Cinema-10 Max & Volt 8 Build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 76 Old 05-07-2015, 01:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Cinema-10 Max & Volt 8 Build

Since these are fairly new I thought I would do a build thread. I don't usually do a thread because I just build boring black rectangles but here goes.

Pile of parts:


1 of the crossovers for the Max:



I had Home Depot rip all the panels 1/2" over width and then trimmed them on the table saw at my dad's house. All the exact cuts are 11" wide. Everything else will be trimmed flush with a router.

Saw guide setup:

Maybe later I'll take that trike out for a spin.

All the cool kids have fancy bracing so I'm making some too:



More on that later.

Clampmageddon about to start:
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Last edited by nograveconcern; 05-07-2015 at 01:47 PM.
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post #2 of 76 Old 05-07-2015, 03:15 PM - Thread Starter
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That took every one of my 20 clamps:
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post #3 of 76 Old 05-07-2015, 04:02 PM
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I'll be stealing that soldering iron stand idea! Been looking to do something simple to hold one of mine.
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post #4 of 76 Old 05-07-2015, 04:15 PM
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Nice right angle reference device.
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post #5 of 76 Old 05-07-2015, 05:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice right angle reference device.
I stole that idea from someone on here.
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post #6 of 76 Old 05-07-2015, 06:29 PM
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I had a local shop cnc me some of those out of some nice fine-ply plywood a while back. Best $120 ever spent. Got 9 24"x24" squares out of a single sheet. Clamp-A-Palooza indeed.
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post #7 of 76 Old 05-07-2015, 08:25 PM
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Looking great! Keep them pics coming!
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post #8 of 76 Old 05-08-2015, 04:41 AM
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Wow, nice job on the braces! I also like your "right angle reference devices"

You shouldn't need soldering paste. The solder is flux core.

Tim
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post #9 of 76 Old 05-08-2015, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
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That took every one of my 20 clamps:
Wait, you only have 20 clamps? I think we're going to have to revoke your membership to the DIY forum.
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post #10 of 76 Old 05-08-2015, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostick4 View Post
I had a local shop cnc me some of those out of some nice fine-ply plywood a while back. Best $120 ever spent. Got 9 24"x24" squares out of a single sheet. Clamp-A-Palooza indeed.
Those large 90 deg square clamp guides are sweeeeeeet! I wonder if @Gorilla83 has made any like them.

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post #11 of 76 Old 05-08-2015, 02:25 PM
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Welcome to the Cinema 10 Max club. Looking forward to seeing the "boring black rectangles".
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post #12 of 76 Old 05-08-2015, 08:07 PM
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As stated above, correct solder doesn't need flux paste....IMHO, and I've built at least a few projects in my day(mostly mic/rf amplifiers).

Why waste $ on more cheap stuff, it's like challenging a dragon with a pocket knife.
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post #13 of 76 Old 05-09-2015, 03:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post
Wow, nice job on the braces! I also like your "right angle reference devices"

You shouldn't need soldering paste. The solder is flux core.

Tim
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As stated above, correct solder doesn't need flux paste....IMHO, and I've built at least a few projects in my day(mostly mic/rf amplifiers).
I just find a little dab of flux makes it flow better. I'm no expert on soldering though.
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post #14 of 76 Old 05-09-2015, 03:30 PM - Thread Starter
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I glued up the other side and end piece on both boxes:


Then on to bracing. So I decided I could remove a little more cancer dust from these without losing any strength:


Next to make some braces for behind the woofers:


And some for the end pieces as well:


Now if only I had a router table...or do I? Who knew circle jig=router table?


All cleaned up and ready:


Now we fast forward through 3 hours of mind numbing bracing installation to...



Max-sandwich:
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post #15 of 76 Old 05-09-2015, 03:38 PM
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Those are the most solidly-braced non-subwoofer cabs I've ever seen. GREAT job with the bracing. And I think your "router table" idea is pure genius. I've been moaning and groaning over my lack of a router table for a long time now and never came up the idea you did. /so stolen


For certain operations like rounding-over braces, a router table is the right tool for the job. I could do it with my small Colt router but it would take 3x as long and would be tedious.


Those cabs will not be rattling. Ever. Keep up the awesome work!
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post #16 of 76 Old 05-09-2015, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nograveconcern View Post
I just find a little dab of flux makes it flow better. I'm no expert on soldering though.
I'm sure it'll work either way with the pads being so far apart. Just a little extra work. What I do is touch the iron to the pad, then bridge the iron to the pad with a touch of solder. Then touch the solder on the opposite side of the pad.

Heat (or lack thereof) is probably what makes it seem like the paste makes it work better. But hey. whatever works. Everything is looking great!

Tim
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post #17 of 76 Old 05-09-2015, 08:21 PM
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Nice braces!!!
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post #18 of 76 Old 05-09-2015, 09:09 PM
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Nice bracing.

Way overkill for midrange drivers IMHO, but ya won't have to worry that's for sure!

Why waste $ on more cheap stuff, it's like challenging a dragon with a pocket knife.
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post #19 of 76 Old 05-10-2015, 05:35 PM
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DIY router table made easy - check!

Idea stolen for future projects.

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post #20 of 76 Old 05-11-2015, 02:53 PM - Thread Starter
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post #21 of 76 Old 05-12-2015, 07:29 AM
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Great work the bracing looks super.
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post #22 of 76 Old 05-16-2015, 05:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Time to flush trim:


Trim the backs first, then the ends.




Random orbital sander + shop vac:


Now the filler process begins. I start with kitty hair for the screw heads on the ends and then move to regular Bondo and then to drywall mud.


I didn't want a pro-audio look with 1/2 roundovers, but paint doesn't stick to 90 degree corners so I went with a 1/4 roundover:


Jack hole time. Made this simple jig from cutoffs from the bracing:


And done. Had I though about it though, I could have just used a 2" fostner bit.


Laid out and drilled 3/8 holes with fostner bit for grill magnets:


Magnets epoxied in. If you look close you can see where I broke the edge of the 3/8 hole over with a 1/2 drill bit to give the filler a little more MDF to grab onto:


The magnets are covered with a layer of kitty hair and then a skim coat of Bondo. I went ahead and painted the bottoms with Duratex. I had some issues with the seams showing through even after 5 coats, so I pulled out all the tricks for the rest of the cabinets. First a skim coat of drywall mud:


Then high build primer:


Then 4 coats of Duratex. Also note I painted the area behind the ports black.
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post #23 of 76 Old 05-16-2015, 05:54 PM
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4 coats of Duratex? That's $$$ right there.
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post #24 of 76 Old 05-16-2015, 06:50 PM
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Looks really good. Great job taking the time to do it right. I hear people talking about how Duratex covers seams but I just don't get that. I have come across a product that can yet. The only way is mitres or what you've done.
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post #25 of 76 Old 05-16-2015, 08:58 PM
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The combination of the thickness of a coat (or multiple coats) of Duratex and the bumpiness of the finish does hide seams. My PA cabs had seams and now they don't.
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post #26 of 76 Old 05-16-2015, 09:07 PM
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I find Duaratex can hide brad holes and such, but I can still see seams after 3 coats....Of course they were not 100% perfect due to minimal sanding.

Why waste $ on more cheap stuff, it's like challenging a dragon with a pocket knife.
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post #27 of 76 Old 05-16-2015, 09:32 PM
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I'd like to see it. I've never seen a duratex hidden seem.
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post #28 of 76 Old 05-17-2015, 02:31 AM
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to get rid of seams you use superglue and sanding... ... sand them down first as usual (PL will make this a nightmare if you used it in your build)... sand the tar out of your seams... fill any cracks in the seams with sawdust (or mdf dust) and dribble ultra thin super glue over the top... the sawdust will pull in the glue and create an iron paste... then sand the top of the glue... it will make them disappear so easily that you can use latex paint over them and never know a line was there.

I'm too lazy to be that OCD, but my wood working buddy is anal retentive and freaks out over every line.
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Your entire thread is full of win, but I find this one to be the winningest...
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post #30 of 76 Old 05-18-2015, 06:01 PM - Thread Starter
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There's two ways of doing something: right...

...or again.

I've been using a foam roller up until this point in an effort to get a smoother matte finish. However it's just not covering. After 4 coats I've got shiny spots like this:


So I switched to a nap roller and did 1 more coat on the entire box and 2 more on the baffle.

On to wiring. First I drilled out the tabs on these little buggers:


Then one positive:


Then negative:


Installed:


Crossover in:


Used these nylon standoffs:


I thought I had some mattress topper in my pile of leftovers, but I had quilt batting instead so I used it.


And the big finish:
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