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post #61 of 86 Old 10-21-2015, 07:46 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll be getting the 13 ply 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood on Friday. Unfortunately it only comes in 5' X 5' sheets so I think I'll need 3 sheets for the two 22" cubes. That sound right?

Front L&R: Polk RTi A3 (cherry finish)
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post #62 of 86 Old 10-21-2015, 08:01 PM
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try calling around. My local Lowes was getting me 4x8 sheets for around $75

I hate to be the one to tell you this but, youre going to do all that work making your sub match your speakers, and then youre going to sell the speakers. youll see

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post #63 of 86 Old 10-21-2015, 08:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Lowes and Home Depot around here told me they couldn't get real Baltic Birch. And no, I love those speakers. When I get a house I may build some if I have a dedicated theater, but the Polk's will always be in a living room or bedroom system. They are near and dear to my heart lol.
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Front L&R: Polk RTi A3 (cherry finish)
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Surrounds: Polk FXi A6 (black finish)
Subwoofer: Dual Sealed SI-HT 18" with iNuke 3000dsp
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post #64 of 86 Old 10-21-2015, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zpatter1 View Post
Lowes and Home Depot around here told me they couldn't get real Baltic Birch. And no, I love those speakers. When I get a house I may build some if I have a dedicated theater, but the Polk's will always be in a living room or bedroom system. They are near and dear to my heart lol.

Interesting. Maybe it depends on the supplier. They did have to special order it for me

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post #65 of 86 Old 10-21-2015, 08:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Yea I asked about special order. A few people had luck with them so I tried them first. But the 5'x5' sheets are only $45 each so it's essentially the same price as two $75 sheets.

Front L&R: Polk RTi A3 (cherry finish)
Center: Polk CSi A6 (cherry finish)
Surrounds: Polk FXi A6 (black finish)
Subwoofer: Dual Sealed SI-HT 18" with iNuke 3000dsp
Receiver: Yamaha RX-V673
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post #66 of 86 Old 10-21-2015, 08:14 PM
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Real BB plywood (13 equal plys) is almost always 5'x5' sheets. That's just how it comes.

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post #67 of 86 Old 10-21-2015, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post
try calling around. My local Lowes was getting me 4x8 sheets for around $75

I hate to be the one to tell you this but, youre going to do all that work making your sub match your speakers, and then youre going to sell the speakers. youll see
True baltic birch ply is NEVER found in 4x8 sheets, it is standardized at 5x5 for the cabinet industry.
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post #68 of 86 Old 10-21-2015, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zpatter1 View Post
Yea I asked about special order. A few people had luck with them so I tried them first. But the 5'x5' sheets are only $45 each so it's essentially the same price as two $75 sheets.
oh thats not bad then

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Real BB plywood (13 equal plys) is almost always 5'x5' sheets. That's just how it comes.

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I know but I swear this was 4x8 sheets of real 13 ply BB. It did have footballs on one side. I have used the cheap stuff before and this was not that.

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post #69 of 86 Old 10-21-2015, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post
oh thats not bad then



I know but I swear this was 4x8 sheets of real 13 ply BB. It did have footballs on one side. I have used the cheap stuff before and this was not that.
You may be right. .. different importer maybe.

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post #70 of 86 Old 10-21-2015, 08:24 PM - Thread Starter
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I've got to use the cut list maker to figure out the cuts to make sure 3 sheets is enough. I'm planning to just use random scrap wood for the bracing. Not an issue if the braces are random pieces or random types of wood I assume?

Front L&R: Polk RTi A3 (cherry finish)
Center: Polk CSi A6 (cherry finish)
Surrounds: Polk FXi A6 (black finish)
Subwoofer: Dual Sealed SI-HT 18" with iNuke 3000dsp
Receiver: Yamaha RX-V673
TV: 55" LCD
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post #71 of 86 Old 10-21-2015, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post
I know but I swear this was 4x8 sheets of real 13 ply BB. It did have footballs on one side. I have used the cheap stuff before and this was not that.

The 4x8 sheets sold as BB do NOT come from Russia or Finland, 99% of it can be traced to China. That said BB is not all the same and there are true BB suppliers that sell lower quality BB that is even lower quality than the Chinese "BB". The lowest quality BB tends to have better outer veneer layers than the best Chinese "BB" but the best Chinese "BB" has fewer voids than the low quality European BB.

The best way to find quality BB is find the supplier to the better custom cabinet shops in the area, it is usually better quality and lower in price than the lumber yards that stock it as a niche product.
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post #72 of 86 Old 10-22-2015, 07:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quite annoyed that with the sheets being 5x5 I'm going to need 2 sheets per sub

Front L&R: Polk RTi A3 (cherry finish)
Center: Polk CSi A6 (cherry finish)
Surrounds: Polk FXi A6 (black finish)
Subwoofer: Dual Sealed SI-HT 18" with iNuke 3000dsp
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post #73 of 86 Old 10-23-2015, 06:02 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm getting either 9 ply birch or 9 ply cherry cabinet grade plywood. It rained today so I couldn't bring home the Baltic birch and have no desire to drive that far again to get it.

Front L&R: Polk RTi A3 (cherry finish)
Center: Polk CSi A6 (cherry finish)
Surrounds: Polk FXi A6 (black finish)
Subwoofer: Dual Sealed SI-HT 18" with iNuke 3000dsp
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post #74 of 86 Old 10-24-2015, 11:36 AM - Thread Starter
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And changed my mind again...I think I'm going for 3/4" cherry veneered MDF lol. But I can't buy anything until this stupid rain stops.

Front L&R: Polk RTi A3 (cherry finish)
Center: Polk CSi A6 (cherry finish)
Surrounds: Polk FXi A6 (black finish)
Subwoofer: Dual Sealed SI-HT 18" with iNuke 3000dsp
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post #75 of 86 Old 10-30-2015, 09:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Big update: I just signed a lease for a new apartment! This means that the subs will have a nice large space to fill! And I only have a neighbor on one side, so I hopefully won't have noise complaints!

What does everyone do who uses plywood for the edges? I don't want the mdf center to show along the edges...should I veneer just the edges? Use scrap to put on there?

Front L&R: Polk RTi A3 (cherry finish)
Center: Polk CSi A6 (cherry finish)
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post #76 of 86 Old 10-30-2015, 10:03 AM
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45 degree miter joints.
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post #77 of 86 Old 10-30-2015, 12:54 PM
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I would use a lock miter joint but that requires a router table or shaper and they are somewhat difficult to setup. A 45 degree miter will work fine but increases the difficulty of the glue up. It would be really nice if you had a 23ga pinner to help as they basically disappear. Wide blue tape across the whole joint so that you can fold the sides up (like closing a book) into position to clamp them helps. Be very careful as you add clamp pressure that you don't slide the pieces out of position.

A lock miter joint

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post #78 of 86 Old 11-01-2015, 06:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks @PsychoM3 and @Face2 but will that work with an MDF core? 45 degree mitre is no problem and I have a brad nailer so no need for clamping anyway. The locking mitre seems much much harder lol.

Front L&R: Polk RTi A3 (cherry finish)
Center: Polk CSi A6 (cherry finish)
Surrounds: Polk FXi A6 (black finish)
Subwoofer: Dual Sealed SI-HT 18" with iNuke 3000dsp
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post #79 of 86 Old 11-01-2015, 10:09 AM
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[QUOTE=zpatter1;38561537but will that work with an MDF core? 45 degree mitre is no problem and I have a brad nailer so no need for clamping anyway. The locking mitre seems much much harder lol.[/QUOTE]

Usually veneered MDF is dense enough to hold a 45 and glue. I would try not to use brads from the front since they will be visible, that is why I mentioned a 23ga pinner. It will help if you have a way to use biscuits, dowels or Dominos. You should also glue in cleats behind each corner to reinforce them.

I would try to avoid using brads since you want to preserve the veneer, you can get a pinner at Harbor Freight that people seem to be able to get away with for about $20, but I think you can do it without any nail holed in the outside.

I think my approach (with no lock miter) would be to glue the cleats on the front baffle and each one of the sides, then use tape on the and fold them all up so that you can brad from the back side through the cleats. The I would use clamps. Once that is dried I would put the cleats on the back put it into place and brad through the cleats through the baffle hole. Then clamp the back on until it is dry.

This is what I am talking about with the tape, though you will need more tape for the heavy parts. I would not do the whole perimeter like this though. I would have the four sides taped to the baffle like a cross.




A cleat

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post #80 of 86 Old 11-01-2015, 06:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the thorough response and pictures. I'm always impressed with how much everyone helps out on here. Can't wait to get finished with my move and get the subs finished.

Front L&R: Polk RTi A3 (cherry finish)
Center: Polk CSi A6 (cherry finish)
Surrounds: Polk FXi A6 (black finish)
Subwoofer: Dual Sealed SI-HT 18" with iNuke 3000dsp
Receiver: Yamaha RX-V673
TV: 55" LCD
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post #81 of 86 Old 11-01-2015, 07:40 PM
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It just hit me if you make the bottom of the box so it fits INSIDE the side walls then they won't have to be mitered and can be a simple butt joint since the bottom will never show. This may make putting the first five sides together much easier and with less chance of the miter joints sliding.
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post #82 of 86 Old 11-20-2015, 12:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Wood has been purchased. I went with 3/4" mdf that already has a cherry veneer on it. Let the building commence!

Front L&R: Polk RTi A3 (cherry finish)
Center: Polk CSi A6 (cherry finish)
Surrounds: Polk FXi A6 (black finish)
Subwoofer: Dual Sealed SI-HT 18" with iNuke 3000dsp
Receiver: Yamaha RX-V673
TV: 55" LCD
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post #83 of 86 Old 02-05-2016, 04:18 PM - Thread Starter
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The wood has finally been cut! Just have to cut the circular holes for the baffles and the speakon connector hole!

Front L&R: Polk RTi A3 (cherry finish)
Center: Polk CSi A6 (cherry finish)
Surrounds: Polk FXi A6 (black finish)
Subwoofer: Dual Sealed SI-HT 18" with iNuke 3000dsp
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post #84 of 86 Old 02-29-2016, 09:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Sub build is going well thanks to my Dad! He has made very very nice boxes for me. I added pics to the first post but I have a question. Since the wood is cherry veneered MDF, you can see the MDF edges on some sides. We were thinking of handling this with some trim/something decorative. Any ideas? You can see what I'm talking about in the attached pic...
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Front L&R: Polk RTi A3 (cherry finish)
Center: Polk CSi A6 (cherry finish)
Surrounds: Polk FXi A6 (black finish)
Subwoofer: Dual Sealed SI-HT 18" with iNuke 3000dsp
Receiver: Yamaha RX-V673
TV: 55" LCD
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post #85 of 86 Old 03-30-2016, 12:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Boxes are now built. What do I need to hook the iNuke 3000 dsp to the SI HT18 D4s? I'm planning to wire them to 2 ohms. I know I need a neutrik speakon connector, but which one? 2 or 4 prong? And what cable...xlr or ts? Don't know anything about these. Also my receiver that the iNuke will be connected to is a Yamaha RXV673. Should be up and running very soon!

Front L&R: Polk RTi A3 (cherry finish)
Center: Polk CSi A6 (cherry finish)
Surrounds: Polk FXi A6 (black finish)
Subwoofer: Dual Sealed SI-HT 18" with iNuke 3000dsp
Receiver: Yamaha RX-V673
TV: 55" LCD
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post #86 of 86 Old 03-30-2016, 06:19 PM
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I'd run a bead of caulking on ALL the interior seams myself, run a bead along the seam, and smooth it into the joints with your finger, noone is gonna see it.

Polyfill? Most recommend 1lb per cu.
Most buy 4pole neutrik because it gives you wiring options later if you decide to change stuff up, only 2 pole is necessary.

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