Dual UM-18 Build Thread (with pictures) - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 81 Old 11-14-2015, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Dual UM-18 Build Thread (with pictures)

I finally got a free weekend to nearly complete my dual Ultimax 18 build. A quick big shout out the the community to convincing me to go with 18s instead of 15s Ya'll are doing your job well!

The bundle was purchased from Parts Express, so I decided to go with the UM-18s instead of the Stereo Integrity HT18s. I also purchased them because of the bundled price and driver performance/sexiness.

These subs will be powered with a single iNuke 3000DSP with the budget to simply add a 2nd if needed. I decided on the 3000DSP instead of the 6000DSP because these will be going into a 12x12x8 bedroom where room gain is a huge bonus for these monster subs. Although I could have purchased the 6000DSP and called it quits, two 3000DSPs gives me an option for quads in the far future (maybe I'm just trying to justify a mistake, not sure but I'm hoping the just-under 600 watt/sub will be suitable).

My progress so far is having both cabinets assembled, while one is currently still on clamps. I let the first cabinet sit for a total of 5 hours with 5 clamps and some added top weight. The same goes for the 2nd cabinet.

I did have to go and grab some wood filler and a needle to fill a couple small gaps. I'm not sure if this was an operator error, or a slight warp in the MDF, but a couple corners would NOT line up perfectly on the first cabinet. A little extra sanding, but nothing handicapping or compromising the cabinet. The 2nd cabinet went almost 1000% perfect.

The finish will be a DuraTex finish, roller grade. Nothing super fancy, but it was a simple black finish that blends in well. I was really thinking of something to make those large drivers pop, but I also wanted the subs to fit in with the rest if the furniture, etc. So I think the DuraTex will be fine.

Tomorrow I will sand off the extra glue, calk the cabinets with silicone, drill holes to mount the SpeakOn connectors, fill the cabinets with poly fill, and drop the driver in for a test fire. Once all goes well, the cabinets will be painted, and the drivers will become officially mounted with a T-Nut kit from Parts Express.

Thanks everyone for helping with all the questions. It's not done yet, but I'm glad I decided to go the DIY route to maximize the price/performance ratio. I'm really hoping these subs will be money well spent.

I do have a couple questions: Thanks LDT02
LTD02, wlhungdude, eng-399 and 2 others like this.

------------------------------------------------
Receiver : Denon x5200
Front Stage : L/R - Statements by Jim Holtz
Surround Speakers : Klipsch RF-82II x 4 / RP-280F x 2
Subwooferage : 6 UM18/4 HT18 Subwoofer Log

Last edited by bgtighe23; 11-15-2015 at 09:16 AM.
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post #2 of 81 Old 11-14-2015, 06:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Reserved for pictures: (see post number 8)

The first couple pictures is the assembly of the 2nd cabinet with 5 clamps and top weight. The first one I was a little un-confident so I didn't get much assembly pictures.

The 2nd couple pictures (3 and 4) shows the inside of the cabinets after they have dried. Glue is Titebond II. I purchased some silicone caulk as well. I'm very happy how clean some of the glue turned out inside the cabinet.

The 3rd two pictures is the assembled box with a little sanding of some glue that ozzed out from the clamping.

The 4th set (7 and 8) is me enjoying some classic music on some classic speakers.

Picture 9 is playing with the SpeakOn connectors, disconnects and what not.

The 10th pictures is clamping down the 2nd baffle. 4 clamps plus center weight was used (not pictured).















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------------------------------------------------
Receiver : Denon x5200
Front Stage : L/R - Statements by Jim Holtz
Surround Speakers : Klipsch RF-82II x 4 / RP-280F x 2
Subwooferage : 6 UM18/4 HT18 Subwoofer Log

Last edited by bgtighe23; 11-15-2015 at 02:48 PM.
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post #3 of 81 Old 11-14-2015, 06:33 PM
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Im excited to see your results as I will be building a single UM 18 soon!

Samsung 40" UN40H5203
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post #4 of 81 Old 11-14-2015, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgtighe23 View Post
I finally got a free weekend to nearly complete my dual Ultimax 18 build. A quick big shout out the the community to convincing me to go with 18s instead of 15s Ya'll are doing your job well!

The bundle was purchased from Parts Express, so I decided to go with the UM-18s instead of the Stereo Integrity HT18s. I also purchased them because of the bundled price and driver performance/sexiness.

These subs will be powered with a single iNuke 3000DSP with the budget to simply add a 2nd if needed. I decided on the 3000DSP instead of the 6000DSP because these will be going into a 12x12x8 bedroom where room gain is a huge bonus for these monster subs. Although I could have purchased the 6000DSP and called it quits, two 3000DSPs gives me an option for quads in the far future (maybe I'm just trying to justify a mistake, not sure but I'm hoping the just-under 600 watt/sub will be suitable).

My progress so far is having both cabinets assembled, while one is currently still on clamps. I let the first cabinet sit for a total of 5 hours with 5 clamps and some added top weight. The same goes for the 2nd cabinet.

I did have to go and grab some wood filler and a needle to fill a couple small gaps. I'm not sure if this was an operator error, or a slight warp in the MDF, but a couple corners would NOT line up perfectly on the first cabinet. A little extra sanding, but nothing handicapping or compromising the cabinet. The 2nd cabinet went almost 1000% perfect.

The finish will be a DuraTex finish, roller grade. Nothing super fancy, but it was a simple black finish that blends in well. I was really thinking of something to make those large drivers pop, but I also wanted the subs to fit in with the rest if the furniture, etc. So I think the DuraTex will be fine.

Tomorrow I will sand off the extra glue, calk the cabinets with silicone, drill holes to mount the SpeakOn connectors, fill the cabinets with poly fill, and drop the driver in for a test fire. Once all goes well, the cabinets will be painted, and the drivers will become officially mounted with a T-Nut kit from Parts Express.

Thanks everyone for helping with all the questions. It's not done yet, but I'm glad I decided to go the DIY route to maximize the price/performance ratio. I'm really hoping these subs will be money well spent.

I do have a couple questions: : What is the best way to mount these SpeakOn Connectors? I purchased these for the back of the subs: https://www.parts-express.com/neutri...mount--092-054 / https://www.parts-express.com/neutri...or-4p--092-192

Should I have purchased a different mount? How should I connect the UM-18 to the SpeakOn mount?
How'd you like the dual SB2000s? I was debating on the dual SB2000s, ended up buying the SB13U, in my bedroom ofc (almost the exact same size). However never sent it back as I knew I'd love the Ultra due to my dad having dual PB13Us.

SVS Ultra Bookshelves (Gloss White) / SVS SB13-Ultra / 2x Flex 12's / 2x V.B.S.S's / 2x Dayton 460HO's Marantz SR7008
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post #5 of 81 Old 11-14-2015, 08:40 PM
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the speakon. just drill a hole and attached the connector with screws. try to get it as close to air tight as possible.


the driver wires can be soldered or attached with something like this:


https://www.parts-express.com/3-16-(...0-pcs--095-287


double check the size.


by using 1+ and 1- for the red(+) and black(-) connection points, it will help keep everything straight.





just keep in mind that if you end up bridging the connection at the AMP will change to 1+ and 2+ for the red(+) and black(-) wires.
wlhungdude and asarose247 like this.

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post #6 of 81 Old 11-14-2015, 09:11 PM
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You purchased the correct Speakon cabinet jacks for a wooden cabinet. FINALLY! Not everyone does.

That Speakon jack uses a 15/16" hole for the body of the jack. You can find that spade bit at Lowes/HD for about $5. Worth every penny. Buy the bit; don't try to enlarge a 3/4" hole to 15/16"...it will not end well...ask me how I know.

IF you wanted to recess the outer mounting flange too (the big circle part) I THINK (IIRC) it's 2" in diameter. You would need a Forstner Bit for that. A Forstner Bit drills flat-bottomed holes. It is not necessary at ALL. Merely an aesthetic thing. Link to 2" Forstner Bit. http://www.amazon.com/Steelex-D1015-...2+forstner+bit

If you go the recess route: Cut the recess FIRST, then use the 15/16" spade bit to drill the mounting hole through the center.
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post #7 of 81 Old 11-15-2015, 06:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reckless95 View Post
How'd you like the dual SB2000s? I was debating on the dual SB2000s, ended up buying the SB13U, in my bedroom ofc (almost the exact same size). However never sent it back as I knew I'd love the Ultra due to my dad having dual PB13Us.
I loved the SB-2000s. Great SQ, performance, and extremely compact. But the cost for dual SB-2000s is almost equal to the dual UM-18 build. The UM-18s are actually cheaper, but I had to purchase clamps, a finish, and other little things that add cost. The performance of the UM-18s are of no comparison to the SB-2000s.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
the speakon. just drill a hole and attached the connector with screws. try to get it as close to air tight as possible.


the driver wires can be soldered or attached with something like this:


https://www.parts-express.com/3-16-(...0-pcs--095-287


double check the size.
by using 1+ and 1- for the red(+) and black(-) connection points, it will help keep everything straight.

just keep in mind that if you end up bridging the connection at the AMP will change to 1+ and 2+ for the red(+) and black(-) wires.
Thank you for this post. I've been many wiring diagrams, but it's nice having a personal confirmation on this thread. I purchased the disconnects with the bundle, so I already have those. Thanks again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelddd View Post
You purchased the correct Speakon cabinet jacks for a wooden cabinet. FINALLY! Not everyone does.

That Speakon jack uses a 15/16" hole for the body of the jack. You can find that spade bit at Lowes/HD for about $5. Worth every penny. Buy the bit; don't try to enlarge a 3/4" hole to 15/16"...it will not end well...ask me how I know.

IF you wanted to recess the outer mounting flange too (the big circle part) I THINK (IIRC) it's 2" in diameter. You would need a Forstner Bit for that. A Forstner Bit drills flat-bottomed holes. It is not necessary at ALL. Merely an aesthetic thing. Link to 2" Forstner Bit. http://www.amazon.com/Steelex-D1015-...2+forstner+bit

If you go the recess route: Cut the recess FIRST, then use the 15/16" spade bit to drill the mounting hole through the center.
Thank you for this information! I purchased the right angle SpeakOns so I can place the subs closer to the wall. I don't think I will attempt to recess the SpeakOn mount. I'm hoping to build some cheap bookshelves where I will attempt the little touches as you stated. I would just rather make a mistake on a cheap flatpack instead of a more expensive one!

------------------------------------------------
Receiver : Denon x5200
Front Stage : L/R - Statements by Jim Holtz
Surround Speakers : Klipsch RF-82II x 4 / RP-280F x 2
Subwooferage : 6 UM18/4 HT18 Subwoofer Log
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post #8 of 81 Old 11-15-2015, 08:41 AM - Thread Starter
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I've uploaded about 10 pictures. For some reason during the upload, my pictures were rotated.

------------------------------------------------
Receiver : Denon x5200
Front Stage : L/R - Statements by Jim Holtz
Surround Speakers : Klipsch RF-82II x 4 / RP-280F x 2
Subwooferage : 6 UM18/4 HT18 Subwoofer Log
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post #9 of 81 Old 11-15-2015, 09:25 AM
 
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Sweet! Glad you finally got started (and are well along the way)!

Hey @LTD02 can you comment on why the Neutrik suggested wiring for the NL4MP terminal is to use the 1+ pin to the positive terminal on the driver, and pins -1 and +2 to the negative terminal? (attached). Has that got some further purpose than yours?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
Sweet! Glad you finally got started (and are well along the way)!

Hey @LTD02 can you comment on why the Neutrik suggested wiring for the NL4MP terminal is to use the 1+ pin to the positive terminal on the driver, and pins -1 and +2 to the negative terminal? (attached). Has that got some further purpose than yours?
my guess would be so that if you decide to wire it bridged and have a cable already wired up using the 1+/2+ terminals, you wouldn't have to open the enclosure and change the wire from the 1- over to the 2+ connection.


for most diy folks, if switching from stereo mode to bridged mode, it is probably easiest to just open the connector at the amp and swap the wire from 1- to 2+ and make no other changes to the cable or sub wiring.

Listen. It's All Good.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
my guess would be so that if you decide to wire it bridged and have a cable already wired up using the 1+/2+ terminals, you wouldn't have to open the enclosure and change the wire from the 1- over to the 2+ connection.


for most diy folks, if switching from stereo mode to bridged mode, it is probably easiest to just open the connector at the amp and swap the wire from 1- to 2+ and make no other changes to the cable or sub wiring.
I did start off with bridged amp wiring, and when just using one channel I just changed the amp end....I guess I never even considered the y-cable/stereo setup.
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post #12 of 81 Old 11-15-2015, 02:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Got the first coat of DuraTex on the cabinets. So far so good.

Another question: has anyone used T-nuts before? specifically, the kit from parts express? How should I use those? Should the T-nuts go under the baffle or on top of the recessed baffle?
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------------------------------------------------
Receiver : Denon x5200
Front Stage : L/R - Statements by Jim Holtz
Surround Speakers : Klipsch RF-82II x 4 / RP-280F x 2
Subwooferage : 6 UM18/4 HT18 Subwoofer Log
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post #13 of 81 Old 11-15-2015, 02:46 PM
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Can't speak for others but I use T-nuts on my builds. I go under the front baffle and pull it through with a bolt and large washer, I also use a little glue on the mating surface to be sure it's sealed and wont break free.
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post #14 of 81 Old 11-15-2015, 05:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. That's what I will be doing as well.

Done for the night. Got a 2nd coat painted on, aiming for a streak free look. I'm thinking this will be the last coat. It's pretty smooth and not incredibly textured. I purchased too much DuraTex....
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClintonH View Post
Can't speak for others but I use T-nuts on my builds. I go under the front baffle and pull it through with a bolt and large washer, I also use a little glue on the mating surface to be sure it's sealed and wont break free.
Yep, have done pretty much the same, particularly paying attention to any prongs close to the edge before driving/pulling them in. I predrilled the hole for the nut so that it's a nice tight friction fit.
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post #16 of 81 Old 11-16-2015, 01:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgtighe23 View Post


Got the first coat of DuraTex on the cabinets. So far so good.

Another question: has anyone used T-nuts before? specifically, the kit from parts express? How should I use those? Should the T-nuts go under the baffle or on top of the recessed baffle?
Read over this thread. Lots of great information.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...ivers-mdf.html

Posts 12, 18, 20 and 22 have good information.
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post #17 of 81 Old 11-16-2015, 04:48 AM
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Hello BG Im subscribed to your thread because Im thinking to do something similar. Question: Do you use an adapter from the LFE output (RCA) of the receiver to the input (XLR) of the iNuke or it is a just a straight cable? I read somewhere that you have to use an impedance adapter between receiver and amplifier not sure if its necessary. Thanks.
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post #18 of 81 Old 11-16-2015, 07:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmspiderman View Post
Hello BG Im subscribed to your thread because Im thinking to do something similar. Question: Do you use an adapter from the LFE output (RCA) of the receiver to the input (XLR) of the iNuke or it is a just a straight cable? I read somewhere that you have to use an impedance adapter between receiver and amplifier not sure if its necessary. Thanks.
The input cables on the inuke is an XLR. the output cables are SpeakOn.

Everything else depends on the receiver. My subwoofer pre outs on my Denon are RCAs. Monoprice sells RCA to XLR cables. So technically, yes, its a single cable with different connectors.

Some receivers have XLR preouts.

Receiver>RCA to XLR>input into inuke>SpeakOn to SpeakOn output to sub number 1.

I have another thread that askes pretty specific questions about starting a build, and all supplies/materials needed. I'm on my phone right now, so I will post the link later when I get to my computer.

EDIT: Added link
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-dual-diy.html

------------------------------------------------
Receiver : Denon x5200
Front Stage : L/R - Statements by Jim Holtz
Surround Speakers : Klipsch RF-82II x 4 / RP-280F x 2
Subwooferage : 6 UM18/4 HT18 Subwoofer Log

Last edited by bgtighe23; 11-16-2015 at 09:37 AM.
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So I have everything finish, but I'm having iNuke trouble. I'm getting no output from it at all, well hardly anything. Not a single limiter light is lighting up even though the gain knob is at 100%. I've checked all wires except the ones on the drivers themselves. But those were tested before dropping them in so they should be fine.

The only setting I changed on the iNuke was dual to stereo.

Do I need to hook both subs up? I just tested 1 sub.

------------------------------------------------
Receiver : Denon x5200
Front Stage : L/R - Statements by Jim Holtz
Surround Speakers : Klipsch RF-82II x 4 / RP-280F x 2
Subwooferage : 6 UM18/4 HT18 Subwoofer Log
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post #20 of 81 Old 11-19-2015, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgtighe23 View Post
So I have everything finish, but I'm having iNuke trouble. I'm getting no output from it at all, well hardly anything. Not a single limiter light is lighting up even though the gain knob is at 100%. I've checked all wires except the ones on the drivers themselves. But those were tested before dropping them in so they should be fine.

The only setting I changed on the iNuke was dual to stereo.

Do I need to hook both subs up? I just tested 1 sub.
Try hooking up the amp to your computer and checking the input level. If you are not getting a signal from your AVR, then you need to double check your RCA to XLR cable and also the Sub Trim level in your AVR. Also, any reason for switching from Dual Mono to Stereo? I think the setting most people are using are either Dual Mono or Biamp1 (with x-over disabled).

Most Denon's have plenty of output voltage to drive the Inuke's to full output so you shouldn't need any type of cleanbox. I have the X2000 and my sub trim is set to -8db with my Inuke gains at ~3 o'clock and I don't have trouble hitting full output.

Check out my End-Table Marty Build
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post #21 of 81 Old 11-19-2015, 09:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by squiers007 View Post
Try hooking up the amp to your computer and checking the input level. If you are not getting a signal from your AVR, then you need to double check your RCA to XLR cable and also the Sub Trim level in your AVR. Also, any reason for switching from Dual Mono to Stereo? I think the setting most people are using are either Dual Mono or Biamp1 (with x-over disabled).

Most Denon's have plenty of output voltage to drive the Inuke's to full output so you shouldn't need any type of cleanbox. I have the X2000 and my sub trim is set to -8db with my Inuke gains at ~3 o'clock and I don't have trouble hitting full output.
Well, I was just running 1 sub. I hooked up the other just now, so I'm running dual. I was hoping to find some difference between sub 1 and 2. I just now unboxed the 2nd XLR and made another speakOn cable for the 2nd sub. I'm having the same results/issues with both subs.

I was able to get 2 indicator lights to come on when I had the gain at 75% of max on the iNuke, and the receiver signal was at +10dB.

I have pulled apart and checked every wire that I know to check.

Bolded: Is there anyway to check the input level without a computer - just manually in the little screen of the iNuke? I currently don't have a laptop and I'm planning on getting one (and REW) after the first of the year. I would hate to have to wag the desktop, etc. upstairs.

------------------------------------------------
Receiver : Denon x5200
Front Stage : L/R - Statements by Jim Holtz
Surround Speakers : Klipsch RF-82II x 4 / RP-280F x 2
Subwooferage : 6 UM18/4 HT18 Subwoofer Log
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post #22 of 81 Old 11-19-2015, 09:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Receiver : Denon x5200
Front Stage : L/R - Statements by Jim Holtz
Surround Speakers : Klipsch RF-82II x 4 / RP-280F x 2
Subwooferage : 6 UM18/4 HT18 Subwoofer Log
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post #23 of 81 Old 11-19-2015, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgtighe23 View Post
Well, I was just running 1 sub. I hooked up the other just now, so I'm running dual. I was hoping to find some difference between sub 1 and 2. I just now unboxed the 2nd XLR and made another speakOn cable for the 2nd sub. I'm having the same results/issues with both subs.

I was able to get 2 indicator lights to come on when I had the gain at 75% of max on the iNuke, and the receiver signal was at +10dB.

I have pulled apart and checked every wire that I know to check.

Bolded: Is there anyway to check the input level without a computer - just manually in the little screen of the iNuke? I currently don't have a laptop and I'm planning on getting one (and REW) after the first of the year. I would hate to have to wag the desktop, etc. upstairs.
I don't think you can check the input signal from the front panel unfortunately...

What type of source material were you playing to get the 2 lights to come on? What volume on the AVR?

I'm surprised you need to have the trim at +10db... something seems off.

Do you have any filters or PEQ turned on in the Inuke DSP?

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post #24 of 81 Old 11-19-2015, 09:47 AM
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This maybe a stupid question but did you remember to twist your speakon connector after plugging it into the back of the iNuke / speaker

Nice job on those subs BTW, I'm running dual Ultimax 18's myself

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post #25 of 81 Old 11-19-2015, 10:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingwiggi View Post
This maybe a stupid question but did you remember to twist your speakon connector after plugging it into the back of the iNuke / speaker

Nice job on those subs BTW, I'm running dual Ultimax 18's myself
Yes. Everything is clicked and locked into place.

------------------------------------------------
Receiver : Denon x5200
Front Stage : L/R - Statements by Jim Holtz
Surround Speakers : Klipsch RF-82II x 4 / RP-280F x 2
Subwooferage : 6 UM18/4 HT18 Subwoofer Log
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post #26 of 81 Old 11-19-2015, 10:28 AM
 
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What happens when you run the gain at full?
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post #27 of 81 Old 11-19-2015, 10:36 AM
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Add some gain in the crossover section on the inuke both channel A and B.
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post #28 of 81 Old 11-19-2015, 10:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
What happens when you run the gain at full?
full gain and +10dB on the receiver nets 2 indicator lights and the occasional 3rd on hard drops. Sorry (EDIT), those 2 indicator lights don't come on until I reach -25dB on the receiver. -40dB and I have zero indicator lights on from the iNuke at the above settings.

I have a Mac desktop only. Am I able to connect the iNuke to it? seems like a no go so far. brought it upstairs and connected it and nothing.

------------------------------------------------
Receiver : Denon x5200
Front Stage : L/R - Statements by Jim Holtz
Surround Speakers : Klipsch RF-82II x 4 / RP-280F x 2
Subwooferage : 6 UM18/4 HT18 Subwoofer Log

Last edited by bgtighe23; 11-19-2015 at 10:49 AM.
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post #29 of 81 Old 11-19-2015, 10:39 AM
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I do most of my Inuke tuning on the front of inuke I have yet to hook it to a computer. I had to add about +4 db gain on crossover section to get where I needed.
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post #30 of 81 Old 11-19-2015, 10:41 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgtighe23 View Post
full gain and +10dB on the receiver nets 2 indicator lights and the occasional 3rd on hard drops.

I have a Mac desktop only. Am I able to connect the iNuke to it? seems like a no go so far. brought it upstairs and connected it and nothing.
What master volume setting when you get the occasional 3rd light (and what do each of the lights mean?). I don't know about connecting your computer but perhaps you do need a cleanbox if your avr doesn't have enough output (can you measure the output voltage?).
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