Dayton Audio 15" Ultimax Subwoofer and Cabinet Bundle build - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 230 Old 08-31-2015, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
Now do a sub crawl and find out where it sounds best.
Great job!
Michael
OK... I was thinking of putting the sub a little bit behind the chair for the sub crawl. My MLP would theoretically be the chair, however, I'm gonna mostly be up and walking around when listening to music and behind the chair is where I'd walk. What do ya think?

It is where I put the MCACC mic.
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post #32 of 230 Old 08-31-2015, 07:48 AM
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I think it's time for you to start on your second sub.
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Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #33 of 230 Old 08-31-2015, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhughy2010 View Post
......One thing that was strange is I had to max out gain knob on amp (I guess this is common with pro level amps and consumer equipment). I ended up with the AVR trim at 0dB with the gain knob maxed out......
The knob on the Crown amp is not gain. It's an attenuator. All the way to the right, it will allow the full voltage from your sub output to pass into the amplifier stage. Anything less and it attenuates the signal. That's how pro amps work.
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post #34 of 230 Old 08-31-2015, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by rlj5242 View Post
The knob on the Crown amp is not gain. It's an attenuator. All the way to the right, it will allow the full voltage from your sub output to pass into the amplifier stage. Anything less and it attenuates the signal. That's how pro amps work.

Actually, according to the manual, it is a gain. It is NOT however, a volume control. Other than that one error, your post is correct.





Quote:
Next comes the setting of the amp's input attenuators. Another common misconception of these controls is that they somehow control the OUTPUT of the amp and if you don't max them out then you won't get the full power output from the amps. This is not the case at all. These controls simply control the input sensitivity of the amp. The input sensitivity rating specifies how much voltage is required at the input of the amp to get the output to swing to full clean power before clip. Most amps are rated anywhere from 1VRMS to 2VRMS with the attenuators maxed out. Well, most +4dBu mixers with the gains maxed out and all faders at unity usually put out around 9-10VRMS of signal. With the amp's input attenuators maxed out, you're gonna hit clip long before the mixer puts out its full rated output. Once the amp hits clip, you can't go anymore...PERIOD! So in effect you actually end up sacrificing a good 8 7-8 volts of signal strength from your mixer, which results in about an 18dB-20dB loss in dynamic range/headroom, which amounts to much less voltage swing from the amps. This is where the amp's input attenuators come in. By turning them down to the point where the amp will clip at exactly the same time as the mixer/house graphic/crossover, you can now get the full 9.8 volts of signal from your mixer down the signal chain and into the amps, resulting in max dynamic range/headroom and a much larger voltage swing from the amps, which results in a much more powerful, cleaner sounding system with lots of punch and clarity. By dialing down the input attenuators, the amps will STILL put out full power...it will just take a much larger signal to get it to put out full rated power, which is what you want. A big high gain signal results in a signal with much more musical content for the gear to work with, making each piece of gear MUCH more effective, allowing you to get the most performance out of your gear.
http://www.marshallforum.com/workben...ere-we-go.html
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post #35 of 230 Old 08-31-2015, 12:28 PM
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While most people naturally call that a "gain" knob, it's an attenuator no matter what Crown puts in their documentation. I run a pair of XLS 1000s to power my front 3 speakers.I had to attenuate the signal 1 notch on each of the 3 channels I'm using to match the SPL of my receiver's amp.
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post #36 of 230 Old 08-31-2015, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhughy2010 View Post
I didn't get a darn thing done this week. What I did do though was spend an astronomical amount of time debating and researching on which amplifier to settle on. In the end I decided to go with the Crowns older XLS 2500 drivercore series. I ended up placing the order with B&H this morning. There was a pretty big quarrel going on within... I was about to go with their newer lineup of XLS but I just couldn't justify the cost. I'm partial to auto room correction over utilizing DSP. Behringer was another option obviously and I strongly considered that. In the end I think I made a good choice... we will see this weekend.

I also purchased some sleeving for the speaker wire. It should look pretty good! I'll have to share some pictures once completed.

Has anyone mounted their amplifiers in some sort of rack or shelf? I had thought about getting one of these especially considering if I get another amplifier to drive my mains. I could then put my receiver on top of the shelf and have adequate ventilation for the amps. Another option is this one.

Lastly, another crazy thought!!!! I had considered selling the receiver that I was going to use for this new set up. What are thoughts on connecting the amplifier(s) directly to the computers sound card? They make 3.5mm to XLR cables that I think would hold up to the task.

I have two of those Middle Atlantic racks, one is used for my spare bedroom system and the other is used for my home server.





They are well made but probably not worth the premium they charge. They are very minimalistic, a few rails on the front and the back, a box made out of MDF, and a few cleats in the corners (for any size >16 rack units IIRC). There are several accessories available (fans, security doors, etc). If you don't see yourself needing any of those accessories you should just build it yourself, although you could even probably fit a DIY rack with those accessories pretty easily.
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post #37 of 230 Old 08-31-2015, 12:37 PM - Thread Starter
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^^^Ok that all kind of makes sense. With all that being said here are a few impressions so far and questions.

So far I am really "digging" the sound of this sealed sub as compared to my dual V1500s from PSA. This thing HITS incredibly hard. I am incredibly impressed at how effortlessly the XLS 2500 drives this sub with only one channel and in a 4 ohm capacity. This amp will definitely be able to drive another without a problem. As I have mentioned, I have to place the attenuator/gain knob max and as a result MCACC put the sub trim at 0dB. I then bumped up to +3dB. The mains were reduced -3dB (MCACC again). I'm wondering if an RCA to XLR cable would give some more headroom and allow me to lower the gain knob???

I'm thrilled by movie performance. This thing slams and hits with authority. I'm running an optical/digital cable from my PC to the AVR. The AVR is doing a great job and decoding the signal and still allowing the LFE to get mixed into the sub. I set MPC-HC to bitstream DD and DTS to the AVR. So the AVR is getting a DD signal but still knows it is stereo. I "think" that this is allowing the AVR to treat the LFE signal appropriately. With that said, I feel movies have a tremendous edge as compared to music so far. I'll have to do some more experimenting.
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post #38 of 230 Old 08-31-2015, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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@trevordj , very clean looking set up. I think I will be going with that company for the accessories. I like the look and am not inclined to build anything else but another sub ATM

I'll be picking up a pull out shelf for my AVR and likely put my router and modem on another shelf.

I like the server!!! What's inside?
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post #39 of 230 Old 08-31-2015, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhughy2010 View Post
@trevordj , very clean looking set up. I think I will be going with that company for the accessories. I like the look and am not inclined to build anything else but another sub ATM

I'll be picking up a pull out shelf for my AVR and likely put my router and modem on another shelf.

I like the server!!! What's inside?
Thanks! That is kinda the conclusion I came to as well. Time is limited and I would rather spend time building speakers than racks. It was worth the few extra bucks for me. I think I got them from BH photo, they had the best price at the time.

The server is pretty sweet. It definitely changed how I use my home audio/video (I pretty much do everything from Kodi running the Emby pluggin now, pretty slick).

It is a used supermicro 16 bay/3 RU case I picked up off ebay for a few hundred dollars, supermicro X10SRL motherboard, Intel Xeon E5-1620 processor, and 64 GB ECC Registered Samsung memory running FreeNAS with Sickbeard/Courchpotato/SABnzbd/Emby plugins. Also acts as a whole home TimeMachine and CIFS backup. For storage I am running 8 x 6TB HGST NAS hardrives in two pools, one 6TB pool for home backup and one 30TB pool (42TB in RAIDZ2) for media hosting. It was a bit of a pain to setup but now it just works without any issues.

Client PCs are simply Intel NUCs running Windows 10. I wanted to like OpenELEC but it was going to take me too long to program the IR functionality. It works out of the box with Windows 10 with no fuss.
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post #40 of 230 Old 08-31-2015, 01:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trevordj View Post
Thanks! That is kinda the conclusion I came to as well. Time is limited and I would rather spend time building speakers than racks. It was worth the few extra bucks for me. I think I got them from BH photo, they had the best price at the time.

The server is pretty sweet. It definitely changed how I use my home audio/video (I pretty much do everything from Kodi running the Emby pluggin now, pretty slick).

It is a used supermicro 16 bay/3 RU case I picked up off ebay for a few hundred dollars, supermicro X10SRL motherboard, Intel Xeon E5-1620 processor, and 64 GB ECC Registered Samsung memory running FreeNAS with Sickbeard/Courchpotato/SABnzbd/Emby plugins. Also acts as a whole home TimeMachine and CIFS backup. For storage I am running 8 x 6TB HGST NAS hardrives in two pools, one 6TB pool for home backup and one 30TB pool (42TB in RAIDZ2) for media hosting. It was a bit of a pain to setup but now it just works without any issues.

Client PCs are simply Intel NUCs running Windows 10. I wanted to like OpenELEC but it was going to take me too long to program the IR functionality. It works out of the box with Windows 10 with no fuss.
Very nice! Similar to my setup but on a much larger scale.

I bet that Xeon blows through transcoding effortlessly!

Recently, I transformed my HTPC into a server (not ideal I know but it works great)... I upgraded the case to a fractal design r5. I put an Intel i5-4440 with 16GB mem. I'm up to 3 of the 6TB Red drives and have them pooled with Drivepool (no parity ATM just scanner).

Emby is running on 8.1 pro. Using WMC coupled with MPC-HC. Clients are Roku, AFTV and lots of Web browsers and Win8/10 apps (especially at work

I'd considered Kodi but I'm holding out with high hopes for Emby Theater! This would allow me to get away from WMC (RIP).
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post #41 of 230 Old 08-31-2015, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhughy2010 View Post
Very nice! Similar to my setup but on a much larger scale.

I bet that Xeon blows through transcoding effortlessly!

Recently, I transformed my HTPC into a server (not ideal I know but it works great)... I upgraded the case to a fractal design r5. I put an Intel i5-4440 with 16GB mem. I'm up to 3 of the 6TB Red drives and have them pooled with Drivepool (no parity ATM just scanner).

Emby is running on 8.1 pro. Using WMC coupled with MPC-HC. Clients are Roku, AFTV and lots of Web browsers and Win8/10 apps (especially at work

I'd considered Kodi but I'm holding out with high hopes for Emby Theater! This would allow me to get away from WMC (RIP).
Sounds great! One thing is for sure: Emby is awesome, it does everything I need it to do almost effortlessly! The server will transcode all day (literally) without a hiccup. I share my server with my brother and a few friends. Saturday, 4 people were transcoding movies from my server simultaneously and after speaking with all of them, there was no delay or buffering at all. Pretty impressive!

Seriously, you should consider Kodi. With the emby plugin, all your media will integrate into your library and your watch count/resume will work seamlessly between devices. I never used WMC so I don't have that to compare to. I do think it is a shame they nixed it with Windows 10 though .
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post #42 of 230 Old 08-31-2015, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
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With that said, I feel movies have a tremendous edge as compared to music so far.
That's because there is much less deep bass content in music. You need to go electronic to get much below 30 Hz:
http://www.independentrecording.net/...in_display.htm

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #43 of 230 Old 09-01-2015, 09:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Is there ANY advantage to buying an RCA to XLR cable versus RCA to RCA cable (using the RCA input on the amp)?
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post #44 of 230 Old 09-01-2015, 09:37 AM
 
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Can't think of any reason to use rca to xlr with the XLS amps....
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post #45 of 230 Old 09-01-2015, 11:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
Can't think of any reason to use rca to xlr with the XLS amps....
Ok... so you'd just use an RCA to RCA cable?
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Ok... so you'd just use an RCA to RCA cable?
Yep and is what I do with mine. Speakon for output and on subs....
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post #47 of 230 Old 09-21-2015, 11:25 AM
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The subwoofer kit and beer kit arrived at the same time! How fortuitous!
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post #48 of 230 Old 09-21-2015, 12:34 PM - Thread Starter
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The subwoofer kit and beer kit arrived at the same time! How fortuitous!
That's awesome!!! Probably the best two hobbies to have.

But, I hate to break it to ya... we're entering wine season
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post #49 of 230 Old 09-21-2015, 04:55 PM
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"HELP me Obi Wan, you're my only hope."

I received the Dayton 15" Ultimax driver and box kit today. I didn't realize it did not include ANY hardware for connections. Or directions to connect for that matter. I've been researching/reading forums for a week now and know most of what to do, but need advice and help for the rest.

My (relevant) background:
-51 years old
-Previous 7 years retail AV sales (Hi-Fi Buys in Atlanta, Pyramid Audio in Anchorage)
-Bad-Fair soldering skills
-Good background with standard/high end AV equipment but no experience with pro-audio equipment (more familiar with 5-way binding posts and RCA connectors than balanced and Speakon)
-Prefer beer to wine

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is my equipment and situation:

current system (relevant only):
- Onkyo TX-NR3007 (has all necessary main outs for external amps)
-Def Tech BP2004 mains (built-in powered subs)
-Def Tech CLR 2300 center (built-in powered sub)
-Def Tech rears
-Small pair Monitor Audio rears as "front wide"
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Future (next week) system:
-Same Onkyo receiver as processor, center amp, and surround amps

-Emerald Physics CS2 mains http://www.positive-feedback.com/Iss...ld_physics.htm
***these are VERY unique and use a Behringer Ultra Drive Pro DCX24 for the crossover http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/DCX2496/
***yes, I realize the center won't match, but that is for later

-Rotel RMB 1075 5-channel amp (to drive the Emerald Physics) http://www.rotel.com/NA/products/Pro...=3&Tab=2&Pic=1

-Dayton 15" Ultimax sub/box https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...ndle--300-7097

-Crown XLS1500 amp (to drive the sub) http://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-a...ries-power-amp

------------------------------------------------

What I THINK I know:
-Since the Behringer has balanced outputs and the Crown XLS1500 has balanced inputs, I think that is a no-brainer. Any suggestions on cable choice or are all balanced pretty much the same?

-I would prefer to use 5-way binding posts instead of Speakeron connectorsfor the Crown to sub connection. Binding post recommendations?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What I don't know and NEED to know (PE Tech was NO help, thus, I am here)
-Given the Crown XLS1500 (please, no recommendations to switch to another amp), how should I connect the 2 driver motors to the box inputs?

My limited brain tells me to stay at 4ohms total load to the Crown. Does this mean I should run 2 separate pairs out from the driver to 4 5-way binding posts (running each voice coil off each of the two crown channels)?
(insert DETAILED recommendations/options/reasons here)

How do I cut/attach the binding posts to the back of the sub box? The printed box instructions don't mention this.

Should I add damping material inside the box? If so, which and how much?

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


I have surely left things out, but the main points are:
-What else do I need to buy? (Don't worry about paint or veneer)
-How should I connect the driver to the box outputs?
-How should I connect the speaker wires from the Crown to the sub (stereo, bridged, 2 ohm, 4 ohm...)?



My head hurts.





Last edited by mtwhickory; 09-21-2015 at 05:00 PM.
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post #50 of 230 Old 09-21-2015, 05:22 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtwhickory View Post
"HELP me Obi Wan, you're my only hope."

I received the Dayton 15" Ultimax driver and box kit today. I didn't realize it did not include ANY hardware for connections. Or directions to connect for that matter. I've been researching/reading forums for a week now and know most of what to do, but need advice and help for the rest.

My (relevant) background:
-51 years old
-Previous 7 years retail AV sales (Hi-Fi Buys in Atlanta, Pyramid Audio in Anchorage)
-Bad-Fair soldering skills
-Good background with standard/high end AV equipment but no experience with pro-audio equipment (more familiar with 5-way binding posts and RCA connectors than balanced and Speakon)
-Prefer beer to wine

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is my equipment and situation:

current system (relevant only):
- Onkyo TX-NR3007 (has all necessary main outs for external amps)
-Def Tech BP2004 mains (built-in powered subs)
-Def Tech CLR 2300 center (built-in powered sub)
-Def Tech rears
-Small pair Monitor Audio rears as "front wide"
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Future (next week) system:
-Same Onkyo receiver as processor, center amp, and surround amps

-Emerald Physics CS2 mains http://www.positive-feedback.com/Iss...ld_physics.htm
***these are VERY unique and use a Behringer Ultra Drive Pro DCX24 for the crossover http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/DCX2496/
***yes, I realize the center won't match, but that is for later

-Rotel RMB 1075 5-channel amp (to drive the Emerald Physics) http://www.rotel.com/NA/products/Pro...=3&Tab=2&Pic=1

-Dayton 15" Ultimax sub/box https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...ndle--300-7097

-Crown XLS1500 amp (to drive the sub) http://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-a...ries-power-amp

------------------------------------------------

What I THINK I know:
-Since the Behringer has balanced outputs and the Crown XLS1500 has balanced inputs, I think that is a no-brainer. Any suggestions on cable choice or are all balanced pretty much the same?

-I would prefer to use 5-way binding posts instead of Speakeron connectorsfor the Crown to sub connection. Binding post recommendations?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What I don't know and NEED to know (PE Tech was NO help, thus, I am here)
-Given the Crown XLS1500 (please, no recommendations to switch to another amp), how should I connect the 2 driver motors to the box inputs?

My limited brain tells me to stay at 4ohms total load to the Crown. Does this mean I should run 2 separate pairs out from the driver to 4 5-way binding posts (running each voice coil off each of the two crown channels)?
(insert DETAILED recommendations/options/reasons here)

How do I cut/attach the binding posts to the back of the sub box? The printed box instructions don't mention this.

Should I add damping material inside the box? If so, which and how much?

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


I have surely left things out, but the main points are:
-What else do I need to buy? (Don't worry about paint or veneer)
-How should I connect the driver to the box outputs?
-How should I connect the speaker wires from the Crown to the sub (stereo, bridged, 2 ohm, 4 ohm...)?



My head hurts.




Well the kit is simply a flatpack box and driver. You need to supply everything else. You could use binding posts like this http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...gold--091-1245 and use a drill with a 1/4" bit. I used speakon, they're just better, especially if you're going to bridge the amp (I would in your case). Wire your two voice coils in series for a 4 ohm load. You can solder wire in place if you want, the binding posts can take crimp connectors.
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post #51 of 230 Old 09-21-2015, 10:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtwhickory View Post
"HELP me Obi Wan, you're my only hope."
As Lovinthehd suggested... I would definitely go balanced from the amplifier to the sub enclosure.

Please take the time to read the previous posts in this thread. I truly tried to do my best at answering all the questions that you posed as well as providing some photos to help anybody else out that takes up this project.

- You'll need to invest in some clamps. I would highly recommend you stop by harbor freight and buy as many as you can afford. I actually borrowed 6 from a friend who was a huge wood worker. I bought 6 myself. There are a few DIY sub threads that illustrate the gluing and clamping process better than I did. My biggest advice is to take your time. Glue each piece together one at a time and make sure you have the edges lined up perfectly before setting the clamp. I found that the glue that I used dried quickly... but it holds like nothing else.

- Pick a finish... maybe since this is your first sub you should do something easy as I have done. There are other options besides the Rustoleum 4x. You can dry the duratex (I was tempted). The gluing and finishing is going to occupy most of your time in this build. Probably can focus on those two tasks first before moving on.

- Need to decide definitively if you want speakON or binding posts. There are plenty of pros to a speakON connector and many many cons to a binding post. I'm not going to list them all here... but you can easily find the answer you are looking for in a quick search. The speakON hole is 15/16" and you'll need a bit for that. It fit like a dream and was super easy to install. The cable I built was equally as easy. I illustrated all that and I think I included links to purchase those items if you are interested in the same. I wouldn't have done things differently at this point in regards to that.

- I don't think you can wire a 2 ohm load with a single driver. I certainly may be wrong (it is late here and I had a few glasses of wine Check out this link for more info on wiring. I think your best and safest bet is going to be 4 ohms bridged. The manual for your amp will tell you how to wire the speakON connector appropriately for this. The UM can be wired using the aforementioned link.

I think I got most of the questions. If there are any more don't hesitate to ask.

EDIT: Damping material. If you got the 15" kit (I think you did...) then you need 3 lbs polyfill. Wal Mart is the best place for this. They had a 3 lbs bag in the crafts section for under $10.
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post #52 of 230 Old 09-22-2015, 04:51 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhughy2010 View Post
As Lovinthehd suggested... I would definitely go balanced from the amplifier to the sub enclosure.

Please take the time to read the previous posts in this thread. I truly tried to do my best at answering all the questions that you posed as well as providing some photos to help anybody else out that takes up this project.

- You'll need to invest in some clamps. I would highly recommend you stop by harbor freight and buy as many as you can afford. I actually borrowed 6 from a friend who was a huge wood worker. I bought 6 myself. There are a few DIY sub threads that illustrate the gluing and clamping process better than I did. My biggest advice is to take your time. Glue each piece together one at a time and make sure you have the edges lined up perfectly before setting the clamp. I found that the glue that I used dried quickly... but it holds like nothing else.

- Pick a finish... maybe since this is your first sub you should do something easy as I have done. There are other options besides the Rustoleum 4x. You can dry the duratex (I was tempted). The gluing and finishing is going to occupy most of your time in this build. Probably can focus on those two tasks first before moving on.

- Need to decide definitively if you want speakON or binding posts. There are plenty of pros to a speakON connector and many many cons to a binding post. I'm not going to list them all here... but you can easily find the answer you are looking for in a quick search. The speakON hole is 15/16" and you'll need a bit for that. It fit like a dream and was super easy to install. The cable I built was equally as easy. I illustrated all that and I think I included links to purchase those items if you are interested in the same. I wouldn't have done things differently at this point in regards to that.

- I don't think you can wire a 2 ohm load with a single driver. I certainly may be wrong (it is late here and I had a few glasses of wine Check out this link for more info on wiring. I think your best and safest bet is going to be 4 ohms bridged. The manual for your amp will tell you how to wire the speakON connector appropriately for this. The UM can be wired using the aforementioned link.

I think I got most of the questions. If there are any more don't hesitate to ask.

EDIT: Damping material. If you got the 15" kit (I think you did...) then you need 3 lbs polyfill. Wal Mart is the best place for this. They had a 3 lbs bag in the crafts section for under $10.
I suggested speakon and that is not a balanced connector....it's a speaker cable.
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post #53 of 230 Old 09-22-2015, 07:03 AM
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OK, Speakon it is.


Let's all get INSIDE the box and concentrate on the driver to box wiring. I THINK I'm going to wire it in series as JL describes below, so I will have a 4 ohm load to the Crown XLS1500.


1 DVC driver with Voice Coils in Series
DVC Series 1
Connecting the two voice coils of the driver in series (+ to -) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofer: 12 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 8 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 3 Ohms



1) Regarding wiring the driver to the box, any recommendations on which specific wire to use? I planned on using OFC 12g.

2) Any particular speakon output box?

3) My inclination would be to use spades on the speaker terminals and crimp on for the speakon box.

4) Any SPECIFIC speakon terminal box brand or weblink?

5) I don't have any inclination to make my own speakon cables, so pre-made suggestions only, please. Brand preferences or weblink?

In the absence of specific suggestions, I usually just go to PE and look for the item with the most reviews, read them, and decide from there. One of the benefits of this forum is I can simply let all those who went before tell me what works best. The zip ties on the driver screw holes, for instance is a good idea.

Thanks
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post #54 of 230 Old 09-22-2015, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
I suggested speakon and that is not a balanced connector....it's a speaker cable.
Yes I stand corrected... speakON is unbalanced

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtwhickory View Post
1) Regarding wiring the driver to the box, any recommendations on which specific wire to use? I planned on using OFC 12g.
I shared a link on what wire I used on page 1... here it is again. 12 gauge wire will not work with the female disconnects I shared on post #1 of this thread.

Quote:
2) Any particular speakon output box?
Check post #1 my recommendation is still the same today.

Quote:
3) My inclination would be to use spades on the speaker terminals and crimp on for the speakon box.
I'm not sure what spades are... I used female disconnects. You can also solder the speaker wire.

Quote:
4) Any SPECIFIC speakon terminal box brand or weblink?
Post #1

Quote:
5) I don't have any inclination to make my own speakon cables, so pre-made suggestions only, please. Brand preferences or weblink?
I would make my own... I'm not sure if you can take the pre-made ones apart o wire for bridge mode (see page 4 of the XLS Series Operation Manual). Besides, you already will have 25 feet of speaker cable if you buy the Monoprice speaker cable recommended. Why not use 15 feet of it for a cable and buy two connectors (post #1 )? It takes 5 minutes to make a speaker cable with speakON connectors. It takes about 20 minutes if you want to put a sleeve on it like I did (definitely not required).
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post #55 of 230 Old 09-22-2015, 10:22 AM
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Maybe you should start the beer first.

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
Welcome to AVS - Get out while you still can!
Don't guess, measure: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/91-au...l#post22789786
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post #56 of 230 Old 09-22-2015, 11:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Maybe you should start the beer first.
I have a feeling brewing the beer is going to be far and away more difficult to building this sub!!!
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post #57 of 230 Old 09-22-2015, 01:04 PM
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It's not that building the sub is difficult, it's just that I prefer to do it right the first time. Ask, understand, build.

It takes a minimum of 4 weeks to brew beer. This batch is a stout with Count Chocula added. I'll call it "Down For the Count Stout". Attached is a picture of my kegerator. Until then, I'll drink other people's brew.
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post #58 of 230 Old 09-22-2015, 01:19 PM - Thread Starter
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This batch is a stout with Count Chocula added. I'll call it "Down For the Count Stout". Attached is a picture of my kegerator. Until then, I'll drink other people's brew.
I have a good friend that just got done with this same Stout recipe. It's just finishing up, can't wait to try it.
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post #59 of 230 Old 09-22-2015, 04:40 PM
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I'm waiting for the Count to hit the shelves. It's only sold near Halloween. Amazon sellers caught on and upped the price to about $10/box when it's not in stores. Maybe I'll buy all the boxes and sell them online, too. I might be able to pay for the sub with the profit!

Step 2 finished.
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post #60 of 230 Old 09-22-2015, 04:49 PM
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The kegerator.
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