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post #61 of 94 Old 11-06-2015, 10:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post
i was going to say, maybe try a non angled box a tad bit closer to ear level?...
Exactly what I'm doing. I bought the Volt 8's and am building my own flat boxes which will be positioned maybe a foot (to cone center) above my head. I think there is flat boxes coming for Volt range but as I'm overseas it would had added to much onto shipping so I'll design and build my own.
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post #62 of 94 Old 11-06-2015, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Brian Fineberg View Post
ya know since I am going new...and I CAN since they come with the baffle....I think i WILL do not slanted! not sure why i didnt even think if it lol

is there a cut list for volt 6's or 8's for a flatbox? what is the minimum depth?
This will give you a cut list for any size box you design

http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calc...akerBoxVolume/

For the 8's using the included ported baffle you have to go at least 6.5" deep (using 3/4 MDF) as they need a minimum of 0.35 cubic feet. Using 1/2" MDF it'll buy a 0.5" in depth but might not be as solid.

To work optimally Matt reckons you need 0.7 cubic feet which means a 32 inch tall, 11 inch wide, 6 inch deep speaker (which I'm actually thinking might look cool in a weird way).
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Last edited by sjackson; 11-06-2015 at 11:07 AM.
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post #63 of 94 Old 11-06-2015, 11:19 AM
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Are you originally from the Southern U.S. or do they say "reckon" in other parts of the world?

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post #64 of 94 Old 11-06-2015, 11:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Are you originally from the Southern U.S. or do they say "reckon" in other parts of the world?
We use it a lot here in Ireland too!
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post #65 of 94 Old 11-06-2015, 11:30 AM
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We use it a lot here in Ireland too!
Ahhhh, ok. I had no idea
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post #66 of 94 Old 11-06-2015, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Fineberg View Post
If I went with the 10lx and cut the baffle to 11" what would be the dimensions of the box for flat box?

Im bad at the cu' dimensions....assuming a 1.0cu box
I ripped my baffles down to make the boxes thinner and as shallow as possible and just made them taller. I think they're 12" wide. It may be in my build thread. If I remember correctly you can go down to around .75 cubes.. I think mine are around 1 cube.
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post #67 of 94 Old 11-06-2015, 01:10 PM
 
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I ripped my baffles down to make the boxes thinner and as shallow as possible and just made them taller. I think they're 12" wide. It may be in my build thread. If I remember correctly you can go down to around .75 cubes.. I think mine are around 1 cube.
If you can measure them for
Me that would be awesome!
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post #68 of 94 Old 11-06-2015, 02:31 PM
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If you can measure them for
Me that would be awesome!


They're installed in the columns with grills over them. I have 2 brads holding the grills on but I hate to pull them off unless I have to as the nails pull through the panel trim so I have to pull those out and rebrad them on. They barely fit into the columns so I can easily get within 1/4" or so with them in place... kinda ballparking it.
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post #69 of 94 Old 11-06-2015, 02:35 PM - Thread Starter
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I've been looking at some numbers in relation to the Volt 8's and I might do this:

1. Trim off all the rounded edges from the included baffle. This should leave me with a baffle around 10" x 14".
2. Get another piece of 10" x 11" MDF to use as a "baffle extender"
3. Build my cabinets 10" wide by 25" tall by 6" deep
4. Fit the baffle upside down to what most people would do so the woofer is on the bottom, ports above it and then about 11" or 12" of space.

So in essence I'll have tall thin speakers with all the space above it (gets my speakers to ear level but allowing enough volume). Volume wise it should hit 0.45 cubic feet which Matt recommends (he says 0.35ft3 minimum but better with 0.45 to 0.7). Any reason why that might not work?

What would be the best way to fill the speaker using something like attic insulation (fibreglass/mineral wool material)? Pad out the area behind the woofer so the speaker actually pushes the padding down, leave behind the ports with no padding and then pad above the ports (in what should be around 11 or 12 inches)?

Here's a cut list if anyone is interested.


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post #70 of 94 Old 11-06-2015, 03:04 PM
 
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They're installed in the columns with grills over them. I have 2 brads holding the grills on but I hate to pull them off unless I have to as the nails pull through the panel trim so I have to pull those out and rebrad them on. They barely fit into the columns so I can easily get within 1/4" or so with them in place... kinda ballparking it.
Gotcha. No worries.
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post #71 of 94 Old 11-06-2015, 03:53 PM
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Gotcha. No worries.
12.5"wx24"hx7deep. All outside measurement... 3/4 mdf.
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12.5"wx24"hx7deep. All outside measurement... 3/4 mdf.
I actually could put min in my columns just like yours At least the right side of the theater. The left side the columns conceal the support beams. And I never measured the clearance the columns had inside. Most likely not 7" however.

That would be sick
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post #73 of 94 Old 11-07-2015, 09:16 AM
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I actually could put min in my columns just like yours At least the right side of the theater. The left side the columns conceal the support beams. And I never measured the clearance the columns had inside. Most likely not 7" however.

That would be sick
Yea I really like them hidden. I have my rears toed in some so my columns are a little deeper. 8" deep if I remember correctly. Of course you could build the rear boxes with some angle built into them so they still fit in a shallower column

If you can't fit them I'd try smaller volts just so you can have column installation. They'll be awesome no matter which ones you choose. I just like as high spl as possible and larger divers as they can move a little more air for midbass...and the price isn't much different.
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post #74 of 94 Old 11-09-2015, 04:14 PM - Thread Starter
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So I've ordered the Volt 8's and I'm thinking about a cabinet either 10 or 11 inches wide, 6 inches deep and 24ish inches tall. One plan is to use the included baffle and stick a piece of would on top to make the baffle tall enough. Another option might be to make a custom 1 piece baffle but use passive radiators instead of the included ports mainly as it would be easier to cut out a circle than the port holes.

Thoughts? @mtg90 did something similar with the Volt 10's here:
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/forum/i...hp?topic=486.0

I'm guessing off the top of my head I'd need dual Dayton Audio SD215-PR's which would also mean increasing the height of the box to at least 28" which funnily would match the exact height of the 893's
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post #75 of 94 Old 11-09-2015, 07:42 PM
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^

I 'd like to see what you get for a response

the Volt 8 and PRs seems like a nice option for surrounds hopefully with a size for a 60-80 hz xo.

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I am going to use the ported 10LX's as surrounds and 6's for atmos in a 5.1.4 because I watch a lot of blu ray concerts with 5.1 tracks. If I was not into 5.1 music, I would use the 6's for surrounds.
Brian , did you ever get those volt 6's installed for atmos and do you like them with the 10LXs?
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post #77 of 94 Old 01-08-2016, 03:32 PM
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Brian , did you ever get those volt 6's installed for atmos and do you like them with the 10LXs?
I'm just starting my theater so the 6's are a ways off.

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I'm just starting my theater so the 6's are a ways off.
Gotcha. I'm deciding between the 8's and 6's for atmos to go along with my 10LX surrounds so you plan is similar to mine and I thought I would ask.

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So I've ordered the Volt 8's and I'm thinking about a cabinet either 10 or 11 inches wide, 6 inches deep and 24ish inches tall. One plan is to use the included baffle and stick a piece of would on top to make the baffle tall enough. Another option might be to make a custom 1 piece baffle but use passive radiators instead of the included ports mainly as it would be easier to cut out a circle than the port holes.

Thoughts? @mtg90 did something similar with the Volt 10's here:
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/forum/i...hp?topic=486.0

I'm guessing off the top of my head I'd need dual Dayton Audio SD215-PR's which would also mean increasing the height of the box to at least 28" which funnily would match the exact height of the 893's
Did you decide to go with the passive radiators? I saw that in Matt's thread and I'm sure other people are curious too.
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post #79 of 94 Old 06-19-2016, 02:34 PM
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Very happy with my volt6's as surrounds. I wanted a less intrusive smaller box as well. I don't think that you are giving up much,especially with them crossed at 80hz.
you should really cross them at 100hz if you want 102 SPL at the listening position without distortion.

I based my assumption on the eminance 6A alpha or beta response graph even though the volt 6 may not use the same driver ( not disclosed on the website)
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post #80 of 94 Old 06-22-2016, 10:01 AM
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sounds like it. also, the closer they are the less power they need to reach your reference level so the sensitivity isnt as big a factor. Not to mention the frequencies the surround channels reproduce are not as demanding on the amp. they would still match up just fine with 1099's.
Agree that matching sensitivity isn't a goal. Matching spl levels at all frequancies is the goal.
Two questions arise:
1. Do atmos blueray mixes include high spl low freq content anywhere between 80hz to 95hz. I belive the answer may not be yes so it will be a challenge for volt 6 but not to 10. Frequencies of less than 80hz can be directed to sub. I use 80hz and not 100hz as I believe I can localized sound at 80hz but anything lower can come from front subs.
2. If atmos home mix contains low freq I would vote against using anything but a speaker that can produce clean 105spl at 80hz. Doubt that the volt 6 can do that without distortion.
3. Atmos/dts is object based sound and keeping all surrounds tonalit the same is very important. So button kine is if you have space for 12cx 10cx or 8cx prefer them at this order on others. If you have no space you will have to comprise between room aesthetics and sound quality.
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sounds like it. also, the closer they are the less power they need to reach your reference level so the sensitivity isnt as big a factor. Not to mention the frequencies the surround channels reproduce are not as demanding on the amp. they would still match up just fine with 1099's.
Agree that matching sensitivity isn't a goal. Matching spl levels at all frequancies is the goal.

1. Do atmos blueray mixes include high spl low freq content anywhere between 80hz to 95hz. I belive it is yes so it will be a challenge for volt 6 but not to 10. Frequencies of less than 80hz can be directed to sub. I use 80hz and not 100hz as I believe I can localized sound at 80hz but anything lower can come from front subs.
2. If atmos home mix contains low freq I would vote against using anything but a speaker that can produce clean 105spl at 80hz. Doubt that the volt 6 can do that without distortion.
3. Atmos/dts is object based sound and keeping all surrounds tonalit the same is very important. So button kine is if you have space for 12cx 10cx or 8cx prefer them at this order on others. If you have no space you will have to comprise between room aesthetics and sound quality.
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post #82 of 94 Old 06-22-2016, 11:24 AM
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Agree that matching sensitivity isn't a goal. Matching spl levels at all frequancies is the goal.

1. Do atmos blueray mixes include high spl low freq content anywhere between 80hz to 95hz. I belive it is yes so it will be a challenge for volt 6 but not to 10. Frequencies of less than 80hz can be directed to sub. I use 80hz and not 100hz as I believe I can localized sound at 80hz but anything lower can come from front subs.
2. If atmos home mix contains low freq I would vote against using anything but a speaker that can produce clean 105spl at 80hz. Doubt that the volt 6 can do that without distortion.
3. Atmos/dts is object based sound and keeping all surrounds tonalit the same is very important. So button kine is if you have space for 12cx 10cx or 8cx prefer them at this order on others. If you have no space you will have to comprise between room aesthetics and sound quality.
I have 10 volt 10lx speakers in sealed, inwall and IB configurations. They all get great room gain and xt32 tries to set them all at 40hz. That said I still bump up to 80hz for obvious reasons. If the volt 6 is getting some good room gain it's possible you'll have enough head room with room gain to hit reference levels as long as you're sitting relativity close.. 8 feet or so. And installed against a wall of course expect some gain.

Now this calculator isn't perfect but it's ballpark. You can see with one speaker it's possible.http://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html

But I like overkill and wanted to be safe
so I went with 10lx!
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post #83 of 94 Old 06-22-2016, 12:22 PM
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Agree that matching sensitivity isn't a goal. Matching spl levels at all frequancies is the goal.
Two questions arise:
1. Do atmos blueray mixes include high spl low freq content anywhere between 80hz to 95hz. I belive the answer may not be yes so it will be a challenge for volt 6 but not to 10. Frequencies of less than 80hz can be directed to sub. I use 80hz and not 100hz as I believe I can localized sound at 80hz but anything lower can come from front subs.
2. If atmos home mix contains low freq I would vote against using anything but a speaker that can produce clean 105spl at 80hz. Doubt that the volt 6 can do that without distortion.
3. Atmos/dts is object based sound and keeping all surrounds tonalit the same is very important. So button kine is if you have space for 12cx 10cx or 8cx prefer them at this order on others. If you have no space you will have to comprise between room aesthetics and sound quality.

I have been listening to the pair of Volt 6's I built for my surrounds. I have no doubt they will be great Atmos speakers. I doubt there will be much 90Hz or lower in the atmos channels. I will cross them at 100 or 120. You want those sounds to be localized IMO.

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I have been listening to the pair of Volt 6's I built for my surrounds. I have no doubt they will be great Atmos speakers. I doubt there will be much 90Hz or lower in the atmos channels. I will cross them at 100 or 120. You want those sounds to be localized IMO.
The localization wont be coming from the ceiling.. it'll be coming from the subs your sending the 80-120hz info to, so that localization won't be a good thing.

As for info up there I've been in my attic with IB volt 10lx a few times while it was playing and they seemed to be getting tons of full range content.. definitely not just upper stuff.


I'd assume they're fed pretty much what rears and surrounds are fed.


Of course the crossover is always something you can play with.

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The localization wont be coming from the ceiling.. it'll be coming from the subs your sending the 80-120hz info to, so that localization won't be a good thing.
Doh! your right. What was I thinking?

If I had your ceiling height, I would use the 10's also. These will be in soffits 7' up so there is a space issue and I also need to get the most dispersion I can from that distance. Like you said, Ill play with the crossover but I know they will perform great.
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post #86 of 94 Old 12-24-2016, 09:17 AM
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I don't think that is correct to say that the volt 6 has wider dispression. The volt 6 has a smaller cone and the cone acts as the wave guide for the HF driver. So the bigger the cone the wider the dispression. At least up to 2-4 k that's the case.
The 6 will have more sound distortion when the cone moves faster and deeper if LF sound is played and the HF signal can be effected. That's why in coaxials its better to minimize the cone movement and cross them as high as possible to a low freq driver.
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post #87 of 94 Old 12-24-2016, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by avilon74 View Post
I don't think that is correct to say that the volt 6 has wider dispression. The volt 6 has a smaller cone and the cone acts as the wave guide for the HF driver. So the bigger the cone the wider the dispression. At least up to 2-4 k that's the case.
The 6 will have more sound distortion when the cone moves faster and deeper if LF sound is played and the HF signal can be effected. That's why in coaxials its better to minimize the cone movement and cross them as high as possible to a low freq driver.
Does it sound better to say the 10 will hold directivity more than the 6?

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post #88 of 94 Old 12-31-2016, 09:03 AM
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Yes that is what you meant and its correct. The 10 is more directional at a narrow frequance band above 1k. After the crossover point to the CD they will have the same directivity as they use the same CD. But the 10 dispression will be wider for HF. Which is important. As a general rule small speakers image better and become more directional at higher frequencies.
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post #90 of 94 Old 01-01-2017, 09:57 AM
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Or, there is another option

There is the more expensive Concentric 8 if cost is not much of a concern and a good "half-split" between the 6 and 10. Heck, you even get a bamboo bezel...

Sometimes having too many choices is a bad thing
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