Yet another Infinity 1260 build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 24 Old 07-13-2015, 04:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Yet another Infinity 1260 build

Having a living room double as your home theater requires some compromises, my compromise is to build smaller yet effective subs. I had a Mirage SUB-8 in the family room that blew the amp, time to build another sub with the 1260 driver and move the PL-200 into the family room.

Decided on ~2.6ft^3, tuned to ~25Hz according to WinISD (have my first 1260 build handling the stuff down to ~18Hz). Already had an nu1000DSP with a free channel, so off to HD for MDF.

Initial cuts (box is 17Wx19Hx20D, 10x"1.5"x24" port):


For anyone new to working with MDF, it's nasty stuff. Wear a mask!! Recommend cutting outdoors if possible. This filter was brand new before I started cutting:


Built the port bottom and notched the inner baffle to go around it, just like the DIYSG flatpacks (OK, minus the CNC precision! ):


Inner and outer baffles with their holes cut (plunge router), a 1/4" round over on the outer edge, and a quick shot of black from a rattle can:


My Puma 1/4" crown stapler from Builder's Square (anyone remember them?) finally gave up the ghost, so 1-1/4" brads instead. And a little caulk once assembled (OK, copious amounts of caulk. I miscalculated the gun's ability to get into the seams with the port in position, just smeared it in place with my finger):


Cheap mattress topper from Kmart, used electric stapler to fasten:


Baffles in place, temporarily place driver to pre-drill mounting holes. Some scrap laminate pieces to center it on the outer baffle hole:


Hogged out the port front with a flush trim bit, shot it with black and attached top:


Rounded over outside edges, filled seams and nail holes with wood filler, sanded with random orbital. Did I mention MDF sucks to work with? Wear a mask!!


Restore 4x. Never worked with anything like it before. Crazy thick, great at covering up those little imperfections. Had to get it mixed black here, only tint base available and limited color selection. Don't know if that's the case in other areas. Used a 9", 3/8" nap roller:


Well, maybe not all those little imperfections. In position you can't see the seams at all, but here you can. This is the end result after 2 coats, also note the texture with the cheap roller cover (also looks more like grey in this pic, but it's really black):


And finally, in position. Personally I think it looks pretty slick with the unique Infinity reference cone:





Still have to finish up some wiring, run REW and integrate it but I'm pleased with the looks so far. Have enough room on the other side of the TV stand, might just have to build another!

Once again, many thanks to all those that contribute their time and knowledge to help out us newbies!

Scott
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post #2 of 24 Old 07-13-2015, 05:54 PM - Thread Starter
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OK, measurements from the MLP.

Black - The new 1260 build all on it's own, no Audyssey (I had already EQ'd and set delays when this was snapped, but it was similarly ugly without)
Green - Both 1260s together, EQ'd, no Audyssey
Red - Both 1260s together, EQ'd, with Audyssey



Probably spend some more time tweaking the setup but right now it sounds SO much better than the 1260/PL-200 combo. A lot less distortion, more headroom, great tactile response. Good for music too, whereas with the old combo I was only using the PL-200 as it really couldn't keep up with the original 1260.
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post #3 of 24 Old 07-13-2015, 06:14 PM
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Nice build, looks great. What was your total cost on the driver + enclosure materials? I'm thinking around $125-$135? For that price it would be hard to beat what you'll get out of it I'm sure.
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post #4 of 24 Old 07-13-2015, 06:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice build, looks great. What was your total cost on the driver + enclosure materials? I'm thinking around $125-$135? For that price it would be hard to beat what you'll get out of it I'm sure.
Thanks. Yup, around $135 all in.

Driver - $52 (caught Amazon in a weak moment apparently)
MDF - $38 (Home Depot's panel saw was down when I went in, ended up paying more than I should have for pre-cut 2x4 sheets)
Mattress topper - $13 (Again, more than I would have spent at Ollie's, but they were out)
Connectors/wire from Monoprice, PE and eBay - ~$30 (Actually a bit more, but I ran some new Speakon plates in the walls so I don't count those parts)
Glue, nails, staples, screws and caulk I already have so I don't count those. Bump another $10 or so for those.

Of course the fact that I already had the nu1000DSP doesn't factor in here, so anyone looking for their first build would have to add ~$200 for that. Or maybe a less expensive plate amp.

Tough to beat the output for the price, I had a pretty good idea that would be the case from my first build. Will hopefully have some measurements tomorrow, curious to see how this one compares to the 4ft^3 first build.
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post #5 of 24 Old 07-13-2015, 07:14 PM
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I wish I could get my subs built as fast you do.
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post #6 of 24 Old 07-13-2015, 07:32 PM - Thread Starter
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I wish I could get my subs built as fast you do.
Hah! Well, go smaller, they're easier.

3 days all told, during the 4th of July weekend. Started Thursday late afternoon, Sunday was sanding and Restore 4x day - wanted to let it cure up while I traveled late last week. Spent Saturday the 4th working on the brisket, no progress on the sub.


Mmmmm...
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post #7 of 24 Old 07-13-2015, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post

And finally, in position. Personally I think it looks pretty slick with the unique Infinity reference cone:




Scott



nice work scott.

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post #8 of 24 Old 07-13-2015, 07:42 PM
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Scott
That is a magnificent job my friend.
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post #9 of 24 Old 07-13-2015, 07:46 PM
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Hah! Well, go smaller, they're easier.

3 days all told, during the 4th of July weekend. Started Thursday late afternoon, Sunday was sanding and Restore 4x day - wanted to let it cure up while I traveled late last week.
Heck, I'd be lucky if I could complete a sub in a 3 weeks (working on it nights and weekends)... I don't build big subs either. My latest one is basically a 25.5" cube (~200L net). It needs another coat or two of poly and it'll be ready for driver installation after it cures. Applying dye + stain + poly isn't the fastest process and I'm probably way too meticulous/particular on the details. If this sub turns out as expected I've got a 2nd one (passive slave) to build too.
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post #10 of 24 Old 07-13-2015, 08:08 PM - Thread Starter
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nice work scott.
Thank you sir. You are one of those I referenced when I thanked those here for contributing their time and knowledge. Without the information you and others have provided I would never have considered building my own subwoofers. I'm now considering DIY mains/center on a small scale.

Many thanks for what you provide to this community.
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post #11 of 24 Old 07-13-2015, 08:12 PM - Thread Starter
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That is a magnificent job my friend.
Thanks! Building a box is really not a big deal for me, the real trick is modeling to determine what box to build for a particular driver, hope I got that right this time.

Will post results in the next couple of days.
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post #12 of 24 Old 07-13-2015, 08:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Heck, I'd be lucky if I could complete a sub in a 3 weeks (working on it nights and weekends)... I don't build big subs either. My latest one is basically a 25.5" cube (~200L net). It needs another coat or two of poly and it'll be ready for driver installation after it cures. Applying dye + stain + poly isn't the fastest process and I'm probably way too meticulous/particular on the details. If this sub turns out as expected I've got a 2nd one (passive slave) to build too.
I hear you, your builds are much more intense than mine in the finishing aspect. I only have the patience to do something like that when I have my mind set to it, maybe on my next build when I'm not so concerned with SQ. I'm very new to this, so hearing/feeling what they will do is foremost in my mind at this point.

Already looking at replacing the 4.1ft^3 1260 build with an 18" sealed driver and building a twin of this one for the other side of the TV stand. If I go that route the WAF might drop to an all time low, so I better make it look nice!
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post #13 of 24 Old 07-14-2015, 06:09 AM
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Thanks! Building a box is really not a big deal for me
Great! For my next build, I'll just send all the materials to you so you could work your magic
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post #14 of 24 Old 07-14-2015, 06:12 AM
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Seriously, if you had not posted build pictures, I'd swear that you purchased that box from a professional manufacture; it looks that nice
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post #15 of 24 Old 07-14-2015, 06:17 AM
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Sub turned out great and the brisket looks even better. Now to finish off all that wine before it gets all agitated from the bass.
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post #16 of 24 Old 07-14-2015, 04:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Great! For my next build, I'll just send all the materials to you so you could work your magic
Sure, send 'em on over!

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Seriously, if you had not posted build pictures, I'd swear that you purchased that box from a professional manufacture; it looks that nice
Oh, the sub in the last 2 pictures? Something I picked up at Best Buy...
Seriously, thanks. I'm pleased with the way it turned out.

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Sub turned out great and the brisket looks even better. Now to finish off all that wine before it gets all agitated from the bass.
Thanks. Was my 2nd attempt on both sub and brisket. Both were hits.

Wine is the wife's, I'll leave that up to her. My stuff is in the beer fridge on the right (the PL-200 on the left is now in my family room, replaced by this build), where there is still room for another sub!:
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post #17 of 24 Old 07-15-2015, 06:21 AM
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...where there is still room for another sub!
You know what that means. Do it!
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post #18 of 24 Old 07-15-2015, 08:14 AM - Thread Starter
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You know what that means. Do it!
Yup! Just have to come up with a plan. Thinking of an SI HT 18 in 4.5ft^3 sealed in place of my first 1260 build, put together a duplicate of the above with that driver. Same footprint, wonder how that would sound.

Hmmm...
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post #19 of 24 Old 09-08-2015, 05:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Very professional work on both projects. Dual ported Infinity 12's and looking to add an 18"; this hobby does grow doesn't it.
Thanks David. It certainly does, there's always that "what if?" in the back of my head.

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Just out of curiosity, have you tested the maximum output of your sub system yet?
Try running sweeps while creeping the volume up, keeping an eye on the distortion tab in REW.
I have not, I may get a chance to try that this week. Biggest issue I see with that is I am using an inexpensive Samson Go Mic to take measurements. While it is helpful in dialing in the FR, it clips fairly easily so I'm not sure I could measure a fair fight.
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post #20 of 24 Old 09-08-2015, 05:50 PM
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I like the big white subwoofer n the right...


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If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #21 of 24 Old 09-08-2015, 06:13 PM - Thread Starter
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I like the big white subwoofer n the right...


Thanks, it's my favorite too until it kicks the compressor on when I'm taking measurements!
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post #22 of 24 Old 09-12-2015, 07:37 AM
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Nice job! I'm also impressed with how nice the slotted port looks in your design. I've been toying with the idea of a 1260 build myself so I might end up duplicating your design ☺
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post #23 of 24 Old 05-28-2019, 08:30 AM
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How come noone is bugging you about your LCR placement!?!? haha My Center is not even close to my LRs either, but once I dialed in distance, phase & toe-in I honestly did not hear a difference when I mocked them up straight across. As long as my sofa and MLP does not move around too much.

Bedroom Audio: Two Shallow Under Bed PA310-8 12's energized by an SPA250DSP Plate Amp. Two BST-1s. 75 Watt 7.1 Onkyo AVR with Five Martin Logan MLT-2 LCR & Surrounds.
Living Room Audio: One Behringer NX6000D flexing four PA460-8's in a contemporary VBSS credenza build, 100 Watt 5.1 Sony AVR zapping Three horizontal Elusive 1099s LCRs and Two Martin Logan MLT-2 Surrounds. Two BST-1 Bass Shakers charged by the MLT-2 Sub Amp.
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post #24 of 24 Old 05-28-2019, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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How come noone is bugging you about your LCR placement!?!? haha My Center is not even close to my LRs either, but once I dialed in distance, phase & toe-in I honestly did not hear a difference when I mocked them up straight across. As long as my sofa and MLP does not move around too much.
Wow, this is a blast from the past! The entire front 3 have changed, you can see that in my Fusion-8 builds thread.

I am however currently working on a new AV equipment/vertical center stand (htm-8) and replacing the 1260s with sealed UM18s. No build thread on those yet, waiting on veneer to arrive.
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