Originally Posted by thesmileman
So I'm a total noob on speaker building but am interested in building this sub and looking for some clarity and assistance. I do occasionally build stuff but i'm no master woodworker at all. I have tried to do as much research before posting but I feel like I could really use some help. Sorry for all the questions. I will try to write them up when I'm done with photos to help people like myself who feel lost completely among all the seeming experts helping other even more experienced experts.
So ALL the items I need to build the box are
a. 1x of the woofer here https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...oofer--295-036
b. 2x of the flared ports here: https://www.parts-express.com/precis...e-kit--268-352
c. inuke 1000DSP
c. Terminals on the back to connect an amp to it. Not sure what to use as this is my first non-plug and play sub. Could someone post me a link/links to a product that would work well?
e. some filler/dampining material (whats best for this amp?)
f. 4x8' 3/4" sheet of MDF or plywood (does it matter which?). Plus a 2x4' sheet of 1/2" MDF/Plywood.
g. Wood glue
h. Speaker wire (what gauge?)
1. I see mention of double baffle vs single baffle, Does it matter? Why one versus the other?
2. Does the port tube go all the way through the cabinet or just to the inside back of the sub (sorry this feels like a dub question but no one shows the back of the speaker or the inside when everything is there except the driver).
3. What screws to use for the port tube and the driver?
4. I see lots of info about tuning the sub but I don't understand this. I have watched some videos about it but they seem like if your designing the sub not making a prebuilt design.
5. If I'm using this for home theater what do I want 15, 20, 31hz? I always assumed lower would be better but I don't really know when to choose one or the other. What is meant by "plugged"
6. I know you get smother distribution of bass with multiple of these but this going to blow my socks off after only having one 12" Klipsch right? I know people might want more but for most people I don't need more than 1 or maybe 2 right? I guess I'm just making sure as this is an 18" sub to me that seems insane.
1. Plunge router. I don't have one but need to get one as I have needed it in the past.
2. I have a chop saw and jig saw. I know a table saw would probably be preferred but I don't have one.
2. Screw driver
c: Neutrik speakON connector to connect to the iNuke. Use the 4 pole versions to match the iNuke's speaker connections. For mine I put the speakOn panel mount on the back of the cabinet, then I made a cable with a 90 degree speakOn connector on one end (to allow the cabinet to be closer to the wall) and a regular speakOn connector for the end of the cable that goes to the iNuke. These connections twist and lock in place and can be bought at places like parts-express.
d: filler/damping - mtg90 (speaker designer) used denim insulation that can be bought at some big box stores (Home Depot, Lowes, Menards) or you can use mattress topper from somewhere like Walmart. If you use the mattress topper make sure it is open cell, don't get fancy memory foam.
f: MDF or plywood, both will work. Everyone has their own preference, I like MDF just because it is always exactly the same and the nice finish of birch plywood doesn't matter when the cabinet is flat black.
h: wire: I think I used 14 AWG that I had from a previous build
Other questions section:
1. Double baffle looks cleaner since the woofer is flat against the front of the cabinet, but single baffle is ok. I built mine single.
2. Port extends to within a few inches of the back of the cabinet. Don't cut a hole in the back!
3. Coarse grained screws work best for MDF, there are specialty MDF screws that you might be able to get in stock at your big box store.
4. There are three tuning choices (see the first post in the thread), if you are unsure and it is your first build 20Hz is a good first choice.
5. Plugged means putting something in the port that blocks the air which means it is no longer a port (it just acts like part of the box). You can use a balled up piece of fabric that fits tight (like a T-shirt), or I used some window insulation that is a thick spongy insulation (not fiberglass) to block one of my ports.
6. One will be awesome... How far you go after building the first is anyone's guess. Plenty stop at 1, it will cause vibrations all over the house, but plenty build 8 (or more)!
1. Plunge router. Not necessarily needed. I use a jig saw and just cut on a circle. It doesn't come out perfect, but after a little sanding to smooth the circle it is fine. If you want to try the jig saw get a scrap piece of wood and see how smooth your circle cuts are!
2. Unless you are thinking about a table saw with rollers I would just get a nice circular saw with a long straightedge (I use a 6ft aluminum level that I clamp to the MDF). You could also get something like a BORA WTX Clamping Edge for the straight edge (Home Depot has BORA, Lowes/Menards has similar but different brands). Pushing a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" MDF through a table saw is not easy. Your local Home Depot will sometimes make cuts on their panel saw, but be VERY careful to double check their measurements.
4. Clamps: When you glue the pieces together you will need to clamp for at least 15-30 minutes (depending on your wood glue). Minimum is two clamps.