The V.B.S.S. DIY subwoofer design thread - Page 31 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #901 of 1630 Old 06-10-2018, 08:17 AM
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Does this one load?
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post #902 of 1630 Old 06-10-2018, 08:22 AM
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Not on my end.

Automation: Alexa- Harmony Hub- Wemo Dimmer Switch- Wemo Smart Plug BatCave: SY Triple Black
Video Image: JVC RS500- Sony UBP-800X- Chromecast- 125" wide 16x9 white over black spandex screen
Audio: 5.2.4 Marantz SR7011- (LCR) Stage Right 15" PA- (Surrounds) (4) BIC FH6-LCR- (Atmos) (4) Dayton Audio B652 6-1/2-Inch- (Subs)2 23ishcuft ported HS24s 14-15Hz tune- 4 PA460 in ported cabs 40Hz tune- FP20000Q- 2 Sanway FP10000Q- Crown XLS1500- . To be continued...
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post #903 of 1630 Old 06-10-2018, 08:40 AM
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It's coming through for me... sometimes they dont, but this one is.

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Equipment: Yamaha 3050, Oppo 103d, DIYSG HT12s (L,C,R), PSA mt 110s (SR,SL), 2 VBSS, Submaximus, 4 driver BOSS build, umik-1, Epson 3700
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post #904 of 1630 Old 06-10-2018, 08:45 AM
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Maybe it's just me, but I can't pull the pics up from either my phone or PC

Automation: Alexa- Harmony Hub- Wemo Dimmer Switch- Wemo Smart Plug BatCave: SY Triple Black
Video Image: JVC RS500- Sony UBP-800X- Chromecast- 125" wide 16x9 white over black spandex screen
Audio: 5.2.4 Marantz SR7011- (LCR) Stage Right 15" PA- (Surrounds) (4) BIC FH6-LCR- (Atmos) (4) Dayton Audio B652 6-1/2-Inch- (Subs)2 23ishcuft ported HS24s 14-15Hz tune- 4 PA460 in ported cabs 40Hz tune- FP20000Q- 2 Sanway FP10000Q- Crown XLS1500- . To be continued...
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post #905 of 1630 Old 06-10-2018, 11:21 AM
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So this weekend I built a pair the these V.B.S.S.s. Still waiting till tomorrow for the insulation to be delivered and then I'll hook everything up.

Building was the easy part for me and now I'm starting to get nervous about getting everything setup correctly. I have an inuke 6k dsp. I know the 6k is over kill for two pa460s, but I wanted to have options for other subs down the road. I have read so many inuke/sub set up threads and I think I have just becomes over whelmed. Is there a step by step setup process somewhere that can guide me through things like setting a limiter, explaining what the "hold" and "release" features are and how to set them?

Also, I do not own a computer and my phone won't let me down load the zip files on page 1 of the thread (V.B.S.S. iNuke DSP settings.zip). Can I download an app so my phone can open that file or do I ha e to have a computer to see it?

Last edited by OF1920; 06-10-2018 at 11:38 AM.
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post #906 of 1630 Old 06-14-2018, 02:07 PM
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narrowest baffle possible with this design?

What is the narrowest baffle possible for this design? I would like to lay this on its side under my projector screen but at 23.5" wide would mean sacrificing some screen space. Could this be built 20" wide? would the 18" driver have enough room? This will be my first build so not sure what is best practice when it comes to sizing the baffle for the driver. I assume i can just adjust the rest of the box to ensure internal volume stays the same.
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post #907 of 1630 Old 06-14-2018, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by kevinthenewb View Post
What is the narrowest baffle possible for this design? I would like to lay this on its side under my projector screen but at 23.5" wide would mean sacrificing some screen space. Could this be built 20" wide? would the 18" driver have enough room? This will be my first build so not sure what is best practice when it comes to sizing the baffle for the driver. I assume i can just adjust the rest of the box to ensure internal volume stays the same.
I just built a sub with a 20.5 width for a 18inch driver. I don't think I would go with 20 width, won't leave very much room on the edge. On my double baffle edge to the outside of box is 1 inch.
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post #908 of 1630 Old 06-14-2018, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by kevinthenewb View Post
What is the narrowest baffle possible for this design? I would like to lay this on its side under my projector screen but at 23.5" wide would mean sacrificing some screen space. Could this be built 20" wide? would the 18" driver have enough room? This will be my first build so not sure what is best practice when it comes to sizing the baffle for the driver. I assume i can just adjust the rest of the box to ensure internal volume stays the same.
I just built an enclosure that LTD02 helped me with for my truck. Front width is 19.25”. Plenty of room for the PA460👍
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post #909 of 1630 Old 06-15-2018, 08:46 PM
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Awesome thank you! What were the final dims of your box? Happy with the output?
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post #910 of 1630 Old 06-16-2018, 01:36 AM
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https://imgur.com/a/ugVqvxU
See if this works. Not sure how to post the actual images.

Yes, I’m quite pleased with the output in my Crew Cab pickup 😁

Here’s the thread I started about my build.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...s-variant.html

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post #911 of 1630 Old 06-20-2018, 11:11 AM
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flatpacks?

anyone building flatpacks for these? Thanks!
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post #912 of 1630 Old 06-20-2018, 01:33 PM
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anyone building flatpacks for these? Thanks!
Where are you located ? There are several people on this forum who are capable of making a flat pack for you. However, I’d think shipping, if you’re not close to them, would be killer.
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post #913 of 1630 Old 06-20-2018, 01:43 PM
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Where are you located ? There are several people on this forum who are capable of making a flat pack for you. However, I’d think shipping, if you’re not close to them, would be killer.
Waterford, CT 06385

Yeah if it is cost prohibitive then I can try using a skill saw + chop saw to do it myself. Otherwise I only see the 4cuft sealed flatpacks on DIYSG, but guessing the PA460s won't sound very good sealed? Thanks!
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post #914 of 1630 Old 06-20-2018, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by tiger8mush View Post
Waterford, CT 06385

Yeah if it is cost prohibitive then I can try using a skill saw + chop saw to do it myself. Otherwise I only see the 4cuft sealed flatpacks on DIYSG, but guessing the PA460s won't sound very good sealed? Thanks!
I think you’re right about the sealed cab for the PA460. Just ......NO !
You might want to start a thread asking for someone in your area to cut panels for you.
Or, you could use a circular saw with an edge guide to make sure the cuts are straight.
Or, you could figure out exact dimensions for each board you need cut, and get the store to cut them all. I think Lowe’s around here will do 2 or 3 simple cuts for free, then it’s like $1 per cut after that.
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post #915 of 1630 Old 06-22-2018, 09:10 PM
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About to begin my VBSS build and have a question regarding making/cutting double baffle.

So, what should be the diameter size of the cuts on both the inside baffle and the larger external box cut? I see on the specs that the driver is 460mm but then I am not sure exactly what size the cutouts should be.
Same question regarding the ports and the port cutout sizes on double baffle.

Thanks
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post #916 of 1630 Old 06-22-2018, 09:38 PM
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post #917 of 1630 Old 06-22-2018, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by WickedDogs View Post
About to begin my VBSS build and have a question regarding making/cutting double baffle.

So, what should be the diameter size of the cuts on both the inside baffle and the larger external box cut? I see on the specs that the driver is 460mm but then I am not sure exactly what size the cutouts should be.
Same question regarding the ports and the port cutout sizes on double baffle.

Thanks
The spec for the inner baffle is 16.73", but i started at more like 16.625 to make sure i didnt take too much off.

I didn't do the outer baffle, but it looks like the spec for that diameter is 18.11...

As far as the ports go, i believe you can trace the od of the inner flare to use as your cutout... it should say on the instructions that come with them. You'll need to also use a larger diameter "indentation" if you want the ports flush. You can trace the front port itself onto the front outer baffle for that.

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Equipment: Yamaha 3050, Oppo 103d, DIYSG HT12s (L,C,R), PSA mt 110s (SR,SL), 2 VBSS, Submaximus, 4 driver BOSS build, umik-1, Epson 3700
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post #918 of 1630 Old 06-23-2018, 01:25 PM
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I just wanted to share a few pictures from my TV stand build using 2 standard VBSS enclosures, just in case anyone wants/needs to integrate these in a non-dedicated living space.

It started as 3 different units--2 side-firing VBSS boxes and 1 shelf.



Next, I trimmed it out to give make it look more like a regular tv stand.





Then, I added the top and applied the finish coats.









Here is the (mostly) finished product. I still need to add grilles the each side to completely hide the drivers and ports to give it a total stealth appearance.







Completing this build allowed me to discretely hide 2 18" subs in a WAF-approved stand. It sounds great and I'm very appreciative for this thread for providing a roadmap!


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How many sheets MDF? 3?
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post #919 of 1630 Old 06-23-2018, 01:38 PM
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Yes. I believe it would have been 3 sheets—1 for each VBSS and then some more for shelves and trim. They’re still going strong!


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post #920 of 1630 Old 06-23-2018, 02:08 PM
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Yeah i love them- my wife wants me to make one but my skills suck so it'll look like it fell off a truck- Now scouring this forum see how i wire Two of these into one Inuke 1000dsp
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post #921 of 1630 Old 06-23-2018, 03:08 PM
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Incredible job! Really great.


Can I ask what the top is? Is that one piece or did you need to fabricate it?
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post #922 of 1630 Old 06-23-2018, 03:47 PM
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Incredible job! Really great.


Can I ask what the top is? Is that one piece or did you need to fabricate it?


Thanks! The top was one piece that I cut to size from edge-glued pine from Menards. Looking back on the project I would have done a couple more things to make it resemble actual furniture (like add a board at the bottom to separate the faux doors from the floor), but it does the trick. These boxes are so affordable that I have thought of building some for audio for a few different places in and around the house—home gym, shop, covered porch, and garage. Amplification gets a little pricey and is the limiting factor without some kind of switch, which I suppose I could do.


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post #923 of 1630 Old 06-23-2018, 04:09 PM
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@DaveyK
😳😳
Really nice work !! You have a special skill set- not only in build quality but in imagination and visualizing how you want it to look before you start. Awesome job 👍
Only one problem I see. Move those speakers away to give the 460s room to do their thing !!😁😁

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post #924 of 1630 Old 06-23-2018, 10:56 PM
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**lots of sweet pics of sweet build**
This is the only build that has ever made my GF say, "oh! Can you make that?" Best use of vbss.
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post #925 of 1630 Old 06-23-2018, 11:16 PM
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Yeah i love them- my wife wants me to make one but my skills suck so it'll look like it fell off a truck- Now scouring this forum see how i wire Two of these into one Inuke 1000dsp
Wire them in parallel for a 4 ohm load at the inuke. You can use 2 pole speakon's for the subs and a 4 pole at the amp for bridged mode. You will also need to change the amp setting to bridged vs the default inuke3000dsp settings along with a limiter at 71.5 volts. I am using this exact set up and I love my V.B.S.S's the more I use them. In this case, each sub will get about 320 watts which is quite ample for these efficient drivers.
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post #926 of 1630 Old 06-24-2018, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by tk123 View Post
@DaveyK



Really nice work !! You have a special skill set- not only in build quality but in imagination and visualizing how you want it to look before you start. Awesome job

Only one problem I see. Move those speakers away to give the 460s room to do their thing !!


Thank you for the kind words. I think with some planning and patience, people with basic woodworking and finishing skills can take any of the common sub builds and make them more living room-friendly. While it looks nice, I am more impressed with how it sounds. Even with imperfect placement, the subs do an admirable job of filling my large, open space with great sound. Kudos to those paving the way.

Thanks for pointing out the speaker placement. That picture was taken in a small rental house while my new house was being built. They now have more room to breathe.


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post #927 of 1630 Old 06-24-2018, 09:47 AM
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This is the only build that has ever made my GF say, "oh! Can you make that?" Best use of vbss.


Haha! I appreciate that. My intention of this build was to disguise the subs as furniture, which I pulled off reasonably well. This approach has some inherent limitations (mostly placement), and I believe another good approach is to spend the time and money veneering the enclosures to dress them up a bit. I might have to try that in a future build.


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post #928 of 1630 Old 06-24-2018, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BryceDH View Post
The spec for the inner baffle is 16.73", but i started at more like 16.625 to make sure i didnt take too much off.

I didn't do the outer baffle, but it looks like the spec for that diameter is 18.11...

As far as the ports go, i believe you can trace the od of the inner flare to use as your cutout... it should say on the instructions that come with them. You'll need to also use a larger diameter "indentation" if you want the ports flush. You can trace the front port itself onto the front outer baffle for that.

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Thanks for the information, the build is going along slowly but surely.

One more question, I want make sure the port cutout should be 6-1/4" as the website or 4" (on that topic, why is the product called 4" port if the size seems to be larger?)? Cheers
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post #929 of 1630 Old 06-25-2018, 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by WickedDogs View Post
Thanks for the information, the build is going along slowly but surely.

One more question, I want make sure the port cutout should be 6-1/4" as the website or 4" (on that topic, why is the product called 4" port if the size seems to be larger?)? Cheers
Do you have the ports already? If you take them out of the box, it should be easier to visualize. I sketched a rough pic to explain... yes the port is 4", but you have to realize that the flared ends need to have a larger diameter to be able to attach to your baffle.

The flare piece has a flat profile where it should sit flat with whatever piece you attach it to. That is the 6 1/4" cut... does the pic help at all?

**edit: also, i used electric tape to assemble the ports so that i can switch to any of the tuning frequencies i want to down the road. It seems to work plenty well.

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Equipment: Yamaha 3050, Oppo 103d, DIYSG HT12s (L,C,R), PSA mt 110s (SR,SL), 2 VBSS, Submaximus, 4 driver BOSS build, umik-1, Epson 3700

Last edited by BryceDH; 06-25-2018 at 05:03 AM.
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post #930 of 1630 Old 06-25-2018, 09:28 AM
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Do you have the ports already? If you take them out of the box, it should be easier to visualize. I sketched a rough pic to explain... yes the port is 4", but you have to realize that the flared ends need to have a larger diameter to be able to attach to your baffle.

The flare piece has a flat profile where it should sit flat with whatever piece you attach it to. That is the 6 1/4" cut... does the pic help at all?

**edit: also, i used electric tape to assemble the ports so that i can switch to any of the tuning frequencies i want to down the road. It seems to work plenty well.

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Wow, thanks for your time and help. I do not have the ports with me yet, which is why I was confused. Looking forward to finishing up soon!
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