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post #61 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 12:07 PM
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you want good spacing but you dont want the L/R in the corners either.

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post #62 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 12:11 PM
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I 2nd the slot ports facing the walls. I have 4-18's behind my screen with the slot ports facing the outer walls and if they were facing towards the middle the screen would shake even more than what it all ready does.
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post #63 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eng-399 View Post
I 2nd the slot ports facing the walls. I have 4-18's behind my screen with the slot ports facing the outer walls and if they were facing towards the middle the screen would shake even more than what it all ready does.

My subs won't be as high as yours, so the ports will be well below the AT screen, and there will be speaker grill cloth over the frame on the bottom half of the wall so should be plenty of space for air to move.

Another thing, is if I put the other cab "upside down" I don't want to put spikes on the top of the cab in case I ever need to move them down the road....

Below will be what it looks like with the screen (with the subs below the bottom of the AT screen.

Guess it may just be a trial and error thing.... Thanks for the input guys.
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post #64 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnhitterdal View Post
My subs won't be as high as yours, so the ports will be well below the AT screen, and there will be speaker grill cloth over the frame on the bottom half of the wall so should be plenty of space for air to move.



Another thing, is if I put the other cab "upside down" I don't want to put spikes on the top of the cab in case I ever need to move them down the road....



Below will be what it looks like with the screen (with the subs below the bottom of the AT screen.



Guess it may just be a trial and error thing.... Thanks for the input guys.

Looks like your going to be good via the picture you posted. The only time the screen does shake is when turned up well above reference but besides that it's fine back there. With yours you will have plenty of room for the slot ports to breath.
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post #65 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 01:44 PM
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You should avoid pitting the L and R in corners.

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post #66 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post
You should avoid pitting the L and R in corners.
Agreed, they will be away from the rear wall a ways (24" deep wall and 14" speaker, so approximately 10" from rear wall, and I won't have them too close to the side walls.

I really wanted towers for the fronts and had to build walls to hide them, so I knew some sacrifices had to be made. I should be able to move them around a bit to find the best position. If its with the subs back to back and firing outward, then thats the way I'll go. I don't really want the subs in the corners either.
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post #67 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 02:26 PM
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its usually good to have the subs in corners.

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post #68 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post
its usually good to have the subs in corners.
Agreed as its a great db multiplier (3db per wall I thought) but it can also muddy up the mix, and i need to allow room for the ports to breathe.

Thanks for the insight. I'm looking forward to get this going in the next few nights.... need to finish up a 2nd coat of duratex on the subs, install all of the xovers and speakers in the 1099s, install the sub drivers etc.

Then I need to build my screen frame and speaker grill frame.
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post #69 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by thisisntbic View Post
I know you mentioned the hst-18, but if I have an extra HT-18D2 lying around, will it work in this enclosure?
Mine is built with that driver and I'm delighted with it. See a few posts up.

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post #70 of 187 Old 12-21-2015, 04:50 PM
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I am having a tough time deciding on cyclops or martys for some uxl18s.
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post #71 of 187 Old 12-22-2015, 07:36 AM - Thread Starter
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I am having a tough time deciding on cyclops or martys for some uxl18s.

which form factor would fit in your room best?

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post #72 of 187 Old 12-22-2015, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
which form factor would fit in your room best?
First off, thank you for your designs and knowledge in these forums!

In reality, I could fit either one but also extra space can be useful.

The area will be half of a 24x24ft room, so 12x24 theater area but all open on one side.

Even though the cyclops is only 6 inches narrower, I think it will be more versatile for positioning because they will protrude into the room 25% less.

I am building 2 boxes. The room sim in REW is favoring one at center front wall (half room)and one at center back, so I am hoping that will be my best starting point.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/91-aud...-software.html

Modelling both cabs, the marty box shows 3db more at 18hz but very little change anywhere else.

I guess my biggest dilemma is because I haven't heard either one, I don't know if the trade-off is worth it.

This is all a learning experience for me.

I guess I am just being 18hz greedy...
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post #73 of 187 Old 12-22-2015, 07:57 PM
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John, nice mods! For anyone who is interested here's the thread for the originals

CYCLOPS....a new LTD02 design

https://www.avsforum.com/showthread.php?t=1529080

KEEP THE CYCLOPS ALIVE!!!!!



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post #74 of 187 Old 12-22-2015, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Claybe View Post
John, nice mods! For anyone who is interested here's the thread for the originals

CYCLOPS....a new LTD02 design

https://www.avsforum.com/showthread.php?t=1529080

KEEP THE CYCLOPS ALIVE!!!!!



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dead link...
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post #75 of 187 Old 12-22-2015, 08:14 PM
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Hmmm came up in tapatalk for me but might be dead....maybe that's why he updated it?!?


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post #76 of 187 Old 12-23-2015, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Claybe View Post
Hmmm came up in tapatalk for me but might be dead....maybe that's why he updated it?!?


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I believe this is the link: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...02-design.html
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post #77 of 187 Old 12-23-2015, 11:17 AM
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Ok, thank you.
I see there is a 16" deep version of what I was looking at along with many other shapes
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post #78 of 187 Old 01-03-2016, 09:35 AM
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Does the rule for distance between a wall and port opening differ between slot ports and round ones?

would 6" be enough space between the port opening and a wall for this design?

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post #79 of 187 Old 01-03-2016, 11:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post
Does the rule for distance between a wall and port opening differ between slot ports and round ones?

would 6" be enough space between the port opening and a wall for this design?

that should be fine. as you encroach on the port, the boundary actually serves to increase the effective port length. this starts to happen at somewhere around 1 port height from the boundary. unless you are crushing the port right up against a boundary, the only 'downside' is the effective tuning point of the cab may drop a hertz or two (so in some cases that can actually be an advantage).
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post #80 of 187 Old 01-05-2016, 08:43 AM
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Here are some follow up pictures of the Cyclops 18 and 1099s on top of them.

I followed LTD02s advice and built the lower part to be a speaker grill with a frame etc. It all came together pretty well, and sounds great. I also run a 12" Cerwin Vega sub with a Bash 500 amp right behind the sectional, which helps with some nearfield punch/feeling.

I also added some WIFI Controlled LED strips to the perimeter of the screen.

In total, its a 7.3.4 setup with 2 of the Cyclops 18 (UM18-22s) driven by an iNuke6000DSP.

The only thing that is annoying about the 6kDSP is when power is removed from it it lets a pop out on the subs. Don't have that issue with any other amps (and never had that issue with any other pro audio amps back in my FOH days).

I use a 12V relay to start my sequencer (Pyle PS900) driven off of the Denon6200 trigger out, and everything works great, minus the 6000DSP pop sound. But what do ya do. Its the last thing to turn on and the first thing to turn off in the sequence.

I've seen other people having this same issue.
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post #81 of 187 Old 01-05-2016, 08:53 AM
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I have the same problem with my 6000DSP. If you have it hooked up to a power outlet by itself (not into a power conditioner) the problem goes away. That takes away the simple automation solution, but I don't mind going over and switching one switch. I may install a Homekit single outlet switch to link in with the rest of the system as a workaround.
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post #82 of 187 Old 01-05-2016, 09:06 AM
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I have the same problem with my 6000DSP. If you have it hooked up to a power outlet by itself (not into a power conditioner) the problem goes away. That takes away the simple automation solution, but I don't mind going over and switching one switch. I may install a Homekit single outlet switch to link in with the rest of the system as a workaround.

Yeah, not a big deal to turn on the button, but everything else is automatically powered up and down with the push of a button on a remote, so its a little annoying that if I want the 18s on, i have to go manually push that button. But so is life, not a big deal. I'm sure I coudl wire up a relay to engage/disengage the push button used on the amp itself, as i believe someone else had done in a thread here, but didnt want to do that within the warranty period.
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post #83 of 187 Old 01-05-2016, 10:36 AM
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From searching here at AVS, i found some good plans/lists and built this 12 volt triggered SSR device for both my inuke 6k's. , on it's own dedicated 20 amp outlet.
end of "BUMP"
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post #84 of 187 Old 01-05-2016, 03:43 PM
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Could you change the sequence? I bet if the 6k was on first, and off last it might not thump. I had an old graphic eq that had to be used that way to eliminate the thump.

You should probably toe in those 1099s a little.

Nice work anyhow!
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post #85 of 187 Old 01-05-2016, 05:48 PM
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Are you using a Harmony remote? I just read about someone programming the avr to mute before powering everything off and that took care of it.

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post #86 of 187 Old 01-05-2016, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
From searching here at AVS, i found some good plans/lists and built this 12 volt triggered SSR device for both my inuke 6k's. , on it's own dedicated 20 amp outlet.
end of "BUMP"
Nice solid state relay mine has the thump well more of a slight pop but must be cause it has the line conditioner built in the power strip i used its a Triplite.

Spoiler!
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post #87 of 187 Old 01-06-2016, 08:09 AM
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From searching here at AVS, i found some good plans/lists and built this 12 volt triggered SSR device for both my inuke 6k's. , on it's own dedicated 20 amp outlet.
end of "BUMP"

So, I have an SSR like that that will work, and have really, all the components it would take to build that, as i've already built one for my kitchen amplifier etc.

But if I remove power from the unit itself I seem to get a pop sound. I guess I havent tried removing power from it from the outlet itself just via the power conditioner/sequencer its plugged into.

I could build one, its worth a shot, but I'll try unplugging it from the wall first and see if that stops the "pop".

Thanks
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post #88 of 187 Old 01-06-2016, 10:39 AM
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anyway this is where i posted my SSR build

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...nuke+ssr+relay

as I recall there was discussion about "removing power" as referred to in the use of "smart strips' .
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post #89 of 187 Old 01-06-2016, 01:18 PM
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Im halfway through my cyclops build right now and am standing it upwards. Not sure if sub in the center would work well
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post #90 of 187 Old 01-06-2016, 01:39 PM
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Im halfway through my cyclops build right now and am standing it upwards. Not sure if sub in the center would work well
You can always screw them to the wall
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