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post #31 of 187 Old 11-03-2015, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by More is Better View Post
It may be less stable / be more prone to rocking if it's on thick carpet. But there is no mechanical reason that you can't.

maybe mount the driver lower to fight the rocking? lower the center of gravity? or would the driver being closer to the port opening effect something?
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post #32 of 187 Old 11-03-2015, 02:43 PM
 
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Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post
maybe mount the driver lower to fight the rocking? lower the center of gravity? or would the driver being closer to the port opening effect something?


You would have to move the bracing around. But as long as you have braces every 8 inches or so, that is fine to do.
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post #33 of 187 Old 11-04-2015, 07:11 AM
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Cyclops 18

Nice sub design. One quick question. Do you cover the bottom and sides with foam or just add polyfill or is the inside of the box just plain empty ?

Alain

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post #34 of 187 Old 11-04-2015, 11:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by apilon View Post
Nice sub design. One quick question. Do you cover the bottom and sides with foam or just add polyfill or is the inside of the box just plain empty ?
Alain
there are various theories on this one. a couple of walmart/polyfill type pillows behind the driver would be fine, just to keep any sharp internal resonances down. the foam lining approach can serve essentially the same purpose. there is a good article on data-bass on stuffing cabs with measured results.

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post #35 of 187 Old 11-06-2015, 08:14 AM
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Cyclops complete!

Firstly, this forum has been really helpful over the past 4 years as I designed and built out my dedicated theater - and a sealed UM15.

Cyclops was an appealing design for me particularly because of the depth. I picked up one of the SI HT18 D2 speakers (before the sale) and to say that I'm happy with the combination is an understatement! This thing is just plain amazing and I thought my two existing subs were doing quite well...until I fired this one up. I'm using one channel of an EP4000 (the other channel is running the UM15 sealed sub) with minidsp. I have a 20Hz high pass in place, but no other EQ applied to Cyclops yet as I'm still learning REW...but this weekend I expect to spend more time on that.



Initial listening impressions with music are that the low bass is now completely effortless. The Eagles: Live from Melbourne is just wonderful. You feel every kick from the bass drum and yet the sound feels natural, not too much bottom end. It digs way, way deeper than the other two subwoofers are capable of. For movies, I actually jumped during a scene from Jurassic World. You feel every footstep that a dinosaur makes, yet I didn't feel that is was "too loud". The listening levels were about the same as usual, but the low bass now fills out the sound such that you feel it in the chairs and then some. :-) I've been told that if I'm watching by myself, I need to "keep it down" or turn off the new sub as now the sound travels throughout the whole house despite the massive amount of sound insulation that went into the theater when we built it.



The above pic shows how it fits the stage. The screen is a 140" curved unit with Paradigm Studio Reference 60 mains. The Paradigm center channel speaker is between Cyclops and the other two subs: the UM15 4 cu ft sealed unit and a Paradigm Servo 15 that I've had for years.

Thank you all for these great designs! This one absolutely rocks and if you're on the fence, just do it.

Andrew
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post #36 of 187 Old 11-06-2015, 08:26 AM - Thread Starter
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now there's a first post! FANTASTIC!
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post #37 of 187 Old 11-06-2015, 10:56 AM
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If the reflections are an issue, Royalty Velvet #3 black, from Jo-ann's, is a go to choice as an easily "temporary" on-off solution.

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post #38 of 187 Old 11-06-2015, 11:01 AM
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Great suggestion! I may do that. So far, it hasn't been observed as an issue (the lighting for picture taking is tough) but it may also be that I'm not paying any attention to the visuals at this time :-)

Andrew
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post #39 of 187 Old 11-06-2015, 11:33 AM
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So now that Cyclops is up and running I find myself asking if I should build another one and put the UM15 in it? That would allow more visual symmetry...

If that was an option, what changes would you make to the cabinet to work with the UM15?

Andrew
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post #40 of 187 Old 11-06-2015, 08:19 PM
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Just wanted to thank @LTD02 for this design. I will be using it (thank you very much!) for my four UM18s. Could get the size cab I needed in a format that would fit my space; and then I saw this design. I will stack 2 cabs/2 stacks and use mending plates to bolt the cabs together to avoid the top one sliding off. Thanks, LTD02!
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post #41 of 187 Old 11-06-2015, 10:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vRAE View Post
So now that Cyclops is up and running I find myself asking if I should build another one and put the UM15 in it? That would allow more visual symmetry...
If that was an option, what changes would you make to the cabinet to work with the UM15?
Andrew

no changes necessary for um15. that driver likes a largish cab too.


might want to limit power to about 1000 watts in order to keep excursion under control.

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post #42 of 187 Old 11-06-2015, 10:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by michaelddd View Post
just wanted to thank @ltd02 for this design. I will be using it (thank you very much!) for my four um18s. Could get the size cab i needed in a format that would fit my space; and then i saw this design. I will stack 2 cabs/2 stacks and use mending plates to bolt the cabs together to avoid the top one sliding off. Thanks, ltd02!

aAWESʘME!

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post #43 of 187 Old 11-07-2015, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
no changes necessary for um15. that driver likes a largish cab too.


might want to limit power to about 1000 watts in order to keep excursion under control.
That's great news indeed!

Thanks again for a great design @LTD02

Andrew
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post #44 of 187 Old 11-08-2015, 08:45 AM
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Very cool and well presented. You keep rʘcking the DIY world with your designs!
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post #45 of 187 Old 12-18-2015, 10:07 AM
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Hey guys, not much to add here yet, I have a few pics of my Cyclops 18 builds. Once I complete the subs, i'll add a bit to the thread. Wanted to say thanks again to LTD02, great info in here! The only issue I had was Light Purple and Purple appear to be Pink/Magenta and a dark Fuchsia to me.... But based on the name I figured out what was what on the cutlist etc.

I'll have 2 of these with UM18s in them driven by a iNuke6KDSP, just planning on finishing them with duratex as they will be hidden behind the AT screen.

For my LCR I'll have the 1099s behind the AT screen also, with these 2 subs below the 1099s (acting as stands).

The last pic is where the subs will lay with the 1099s above them, with an AT screen in front and a speaker grill frame to cover up the remaining bottom half of the wall.
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post #46 of 187 Old 12-18-2015, 10:21 AM
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Hey guys, not much to add here yet, I have a few pics of my Cyclops 18 builds. Once I complete the subs, i'll add a bit to the thread. Wanted to say thanks again to LTD02, great info in here! The only issue I had was Light Purple and Purple appear to be Pink/Magenta and a dark Fuchsia to me.... But based on the name I figured out what was what on the cutlist etc.

I'll have 2 of these with UM18s in them driven by a iNuke6KDSP, just planning on finishing them with duratex as they will be hidden behind the AT screen.

For my LCR I'll have the 1099s behind the AT screen also, with these 2 subs below the 1099s (acting as stands).

The last pic is where the subs will lay with the 1099s above them, with an AT screen in front and a speaker grill frame to cover up the remaining bottom half of the wall.

thats going to be a very nice room! Im also planning on two of these up front with 1099's so I'm interested in hearing what you think and also how well they work as stands.

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post #47 of 187 Old 12-18-2015, 10:29 AM
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thats going to be a very nice room! Im also planning on two of these up front with 1099's so I'm interested in hearing what you think and also how well they work as stands.
Thanks!

Im looking forward to it, hoping to have it all done prior to the Rose Bowl so we can watch the game (Go Hawks).

I'll keep you posted on initial impressions etc. Went with a 7.1.4 setup using a Denon 6200, so I hope it all sounds good. I went with Monoprice Kevlar surrounds and ceiling speakers for the rest as they sound decent and should be able to keep up (as far as surrounds go) with the LCR.
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post #48 of 187 Old 12-18-2015, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ericnhitterdal View Post
Hey guys, not much to add here yet, I have a few pics of my Cyclops 18 builds. Once I complete the subs, i'll add a bit to the thread. Wanted to say thanks again to LTD02, great info in here! The only issue I had was Light Purple and Purple appear to be Pink/Magenta and a dark Fuchsia to me.... But based on the name I figured out what was what on the cutlist etc.

I'll have 2 of these with UM18s in them driven by a iNuke6KDSP, just planning on finishing them with duratex as they will be hidden behind the AT screen.

For my LCR I'll have the 1099s behind the AT screen also, with these 2 subs below the 1099s (acting as stands).

The last pic is where the subs will lay with the 1099s above them, with an AT screen in front and a speaker grill frame to cover up the remaining bottom half of the wall.
Is it me or are you missing a side piece to the port opening on one side of that enclosure? Maybe its an optical illiusion? Just looks like the side doesn't extend all the way to the end of the port opening...

Otherwise they look great, love the 2x4 bracing!
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post #49 of 187 Old 12-18-2015, 12:35 PM
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Thanks!

Im looking forward to it, hoping to have it all done prior to the Rose Bowl so we can watch the game (Go Hawks).

I'll keep you posted on initial impressions etc. Went with a 7.1.4 setup using a Denon 6200, so I hope it all sounds good. I went with Monoprice Kevlar surrounds and ceiling speakers for the rest as they sound decent and should be able to keep up (as far as surrounds go) with the LCR.
sounds good...............Sparty on!

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post #50 of 187 Old 12-18-2015, 12:36 PM
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Is it me or are you missing a side piece to the port opening on one side of that enclosure? Maybe its an optical illiusion? Just looks like the side doesn't extend all the way to the end of the port opening...

Otherwise they look great, love the 2x4 bracing!
Yup, the pictures aren't in chronological order, sorry.

Also, its 2x3 bracing. I was contemplating a recessed baffle hole for the driver, but they will be hidden behind a screen anyway, so I will probably skip that and also skip on roundovers. I have to finish the roundovers on my 1099s as I completed one already. I am NOT a pro with a router.
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post #51 of 187 Old 12-18-2015, 12:38 PM
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sounds good...............Sparty on!

Ha

I gotta say, it was a very close game. I'm just glad the BIG10 is representing this year in the playoffs!

So GO BIG10!
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post #52 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 08:24 AM
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Hey guys, so I didn't think ahead far enough.... I maybe should have made a left/right Cyclops 18, so the port would go out the left/right respectively.

So now I think Im left with putting space between the two subs and putting an MDF board/plate between the two to support a 1099.

Any thoughts or opinions on this? Should I attach the board to the subs? I'd prefer not too... im hoping maybe some felt or rubber feet and the weight of the 1099 will keep it in place.

This will all be done between two walls (as seen in the picture). This is a baffle wall with an AT screen on the top, and the bottom will have a big frame with mellotone (speaker grill fabric) on it

@LTD02
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post #53 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 08:45 AM
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Hey guys, so I didn't think ahead far enough.... I maybe should have made a left/right Cyclops 18, so the port would go out the left/right respectively.

So now I think Im left with putting space between the two subs and putting an MDF board/plate between the two to support a 1099.

Any thoughts or opinions on this? Should I attach the board to the subs? I'd prefer not too... im hoping maybe some felt or rubber feet and the weight of the 1099 will keep it in place.

This will all be done between two walls (as seen in the picture). This is a baffle wall with an AT screen on the top, and the bottom will have a big frame with mellotone (speaker grill fabric) on it

@LTD02
Oh man, that's a bummer, but I think it should still work fine. You'll just want to make sure the space between the 2 subs is at least 3-4", the larger the better. Also, I think a piece of wood between the 2 subs should work fine, but you'd probably want to at least tack it into place with some finish nails or something so it doesn't move around. The 1099's are heavy enough it should stay in place, but if it were me I'd want to tack it down just for piece of mind since you won't be able to see them with the AT screen in place.

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post #54 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 08:56 AM
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Oh man, that's a bummer, but I think it should still work fine. You'll just want to make sure the space between the 2 subs is at least 3-4", the larger the better. Also, I think a piece of wood between the 2 subs should work fine, but you'd probably want to at least tack it into place with some finish nails or something so it doesn't move around. The 1099's are heavy enough it should stay in place, but if it were me I'd want to tack it down just for piece of mind since you won't be able to see them with the AT screen in place.
Thats a good point, I could do that and it wouldn't leave much of a hole in the sub to fill if I have to pull it out in the future.

I'll try to find some rubber feet, I have some felt pads that would probably work ok, but they aren't black.
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post #55 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 09:00 AM
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Thats a good point, I could do that and it wouldn't leave much of a hole in the sub to fill if I have to pull it out in the future.

I'll try to find some rubber feet, I have some felt pads that would probably work ok, but they aren't black.
If you don't want to attach feet to the 1099's, look into some sorbothane discs. You can find them in a bunch of different size on Amazon. They are very grippy and will reduce the amount of vibrations that might transfer from the subs to the mains and vic versa.

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post #56 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 10:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey guys, so I didn't think ahead far enough.... I maybe should have made a left/right Cyclops 18, so the port would go out the left/right respectively.

So now I think Im left with putting space between the two subs and putting an MDF board/plate between the two to support a 1099.

Any thoughts or opinions on this? Should I attach the board to the subs? I'd prefer not too... im hoping maybe some felt or rubber feet and the weight of the 1099 will keep it in place.

This will all be done between two walls (as seen in the picture). This is a baffle wall with an AT screen on the top, and the bottom will have a big frame with mellotone (speaker grill fabric) on it

@LTD02

that should work just fine.


another option might be to stand them on end in between the speakers if that helps anything.


also, if you need to keep things from sliding around, there is this thin rubber beaded matt stuff that is designed to go under area rugs that are put over hard wood floors. (it can be easily cut with scissors to any size)
http://www.amazon.com/Grip-It-Non-Sl...9J8GPPEY8HMRBX


home depot carries it and even some places like walmart may have something similar and low cost.

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post #57 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 10:21 AM
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I know you mentioned the hst-18, but if I have an extra HT-18D2 lying around, will it work in this enclosure?
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post #58 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 10:34 AM
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that should work just fine.


another option might be to stand them on end in between the speakers if that helps anything.


also, if you need to keep things from sliding around, there is this thin rubber beaded matt stuff that is designed to go under area rugs that are put over hard wood floors. (it can be easily cut with scissors to any size)
http://www.amazon.com/Grip-It-Non-Sl...9J8GPPEY8HMRBX


home depot carries it and even some places like walmart may have something similar and low cost.
Thanks for the response LTD02. I don't have much time to build stands for the 1099s, and was planning on getting this all done by Christmas or by Jan 1st at the latest, so I think i'll go with the local option of the non slip rug pad. I had some of that at one point i used for lining some tool drawers... anyway, thanks again for all the info and all the work you guys do!

When its all done and setup ill take some more pics of the theater room.
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post #59 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 11:17 AM
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another option might be to stand them on end in between the speakers if that helps anything.

or just have one "upside down" with both non port ends together in the middle. Ports facing the walls. one driver will appear to be higher than the other but if its covered up anyway, who cares?

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post #60 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post
or just have one "upside down" with both non port ends together in the middle. Ports facing the walls. one driver will appear to be higher than the other but if its covered up anyway, who cares?
Yeah, that was my initial thought, and would probably work ok, I'm wondering if I need more spacing between my LCR though, the baffle wall is 120" wide, and the subs are only 8 feet wide, so i thought splitting them apart would be the best, thanks for chiming in though.
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