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post #181 of 187 Old 12-02-2019, 05:30 PM
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I change your design so I was a slimmer 12inch version, I keep the volume of the driver area and port area the same so it would hopefully perform in the same manner.

I noticed that some have used 2x4's as bracing while others have used 3/4 MDF which one is best? or does it really matter as long as its stiff?



I also did a side to side comparison...





do you see any issues with my alterations to the original design?
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post #182 of 187 Old 12-02-2019, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicolas Sole View Post
I change your design so I was a slimmer 12inch version, I keep the volume of the driver area and port area the same so it would hopefully perform in the same manner.



I noticed that some have used 2x4's as bracing while others have used 3/4 MDF which one is best? or does it really matter as long as its stiff?







I also did a side to side comparison...











do you see any issues with my alterations to the original design?
For a ported box you can change the shape of the box, net internal volume, port area and port length need to be close to equal, there is a little wiggle room. MDF and 2x4"s are both good for bracing, 2x4"s are a bit overkill for some scenarios. The goal is bracing to be no further than 10"s from a corner or neighboring brace on the same panel. MDF window frames will work well with this design. A 1.5" width for the MDF bracing should be plenty. The biggest concern is the sub having enough depth for mounting. An inch clearance should be enough.

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post #183 of 187 Old 12-02-2019, 06:49 PM
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For a ported box you can change the shape of the box, net internal volume, port area and port length need to be close to equal, there is a little wiggle room. MDF and 2x4"s are both good for bracing, 2x4"s are a bit overkill for some scenarios. The goal is bracing to be no further than 10"s from a corner or neighboring brace on the same panel. MDF window frames will work well with this design. A 1.5" width for the MDF bracing should be plenty. The biggest concern is the sub having enough depth for mounting. An inch clearance should be enough.
I left about 1.5inch space from the back to the driver to the cabinet just for some wiggle room.

to be honest i'm not sure at all on how to brace it, with window frames are you reffering to something like this?



when you mention a " A 1.5" width for the MDF bracing should be plenty" what do you actually mean, I'm sorry but I'm only just learning about DIY speakers.

Also with the bracing do you factor the volume lost due to bracing and increase the size cabinet a bit?
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post #184 of 187 Old 12-02-2019, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicolas Sole View Post
I left about 1.5inch space from the back to the driver to the cabinet just for some wiggle room.



to be honest i'm not sure at all on how to brace it, with window frames are you reffering to something like this?







when you mention a " A 1.5" width for the MDF bracing should be plenty" what do you actually mean, I'm sorry but I'm only just learning about DIY speakers.



Also with the bracing do you factor the volume lost due to bracing and increase the size cabinet a bit?
Those are a good example of window frame braces. 1.5" from the outside edge of the frame to the inside edge of frame. Yes, the bracing gets taken out of the net volume of the box. If you use a consistent depth to the bracing like 1.5" you take the total length of the bracing we will say 120" * 1.5" * .75" = 135in³ convert to cubic feet = .08ft³. The vent comes out of the net volume along with the sub. You want to mainly focus the ridgety of the bracing from the sub woofer side to the opposing side. That axis will see the most force from the action of the sub.

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You can always turn it down, but you can only turn it up so much (before you run out of power, excursion or structural integrity).
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post #185 of 187 Old 12-03-2019, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicolas Sole View Post
I left about 1.5inch space from the back to the driver to the cabinet just for some wiggle room.



to be honest i'm not sure at all on how to brace it, with window frames are you reffering to something like this?







when you mention a " A 1.5" width for the MDF bracing should be plenty" what do you actually mean, I'm sorry but I'm only just learning about DIY speakers.



Also with the bracing do you factor the volume lost due to bracing and increase the size cabinet a bit?


I built the cab in the pic you posted. I can tell you it was a sturdy cab. I love window braces, but just wood dowels or scraps are enough.
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post #186 of 187 Old 12-03-2019, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Jk7.2 View Post

I built the cab in the pic you posted. I can tell you it was a sturdy cab. I love window braces, but just wood dowels or scraps are enough.
Oh good to hear I was gonna pretty much copy your bracing to suit. How you liking the performance of these subs?
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post #187 of 187 Old 12-03-2019, 04:57 PM
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CyclÊ?ps 18

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicolas Sole View Post
Oh good to hear I was gonna pretty much copy your bracing to suit. How you liking the performance of these subs?


They were awesome! I’ve since moved on from these cabs. I had ds4’s in them, then hst18’s. The cab was excellent. I think I just went off the design for bracing, so I don’t get any credit. If I remember, braces are accounted for in the cutlist.
Edit: yup! There they are in the 1st post!
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