PicoWrecker Build Log - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 53 Old 05-04-2015, 11:57 PM - Thread Starter
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PicoWrecker Build Log

I've finally gotten caught up on building things for other people so I figure its time to build something for myself. I've had the Alpine SWS-10D2 driver sitting around for a while so I can finally get going on this PicoWrecker.

First off I'd like to say thanks to lilmike for coming up with the design and making it available to the community!

My PicoWrecker is going to be built out of 3/4" Arauco plywood and will most likely be finished in Duratex. I'll be posting pictures to this thread as I go along but here are a few to get things started.

Crosscutting the panel on the table saw. A good crosscut sled is the second greatest thing ever for the table saw. The first greatest thing ever is an outfeed table:


I've drawn out all the lines for the panels, the Incra T-Rule you can see right above the side panel makes this MUCH easier and more accurate to do:


Gluing the bottom panel to the side panel. $10 harbor freight 90 degree clamps for the win:


More to come....
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post #2 of 53 Old 05-05-2015, 08:28 AM
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Excellent! A pico build log!

Quote:
Originally Posted by the-jessman View Post
First off I'd like to say thanks to lilmike for coming up with the design and making it available to the community
bears_repeating.jpg -- and to all the other designers who share and support their designs publicly... they make this place quite special, I think.

I've been thinking of building one of these to add to or replace my T-6... I hope you can find the time to post many progress pics, as it looks like a great project.

Good luck! (And nice shop!)
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post #3 of 53 Old 05-05-2015, 03:17 PM - Thread Starter
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More progress.

Back panel, baffle, and top panels being attached:




I get a lot of mileage out of my clamps, you can never have too many:

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part!"

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post #4 of 53 Old 05-05-2015, 06:37 PM
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Very cool! I love horn build threads!
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post #5 of 53 Old 05-05-2015, 07:06 PM
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You are a master clamp artist!

This horn design is confusing to me. The lip extending into the throat area looks like it would cause some kind of trouble. I know very little about horn design. Anyone care to explain? I'm assuming it's there to create a specific compression ratio, where normally the throat taper would do that. But due to the rest of the fold it was the only solution? Is this a common approach?
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post #6 of 53 Old 05-05-2015, 07:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the compliment Samps. I've wondered the same thing about the little "finger"' sticking into the throat area. I kinda assumed the same thing as you and figured it was for the compression ratio. I figure lilmike knows what he is doing, maybe he will come and weigh in on the subject.

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"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part!"

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Last edited by the-jessman; 05-05-2015 at 10:31 PM.
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post #7 of 53 Old 05-05-2015, 10:37 PM - Thread Starter
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More progress.

I'm using my Harbor Freight pocket hole jig to make some hole for one of the inside panels. This panel will be difficult to clamp well and pocket screws are my preferred method of dealing with that problem. BTW, I'm not a giant Harbor Freight fan-boy, but they do make some things well and that pocket hole jig and 90 degree clamps are some of those things.


Here you can see where the panel I used pocket screws on goes:


More panels being attached, lots more clamps being used:
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post #8 of 53 Old 05-06-2015, 03:11 AM
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Looking good! Which brand clamps are the ones with the black handles (last picture; look pretty heavy-duty)? How do you like them?

Tim
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post #9 of 53 Old 05-06-2015, 08:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post
Looking good! Which brand clamps are the ones with the black handles (last picture; look pretty heavy-duty)? How do you like them?

Tim
Those are Rockler F-style clamps. http://www.rockler.com/sure-footreg-...-clamps-clamps

I like them, they are nice clamps. I've got a little bit of everything when it comes to the clamp department, its kind of a tie between the Rockler clamps and the Bessey clamps for which are my favorite.
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post #10 of 53 Old 05-06-2015, 09:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Gluing in the final internal panel:


Here you can see all the goodness on the inside, I used 3/4" dowels for bracing:


Final outside panel being attached:
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post #11 of 53 Old 05-07-2015, 09:12 AM
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That turned out very nice. Nice lip for flush trimming, and no ugly screw or nail holes to fill. Definitely a candidate for staining! The round overs on the internal panels is a nice touch. You're certainly no stranger to wood working.

All those clamps and you still had to sit the paint can on top just for the weekend warriors, lol.


How the heck do you get the screws/bolts into the mounting holes on the back side of the driver? Is there an access panel? Doesn't look like too much room to get your hands in there.

This also appears to be built using regular wood glue and not PL. I guess with your very accurate cuts the wood glue is just as good and less messy. The closer I look the better it appears.

Last edited by Samps; 05-07-2015 at 09:18 AM.
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post #12 of 53 Old 05-07-2015, 09:42 AM
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Thanks for the pics! I plan to build one this weekend!
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post #13 of 53 Old 05-07-2015, 12:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samps View Post
That turned out very nice. Nice lip for flush trimming, and no ugly screw or nail holes to fill. Definitely a candidate for staining! The round overs on the internal panels is a nice touch. You're certainly no stranger to wood working.

All those clamps and you still had to sit the paint can on top just for the weekend warriors, lol.


How the heck do you get the screws/bolts into the mounting holes on the back side of the driver? Is there an access panel? Doesn't look like too much room to get your hands in there.

This also appears to be built using regular wood glue and not PL. I guess with your very accurate cuts the wood glue is just as good and less messy. The closer I look the better it appears.
Thanks for the compliments! I used Arauco plywood, which is made from pine, so it doesn't take stain real well. These will probably get Duratex'ed or veneered, haven't decided.

The paint can is kinda funny. I didn't have a really good way to clamp that front edge. I had the cabinet clamped down to my assembly table to try to get any warps out (Arauco ply is rarely perfectly flat), so I didn't have any good way to put clamps on that side. I used tapered cauls to spread the clamping pressure out, but I didn't have quite as much pressure there as I would have liked. I'm pretty sure that can of paint contributed almost nothing, but it made me feel better.

No access panel to get to the driver. It actually isn't that bad at all to get to it, I've built cabinets that are a lot worse (Autotuba comes to mind).

I generally use regular Titebond II wood glue for cabinet construction. I still keep a tube of PL around just in case, but I've gotten pretty good at not needing it. It makes such a mess.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
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post #14 of 53 Old 05-09-2015, 03:04 PM - Thread Starter
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I got some time work on the PicoWrecker again.

I trimmed and rounded over all the edges and begin filling in spots with wood filler:

Now its beginning to look presentable.

Next up is lots of sanding, more filler, and then it will probably be ready for primer and finally Duratex.
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post #15 of 53 Old 05-09-2015, 06:08 PM
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Looks great, the-jessman. Can't wait to hear your listening impressions. I'm in on the UXL group buy but still have this little voice in my head yelling "No! Build horns!"
/off to read the picowrecker original thread
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post #16 of 53 Old 05-09-2015, 06:21 PM
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Looks great jessman, hope it sounds just as good.

Why waste $ on more cheap stuff, it's like challenging a dragon with a pocket knife.
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post #17 of 53 Old 05-09-2015, 08:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the compliments. I have a couple other subwoofer enclosures I'd like to build and then I'm going to get measure all of them to compare their performance. I'll be sure to post my results.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part!"

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So I finished mine yesterday. Really a straight forward build. I replaced two subs (10 and 12) with this one big box in my open family room. It is so incredibly sensitive and as a result: powerfull! I'm using a left over 300 wpch plate amp and have to keep it turned way down, else it blows us all away. I have a DTS-10 in my theater, and this reminds me of that horn sub sound. Love it!
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post #19 of 53 Old 05-12-2015, 07:36 AM
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Great build.. i must hav missed lilmikes original post on this one w/ the specs. Had an f20 planned for the future but i gotta see how this one performs.. a lot of Martys being built lately around these parts.. are the horns really that much harder to build?? They seem fairly straight forward builds.. jmo

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I chose this one because it is so easy. There are only six basic panels on the inside. I still can't believe how awesome it sounds with so little power versus my sealed and ported subs for theater that require 1000+ watts per driver.
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post #21 of 53 Old 05-12-2015, 09:51 AM
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The picowrecker is a Tapped horn around 8 cubic feet. The F20 is a front loaded horn around 21 cubic feet (outside dimensions for both).

I don't think a horn is any harder than a marty unless you were using handy panels for the marty. The hard part about a horn is the design, which was kindly donated here.
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Great looking build, it will be neat to see the finished product as well as comparisons with the other subs you will build and test at the same time.

My MicroWrecker is going strong!

I have an old 12" Titanic MKIII driver that has no box for it currently, but Mike had said that it was not a good candidate for a tapped horn.
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post #23 of 53 Old 05-12-2015, 01:35 PM
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Is the original Picowrecker thread under a different title?? cause i was unable to find it.. or is this the first "build" thread?? Maybe itz me...

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dRwOOD73 View Post
Is the original Picowrecker thread under a different title?? cause i was unable to find it.. or is this the first "build" thread?? Maybe itz me...
Original thread is here:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...cowrecker.html

Mr. lilmike posts plans and measurements a few comments in. Enjoy!
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post #25 of 53 Old 05-12-2015, 01:43 PM
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Muchas gracias#!

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Muchas gracias#!
De nada. I may have been quick on that trigger because I'm drooling over the design and trying to come up with a good reason to add one to my already existing T-6. ; )
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post #27 of 53 Old 05-18-2015, 04:57 PM - Thread Starter
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I finally got enough projects that needed Duratex-ing to make it worth getting out the Duratex gun. Anyway, here it is, fresh applied:


Just have to wait for it to dry and then I can throw the driver back in and it will be ready to rock!
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Looks good! Nice smooth finish (no obvious blemishes at seams or anything).
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It looks great, but there is some precision woodwork hidden under that duratex. Darn thing looked like veneer! It deserved to be seen.
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post #30 of 53 Old 05-18-2015, 08:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samps View Post
It looks great, but there is some precision woodwork hidden under that duratex. Darn thing looked like veneer! It deserved to be seen.

Thanks for the compliment! I'll be building a THT in the not too distant future. It will be out of 1/2" baltic birch and I won't be Duratex-ing it so y'all will be able to see all that Birch goodness.

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"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part!"

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