to RCA, the ground loop buzz was gone(crown hooked up to my yamaha reciever, however when i throw in a mini dsp in between the ground loop comes back. Another problem i get is when i have xlr to yamaha receiver, i barely get any power to subs. i played music/movies and i can only get 1 green light barely so i know im not getting any power to my subs. Any one know how to fix this? i checked other threads and ground loop seems to be together with people who say they arent getting enough power to their subs. Im sure a clean box will fix the ground loop but will it also fix the power part too?? as even when i dont have ground loop, it still doesnt pproduce enough power. I tried .775 and 1.4 and i have in stereo hooked up to 2 subs that are wired at 4 ohms. Even tried reversing and nothing. Also if this helps, knobs are maxed out and ypao has set it to -4 db
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post #575 of 595 Old 06-24-2019, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valleyslim View Post
So just got my crown xls 2502, hooked it up and got a ground loop buzz, after swapping rca for XLR to RCA, the ground loop buzz was gone(crown hooked up to my yamaha reciever, however when i throw in a mini dsp in between the ground loop comes back. Another problem i get is when i have xlr to yamaha receiver, i barely get any power to subs. i played music/movies and i can only get 1 green light barely so i know im not getting any power to my subs. Any one know how to fix this? i checked other threads and ground loop seems to be together with people who say they arent getting enough power to their subs. Im sure a clean box will fix the ground loop but will it also fix the power part too?? as even when i dont have ground loop, it still doesnt pproduce enough power. I tried .775 and 1.4 and i have in stereo hooked up to 2 subs that are wired at 4 ohms. Even tried reversing and nothing. Also if this helps, knobs are maxed out and ypao has set it to -4 db
Clean-box should fix the power part too. Yamaha has notoriously low pre-out voltage.
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post #576 of 595 Old 06-24-2019, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STL D View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by valleyslim View Post
So just got my crown xls 2502, hooked it up and got a ground loop buzz, after swapping rca for XLR to RCA, the ground loop buzz was gone(crown hooked up to my yamaha reciever, however when i throw in a mini dsp in between the ground loop comes back. Another problem i get is when i have xlr to yamaha receiver, i barely get any power to subs. i played music/movies and i can only get 1 green light barely so i know im not getting any power to my subs. Any one know how to fix this? i checked other threads and ground loop seems to be together with people who say they arent getting enough power to their subs. Im sure a clean box will fix the ground loop but will it also fix the power part too?? as even when i dont have ground loop, it still doesnt pproduce enough power. I tried .775 and 1.4 and i have in stereo hooked up to 2 subs that are wired at 4 ohms. Even tried reversing and nothing. Also if this helps, knobs are maxed out and ypao has set it to -4 db
Clean-box should fix the power part too. Yamaha has notoriously low pre-out voltage.
So reading reviews on amazon, people say the clean box gave them ground loop when they didn't have before, also 1 review said this was the case when a PC was plugged in my home theater has a pc in it, so so will this fix both my ground loop, because I only get ground loop when I add in the mini dsp, thanks for your response
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post #577 of 595 Old 07-16-2019, 04:26 PM
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So where's a good place to pick these up right now? I'm seeing PSSL has the 2502 for $600 right now, any places that can do better?
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post #578 of 595 Old 08-30-2019, 06:06 AM
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I know this has been covered many times in this thread but I am still struggling a little with using a relay with a 12v trigger from the AVR. This is the relay I bought and im not 100% sure if its right or not.

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Chann...s%2C139&sr=8-4

Assuming it is right im confused about the wiring as ive seen different wiring diagrams online. I tried wiring by: set the jumper to L. Connect + lead to DC+ and the negative lead to DC-, and put a jumper between "IN" and DC+. That didnt work.

In the comments on amazon someone says they used it for a crown XLS wiring it by: set the jumper to L. Connect positive lead to DC- and the negative lead to DC+. Then add a jumper from DC+ to "IN"

Yet, another person said they wired it by: Connect positive lead to DC+, and the negative lead to DC-. Then add a jumper from DC- to "IN"

So if anyone has a clue, it would be much appreciated.

Thanks
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post #579 of 595 Old 08-30-2019, 06:22 AM
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This was the pic that @Chris Maxey posted a page back. I've not done it myself, but maybe his pic will help.

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post #580 of 595 Old 08-30-2019, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notfastenough View Post
This was the pic that @Chris Maxey posted a page back. I've not done it myself, but maybe his pic will help.

I did see this, but its slightly different from my relay as it has 4 way terminal block, and mine has 3. That picture is what made me think that maybe my relay isnt the correct one.

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post #581 of 595 Old 08-30-2019, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwander View Post
I did see this, but its slightly different from my relay as it has 4 way terminal block, and mine has 3. That picture is what made me think that maybe my relay isnt the correct one.
Oh, I see. I'll have to look at this tonight to see what the difference is.
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post #582 of 595 Old 08-30-2019, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwander View Post
I did see this, but its slightly different from my relay as it has 4 way terminal block, and mine has 3. That picture is what made me think that maybe my relay isnt the correct one.
Oh, I see. I'll have to look at this tonight to see what the difference is.
Awesome. Very much appreciated.

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post #583 of 595 Old 08-30-2019, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by dwander View Post
Awesome. Very much appreciated.
That relay should be fine. The extra terminal in mine is a reference voltage terminal (VREF). I have it connected with the - terminal and the IN terminal on mine connected to the + terminal. This activates the relay (opens it) when power is applied. For yours it looks like the H/L pins are what the VREF terminal is on mine. Seems like you should have the pins in H mode, then connect + to + and - to -, with the IN terminal bridged with the + terminal should be the way to go. Then, you'll want to use the NC terminal and the COM terminal on the output side. If this is right, when no power is applied, the circuit should be closed. If you plug in the relay and wire connection to your AVR and then turn the AVR on, you should be able to hear the relay click which means it's switched and the circuit is now open. If you have a multimeter, you can also check the resistance to make sure it's closed/open when you want it to be. Hopefully this works.


EDIT: There are other configurations I think that would work (for instance, if you do what you originally did, but have the - and IN terminal connected, that may work), but what I mentioned I believe matches the setup on the relay I have.

Last edited by Chris Maxey; 08-30-2019 at 11:24 AM.
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post #584 of 595 Old 08-30-2019, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Maxey View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwander View Post
Awesome. Very much appreciated.
That relay should be fine. The extra terminal in mine is a reference voltage terminal (VREF). I have it connected with the - terminal and the IN terminal on mine connected to the + terminal. This activates the relay (opens it) when power is applied. For yours it looks like the H/L pins are what the VREF terminal is on mine. Seems like you should have the pins in H mode, then connect + to + and - to -, with the IN terminal bridged with the + terminal should be the way to go. Then, you'll want to use the NC terminal and the COM terminal on the output side. If this is right, when no power is applied, the circuit should be closed. If you plug in the relay and wire connection to your AVR and then turn the AVR on, you should be able to hear the relay click which means it's switched and the circuit is now open. If you have a multimeter, you can also check the resistance to make sure it's closed/open when you want it to be. Hopefully this works.


EDIT: There are other configurations I think that would work (for instance, if you do what you originally did, but have the - and IN terminal connected, that may work), but what I mentioned I believe matches the setup on the relay I have.
I tried your EDIT first and worked right away. Thank you very much. Any reason I shouldn’t just leave it alone, or is there a reason to go with your first suggestion?

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post #585 of 595 Old 08-30-2019, 11:53 AM
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I tried your EDIT first and worked right away. Thank you very much. Any reason I shouldn’t just leave it alone, or is there a reason to go with your first suggestion?
If it's working I'd say you're good to go!
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post #586 of 595 Old 08-30-2019, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by dwander View Post
I tried your EDIT first and worked right away. Thank you very much. Any reason I shouldn’t just leave it alone, or is there a reason to go with your first suggestion?
If it's working I'd say you're good to go!
Good man! Thanks again!

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post #587 of 595 Old 09-02-2019, 07:06 AM
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I am going to use a Zigbee compatible Smart Plug (Osram or Philips Hue) to power mine down.

One thing I saw happening on my is that althoug the meters are dimmed they come up ever so slightly when they reach the point of clipping?
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post #588 of 595 Old 09-09-2019, 05:32 PM
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From what I've read, with regards to appropriate relays for remote "trigger", this one should do it but before I purchased, I just wanted to run it by you lot first to get your blessing:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LW15D1M/


Am I right in thinking I connect the 12V trigger out on my receiver to the 12V DC+ and DC-, with a jumper cable from DC+ to "IN", then on the other side, connect NC and COM to pins 1 and 2 (left to right facing the back of the amp?) on the AUX/Phoenix connector on the XLS?
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post #589 of 595 Old 09-15-2019, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LondonBenji View Post
From what I've read, with regards to appropriate relays for remote "trigger", this one should do it but before I purchased, I just wanted to run it by you lot first to get your blessing:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LW15D1M/


Am I right in thinking I connect the 12V trigger out on my receiver to the 12V DC+ and DC-, with a jumper cable from DC+ to "IN", then on the other side, connect NC and COM to pins 1 and 2 (left to right facing the back of the amp?) on the AUX/Phoenix connector on the XLS?
Well I'm a big fat failure. Ordered the stuff I needed, connected the wires and Phoenix connector to the relay, then went to plug it in annnnnd...... It turns out I don't even have a trigger out on my Sony STR-DN1040 AVR.... fail.

So I'm just going to use a spare 12V PSU I have connected to a spare Z-Wave outlet I have and use that instead to trigger the relay....
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post #590 of 595 Old 10-10-2019, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by notfastenough View Post

Regarding signal sensing, not a feature. It does have a sleep mode, but is not configured to be "plug and play" with the mono 2.5mm cable. A relay is required and if the switching device is momentary (not constant voltage) it can cause another issue for using the sleep function. I've messed around with it using a standard 12v relay, but not had any success for using my Denon's trigger out or my Rotel's out trigger either.

The other issue is when the amp is actually "asleep" the front LED's blink 1x per second or so. Not really useful and only annoying to me personally.
I used a relay, a 2.5mm male plug and some speaker wire to drive the XLS 2502 sleep mode with my 12V trigger on my denon amp. It was straightforward and I got the details from this thread I think.

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post #591 of 595 Old 10-14-2019, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by dgkula View Post
I used a relay, a 2.5mm male plug and some speaker wire to drive the XLS 2502 sleep mode with my 12V trigger on my denon amp. It was straightforward and I got the details from this thread I think.
I'm also questioning the 2.5mm Jack I'm using. I thought it was mono, but doesn't look the same as my trigger cable to the rotel. Haven't looked into it much since I've not had any real negative effects from just leaving the amp on at idle.
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post #592 of 595 Old 10-21-2019, 05:05 AM
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So this amp still working well for you guys? I’m thinking of pulling the trigger on a xls2002...
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post #593 of 595 Old 10-21-2019, 09:19 AM
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I love them. Never tried the 2002, I have tended to run either 1502's or 2502's.

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post #594 of 595 Old 10-21-2019, 09:41 AM
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I love them. Never tried the 2002, I have tended to run either 1502's or 2502's.

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I love my 1502, now that the iNuke3000 is powered down (no sub to drive) the silence is amazing. That 3000 might get replaced with 2502 someday....

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post #595 of 595 Old 10-21-2019, 05:13 PM
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I love them. Never tried the 2002, I have tended to run either 1502's or 2502's.

Chris

I replaced my iN3kDSP when it died with my first Crown amp, the XLS2502.



Absolutely zero regrets, absolutely love it, to the point that I won't buy another Behringer again. The added cost of the Crown amp (and MiniDSP if needed) is 100% worth it in my opinion.
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