The V.B.S.S. DIY subwoofer design thread - Page 18 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #511 of 1499 Old 07-21-2017, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by mikeTRON250LM View Post
I built a pair of down firing ones to replace my hsu vtf15h. It's absurd how much more output these things have...

I attached a random few pictures and the "speaker" in the first photo on the wall is NOT mine.
I am curious to know if you mitered the corners on that dark trim you are using to cover the seams?
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post #512 of 1499 Old 07-21-2017, 06:53 AM
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I am curious to know if you mitered the corners on that dark trim you are using to cover the seams?
Yep, just because I used plywood, otherwise I wouldn't have.

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post #513 of 1499 Old 07-21-2017, 07:50 AM
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post #514 of 1499 Old 07-21-2017, 07:55 AM
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Mitering them was a pain in the ass, because none of them were level and it meant we had to poly them ON the boxes but it all looks nice now.

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post #515 of 1499 Old 07-21-2017, 08:22 AM
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Mitering them was a pain in the ass, because none of them were level and it meant we had to poly them ON the boxes but it all looks nice now.

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post #516 of 1499 Old 07-21-2017, 01:05 PM
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Can these be used up to 250 - 300hz

I currently have a pair of BD-Design Oris 200 Horns with a Tang-band W8-1808 full range driver.

Technically, the Oris + TB combo is supposed to play down to 300hz (may be 250hz).

I need to build bins for this system to cover th 30hz- 300hz.

Would the VBSS be considered a viable option? This will only be a temporary rig so I don't want to spend a lot of money.

That being said, I don't want to go through all the woodwork and end up with something that does not perform well in the intended application.

Any thoughts?
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post #517 of 1499 Old 07-21-2017, 01:57 PM
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I don't see why not if you have the ability to manage the crossover well enough. The posted full range response of the woofer looks great up to 500hz.

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post #518 of 1499 Old 07-22-2017, 04:49 AM
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Hello I'm close to finishing my subs.... Is R-13 recycled denim/cotton insulation the only thing i can use inside the boxes because my local HomeDepot is out of stock until Aug 1 & I'm not trying to wait that long thanks.

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post #519 of 1499 Old 07-22-2017, 10:20 AM - Thread Starter
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You can use the regular pink fluffy fiberglass which works about the same it's just more itchy. You can also use polyfill if you can find a way to line the walls with it.
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post #520 of 1499 Old 07-22-2017, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Nexgen76 View Post
Hello I'm close to finishing my subs.... Is R-13 recycled denim/cotton insulation the only thing i can use inside the boxes because my local HomeDepot is out of stock until Aug 1 & I'm not trying to wait that long thanks.
You can use 1.5" foam mattress topper from Wal-Mart as well.

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post #521 of 1499 Old 07-22-2017, 10:33 AM
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You can use the regular pink fluffy fiberglass which works about the same it's just more itchy. You can also use polyfill if you can find a way to line the walls with it.
Thanks i found some actually in the store guess it's better to go inside the store vs looking online......So I'm lining the top & back of the box only ???? No sides walls ?




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You can use 1.5" foam mattress topper from Wal-Mart as well.

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Wish i knew this hour ago i found some R13....Thanks

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post #522 of 1499 Old 07-22-2017, 09:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Nexgen76 View Post
So I'm lining the top & back of the box only ???? No sides walls ?
Yeah, you start putting too much in there and you will loose output from the port.
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post #523 of 1499 Old 07-25-2017, 12:55 PM
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Hi guys,

How would changing the height from 31.5" to 25"-28" affect performance? I would like to build these into more waf friendly end tables. I plan on running these with the lowest tuning. Thanks for your help!
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post #524 of 1499 Old 07-25-2017, 01:00 PM
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Hi guys,

How would changing the height from 31.5" to 25"-28" affect performance? I would like to build these into more waf friendly end tables. I plan on running these with the lowest tuning. Thanks for your help!
You can change the size of any dimension as long as you keep the internal volume the same. I made mine down firing end tables and it worked out well.

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post #525 of 1499 Old 07-25-2017, 07:43 PM
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You can change the size of any dimension as long as you keep the internal volume the same. I made mine down firing end tables and it worked out well.

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Thanks for the reply. I like your build, your end tables really look good. What did they replace? How does it compare to your previous set up?

Do you think the response would be drastically different if I made it shorter? Or just less spl? I would add two of the modified end tables and one to size VBSS.
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post #526 of 1499 Old 07-25-2017, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeffrey16 View Post
Thanks for the reply. I like your build, your end tables really look good. What did they replace? How does it compare to your previous set up?

Do you think the response would be drastically different if I made it shorter? Or just less spl? I would add two of the modified end tables and one to size VBSS.
Your question is somewhat ambiguous, so I will follow up with a blanket statement. If you change the internal volume then yes it changes the design. If you just change the shape but maintain similar internal volumes then it doesn't matter much, aside from making sure you have enough room for the ports. If you want to change the design then I would suggest running simulations in WinISD to compare the different internal volumes and such. If you want something smaller a Marty cube would work as well. Personally I wanted a VBSS pair as it is cheaper and I didn't care that these weren't the absolute best under 20hz.

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post #527 of 1499 Old 07-25-2017, 07:59 PM
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Your question is somewhat ambiguous, so I will follow up with a blanket statement. If you change the internal volume then yes it changes the design. If you just change the shape but maintain similar internal volumes then it doesn't matter much, aside from making sure you have enough room for the ports. If you want to change the design then I would suggest running simulations in WinISD to compare the different internal volumes and such. If you want something smaller a Marty cube would work as well. Personally I wanted a VBSS pair as it is cheaper and I didn't care that these weren't the absolute best under 20hz.
Yeah, I'll probably just build them to size. Momma will get over it. I'm sure a few of the flex 12 would work great too, but when I can get the 18 for less...
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post #528 of 1499 Old 07-25-2017, 08:02 PM
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Yeah, I'll probably just build them to size. Momma will get over it. I'm sure a few of the flex 12 would work great too, but when I can get the 18 for less...
I built mine to spec, and added legs to make them about 24 or 25 inches tall, which was about the height of the all black HSU it replaces.

I can't imagine having a better bang for the buck than these things.

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post #529 of 1499 Old 07-25-2017, 10:28 PM
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Can someone help me to make sure i got my wiring right..... Box one with the single Neutrik four pole connector I'm using +1 & -1...... The second box with duel Neutrik four pole connector bottom coming from Box 1 I have +1 & -1 & Also the top Neutrik four pole connector i have that one +1 & -1 is this correct as it appear on the picture @mtg90
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post #530 of 1499 Old 07-26-2017, 03:52 PM
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Can someone help me to make sure i got my wiring right..... Box one with the single Neutrik four pole connector I'm using +1 & -1...... The second box with duel Neutrik four pole connector bottom coming from Box 1 I have +1 & -1 & Also the top Neutrik four pole connector i have that one +1 & -1 is this correct as it appear on the picture ?

That will be running them in parallel and give you a 4ohm load. I saw you have an Inuke 6000 so yes that will work. Set a limiter as that will be way over what they can take for power.
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post #531 of 1499 Old 07-26-2017, 06:42 PM
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That will be running them in parallel and give you a 4ohm load. I saw you have an Inuke 6000 so yes that will work. Set a limiter as that will be way over what they can take for power.
I actually purchase Inuke3k dsp last week.... So wiring stay the same ?

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post #532 of 1499 Old 07-26-2017, 07:00 PM
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We'll after multiple other projects to earn me some good points with the wife, I've just been out and purchased all the mdf needed for two of these subs.
Can't wait to get started!
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post #533 of 1499 Old 07-26-2017, 07:08 PM
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I actually purchase Inuke3k dsp last week.... So wiring stay the same ?

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That depends are you running them both off of one channel or bridged?

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post #534 of 1499 Old 07-26-2017, 07:12 PM
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That depends are you running them both off of one channel or bridged?
I'm trying to run two off each channel....... I have total of four subs.

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post #535 of 1499 Old 07-26-2017, 07:16 PM
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I'm trying to run two off each channel....... I have total of four subs.

That will work how you have it wired.
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post #536 of 1499 Old 07-28-2017, 09:46 AM
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Well the only holdup now is new Inuke3k dsp. For some reason the last one blew & it was brand new(Sweetwater replaced it no problem ). Making sure my wiring is correct which make me kinda nervous. Missing ports for my other two boxes which going to make total of four.

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post #537 of 1499 Old 07-28-2017, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Nexgen76 View Post
Well the only holdup now is new Inuke3k dsp. For some reason the last one blew & it was brand new(Sweetwater replaced it no problem ). Making sure my wiring is correct which make me kinda nervous. Missing ports for my other two boxes which going to make total of four.

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It blew? Do you have an ohm meter or multi meter? I wouldn't hook another amp up without checking to see what you actually have for a load at the speakon terminals. What if you have a bad sub and it is shorted. Probably not but I wouldn't risk it. I don't think they would send you another amp no questions asked.

Even cheap one will work https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-A.../dp/B000EVYGZA there might be a better one cheaper that is just one that came up and is rated good and I have it and it works ok for what I need.

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post #538 of 1499 Old 07-29-2017, 08:40 PM
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I don't see why not if you have the ability to manage the crossover well enough. The posted full range response of the woofer looks great up to 500hz.

oh man this graph put some bad thoughts in my head. with that frequency response im thinking this sub paired with a 500hz lecleach horn would make one SICK main speaker.

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post #539 of 1499 Old 08-01-2017, 09:17 PM
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Can someone, anyone kindly measure the response in REW up to about 2khz?

Im interested in knowing if this can be used as the woofer for a fullrange speaker crossing over to a horn around 1k to 2khz.


THANKS !!!!!

THANK YOU!!! for your selfless contribution to the audio world
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Thomas Drugeon for Rephase
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post #540 of 1499 Old 08-01-2017, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 1201 View Post
Can someone, anyone kindly measure the response in REW up to about 2khz?

Im interested in knowing if this can be used as the woofer for a fullrange speaker crossing over to a horn around 1k to 2khz.


THANKS !!!!!
I am no speaker designer but I think you might want to Google how to figure out when a speaker begins to beam. When beaming begins is based on the size of the driver. Also the center to center distance of the tweeter and the woofer play a role in crossover point selection too.
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